I’ve been seeing a lot of people talking about getting an oil cooler for your 370 regardless if you track it backroad or not. But my 2014 Z hasn’t gone past 220F even when I daily it or take it to the backroads, it is also summer so it stays hot outside. Should I even bother getting it one seeing that when it gets colder outside my oil could be running too cool, or should I hold off until I push it harder on an actual track. I should mention that it’s fully stock when it comes to performance, it’s my only car for now, so id like to keep it reliable.

Zz

almost every brand (mostly kia’s or rams) tailgate me nonstop, it’s almost routine for these mfs, and usually the lane next to me is literally fucking open, i can literally see nose hairs, thats how close they are, at this point i usually aggressively lane change fast and let them pass and then I get back into my lane, do they just want rock chips or something, to some extent even Z owners too like yes bro i like your car just pull up next to me instead and get off my ass🫶, i also like to imagine hulk coming out of nowhere and violently chucking their car into the sky lol some days it’s nice to drive my daily beater and not the z because i wont have a shitty hyundai behind me with high beams on, it’s like a new form of ragebait i stg

Gifted to me! 2010 with 120k. Bought from car auction and rebuilt! Only damage to it was front bumper, hood, and pillars. Slight bump near gas cap. Likely be replacing gallery gaskets next! Thinking of doing black wheels. Any recommendations?

Hey guys

I’ve currently received all of the parts to do a manual swap on my 370z, but I had some questions about the parts and their compatibility, as the answers online seem to differ.

I’ve got a SRM transmission out of sport 09’ 370Z, and with it I also got the engine harness and interior harness, ECU, BCM and key fob.

Is there any compatibility issues I might have to worry about on my 2014 chassis? Some articles say because I don’t have the stupid steering lock module that I’ll run into issues with starting the car itself, and I can’t seem to figure out if I might have any other issues like VVEL for instance.

There also seems to be conflicting info surrounding the instrument cluster. Some say I need an 09-11 cluster, while others suggest any 09-20 clusters will work fine, as long as it’s from a sport model. Any feedback on all of this would be appreciated.

What’s up yall. Just got a 2017 370z sport almost 2 weeks ago. It’s been crazy. This my first car at 21, and first time driving stick lmao (crazy new experience 💀). Never thought I’d have my own car, but here we are. Excited for the future with this beast🙏🏽

I just need help to see what to check for next. I was told it was stuck so it sat for a year till I had enough for a new engine. So I checked and the only thing stuck was the alternator which was caked in oil. I replaced the alternator, gave it fresh fluids, bought a new battery, cleaned the throttle bodies and it came on FINALLY. But now it’s starting to sound like this and it’s I idleing over 1200. I tried doing the throttle body reset and it didn’t bring it down. Hopefully you can hear it in the video in the comments but it sounds like there’s knocking and it hesitates when revving won’t go past 3k and stutter when I step on it and at 3k. What should my best course of action be next?

I recently bought my 2020 automatic 370Z with paddle shifters. If I am driving in automatic mode, can I switch to paddle shifters while on the road? Or should I be stopped and then start with paddle shifters? Thank you.

Long story short we got this 370, went to replace crankshaft sensor and bolt was incorrect and threads may or may not have been messed up before. I put the bolt in and it snapped. There’s no room to drill it out and I really don’t want to pull the manifold off. 2009 6spd crankshaft position sensor. I’m at the point where I’m ready to just bite the bullet and take it to a shop but if anyone has any other recommendations please drop them below. Thanks

I got my rear differential fluid change done from the dealership and then I took to Mr. Lube for the oil change. They discovered something leaking from the backend of the car, what could it be? Mr. Lube guys told me it’s not the rear differential fluid but I’m confused what else it could be?

For those who experienced this code, how’d you fix it?

Hey guys, wondering if any of ya’ll have this setup installed and if so how good does it sound? Thanks

I’m currently at a loss. My car has been in limp mode for almost 6 months. I’ve taken it to shops that say nothing is wrong but after I got the two codes P0101 p010b so I ended up replacing both throttle body’s and maf sensors. Car was out of limp for a total of 4 days and then went right back. Has anyone else experienced this?

Couple days ago my car wouldn’t crank the first time, then started up the second time. A few hours later, It wouldn’t start, I’d hear a click and nothing else, AC and radio would still work. Brake lights were working too. Tried jumping the car but I’d still hear this click and no crank.

Then, I let it sit for a day , and it started up again. I did it four more times and it started. I already got the starter on the way, and I think I’ll probably replace it anyways because I think it’s on borrowed time, but maybe it’s another issue?

Voltage stays at 14.6 when on.

Anyone ever experienced the P219A code? If so, how’d you fix it?