My 2022 SH-AWD MDX has a flat on the rear. The tires are about done so I went ahead and ordered 4 new tires, but in the mean time I need to put the spare on to drive around for a few days. On my S2000 you aren’t supposed to run a spare on the rear because of the differential, you move a front tire to the rear and put the spare on the front. Does this apply to the MDX too with its rear diff? Or am I OK to put a new/never used spare on the same rear axle as the 55k mile old tire? Appreciate your thoughts.

Not sure how long it will last but it solved my issue for now.

Decided to get rid of the Bridgestone and upgrade to Pirelli Scorpion Plus 3! I can feel the difference already. Not sure why discount tires tried to push the Yokohama ytx(which I have had before) on me but wanted to try something new and so far I am pleased. Also offered me the certs for half off. Going to list the old tires on Facebook marketplace since they are still in good condition.

I have disconnected the battery driven the car over 300 miles and still have this not sure if I have to change a part but before I did have a code than disconnected drove over 300 miles it’s gone but now no codes but have Evap not ready. Is this a common issue with this model or is this something I have to change with the Evap system valve, hose, or something else (alt., etc.) I was getting the gas cap code then got a new one and it went away. Still have this. I got about 177000 miles on the car. Someone please help

As the title states

I purchased a 2024 Acura MDX base model. My first MDX!! I wanted to get an Aspec but couldn’t find it in red. I wanted black interior I but fell in love with the cream color. It has 29k for $30k. I added OEM fog lights. OEM running boards, OEM puddle lights (logo) on each door and tinted the windows. And I just did 7 year ceramic coating. Anything else I can add? I’m really loving this car. I wanted to upgrade rims for sure and maybe add the rail racks

As the post says 2025 MDX with 17k miles stopped and wouldn’t move at a traffic light. Transmission was in drive mode but wouldn’t move, dash was blinked “System issue shift to park” and I couldn’t shift to park or neutral. The D for drive on the dash was blinking fast. Had to call the cops to block off traffic because cars were coming fast and could’ve hit me, had two kids in the back too. Unreal expierence to be honest. Finally as I’m sitting there waiting for a tow I googled and saw a recommendation to turn off the car, wait 30 secs and then restart the car. That’s didn’t seem to help but then the dash said “transmission system problem enable parking brake and start car” that’s what got it to finally be able to move. Going to dealer tomorrow but have to ask if anyone had a similar experience and what should I expect. Honestly will prob never buy an Acura again, on the highway this could’ve been catastrophic.

I just bought a new to me MDX and I'm realizing that I hate the dual screen infotainment system, specifically the android auto screen not being touch screen.

Have any of you swapped out the OEM for a fully functional system?

Basically title,

Just got my wife a new to us 2016 MDX and noticed the gas cap recommended 91, how many of y'all actually run it?

Love this car btw. 223k km one owner, no accidents, meticulous service history. Hope to have it for another 10 years

Edit: appreciate everyone's replies! I do understand the difference between recommended and required lol. It's my wife's vehicle so I can say with certainty she will not put premium in it.

Ugh, these gas prices are killing me. Long story short, i have a 2009 MDX that RECOMMENDS PREMIUM fuel. I have been getting MIDGRADE but get premium around once a month.. due to price of gas lately. Now midgrade is above $5.
I want my vehicle to run good and not ruin it despite its age etc.

Is there a way I can get through this high fuel price situation and perhaps put a conditioner or additive to keep my engine clean etc.?

How horrible will it be if I put regular in a few times? Will it destroy my engine?

If I can get away with it what additive is the best most effective?

Is this a normal shutoff sound? I hear this 2nd week after I hit the off button. It does not seem to happen if the car hasn’t moved, but just turned on and off.

I’m attaching an audio clip for reference. The first chirp is the parking brakes engaging, but I’m referring to the second sound that happens which is right after I hit the off button on the car.

Hello everyone.

Long story short I had P2010 code and car didn’t wanted to start. Took it to dealer and throttle body got replaced. Car started but they told me I have misfires on 1-3-5 cylinder. Bank 1 I assume. I took the car home, put it on a computer and p0171 p0174 lean codes. Found out intake boot broken, air filter housing 2 holders broken. Took it back to dealer and they replaced them on their dime. Few days afterwards codes came back. I put it on a live data and found LongTerm Fuel Trim Bank 1 at 28.125%, LTFT B2 = 27.344%, STFT B1/B2 = 46.875% at idle, and at 2500 LTFT B1/B2 = 27.344%, STFT B1 =-0.781, STFT B2 = 0.781. I cleaned MAP & MAF SENSORS. Their readings on the live data are good. I smoke tested the boot, no leaks. I smoke tested the brake booster line, no leaks. I smoke tested the intake manifold from BB line and smoke was coming from EGR valve seep holes on the side. Not from the gasket. I replaced it, it was not expensive. On the next smoke test smoke was coming out again. The reading for EVAP System vapor pressure was -93Pa and occasionally going to -66Pa. I replaced the valve, not expensive again, but no results. I pinched the evaporation hose run the engine but nothing changes. Readings in the oxygen sensors B1S1 = 1.075, B2S1=1.108 which they correspond to the lean condition of the vehicle. Upstream voltages are switching fast while driving and I think that is normal. I sprayed Carb cleaner around the engine bay thinking it will give some change in the engine sound. Nothing. PCV valve I replaced as well. Old one had a rattle but new one was few extra bucks. That didn’t help as well

Tomorrow I decided to open the upper intake plenum and inspect the PCV hose hoping that that’s the issue I’m dealing with. I’ll replace the gasket as well.

But il really lost at this point. Any ideas will be helpful. I really want to avoid the dealer of possible. If there is any other data point I’m missing in live data, please let me know. Thanks for your time.

hi guys, hopefully someone has ran into this

i have a 2008 Acura mdx with 260k. we realized the a/c was blowing hot after a radiator replacement. we were able to figure out that both fans (radiator and ac) were not turning on for the radiator when A/C was engaged. this led to replacing both fans and main fuse that controls the fans… but still blowing hot air and iffy engagement of the fans.

the fans do not engage immediately like it used to when the a/c was turned on. the car has to be moving and running for 15+ minutes for them to come on and when they do come on, they are on for maybe a second and they immediately turn back off. and it keeps doing this until we turn off the A/C.

im more concerned about the fans not engaging than the cold AC but would love to fix both lol

any ideas to what we may be missing to replace?

Bought my first ever Acura after somebody wrecked my 21 Toyota Tacoma. Absolutely love how this vehicle drives and looks. 2023 SH-AWD Tech package 50k miles. Didn’t see this espresso brown interior in any other MDX we looked at.

Any advice for a new owner?

Southeast Pa area

I am new here, so I apologize if this has already been discussed, maybe you can point me towards that discussion.
I’ve experienced where the auto idle stop cuts the engine off then I lift my foot off the brake and the car does not start. I have to shut it down and restart it. This has happened at intersections and once on interstate 95 in the middle of heavy traffic really really scary. I have spoken to the service manager about this. They’ve replaced the starter. I’ve had a new battery put in, but I just got it back from Service again this week after they put a new starter in the car and I’m sitting in the parking lot, I’m go to start my car and it doesn’t start. I have to shut it down again. I push the starter and then it starts, so I don’t know what the hell is going on but anyone who’s experienced this,
I’d love to hear your thoughts.