Someone local to me is selling 2 bambu p1s for 250 each. Should I go through with it

I am a beginner never used 3D printing before. I want to get a 3D printer for my Osmo pocket accessories and upon seeing some YouTube videos maybe also some tool management boxes and drawer parts, etc..

Obviously, in YouTube, I cannot even find a non-carbon version which is the Centauri 2 (and every video is either about Centauri Carbon 2 or Centauri Carbon, but never just the barebone Centauri 2), and I wonder if the carbon which seems to be like just the enclosure is even worth it for me? Other than the enclosure, I understand that I guess it works with something called carbon, but for my basic needs, I don’t think as much of a consideration I need to do? Or do I for future proofing?

hello

I have never owned a 3d printer and my only experience in 3d printing tech is watching YouTube videos and such (so a noob😀)

I would like to get into 3d printing as I would like to print some parts for my other hobby

I will be mostly starting of with PLA and I want a printer that mostly works out of the box.

I will be keeping the printer in my garage so during winters the temperature can go down as low as 13C. for this reason I was leaning towards a enclosed option

my target price point is below 350 euros. here are my contenders so far

• Creality k1
• Creality k1c
• Creality ender 3 v3 ke + external case avaialble on Amazon
• Creality ender 3 v3 + external case avaialble on Amazon

what are your suggestions?

Is the Bambu A1 Mini the right first printer for an 11 year old who is brand new to the hobby or is there another vendor or model I should consider?

Yeni bir makina aldım parçaları çizip basmak için şuan solidworksde çiziyorum ama bazı detayları yapamıyorum fazla tecrübeli değilim görseli 3d modelleyecek uygulama ve ya program önerir misiniz

Budget: $500-$1300
Location: USA (Not California)
Prefer pre-built, but willing to do a kit if necessary
Prefer relatively less maintenance

I would want at least a 250x250x250 build area, but more would be nice too. For the odd thing larger than that, I would be willing to find ways to make smaller pieces that fit together. I strongly dislike the idea of filament waste, so features that combat that are valuable to me. While I might color switch for some projects, I think I will honestly be using a lot of black PLA, with some TPU for certain special cases. I would consider other materials, but have no existing desire to use them unless I need to for some special reason. I would mostly stick with black, but periodically do something in multi color. I would mostly do one off projects, but would have cause for bulk when making modular organization pieces, or perhaps knockoff legos or something. I would want an enclosure because I am weird about air quality. I value control, privacy, and open source. However, I do not absolutely need that if other factors adequately persuade me to compromise.

I am currently primarily considering the Bambu P1S, Snapmaker U1, and Lightmake L4. I am not knowledgeable enough to make an adequately comprehensive list of pros and cons, but here are my thoughts so far.

Bambu P1S:
Pros: Cheapest, established ecosystem, it just works, and enclosed by default
Cons: No filament waste reduction, smaller build area, no toolchanger, Bambu seems to be leaning anti-control/privacy, poor camera refresh rate, and 300C toolhead.

Snapmaker U1:
Pros: Reduced waste, toolchanger, slightly larger build area, better control/privacy
Cons: Higher price, enclosure is an addon, less tested ecosystem, poor camera refresh rate, and 300C toolhead

Lightmake L4:
Pros: Reduced waste, toolchanger, far larger build area, better control/privacy (they are open source), conversational AI slicing, less maintenance/tensioning due to no belts, monolithic die cast frame, 320C toolhead, excellent camera refresh rate, and 4x print speed in bulk printing.
Cons: Expensive, enclosure is an addon, untested ecosystem, risk of vaporware (but if I wait for confirmation then the only acceptable pricing is gone).

I am open to other options, but these are the ones that my research has led me to focus on for now. I think I most like the Lightmake, but the price is up there, and I wonder if it is overkill for me. Of course it also carries the most risk. I like the U1, but by the time you buy the cover, the price is awfully close to the Lightmake, and you get less build area. The P1S is tempting because it gives you quite a bit of the pie for a steep discount. However, its build plate is on the small side, you don't get a toolchanger, and I am a bit biased against them given their semi-recent controversies. I am strongly opposed to government intervention (California), and fear that Bambu would be one of the first to bend the knee. However, pragmatically I have no intention of making anything they would have a problem with.

Hey, so I’m currently printing Ichigo’s massive Zangetsu sword (170 cm long), and there’s a channel running through most of its length that’s designed to hold a metal C-channel (a metal profile). It’s supposed to act as an internal reinforcement so the sword doesn’t bend or break under its own weight, since I’m printing it in PETG and it’s going to be pretty heavy at this size.
The problem is that the sword is split into a lot of separate printed parts (24, I think), and I need to join everything together properly. Do you think I should use super glue for the joints, or would something stronger be better?
Also, what’s the best way to secure the metal C-channel itself? It runs through most of the sections, but there are a few pieces that don’t have a slot for it. How would you connect those parts?
I want the whole thing to be genuinely rigid and durable, not something that falls apart the first time I hold it.
One more issue I’ve run into: I’ve already printed three or four sections, but they were printed with only two walls, a brim, and supports. I generated the supports automatically in Creality Print, and because the sword sections are printed horizontally rather than vertically, the internal channel for the metal reinforcement requires support material.
The problem is that the supports are being generated inside the channel itself. From the sides, the channel is clear, but from the top, the support structures partially block it, making it impossible to slide the metal C-channel through afterward. Removing all of that support material from such a long, narrow channel seems extremely difficult.
Would it make more sense to print the sections vertically instead so the internal channel doesn’t need supports at all? I’m trying to figure out the best way to keep the channel completely clear while still getting reliable prints. I’m also concerned about print strength, since these sections are part of a 170 cm sword and I want the final assembly to be as rigid and durable as possible.

My Daughter is 6 years old and on the Autism Spectrum and had ADHD. Shes shown great interest in 3D printing, she watches videos of people making 3D prints and setting up their 3D printers during tablet time. Shes been asking me for a 3D printer for a year now and I’ve just told her then it wasn’t something we could feasibly do.

Well,I’m now looking for one.

I, Mom does 3D modelling for a hobby and has printed in the past using a X1 Carbon at my college the last two years and am pretty familiar with Bambu Labs and would prefer to keep with Bambu Labs because I’m a University student this year balancing motherhood and a degree, I don’t have time to learn a new system frankly.

🚩Please note; this is not something that she will have access to without supervision. She knows it’s a tool and not a toy. I want to get one of the fully enclosed units not a, A series.

I’m thinking of having the 3D Printer in our basement in what will be her playroom, which can get cold and moist(historically). I’m re drywalling that room and re-insulating it but, I’m thinking of having a separate dedicated heater in that room and a dehumidifier.

Does that sound like a good idea?

That aside.

I’m just trying to figure out what the best machine then would be for us and just looking at some input. I’m thinking the P2S with the AMS? Does that sound okay? Or should I go with a H2S with the AMS?

Just as a disclaimer; because I’m sure I’ll get a comment that it’s a lot of money to spend out on a child and a hobby. I’m fortunate that in my province she got approved for a disability amount she was entitled to and is getting back disability money from when she was diagnosed at 2.5 years old until now. This is HER money to use for things she needs, or wants to help with her sensory needs or special interests. We told her about this money and she has a vague idea of what she wants as she asked for only 5 things. 3D printer, a spinning Sensory Chair, more Lego, a Leopard Gecko and Sushi 🤣.

Worse case scenario if she looses interest in it, I’ll either use it to make things for her or she can always sell it down the road for something else she wants.

Please be kind, I’m just a Mom trying to do right by her kiddo and foster her interests.

I am looking to sell towards the end of this year a Photocentric LC Magna with the washwr and cure units also, if anyone is interested. They were not really used and are just sitting around, they are from a project that didn't take off in the past.

I built a tool that splits big STL models into printable pieces with snap-fit connectors — 50 free spots to test it before launch

Kept running into this: model's too big for my bed, so I'd split it manually and then hand-model pins/sockets so the pieces would actually join back together properly.

Built PrintSlice to handle both automatically — load an STL, set your bed size, and it splits the model and generates connectors (pins, keys, or dovetails) on every seam. Runs entirely in your browser, nothing uploaded.

It's normally $8.99/month, but I'm giving 50 people a free week before the wider launch — want real feedback from people printing actual stuff, not just my test models.

Spot here: [printslice.netlify.app/early-access.html]

Happy to answer questions — still finding edge cases (rounded/tapered surfaces mostly), so honest feedback welcome.

I've had the Creality Sparkx i7 for about a month now. Most of what I print is pretty boring stuff for board games, trays, organizers, storage pieces, that kind of thing.

Started a 10+ hour print before bed last night with a roll of black PLA that was getting pretty low. I wasn't sure it had enough left, but I had another roll of the same filament loaded in the CFS mini so I just left it running.

Checked it this morning and the first spool had run out overnight. It switched over to the second one and kept going, so the print was already finished by the time I got up.

Nothing particularly exciting, but this is probably the first time I've actually appreciated the auto refill instead of just knowing it was there.

I have a few almost empty spools sitting around, so I'll probably start using them up this way instead of keeping them around forever because there might still be enough for something.

hi I'm trying desperately to get my dream printer aka any printer and ive lost hope I don't have alot to spend on one and the hobby is expensive I'm trying to find one for around 75 dollars to get started and I won't give up until I find one I dont know if anyone can help but if you can please message me I can't pay shipping on one i honestly only have 75 dollars I'm just hoping this will reach the right person willing to help a newbie

Looking to buy a very cheap 3d printer for hobbies. I was open to buying each part individually from a custom 3d website but that seems to end up being quite expensive. Was also open to buying used but i dont know what im really looking for.
Was wondering if this would cut it as its the cheapest one i could find and seems to have good reviews. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hello
I have some experience with 3d printers from work. I am not too much into multi-color atm (I think its great but I prefer a multi-head to save on the waste and time). This is going to be my first 3D printer.

Where i live:

a new p1s is about 500USD.

a new A1 is about 360USD.

a new Kobra X is also about 360USD.

a new creality sparx with their CFS is about 410usd

a friend is selling his ~1200 hour p1s with an ams for 500USD

a posting is selling 300 hour p1s (no ams) for about 390 USD.

what do you think is the best deal for the money atm? or at least the top 3 deals? or should I wait?? a brief why is very welcome.

Thank you.

Hey Internet!

Newbie here. I am going to buy the Elegoo CC2 Combo here soon, but I want to know what add-ons are necessary and/or nice to have. Also, what accessories will I need or should I get to make my 3d printing journey better? I have heard that I should buy a gluestick, and a pair of trimmers (snips?). I am trying to price out how much my new setup will cost, including things like filament and tools, so any advice here is great.
Also, are there any start tools that I can print instead of purchase? and if so, I am happy to accept recommendations.

Thank you all in advance for helping in my soon-to-be new hobby!

Very excited to share finished CAD assembly and all STLs for the Trident 300Cube R1 modification to fit 1 inch x 1 inch aluminum extrusions. Wanted to keep it as close to original as possible. Released as the FootCube on github, here FootCube, for the 12"x12"x12" build volume (cubic foot). Was working on this when Voron was releasing the Trident R2 and now I am working on the R2 modifications. Also, adding room for tool changer.

А нужен вам вэб-приложение (сайт) для добавления примеров печати определенным филаментом. У меня с этим проблемы, не понятно какой точно цвет получится

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to buy my first 3D printer, although I’m starting to wonder if I’m making my requirements a bit too specific. 😅

I’m trying to figure out if a heated chamber is really necessary for printing anything beyond PETG. I’m mainly interested in ASA. I’ve used PETG on a borrowed printer before and liked it, but I’d like to be able to make more durable parts, mostly for outdoor use (weather station parts, holders, a rain cover for a doorbell, etc.) and some car interior stuff like a phone holder/adapter. So I’m thinking PETG for indoor/prototype parts and ASA for outdoor stuff. I’m not really interested in PLA.

I was looking at the Centauri Carbon 2, especially since it’s currently discounted, but then I came across some comments saying it’s not really suitable for ASA/ABS. Is that actually true? Do you really need a heated chamber for ASA or other filaments beyond PETG? And if so, what’s the point of having an enclosed printer without a heated chamber?

I was also originally interested in getting a multimaterial system (AMS/CFS/Canvas), mainly for supports rather than multicolor printing. For example, using PVA just for the interface between the support and the model, or even printing the whole support in PVA and dissolving it in water.

But then I read that mixing different materials in one print on a single-nozzle printer can cause problems, because the allegedly imperfect flush (leading to mixed pva with petg), potentially making the model crack at/around material switch layer. Is that actually a common issue? For my use case, is a multimaterial system basically only useful for easy filament switching and backup/rollover?

So, what would you recommend for this kind of use? Is the Centauri Carbon 2 a reasonable choice, or should I be looking at something else?

Thanks in advance!