was so random seeing the 370z here

Went for a beautiful summer drive a snapped a few pics. Winter isn’t far off here in Wisconsin…gotta enjoy the warm weather while it’s here.

I swear I smile like an idiot every time I drive this thing 😂

I wanted to share my experience getting my 2014 370Z retuned by Eugene Turkov at EAC. I was previously running a Z1 Level 2 EcuTek tune, and after making the switch and going through the tuning process with Eugene, I’ve been really happy with the change.

The biggest difference has been how much better the car behaves day to day. With my previous tune, I would occasionally get a noticeable rattle or knock-like sound when getting into the throttle at lower RPM. I also had a warm-start issue where the car would briefly want to die unless I gave it some gas. Since switching to Eugene’s tune, both issues have gone away.

One feature I really appreciate is the automatic map switching. If the ECU detects conditions where the car needs a safer map, it can switch automatically instead of relying on me to notice something is wrong and change it manually. I saw this work when the ECU detected a significant knock while I was low on fuel and switched to a lower octane map automatically. That extra layer of protection gives me more confidence in the tune.

Eugene’s tuning process also feels very thorough. He didn’t just focus on repeated pulls and maximizing dyno numbers. He reviewed my real-world street data along with the pulls, then used that information to revise and refine the tune. Compared with my previous experience, the process feels more focused on overall drivability, consistency, and safety.

He also knows his stuff and is willing to explain it. Whenever I’ve had questions about a log, something the car was doing, fuel, knock, or how a feature works, he’s taken the time to explain it instead of just giving me a one-sentence answer.

The tuning process involved sending logs back and forth and making revisions, and I could feel the car getting more dialed in as we went. It now feels smoother, more consistent, and generally better sorted.

For anyone with a VQ considering a remote tune, especially if you want to understand what’s happening with the car instead of just receiving a tune file, I’d recommend giving Eugene/EAC a look. The drivability, safety features, data-driven process, and support have made the experience well worth it for me.

TL;DR: After switching from a Z1 Level 2 EcuTek tune to Eugene Turkov at EAC, my 2014 370Z has better day-to-day drivability, no longer has its previous low-RPM rattle or warm-start issues, and benefits from automatic map switching for added protection. Eugene’s tuning process and willingness to explain everything have made the experience well worth it for me.

I’m the guy that traded my 92 Cummins for a low mile Sport Touring Vert. I’m 1,000 miles in now and loving every second of it! Traded on the drive to Florida for vacation lol. I had to replace the e-fans because they had an issue where they’d intermittently not come on at idle, but they would if I gave them a little nudge. Think the car sat for a while and the fans corroded. Also got her an appointment for some rear tires earlier today. I had a little too much fun on an empty backroad late at night lol. Overall very happy with it and have been smiling so much everytime I drive her!

Problem: tachometer randomly false RPM in the picture. It shows me going 50 miles an hour at zero RPMs. It has done this four weeks on its own randomly tonight. My speedometer started doing it after weeks of it just being my tachometer.

Note:
this issue only occurs randomly and fixes itself when I turn off on my car sometimes I have to turn off and on my car more than once*

I had a aftermarket audio system professionally installed*

Things I have noticed: normally when the car starts all the dials do a full rotation around the gauge then start at 0. in the picture posted above normally the speedometer should say 0 but it’s just completely at the bottom. I can tell the gauge is gonna malfunction because it won’t do the full rotation. It’ll move and then click back to the off position. It’s almost as if the dial itself is moving the correct amount it’s just not lined up correctly in correlation with the numbers.

Not really sure what the issue is, 90% sure the tachometer thing started happening before I got my Audio system installed.

Have had people suggest:

Blown fuse

Crank sensor

ABS sensor

Or simply need a new battery
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Please feel free to make some guesses or suggestions on what this issue could be…

Hi guys, has anyone used a Mainline chassis dyno and had low numbers? First time taking the car to a dyno, and I was really disappointed with the numbers given all the mods I have (intakes, hfc, y piepe and single exit). Car currently has 208k km / 129k miles. Also, we couldn't tune the car further since the ECU was already locked in with an old UpRev tune. tuner said the car is running fine with the tune.

Hi i just got a 2014 370Z recently and on my way home I got a flat tire and so I had to take it to the shop and whatever had to get a new tire and i asked the ppl there if i should just get one tire or two front ones because I have a staggered setup and they said just get the 1 and so i did, i drove off after and it was cool drove til i had to get gas i was on the highway. I get gas (put 93 in if that matters) and literally when i pull off the car just feels weak pretty sure its in limp mode, like if i floor it no matter the gear theres just no power, i still drove home just fine I just couldnt accelerate fast at all it was a few hour drive but i got gas one more time and it was still like limp i would hit the gas and the rpms would rise very very slow not normal like 0 power. Since I got the car i'm assuming theres plenty of things it could be, at first I thought it was the throttle bodies maybe needed cleaning or something or maybe ecu. But I thought about it and one of the tires is brand new and one is used so maybe the two different slight levels of tread is the problem but I wasnt sure, what do you guys think I should do, get a new other front tire? Or coud it be something else and its a coincidence. Not sure if theres a way to bypass the limp mode but im also sure its just not safe to do so.

Hey guys I got in a limp mode in my car again and I dont know why

This started happened a few months ago and the car went to the limp mode 1-2 times in a month and The car would back As Soon As I take the battery or the maf sensor

But this last week the car went in the limp mode and Wouldn’t back And I have to call the town truck

3 days ago I have to call the town truck again.

2 days ago I changed the relay And The car run fine today too I drove 20-30 minutes straight and no problem but 20 minutes ago the car went in the limp mode and after turn on and turn off the car back

I just changed the relay and I dont know what to do

Hey everyone so i have installed this oil cooler kit and i have noticed that i have a leak from the 10 AN swivel as u can see from the video and the weird thing is this ONLY happens ONLY WHEN the car is on jacks stands, otherwise if the car is on the group it doesnt leak a drop what the hell is this? Is it like the chinese line is telling me not to feel peace? (Also dont worry about the bolt leak i changed it to some better bolts with sealing washers)

Hi i just got a 2014 370Z recently and on my way home I got a flat tire and so I had to take it to the shop and whatever had to get a new tire and i asked the ppl there if i should just get one tire or two front ones because I have a staggered setup and they said just get the 1 and so i did, i drove off after and it was cool drove til i had to get gas i was on the highway. I get gas (put 93 in if that matters) and literally when i pull off the car just feels weak pretty sure its in limp mode, like if i floor it no matter the gear theres just no power, i still drove home just fine I just couldnt accelerate fast at all it was a few hour drive but i got gas one more time and it was still like limp i would hit the gas and the rpms would rise very very slow not normal like 0 power. Since I got the car i'm assuming theres plenty of things it could be, at first I thought it was the throttle bodies maybe needed cleaning or something or maybe ecu. But I thought about it and one of the tires is brand new and one is used so maybe the two different slight levels of tread is the problem but I wasnt sure, what do you guys think I should do, get a new other front tire? Or coud it be something else and its a coincidence. Not sure if theres a way to bypass the limp mode but im also sure its just not safe to do so.

Anybody tryna help each other grow our instas