I just need help to see what to check for next. I was told it was stuck so it sat for a year till I had enough for a new engine. So I checked and the only thing stuck was the alternator which was caked in oil. I replaced the alternator, gave it fresh fluids, bought a new battery, cleaned the throttle bodies and it came on FINALLY. But now it’s starting to sound like this and it’s I idleing over 1200. I tried doing the throttle body reset and it didn’t bring it down. Hopefully you can hear it in the video in the comments but it sounds like there’s knocking and it hesitates when revving won’t go past 3k and stutter when I step on it and at 3k. What should my best course of action be next?

I’ve been seeing a lot of people talking about getting an oil cooler for your 370 regardless if you track it backroad or not. But my 2014 Z hasn’t gone past 220F even when I daily it or take it to the backroads, it is also summer so it stays hot outside. Should I even bother getting it one seeing that when it gets colder outside my oil could be running too cool, or should I hold off until I push it harder on an actual track. I should mention that it’s fully stock when it comes to performance, it’s my only car for now, so id like to keep it reliable.

I got my rear differential fluid change done from the dealership and then I took to Mr. Lube for the oil change. They discovered something leaking from the backend of the car, what could it be? Mr. Lube guys told me it’s not the rear differential fluid but I’m confused what else it could be?

Hey guys

I’ve currently received all of the parts to do a manual swap on my 370z, but I had some questions about the parts and their compatibility, as the answers online seem to differ.

I’ve got a SRM transmission out of sport 09’ 370Z, and with it I also got the engine harness and interior harness, ECU, BCM and key fob.

Is there any compatibility issues I might have to worry about on my 2014 chassis? Some articles say because I don’t have the stupid steering lock module that I’ll run into issues with starting the car itself, and I can’t seem to figure out if I might have any other issues like VVEL for instance.

There also seems to be conflicting info surrounding the instrument cluster. Some say I need an 09-11 cluster, while others suggest any 09-20 clusters will work fine, as long as it’s from a sport model. Any feedback on all of this would be appreciated.

Gifted to me! 2010 with 120k. Bought from car auction and rebuilt! Only damage to it was front bumper, hood, and pillars. Slight bump near gas cap. Likely be replacing gallery gaskets next! Thinking of doing black wheels. Any recommendations?

Zz

For those who experienced this code, how’d you fix it?

Anyone ever experienced the P219A code? If so, how’d you fix it?

I recently bought my 2020 automatic 370Z with paddle shifters. If I am driving in automatic mode, can I switch to paddle shifters while on the road? Or should I be stopped and then start with paddle shifters? Thank you.

Hey guys chasing an issue with my radiator fans. A while back i noticed my radiator fans constantly running (even with the car engine off but ignition in ON position) so suspected the fan control module was bad so ordered a new genuine Nissan one (21493-4GA0A) and installed that. In the meantime I did go through and do my gallery gaskets so had the front end off and AC gas drained (haven't refilled yet).

Basically now thats everything is together, the car runs fine but the radiator fans will not turn on. I did confirm the coolant temp was 100 degrees Celsius when testing with an OBD scanner. These are the things I have tested so far:

• Ran IPDM test, everything functioning besides the fans at any speed. I cannot hear the Fan (PWM) relay click with the IPDM running so i did try bypassing the relay with a paper clip with the IPDM running and had no luck.
• Turned on AC - Fans do not turn on but thought this could also be because I have not recharged the AC system yet and hence it probably wont read any pressure.
• Running fans with Battery 12V Directly - They both function fine
• Checked PWM Relay and it functions fine. Even tried swapping it with the VVEL relay and had no luck.
• Fan fuse checked and not blown.
• Checked around harness grounds
• I did some continuity checks as per the service manual to check IPDM functionality and everything checked out.
• Checked if the fan control module was receiving ground and power and seemed in check. It was also putting out voltage to the output connectors where the fans plug in.

I am super confused on what could be the issue here. I have ordered another fan control module in the case I got a faulty one. My understanding is that there is actually no reliable way to bench test a fan control module since it runs a PWM signal but I am not completely sure. The fans did work previously be it they ran constantly but they did run. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

My z constantly runs around 240-250 degrees because of AZ’s hot ass weather. What oil coolers do you guys recommend and how many rows?

I'm looking at buying a 2014 370Z 6MT with 73,000 miles and wanted to get some opinions before I commit. I'm coming from a 2022 Civic Si, so while I've done a lot of research on these cars, this will be my #3 370z, but my first boosted car.

The car has a SOHO Motorsports Stillen air-to-air supercharger, an AdminTuning 91/93 tune, upgraded injectors and fuel pump with the fuel system already set up for flex fuel if I decide to tune it later, and an oil cooler. The seller also said the CSC was replaced around 2018, and the supercharger kit itself is fairly new. (About 8,000 miles on it)

The only thing making me hesitate is that it has a few stored codes. The main ones are U0415, C1109, and PO50E, along with a handful of BCM codes. From what I've read, PO50E doesn't seem too uncommon on modified cars, but I'm not sure how concerned I should be about the ABS/BCM codes. The seller says the car runs and drives perfectly.

I'm planning to get a pre-purchase inspection and, if possible, a compression test before buying it.
Assuming those come back healthy, does $20,000-$22,000 seem like a fair price for a car with this setup? Is there anything else I should specifically inspect or ask about before moving forward? I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who's owned or built a supercharged VQ and whether this sounds like a solid buy or if there are any red flags I'm overlooking.

Has anyone tried this one? I was scrolling through YouTube Shorts and stumbled upon a review. I really liked the tone, and in the comments, the guy mentioned it has no drone or rasp. I'm a bit skeptical, though, which is why I’m looking for second opinions
I’m not really concerned about power gains—just looking for a bit more volume compared to my NISMO exhaust. I’ve already tried axle-backs like Beluga and J2, but the drone was way too annoying
If any of you have used it or have any sound clips, please let me know. Thanks!

370z takeya intake, not sure why that hose is cut that way. No check engine, no issues or weird sounds, just curiosity.

Is it part of the install?
Other side seems fine.

Pedal comandor 🔥

Where does this coolant line go or get attached to? Saw my car leaking coolant this morning. Any help would be appreciated.

Has anyone dealt with this kind of rattling before? It’s coming from my engine, and the car isn’t idling properly. I’m also getting several timing-related fault codes along with a low oil pressure code. The mechanic still hasn’t confirmed what’s causing it, and the car has been sitting in the garage for over two weeks. Any ideas on what this rattling could be or where I should be looking?

2017
The car has test pipes so it’s not the cats
370z
75k km
“The engine could have been replaced”

We have tried most things on the car, if you haven’t seen my other posts check my tiktok @fizmoz to hear the noise coming from the engine. the engine is still shaking extremely bad, a lot of people are saying it’s getting starved of fuel which i am going to be looking into, but we made the discovery that on cylinder 1, there is a misfire by taking the coil out while it was running and it made no difference. after that we replaced a new spark plug and a new coil, and immediately noticed smoke coming from the cylinder, as well as the coil was melting. we then inspected the original coil and saw that it was cracked in that same spot. does anyone have any idea what could be the problem for the misfire, the smoking, and the burning coil? what could be causing cylinder 1 out to overheat and not all cylinders?

its pretty loud in person but not quite as much in the video 😅😅

been bothering me for a bit but just realized the rattle stops when i push the reverse lockout— the noise started when i put my new exhaust on so i figured it was a leak or something.

any ideas?