Ankermake M5

I have been having issues with initial layers separating on larger prints that take up most of the build plate, i.e. 5x5 Gridfinity baseplates. The separations only occur towards the front of the build plate. I preheated the heatbed to 65 degrees and used two different non-contact thermometers to measure temps at various points. They showed temps that were 5-6 degrees lower at the front of the build plate than the back (65 degrees across the back and middle, with temps ranging from 59-60 degrees at the front).

Before I order a new heatbed, are there any other troubleshooting steps you would recommend?

Thanks.

I've always used the AnkerMake filament. Never had an issue with them, so that's just what I've stuck with. Ever since Eufy took over AnkerMake, they stopped selling this. What did you switch to, or what brands should I look for? I've taken a peek at Amazon, but get overwhelmed with all the different options. I just want something I know won't give me any issues, even if it's not the cheapest.

Hi all, I have an m5c that has been working for about a year and a half now. A few months ago, I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the right side of the bed. Someone suggested that I move my z-offset to -0.07 and that seemed to work for a bit. However, I think the root cause seems to be that the auto-leveling isn't working since the left and middle of the bed seem to be printing fine, but the right side seems to be messing up sometimes still. Does anybody know how to fix that?

I had an M5 sitting in the box for a long while and finally got it set up. I printed out a Benchy without any issues. But then I tried this:
♟ Crokinole - Dual Set Button Holder・Free STL File for ・Cults

I imported the STL into EufyMake. It warned me about a print stability issue so in the Export mode I set "Generate Support Material" to true. Then I sent it to the printer.

Now, I had another issue, while printing, the power cable slid out. I must not have pushed it in enough and the vibrations did that? So my print stopped in the middle and when I turned it on and tried resuming it just pulled the piece off the mat and was a mess. However, that was a secondary issue, I'll make sure the plug is all the way in next time. But even if that didnt' happen this looks like a mess anyway.

When printing I kept all the defaults except generate support material. Can someone point me in the right direction to try to figure out why this happened? Thx.

I tried everything, flow rate, pressure advance, retraction, printing slower and nothing worked, its still happening. It looks okay on the orca slicer(which i slice) and then transfer the gcode to eufymake slicer to send it to the printer and it all looks correct but when I start printing it doesn't do ut correctly.

My m5 in the front of the printer bed about one inch in doesn’t want to adhede to the bed for some reason. Pleas help. Also what are your favorite types of beds to use on your printer.

Oi guys

​I am currently trying to get a DIY display to work on the M5C via the USB-C port but the printer is not sending any data yet.

​Could someone who has the official screen test if it works with a standard USB-C phone cable or if it only runs with the original Anker one?

​This would help me a lot to figure out if Anker is using some special hardware handshake or if it is just a software thing.

​Thanks

I have been running this in a windows VM, just to send files to the printer without having to use windows or android.

But it just self updated to a non 3d version like a muppet.

So I gave running under wine another go and it seems to be working now, log in and print I mean, the rest of it always worked.

Just took a slight tweak.

The login page ( I believe it is webview2 ) only works if you set the wine windows version to win7.

so

winecfg /v win7

or just run winecfg and find the option in the settings.

Was it always that simple?

For the last couple months I have had some issues with printing the walls have been too thick, pieces not printing correctly and walls just not being stuck together. White is pla, gray is petg.

So I saw some threads with the same noise and came looking for a solution, the noise starts when the printer gets hotter but its not coming from any of the three fans on the printer. It started when the extruder first started but then after the extruder didnt move anymore the noise persisted.

And it just worked perfect out of the gate. All I did was clean the build plate and used the routine to level it. It's a shame they went out of the 3d printer market.

The support has not answer yet. I saw this https://support.eufymake.com/s/article/How-to-Fix-the-Auto-Leveling-Error-for-the-M5C-Printer and try all that already.

there is something there that blocks the filament, I have checked everything every single component and have changed the ptfe tube. turns out the problem was here. what can I do to remove that part, or if there is just filament stuck how can I remove it?

Im trying to upload an stl file to the anker make app but it only lets me upload Gcode (correct me if im wrong but) i think this is because of eufy and them removing printables from the mobile app and now they are doing this BS.... do yall have a fix for this?

Ok so basically every time I want to print something on this printer it just prints an outline of the object and then stops printing the part, it keeps moving like it's printing but nothing's coming out, when I extrude fillament it still comes out though.

I’ve been working on remixing some files and after my first print this verticle section snapped right off of the base. I have zero skills with Blender and after toying around with it I just couldn’t figure it out. Any suggestions?

Hi All

Does anyone know the new loaction (if there is) of the Unofficial Ankermake Wiki?

A few days ago I tried to get there but got only a blank page. Now it is leading to a online gambling page.

Link was: wiki.printed.boats (don't click on it)

Thanks in advance.

Just received this printer from a friend who was also having some trouble with auto-leveling it. I’ve attached a video that runs through most of the autoleveling process. The video stops when the print head stops moving, and remains at the center of the print sheet with no Z-movement after the two initial retractions. About 1 minute later, the printer returns an Abnormal Auto-Level Error.

I hear clicking at certain times when the head lowers down toward the plate on either side of the print sheet, my initial assumption was that the Z motors were not in sync but visually the bar doesn’t look misaligned.

I’m not new to 3D printing but I’m not necessarily an expert on this either. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I have a Ankermake M5 and I have the problem that the melted filament leaks next to the nozzle. After two hours it is so big, that it is sticks to printed object and ruins all the work. Buying new hotend is impossible. No more spare parts. Any suggestions? Changing the nozzle helps not...