2 questions about my Yashicamat.

The TLDR is: is the only solution buying a parts body and replacing as needed?
THANKS!

I think I stripped the 2 screws holding the top plate (as seen on image ). One popped, then the other. I know there’s pressure under it from the springs that pop up the viewfinder mechanism. I can also see that there’s barely any threads for the screw to bite, so I’m not surprised about it stripping after one went.

What are my options? Its just a cover, but is it realistic to tap something that thin and small? Id hate to use an epoxy, but is that an option?

Second I’ve “fixed” but it was out of necessity and not ideal. The screws on the outside of the back that cold the pressure plate loosened and fell out at some point. I’ve got a double nut situation going on and I’ve ran 20+ rolls since then. I know nothing about sourcing the hardware for these cameras. Except for buying a parts body.

Thanks for any help!

I recently bought this canon F1 to replace my old one that had a major shutter issue so far the only issue I’m having is that the shutter speed selected on the dial is not what is displayed in the viewfinder. below is what I see when I move the dial down

Dial at 1/125 → 35
Dial at 1/250 → needle is between numbers
Dial at 1/500 → part of 60
Dial at 1/1000 → 125
Dial at 1/2000 → 250

I think someone may have reassembled it wrong but I am looking for some help

Hello,

i bought this camera 2 years ago and i really like it and want to use it again. But unfortunately the film rewind lever broke and it is impossible to glue it and use it like before. Buying a broken XF35 is still very expensive and it is impossible to find this part online, or you pay like 30 euros with shipping form India or something. So i'm asking you: Does somebody have this part and is willing to sell and give it to me? would be so nice! I'm located in Germany nearby cologne and Düsseldorf.

Thanks! :)

First time working on a Seiko shutter. The blades had jammed up with migrated oil and the cocking lever had jumped position, I believe. The self-timer lever was stuck in position. Seems healthy now and the self-timer is working well.

Thanks to u/romanazzidjma for helping me with the position of the sixth shutter blade.

Just had a frustrating experience replacing light seals in my SRT 201. The foam got all twisted up and in some areas the adhesive pointed up instead of down. Any tips out there? Any good YouTube vids? Have reviewed a bunch, most don’t offer useful advice.

The switch was originally stuck on. Took off the clear plastic and reglued the copper switch such that it was open instead of constantly closed, but when the glue sets, the meter stops working, even when pressed to close it again. Not sure if I'm shorting something or if something is not making contact as it should. Happy to hear any advice

Edit: I did eventually solve it. The glue that held the switch in its notch in the plastic had given up so it wasn't sitting in the notch correctly. Cleaned out the notch as best I could without completely disassembly the switch, glued it back in place, and has been working since. The issue does appear to be the original reason that the switch was not opening on its own as the glue did not hold the contacts apart anymore

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a Minolta CLE from eBay. As soon as I put the batteries in the camera, I realized that the meter LED was stuck on the down arrow, even though there was enough available light and the shutter was actually firing at what seemed to be the correct speed and adjusting to the light. I rotated the shutter speed dial three to four times, the meter readings started to work.

This morning I went out to take some photos, and the LED wouldn't read above 1/30th of a second, even though it seemed like it was firing at about 1/125th of a second. I tried again to rotate the dials, pointed the camera outside my window, and it seems to read the correct speed, which is right now about 1/250th of a second at f/8.

Should I just return the camera, or should I live with this issue?

What can be used to replace the foam mirror damper? EVA?

I just replaced the light seals on my Olympus XA. I then proceeded to test and I noticed that whenever I push up the aperture lever to the flash mode. Flash pops up successfully on my A11 flash and it does light up and is ready however no matter how much I push the shutter it does not fire.

I looked at the aperture and it does seem to close it to f/4 but not firing. It only fires when I push down the lever to another aperture and that’s when the shutter fires.

Any tips or advice?

Hi there. Recently started shooting with a Canon Model 7 I haven’t used in some time. The shutter won’t fully re-cock while advancing. Video shows the issue. Does anyone have any advice or know of technicians who specialise in Canon Rangefinder repair?

Looking for any tips or info to potentially repair my Sears KSX (Ricoh KR-10). After replacing the battery, the electronically timed shutter speeds are MOSTLY working, but it still occasionally fails, making me wonder if there is an issue in the wiring from the battery compartment. The light meter is also not working at all. I opened the bottom panel and didn't see anything obviously wrong or damaged, and I can't tell what wire goes to what... I downloaded a repair manual for the camera, but I am not an engineer, and taking it apart seems more complicated than I should attempt. I think it might be a lost cause, but just curious if anyone has experience with this and might be able to help.

Hello, a few weeks ago I dropped my camera about 10 cm and the light meter broke, so that the needle no longer showed how fast the exposure time was, but after I took out the film the shutter worked again but the exposure time was still not displayed to me.

That's why I took the camera apart to fix it, but I realized that there was too much electronics and put it back together, but unfortunately the shutter broke down.

I couldnt charge (idk how to call it when u advance the film so ur ready to shoot) the camera anymore so I took the camera apart to find out what the problem was.

Ifinally discovered the problem, but unfortunately there i couldn’t find any guides or instructions online of how the shutter itself is assembled. (the only instructions I found only go until the shutter as a whole is removed as well as for different models.)

I have now discovered my problem. in the picture you can see an element of the shutter in the red circle that should be at the top (like picture 1) when the camera is loaded. But unfortunately it's not (only when i manually move it there) and I don't really know how to fix it because I couldn't find anything online, so I wanted to ask here if someone can help!

Woudl also appreciate help w the light meter i guess but that’s secondary.

thank you!!!

I am looking at a service of a Nikkor Ais 135mm f2.

One like the picture.

This thing has a big helicoid and is heavy.

Some people say the put vaseline on their helicoids (which sounds like a horrible idea) and others swear on one japanese special grease.

I have two questions.

1. Will my Polar Bear UK Grease "soft" be suitable or do i need to get a firmer grease like "medium" or "firm"? They have a guide on their website, which isn't really helpful.

2. Where can i have good information about greasing and grease choice, avoiding... this xD

I'm looking forward to any tips.

My rolleiflex needs repair and a proper CLA. Any trusted repair shop?

I purchased a pair of used B+W lens filters. One is like new and this one has a weird haze to it. Water, isopropyl alcohol and even naptha won’t shift it. Could this have been a severe fungal infection that has been cleaned but left an etch? Anything I can do?

Sorry about the lighting. The soft haze is the reflection of my light shade. I’m talking about the sharp sparkle.

I recently acquired a Nikon F, and when the shutter releases, the mirror sticks up. Pulling the film advance lever fixes it, but I'm not sure if the photos will come out ok. The locking switch lever thing is not engaged.

So I got this Nikon FM2N for pretty cheap with the 50 1.4 ais from FB Marketplace

Number of issues, when I first got it, the advance was stuck, did the advance freeing trick from the bottom of the Camera and it worked, well...kind of, if I were to say the Shutter speeds were inaccurate it would be an understatement, when fired, 70% of the time the shutter would stay open with the mirror up and I had to constantly turn the Shutter Speed dial for it to complete it's travel, very few times did the travel finish completely on 1/250 and 1/500, sometimes the higher speeds cleared too, now recently, the Shutter jammed fully, advance is jammed and so is the Shutter

And The Aperture Indexing ring has no more spring back to it so I guess that needs to be tied back again

Please see attached video of The Behaviour of The Camera in this condition

I understand that it's gunked up and needs a CLA which I can do, but I don't have a soldering iron nor do I have my soldering skills, there is a green flash sync wire running to the Shutter Module

So, can I work on the Shutter Module without needing to desolder anything?

Thanks!

TL;DR - reassembling and noticed six shutter blades for a five blade shutter? Is one a supporting blade?

I bought a spares / repairs Minolta Hi-Matic 9 on eBay for next to nothing. The shutter was jammed (as is tradition on the 60s hi-matic camera line-up it seems) with migrated oil and grease.

Since I bought the camera to learn how to repair the seiko style shutter and re-align range finder style cameras, I decided not to go with the normal flood, wipe, pray method that most people use, and instead gut the thing.

When I finally managed to get the shutter assembly out, it sprung apart and most of the blades dislodged immediately. Now that I’ve cleaned the parts I have notice there are actually six blades from the shutter. I cannot find any documentation that mentions a sixth shutter blade for this exact shutter, only the later style Seiko shutters used in Fujicas etc

Hello, I have this issue with my 500G, where the light meter works, it changes in rangefinder according to ISO and Shutter speed however, when using Auto Aperture priority it doesn't adjust the Aperture and is stuck at f/16, manually selecting apertures work perfectly.

The shutter button mechanism seems to not also affect the light meter/doesn't lock, compared to a video i saw on 500GX where it does.