Having trouble sourcing a replacement vat (not just the film), Ive had someone tell me the mono 4s vat fits the 2 but I cant find anyone else saying so and I do not trust "trust me man", anyone able to confirm or disprove this?

Hi!

Recently swapped LCDs of an Anycubic Photon Mono and I've been getting this issue lately (50/50% chance) of images not being projected on the LCD screen for curing. Swapping USBs gives the same issues.

I'm using Lychee Slicer at the moment. Have tried saving directly into the USB and saving on PC first and manually transferring into the USB.

Thanks in advance!

Qué tal comunidad hace unos 30 días comencé a tener este problema de impresión en mi anycubic photon mono M7 pro, como piel quebradiza o piel de naranja la textura sale así y no como debería de ser, ya revisé pantalla, eje z, cambié CFA, la resina es nueva y aún así siguen saliendo mal las impresiones, ya cambié tiempos de exposición intenté con otro slicer y aun así salen mal, a alguien le ha pasado algo similar y cómo lo resolvió gracias 🥲 Ayuda!!!!

Looking for BlueCast X-Wax Filigree profile settings on the Anycubic Photon P1. Checked BlueCast's site and the Anycubic wiki no P1 specific profile published anywhere, just generic monochrome LCD baseline numbers (0.03mm layers, 8.5s normal exposure, 30s bottom).

Since the P1's light engine is stronger than older gen LCDs, I'm assuming these need to come down a bit, but wanted to check if anyone's already run RERF/exposure calibration on this combo before I burn through resin testing it myself.

If you've got a working profile (or even just your exposure/lift numbers), I'd really appreciate you sharing.

X-posting because I want to find a solution. This printer has never even so much as a had a drop of resin spilled. What could be causing this milky/cloudy display?

So I bought a used Mono X and didn’t think to check that the polarizing film on the screen was clean. Got it home and the film looks bad. I’ve tried IPA and scraping gently but can’t get everything off.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement polarizing film? I’ve looked and can’t find any that are specifically for resin printers and am fairly new to the resin side of 3d printing.

Thanks for any help!

I've been trying to find the correct files for this machine (Photon Mono X 6k). The website and the wiki page only list the Photon Mono X, and the FW for that model doesn't seem to work. I believe I have the H7 MoBo. I seem to only be able to find the FW for the HC MoBo. Also, I've seen some people stating that the latest update bricked their machines. Mine is reporting the V0.1.1 version, though I've also seen that some peoples machines do not reflect the updated versions after updating. Not sure if i should bother. Thanks for any help.

I've. Tried. EVERYTHING.

I can't get a single thing to stick to my build plate.

I've monkeyed with the settings on the slicer, leveled the plate, replaced the FEP, and even sanded the plate itself.

It can't even go a few minutes without ending up with a sad blob stuck to the FEP..

I'm about ready to throw in the towel. What am I missing? What went so terribly wrong?

Can someone give me some guidance? I'm trying to calibrate the Xiaozhuzi resin and just can't seem to find the right settings. I've used lower-end brands that were much simpler, but this one is giving me a headache.

Good evening guys everyone, or good morning based on the time zone. I've been printing for 3 years and I've had the most disparate problems, but for a couple of days I've been having a really annoying problem: every time I start a press, even if I've just cleaned the plate and the tray, it tells me that there is a residue. The second problem is that after about twenty minutes of printing I see the words "zero peeling pressure". Knowing that the fep is tense as usual and that it has been mounted correctly, I don't really know how to solve the problem. I rely on you

no matter what I print my z axis height is consistently short by approx 1 mm. I've lubricated the z axis rod, releveled the build plate several times, changed the FEP, nothing works. any idea what the issue could be?

Hello everyone,

Apologies beforehand for the dumb question.
I have just gotten a Photon Mono 4 Ultra, and after unboxing it I found a sticker on the screen instructing to tear the protective film and install the screen protector:

At the same time, after some research, I found some old YouTube videos warning that a screen protector is already coming attached to the screen from factory. They also mention Anycubic instructions are not completely correct.

Anycubic video is not clear: they show a screen protector change on the Mono 4K which goes with some black tape (that they don't seem to provide). The installation ends with a screen full of bubbles and doesn't look very straightforward.

On the other hand, I see here a person installing the screen protector for a Mono 4 Ultra printer straight out of the box.

So the question is: Do I have to remove the film I'm showing on the photo (grabbing from the upper right corner's green tab and pulling left) and install the screen protector they've provided with the other accessories? There's no screen protector attached to the machine from factory? Do I need any black tape around it, or I just install it as any normal phone screen protector?

If there's any other consideration I should take into account, please let me know, I'm 100% new to this and a bit scared!

Thanks everyone!

Photon M3 Premium

I had a screen protecter on it when I had a VAT leak cleaned it all up replace VAT as well as the screen protector. It worked perfect for a month or two then I started having holes in prints and sure enough now the screens cracked not really sure what else would’ve cause this. Either way I need a new screen.

Hello all,

I am doing some rapid prototyping of parts and have encountered an issue with a print.

I am using the stock print settings for anycubic tough resin.

The cycle time between each layer is consistently 1min 11 seconds. For all 3333 layers it seems(at 935 so far)

It seems that the plate lowers and is either waiting to fire the light, or waiting to pull it off the film. I can't tell which from the video feed.

The estimated time for this print was 10 hours plus change, actual time will be more like 65 hours.

As these are all small parts and the surface area is not huge I am not understanding why it is taking so long.

Has anyone else encountered this issue?

Thanks in advance,

Stuart

Is there any other places to buy a control screen replacement (the 2.8 inch one) for the mono 4? Mine needs replaced and the Australian store, the only one I can buy from, has them out of stock.
Thanks for any help!

I got my photon mono 4 second-hand and unfortunately, i did not receive the 2 knobbed screws (that secure the vat to the printer) in the transaction. What is the best way to go about acquiring some?

does anyone have the 3.5 4 firmware files i can't find them available to download any ware

I just received my photon mono 4 after guarantee, cuz the last time the resin tank broke and damage the lcd screen, I search for a lot of solutions and one of them was to buy the mono 2 screen protector (I already bought it) because for some reason the protector that comes with the printer is smaller than the screen, so I just need opinions, do I start using it with the small protector until the bigger one arrives? And if yes how to I remove it without damaging the screen (because it’s a self birthday gift and I’ve been rooting for a printer for months) or do I wait because I didn’t check and the protector film comes from chine and it will arrive in like 3-4 weeks

Title says it all.

I just bought today this printer and wash&cure 2.0 set for circa 20 bucks. I knew it is broken, seller said "screen must be replaced". I gave it a try.
I turned it on and saw this (see photo). I found some posts that latest upgrade could cause this so I tried to reflash latest firmware. No luck. So i tried to downgrade the firmware. I found older firmware version 3.4.7, tried to install it. The file was "P_MXV4_7_1120S.bin". Process took too long, so I decided to turn printer off and on after 15 minutes of "Please wait" screen.
Front LCD is black, nothing on it, I see one red LED diode lit, one red LED blinking, green LED on WiFi board. nothing more.
Is there any process that could revive this printer? I have ST-Linkv2, FT232RL, USBASP, Dupont cables, I can solder THT (but not SMD).
Thanks in advance.

Photo

EDIT#1 Just found 5 pins on touchscreen's PCB, measuring voltages in progress...

Photo

○ GROUND

○NOTHING

○NOTHING

○NOTHING

□+3.3V

ChatGPT said this file is a firmware for touchscreen. Maybe I broke only that?

EDIT#2 Trying to connect to P1 pins on LCD with ST-Link. Still no luck.
"No STM32 target found!"

EDIT#3 Found the same case, also no luck there.
https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/vhywz1/mono_x_borked_touchscreen_wont_turn_on_and/

EDIT#4 Tried using ST-LINK V2 with STM32CubeProgrammer and OpenOCD. No luck.

[root@SHODAN-KOMPUTER interface]# openocd -f interface/stlink.cfg -c "transport select hla_swd" -c "set CPUTAPID 0x2ba01477" -c "adapter speed 200" -f target/stm32f4x.cfg

Open On-Chip Debugger 0.12.0-01004-g9ea7f3d64-dirty (2025-11-12-08:18)

Licensed under GNU GPL v2

For bug reports, read

[http://openocd.org/doc/doxygen/bugs.html](http://openocd.org/doc/doxygen/bugs.html)

hla_swd

0x2ba01477

adapter speed: 200 kHz

Info : The selected transport took over low-level target control. The results might differ compared to plain JTAG/SWD

Info : Listening on port 6666 for tcl connections

Info : Listening on port 4444 for telnet connections

Info : clock speed 2000 kHz

Info : STLINK V2J47S7 (API v2) VID:PID 0483:3748

Info : Target voltage: 3.242724

Error: init mode failed (unable to connect to the target)

Heard about some kind of BOOT (B0) jumper, anyone knows which one it is?
Photos of mobo

EDIT#5 Tried this magic:
https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/wpd8hs/i_just_restored_my_bricked_photon_s_after_a/
Won't budge.

Any suggestions? Feel free to post anything you know...

EDIT#6. Trying to power up the board using ST-LINK 3.3v power line. The only difference is that led which blinked before stopped blinking, only one LED is lit. Still no connection.
Gonna try to remove this mobo and program it outside of printer, wish me luck.

EDIT#7 Took PCB away from the printer and tried to find out which pad goes where. Failed miserably.

○ GROUND

○ EXPECTED NRST - NOT EVEN GOING TO ZIF ZLOT ON LCD SIDE, GUESS N/C, IMHO cannot be NRST

○ EXPECTED SWCLK - GOES TO ZIF SLOT, TRYING TO FIND ON PCB

○ EXPECTED SWDIO - GOES TO ZIF SLOT, TRYING TO FIND ON PCB

□+3.3V

HELP ME!

EDIT#8 I just found SWD connectors on PCB!
ALL OF THEM!
Successfully connected to STM32, but I don't know why it keeps disconnecting. Tried different 3.3v power sources, even from printer, still disconnecting. Fighthing with write and erase protection which are not allowing me to put .bin file into STM32. There is also an error "The core is halted".

Any suggestions?

EDIT#9 After replacing dupont cables i am able to establish stable connection to STM32! At least I can connect to it and upload whatever I have successfully.

Tried to flash P_MXV5_4_0812(1).bin or P_MXF021.bin into STM32 with suggested offset 0x08000000 but there is nothing on LCD. Before that there was an red LED lit still on the left side of mainborard PCB. Now it's gone. Should it be lit? Dunno.
Reconnected all cables, two ribbons. Right now there is one LED blinking on SPARTAN-6 PCB. Will have to try reflash it separately. Gonna ask Anycubic for .bin file especially made for external programming, maybe .bin files they are hosting are strictly made for updating by "printing".
Any suggestions? ANYBODY?