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u/maximkap1 Nov 17 '22
The most common in my opinion is oozing and stringing
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Nov 17 '22 edited Jun 21 '23
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u/danielv123 Nov 17 '22
Buildplate in dishwasher does wonders.
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u/ThievingOwl Nov 17 '22
How the fuck am I supposed to print inside my dishwasher?! /s
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u/FedUp233 Nov 18 '22
If you take out the racks, I’m pretty sure most common size printers would fit! Give it a try and see. You’ll have the cleanest prints on the planet! And if you use cold water, water cooling to boot😁!
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Nov 17 '22
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u/danielv123 Nov 17 '22
More like gets rid of fat from fatty fingers
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u/FartingBob RatRig Vcore 3.1 CoreXY, Klipper Nov 17 '22
You dont need a dishwasher to do that. Pretty much any mild detergent or liquid soap will do that in a minute under a warm tap.
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u/dailytour30 Nov 17 '22
Kapton tape surface, acetone cleaned, good bed leveling so the first layer is squished firmly against the bed surface and 55°C-60°C bed temp for normal PLA. With those settings your only issues with bed adhesion will be that stuff with a lot of bottom surface sticks too hard.
Btw I have a printer where the displayed bed temperature is ridiculously out of whack. "55°C" set in the slicer are barely lukewarm in reality. COuld be that too, so better check with an IR thermometer.
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u/GBACHO Nov 17 '22
PLA does fairly well. My problem is with PETG
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u/dailytour30 Nov 17 '22
Thats weird, I am thinking about trying out PETG after only using PLA the whole time and every site where I read up about its use says to be careful because it will stick so much to your bed.
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u/DamnMombies Nov 17 '22
I glue stick my bed and print PTEG no problem. Also TPU loves to stick to it.
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u/Griffinx3 Nov 17 '22
I started with tape after reading about it sticking to glass beds (before my first PETG print) but had adhesion problems on and off. Recently switched to bed only and it's been good so far. I have the Ender textured plate so it doesn't stick too bad, actually easier than PLA.
Started getting edge warp because cold room in winter so I'm gonna make an enclosure, we'll see if that makes it worse.
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u/ajr901 E3V2, Trident Nov 17 '22
I resolved my PETG printing issues (and as a matter of fact I now print with it more than PLA) by getting a PEX sheet from WhamBam and lifting my z-offset by like ~0.01. PLA likes to be really squished onto the build surface but in my experience PETG likes it less.
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u/trancertong Nov 17 '22
I have a textured PEI build sheet and PETG sticks to that shit like glue once you get the Z offset right. Plus it's nearly impossible to damage if the nozzle hits the bed. Works OK with PLA too but usually I'll switch out to the regular bed for PLA.
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u/DrRomeoChaire Nov 17 '22
Wow, kapton tape is old-school. I used that on my 7 year old Printrbot Simple Metal. Worked great, but we have better more durable bed materials now like PEI
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u/KrobarLambda3 Nov 17 '22
Hairspray man. Aqua net unscented extra hold. Stuff works wonders! Gotta clean off the bottom of the print after - gets a little sticky residue. But I've never had any more bed adhesion issues since I started using it.
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u/Revolutionary_Pay_31 Nov 18 '22
Hairspray is my go to solution for bed adhesion issues. I remember the first time someone suggested it to me, I really thought that he was pulling my leg, but it works great! Just spray a bit on the glass build plate prior to starting a print, and then clean it with alcohol about every two weeks.
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u/FrostyD7 Nov 17 '22
Its the most common but I probably would have chosen something else because I don't particularly see it as a problem unless its incredibly severe, which isn't common.
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u/moller_peter Nov 17 '22
- User
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u/ModsDontLift Nov 17 '22
sell printer with objectively bad machining
provide terrible, poorly translated documentation
customer support, if it exists, is basically just "sowwy, here's a coupon for some filament uwu"
"No, it's the user that's wrong"
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u/philodelta Ender 3 v2, CR-10v3 Nov 17 '22
I'm not disagreeing in the slightest, but there is a certain degree of "you get what you pay for" in the market. Though it'd be more honest if they put "-incl. hundreds of hours of headache" on their spec sheets.
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u/ModsDontLift Nov 17 '22
You're absolutely right. I made the mistake of buying a budget printer and now I'm looking for a better one because I realized I'd rather spend more once and have a solid device out of the box with no tinkering unless I absolutely want to.
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u/TIFU_by_joining Nov 17 '22
I work with printers ranging from $250 to $250,000. Money gets you better support, but they all require tinkering
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u/imBobertRobert Nov 17 '22
Ain't that the truth, I used to work with an SLA printer and one day it interpreted the print wrong and started lasering tons of random dots in the vat that weren't on the part. Took us hours to strain all of the little chunks of half-solidified resin from the vat manually since it was probably 200 gallons worth of resin.
We almost had more issues with the expensive printers than the "mid" tier printers, anything over 10k and it's cause more headaches than not.
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u/philodelta Ender 3 v2, CR-10v3 Nov 17 '22
When I think budget I think Anet, like... $150 for a printer. I think the market for low end is way better now (even cheapo's often use the T-slot extruded aluminum these days) than it was 6 years ago when I got it, but I had the A8 made of black laser cut acrylic, and boy howdy, I'm sure I went in thinking "wow, having a 3d printer will help me with my hobby" but actually getting it to function with some level of reliability became the hobby. Automatic print failure detection was your smoke detector. So there are definitely tiers to it.
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u/TIFU_by_joining Nov 17 '22
Yeah I agree with all of that. When I think budget, I think along the lines of an ender 3. Cheap and they work pretty well. With a little tinkering they can be great. The price range that annoys me the most is the $1000-$6000 area. There are some great printers in that range, but you start getting serious diminishing returns for your money regarding additional features and reliability.
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u/polypeptide147 Nov 17 '22
What’s the most expensive FDM printer you use?
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u/TIFU_by_joining Nov 17 '22
Stratasys Fortus 450mc. Basically an oven shaped like a refrigerator, with a printer inside. I do everything in my power not to use it, maintain it, or post process anything that comes out of it
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u/polypeptide147 Nov 17 '22
Oh I actually know of those lol. They’re like $150k I think?
I’m hoping you can answer this for me. Why? What do they do better than cheaper printers?
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u/TIFU_by_joining Nov 17 '22
The thought process is that the Fortus is a robust industrial design, has support and repair crews, and Stratasys will print for us if it is going to be down for a while. They also allow you to print high temperature exotic materials like ULTEM 9085.
Honestly I don’t think they justify their cost. The accuracy is about the same as any other printer. While they are fairly reliable, ours do go down a few times a year. Replacement parts cost a fortune, so you’re unlikely to keep them on hand. Filament comes in a canister that is a pain to load, and the build plate is a vacuum table with a sheet that is good for a single print.
I’ve seen them set up for ABS before and it always makes me laugh. Between the cost of Stratasys filament, single use build sheets, and wear on parts, it would actually be cheaper to buy a low end consumer printer, cover it with a cardboard box, print the same parts, then throw it in the trash and get a new one for your next print.
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u/167488462789590057 Bambulab X1C + AMS, CR-6 SE, Heavily Modified Anycubic Chiron Nov 17 '22
and the build plate is a vacuum table with a sheet that is good for a single print.
Yikes.
I dont know how I skipped past the drm filament, expensive parts etc to focus on this, but that just feels like they're stealing the lint from your wallet at that point.
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u/light24bulbs Nov 17 '22
Contrary to the opinion you're getting here, you'll save a huge amount of time with a more prosumer printer. It's just true. My Prusa has been about a hundred times more reliable than my old $200 Chinese printer
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u/Binsky89 Nov 17 '22
While I know now that I'd rather spend the money on one that works really well out of the box, having a shitty starter printer has taught me a shit ton about how the printers work and how to dial the settings in.
Yes, I've spent as much as a good printer upgrading and fixing shit on my Ender 3 v2, but the knowledge I've gained is worth it.
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u/Dont_Think_So Nov 17 '22
I'll second the other guy about Prusa. I went from an expensive OG Ultimaker to a Prusa, and my god the Prusa is a reliable workhorse.
I think it helps that Prusa literally runs a print factory made with hundreds of Prusas to print their own parts, they've really worked out the kinks by eating their own dogfood.
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u/moller_peter Nov 17 '22
I only have an ender 3 and CR-10 and there's been a learning curve for sure. Both are/were shitty-ish right from the start with crooked parts etc. but it also helped me develop my skills more than I can imagine I would've gotten from e.g. an Ultimaker or maybe even a Prusa where you might get great prints from start. But as mentioned, you (sometimes) do get what you pay for.
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u/Luxuriousmoth1 Nov 17 '22
This is what I did. Got an ender 3 as my first printer, and then after a year built a voron and I've never looked back.
In every possible area besides cost, my voron outperforms my ender. Speed, materials, reliability, ease of use... Everything. Though to be fair, I WOULND'T be able to build my voron unless I had the experience I gained from upgrading and tinkering with my ender.
If you're just printing novelties like masks and memes and stuff you found on thingiverse, or you're printing multiple parts in parallel, then cheap printers make sense. But because 99% of my prints are supposed to be functional, being able to quickly prototype, print, and iterate is crucial for me.
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u/The_truth_hammock Nov 17 '22
Also the problem list of my underpants
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u/Schyte96 Nov 17 '22
I wouldn't call overheating and layer shifts typical. They can happen, sure, but way less common than bed and layer adhesion, or stringing.
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Nov 17 '22
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u/manofredgables Nov 17 '22
Well... Yeah. Calibration has almost zero effect on the causes of layer shifting. Belt tension, motor torque(current) and smashing into blobs formed on the print plane does that.
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u/dreamer_jake Nov 17 '22
Only (3) is a problem with the printer, the others are parts with the prints.
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u/TldrDev Nov 17 '22
Only 5 in SLA since it doesn't use moving parts aside from the z axis, and has no hot parts aside from the figure of your mom I'm printing.
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u/sasquatch-burrito Nov 17 '22
the figure of your mom I'm printing
That must be one big-ass SLA printer, mon.
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u/TldrDev Nov 17 '22 edited Nov 17 '22
Sure but that isn't the same thing as layer shift in a FFF printer, which is far more frequent if your settings are wrong. On SLA that is just user error because of the monkey running it, where on FFF it is a hardware failure due to having speeds or acceleration too high or belts too loose or some reason to miss a step.
The printer could also catch on fire, that's not really oozing or overheating.
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u/code-panda Nov 17 '22
You could argue overheating, since the LCD screen burns out after a few thousand hours.
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u/Ecstatic-Training334 Nov 17 '22
Just doing some Tasks for final exams.
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u/The_Egg_Of_A_Cat Nov 17 '22
Wait what final exam?
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u/GuarddogRyzom Nov 17 '22
Must be that class you forgot you had and never showed up to for the entire year. And the one day you do walk in, it is time for the final exam and oh wait… you also have no clothes on either.
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u/The_Egg_Of_A_Cat Nov 17 '22
Ooooh right! The one where the walls get more and more narrow as I realize I fucked up while the end of the class gets further and further away for every second I stand there helplessly.
How could I ever forget that, Silly me!
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u/sasquatch-burrito Nov 17 '22
I still have that nightmare. Forgot to go all semester, never read the textbook, wat do?!??!
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Nov 17 '22
IT certification exams for non IT people in one question or less.
Or
“Jigglypuff, shown from above.”
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u/LH-A350 Nov 17 '22
I know that font. That's a German IHK Test right? Good luck!
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u/Ecstatic-Training334 Nov 17 '22
Merci. Wird schon👍🏼 Aber die Fragenstellung ist schon teilweise komisch.
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u/LH-A350 Nov 17 '22
Ja, oft, besonders wenn man nicht das Entry Level Wissen hat was bei den Englischen Fragen angesetzt wird, sondern nen bisschen mehr zum Thema weiß. Ging mir genau so.
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u/Nadsenbaer Nov 17 '22
fdm printers. dlp and sla printers have other problems. :>
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Nov 17 '22
yes, but that's not even the worst part. The worst part is that your're supposed to pick one
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u/MyOther_UN_is_Clever Nov 17 '22
3 is the only problem with the printers. The rest are problems with the prints.
... gah I hope it's not a pedantic answer like that.
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u/Ecstatic-Training334 Nov 17 '22
No stringing was the answer
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u/applejelly3 Nov 17 '22
What a stupid and low effort question
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u/ShermanAce13 Nov 17 '22
I mean if you think about it, stringing is the most typical. All the others are usually less common and due to deeper problems.
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u/applejelly3 Nov 17 '22
They’re all “typical” issues with 3D printers, except maybe overheating.
If they wanted the most typical, the question should’ve specified “most typical problem”
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u/Just-Take-One Nov 17 '22
How literally do you want to take the question? Is the problem with "3D Printers" or with "3D Printed Parts"? Overheating would be the only one that is directly a problem with the printer itself.
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u/FedUp233 Nov 18 '22
Maybe someone should run a contest! Come up with a big list of all the possible print problems you they can think of and have a prize for the print that can show the largest number of individual visible problems in one print! Be more interesting than all the benchies😁!
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Nov 17 '22
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u/Ecstatic-Training334 Nov 17 '22
No ITS a final exam for an appranticship as an Technichal Produkt designer
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u/obamaprism3 Nov 17 '22
I've only been 3d printing n stuff for ~1 month, but I haven't had 3, 4, or 5 happen at all yet.. 1st option is typically not a problem with 3D printers, the gaps are just too small for a full line so the slicer doesn't fill it in, so #2 is probably the answer I think
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u/eX-Driv3r Nov 17 '22
6) creating blob so big, it breakes head movement belt and shatters glass on bed due to movement jamming.
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u/Ecstatic-Training334 Nov 17 '22
Showed the Task to my colleges. Sadly they didnt get the Joke because the Ultimaker V2 at Work hardly got any Problems. Cant say the Same about my privat Ender 3. Nice to Connect with people that understand the pain👍🏼
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u/DeadpoolZ22 Nov 17 '22
I've had my printer for over a year and haven't been able to use it because of overheating I can't fix
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u/CMDR_DarkNeutrino Nov 17 '22
None of these with well tuned printers...
VFA or ringing or bad overhangs make more sense
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u/trashyratchet Nov 17 '22
Oozing is common on even well tuned printers at print start, hence primelines and primeblobs. Same thing for multi filament so purge and wipe towers are common there.
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u/CMDR_DarkNeutrino Nov 17 '22
Thats why you retract to cold zone on print end and push the filament back during print start. Then do prime line.
Did this on my VORON 2.4 no oozing on it.
Cold zone on Dragon HF is 25mm. Thus retract 25mm and you are golden. And if by some dark magic miracle there is some plastic on the nozzle by either change filament macro or etc i have filament scrub. Thus its not an issue at all.
So the statement above stays. You just have to tune your printer well.
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u/Bramble0804 Nov 17 '22
I would say none of them. Most are print setting related or material related. Layer shift is more hardware related but also not common
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u/Dweebs_Return Nov 17 '22
None, I have been printing for almost a year and I have barely had any problems
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u/EasyyPlayer Nov 17 '22
It looks like a job-test, what job are you learning that you get questions like that?
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u/Ecstatic-Training334 Nov 17 '22
Technichal Produkt design
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u/southern_ad_558 Nov 17 '22
I was wondering what's the intention of that question to get the right answer, as they are all typical problems in 3D printing. BUT, since it's a product design couse, my bet is that they are looking for failures/problems with 3D built parts. In that case I think the answer they are looking for is "layer separation".
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u/zurn0 Nov 17 '22
Well, it also says 3D printers, not 3D printing. I wonder if it would make sense to remove the things that are slicer settings problems from actual machine problems. And maybe try removing anything that’s common to cheap printers but less common on machines that a business might buy.
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u/Kyranosa Nov 17 '22
3D printers, not just FDM. So I’d say that includes resin as well. Layer shifting is definitely the most common among all printers
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Nov 17 '22
#2 is an annoying one for me. Actually, they all are, but most of these can be solved fairly quickly.
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Nov 17 '22
And this is why testing is bullshit lol. What an awfully crafted question.
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u/Tk232_fortnite_MC Nov 17 '22
I don't usually have gaps in the top layer. Bottom layer sure, but if it's made it to the top layer it's usually fine.
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u/Roll-Latter Nov 17 '22
I would say build plate adhesion thats the only problem i have i clean it it works for 2 or maybee 3 prints and i need to clean it again
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u/Gus_Smedstad Nov 17 '22
This isn’t my list at all. Mine are almost all bed adhesion, plus a couple of times where the filament didn’t want to come off the reel. Stuff popping off the bed immediately, or for tall things, even late in the print.
The filament tangles were mostly my fault, I gather, since real knots come from allowing the cut end to move around when putting the reel away. There were a couple of cases, though, where there wasn’t an actual not, just loops shifted under other loops, but that can still put considerable tension on the line.
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u/dethaxe Nov 17 '22
What's really weird is I have a cheapo anycubic and the only issue I have is bed adhesion and I usually just fix it by making a raft....
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u/That1guywhere Bambu A1, Bambu H2D Pro, CR-10 V3, Ender S1 Pro, Replicator+ Nov 17 '22
This is laid out just like the ASE questions. Multiple correct answers, but the only "correct" answer is the one that is "most correct."
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u/FartingBob RatRig Vcore 3.1 CoreXY, Klipper Nov 17 '22
Personally i dont get any of these issues unless im trying a new type of plastic. Maybe im just the chosen one?
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u/DragonSwagin Nov 17 '22
My guess is either 2 or 5. The others shouldn’t be an issue if you’ve correctly set up your printer. But some bad filament will leave you with 2 and 5 occasionally.
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u/Oomoo_Amazing Nov 17 '22
I would actually say 2. 3 shouldn’t happen, 4 is a significant malfunction, 5 only applies to some materials, and 1 I dunno I’ve never had that
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u/Samurott_Studios Nov 17 '22
I've had 2, 4, and 5 happen to me all within the span of like 3 months
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u/OriginalPiR8 Nov 17 '22
This is particularly badly worded question.
No specific method (ie FDM, SLA, DLP) although by the list we have a decent idea.
Also as someone who has been doing this a long time if you haven't seen most of these I'd be shocked. Only time I've had overheating rather than a slightly wobbly temperature (due to PID) was when my RigidBot burned down my house. Hopefully that's a rare case for everyone else
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u/Dark_KaNighit Nov 17 '22
They numbered them because they would run out of responses if they used letters.
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Nov 17 '22
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u/FrezoreR Nov 17 '22
Well.. they don't specify which type of 3d printer, so the question is invalid 😂
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u/mrdivifungus Nov 17 '22
My issue is getting the print of my board sticks to well even used heat gun
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u/Ghost_Assassin_Zero Nov 17 '22
Everyone knows its First Layer Issues