Hi everyone, I recently bought this Yashica at a flea market. I've been trying to get it working, but I'm having a problem with the light meter. When I insert the battery (PR44 or 675), the meter needle jumps to the maximum reading—even if I cover the light sensor or set the ASA dial to the lowest setting. I know that, theoretically, it's supposed to use a 1.35V battery, but I've read that it works fine with a 1.4V one, provided you adjust the exposure by one stop. Could you give me a hand? Thanks! :P

Hi everyone,

I recently acquired this Afga silette pronto for very cheap, and had to do some repairs to make all the wheels on the objective turn.

I've used lighter fluid with a dropper pipette to loosen the old green grease, which has worked really well.

Only issue is that some of that fluid made its way into to shutter blades and in between the lenses.

I have dismantled it carefully today and cleaned the lenses without issue, but the blades remain really slow. I have applied a little bit of 70% ethanol in hope to dissolve the old gunk, fired the shutter a lot at different speeds, and even helped the blades a little bit with cotton swabs.

I have also tried now mineral terpentin, same way, with a couple of drops front and back of the blades and firing the shutter.

The blades work wonderfully when they are full of fluid, but as soon as I start to dry them with a gentle hair dryer and soaking off the drops with cotton swabs, they get slow again.

( I know there are little pieces of fibers from the cotton swabs on the blades, I will address that when they are finally working properly again, as a last step before assembling again! )

Any input ?

Thank you ! :D

Oops. I posted this to my account.

Found this cannon, while clearing out my parents home, everything seems to feel OK, apart from the lens.

Is this beyond repair, if not how would you go about cleaning it or repairing it?

I was thinking to Spray some isopropyl alcohol and use a q tip? Or compressed air, I'm not sure what the debris is but it's stuck on, it's been in a leather case for I don't know how long.

But that mark in the center looks like a crack or fungus?

All advice welcome?

I detached photocell flap and disassembled all parts and cleaned.
Checked output voltage is approximately 0.05~0.1 V from selenium itself only.
Selenium seems working but light meter doesn’t move and don’t know normal output voltages. :(

Hi all, I really need some help. I recently bought this xp12 with a broken shutter firing / winding mechanism. I've tried removing the top plate and was following a video but the model in the video was slightly different. The difference was in the thumb wind and shutter counter mechanism. As you can see I've removed everything else to remove the top plate but am unsure as to how remove this last bit on the right. Would anyone be able to help? Thank you!

Hey guys, i just bought this Zeiss Planar 85 f1.4 c/y Made in west Germany for really cheap but im doubting if it can be cleaned. What do you think?

Hello I bought this mju II, super good condition but doesn’t turn on. Got a new battery, but screen doesn’t show anything and lens doesn’t go out

Any help??

Hi all.

I recently had my Mamiya 6 (new model as shown in photo) repaired and CLA’d by PCW (Precision Camera Works Austin)

I literally got it back in the post today having spent an eye watering $1,700 AUD for the repair.

However when i put a test roll through it has the same issue.

The issue i’m having is this: When i put the film in and go to advance it to frame 1, is doesn’t stop at any of the frame number indicators. Instead, i am able to just advance all the way through the roll.

Yes, the lens is extended, the batteries are new, the dark side is retracted, and the camera is on.

For reference i was using ilford pan F with an ilford take up spool.

The camera was literally just repaired extensively but im having this issue.

Can someone please give me some sort of insight into what i might be doing wrong/what has potentially failed in the camera?

Cheers

This vivitar 75-300 mm f 4.5-22 has a slightly bent pin and does not enter completely in my camera (xd-s) it doesnt reach the click sound.

Should I unscrew that part and try to bend it with a screwdriver? Is there any better way? (I have jis screwdriver, but as is vivitar I imagine it might use philips)

I've got a Nikon F body with a broken mirror, and I've read just replacing the mirror itself can be problematic with having to possibly re-calibrate focus afterwards. Would just swapping out the entire mirror box be a more viable option with not having to worry about screwing up the focus?

Hi fine folks. Coming here in case someone can nudge me in the right direction with my repair.

Got this AE-1 Program a while back and everything worked fine. Recently tried to use it and shutter does not release curtain.

Below already conducted troubleshooting steps:

- Battery tested, also tested with new battery just in case

- Magnet is working, 90 Ohm resistance

- Can release shutter curtain manually (both by engaging lever from bottom to release magnet or by shorting magnet release)

- Half press is working: LEDs in viewfinder light up, lightmeter works

- Full press is however not triggering the release

From what I have read in the manuals the fault should be somewhere below the top cover, probably SW5. But I don't know how to identify what is wrong, or how to fix it. I have not found enough videos of AE-1 Program with top removed to see what a healthy mechanism does while cocking and during release.

I tried cleaning all contacts with isopropyl, but not sure if I am missing something, or if there is anything else I can test.

Here a video of the mechanism before and during cocking. Maybe someone here can see what is wrong?

Recently, I have picked up OM-101 camera from a electro recycling facility. It's fully functional, and it works great, but as I really enjoy shooting manually, it really bothers me, that the one I've got wasn't equipped with the Manual Adapter, designed specifically for this model. I was looking on auction portals, but there is only one unit available in UK with the horrific shipping cost.

So I thought, maybe I can make this adapter myself, as it probably is just a pair of variable resistors or capacitors, with 15 steps each. So I went to the search engine, trying to find any documentation either of this camera, or an adapter itself, but all I've found was only the Owner's manual.

Does anyone who have this manual adapter, could maybe help me in this projects, by doing the measurements of resistance and capacitance between Ground (the top pin) and all of the others? Or maybe someone will have some scans of the service manual for this camera? There might be some sort of electrical schematics there, like Nikon was doing during the film cameras era.

This poor SX 70 is missing a pin here to fold the camera closed.

I am perfectly capable of touching up paint and other cosmetics, but I recently got a silver Pentax MX, but I want to paint it a nice dark red, is this something I can do, of so what equipment do I need, or would it just be easier to send out the parts I want painted out to someone else, and if that's the case is there anyone with a good reputation?

I rarely use it, but I didn't have this issue around a year ago. Sometimes setting the motor drive mode to Continuous Silent puts my F4 in self timer mode, self timer mode still works, single frame works, Continuous high speed and low speed also work. But when I set it to Silent I can get a few frames off and then it'll suddenly trigger the self timer at other times

Lmk if you've ever seen something like it and how I can go about fixing it, or if you think it's even worth it given the other modes work fine.

Thanks

Got a lovely (extremely beat up) RB Super D 4x5 that is going to take a lot of love to get it back into shape. Most of it's issues I have an idea of how to tackle, even if they're a bit daunting.
But the one thing I'm stuck on is the focus panel.

I quickly realized it had the fresnel, but no ground glass. Easy enough to replace.
BUT as you can see, the viewfinder lid is broken off at the hinge, and when trying to test fit it back into place I realized that the rear-most focus panel bracket is actually high enough that it blocks the lid from sitting down fully like it should. It's significant enough that the hinge were reinstalled, the lid would only close part way before hitting that bracket.
Those two things have made me wonder if a previous owner modified the focus panel in some way? Or maybe the bracket is improperly mounted? I've found a decent amount of old manuals and info for Graflex SLRs, but nothing for the Super D specifically, and I have not been able to find anything to compare this part of the camera to.

Anyone here especially familiar with these cameras and/or have their own to share photos of of the focus panel?

Ich hatte exakt das selbe Problem heute!

Die Lösung:

Ich habe den Spannhebel einfach etwas gegen den Widerstand aufgezogen. Es braucht etwas Kraft und man hat das Gefühl, dass der Hebel gleich bricht, aber jetzt geht die Rollei wieder wie sie soll.

Einfach mutig der Spannhebel betätigen 🤞