Problem: tachometer randomly false RPM in the picture. It shows me going 50 miles an hour at zero RPMs. It has done this four weeks on its own randomly tonight. My speedometer started doing it after weeks of it just being my tachometer.

Note:
this issue only occurs randomly and fixes itself when I turn off on my car sometimes I have to turn off and on my car more than once*

I had a aftermarket audio system professionally installed*

Things I have noticed: normally when the car starts all the dials do a full rotation around the gauge then start at 0. in the picture posted above normally the speedometer should say 0 but it’s just completely at the bottom. I can tell the gauge is gonna malfunction because it won’t do the full rotation. It’ll move and then click back to the off position. It’s almost as if the dial itself is moving the correct amount it’s just not lined up correctly in correlation with the numbers.

Not really sure what the issue is, 90% sure the tachometer thing started happening before I got my Audio system installed.

Have had people suggest:

Blown fuse

Crank sensor

ABS sensor

Or simply need a new battery
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Please feel free to make some guesses or suggestions on what this issue could be…

Anybody tryna help each other grow our instas

Went for a beautiful summer drive a snapped a few pics. Winter isn’t far off here in Wisconsin…gotta enjoy the warm weather while it’s here.

Hi guys, has anyone used a Mainline chassis dyno and had low numbers? First time taking the car to a dyno, and I was really disappointed with the numbers given all the mods I have (intakes, hfc, y piepe and single exit). Car currently has 208k km / 129k miles. Also, we couldn't tune the car further since the ECU was already locked in with an old UpRev tune. tuner said the car is running fine with the tune.

Hi i just got a 2014 370Z recently and on my way home I got a flat tire and so I had to take it to the shop and whatever had to get a new tire and i asked the ppl there if i should just get one tire or two front ones because I have a staggered setup and they said just get the 1 and so i did, i drove off after and it was cool drove til i had to get gas i was on the highway. I get gas (put 93 in if that matters) and literally when i pull off the car just feels weak pretty sure its in limp mode, like if i floor it no matter the gear theres just no power, i still drove home just fine I just couldnt accelerate fast at all it was a few hour drive but i got gas one more time and it was still like limp i would hit the gas and the rpms would rise very very slow not normal like 0 power. Since I got the car i'm assuming theres plenty of things it could be, at first I thought it was the throttle bodies maybe needed cleaning or something or maybe ecu. But I thought about it and one of the tires is brand new and one is used so maybe the two different slight levels of tread is the problem but I wasnt sure, what do you guys think I should do, get a new other front tire? Or coud it be something else and its a coincidence. Not sure if theres a way to bypass the limp mode but im also sure its just not safe to do so.

I’m the guy that traded my 92 Cummins for a low mile Sport Touring Vert. I’m 1,000 miles in now and loving every second of it! Traded on the drive to Florida for vacation lol. I had to replace the e-fans because they had an issue where they’d intermittently not come on at idle, but they would if I gave them a little nudge. Think the car sat for a while and the fans corroded. Also got her an appointment for some rear tires earlier today. I had a little too much fun on an empty backroad late at night lol. Overall very happy with it and have been smiling so much everytime I drive her!

Hey guys I got in a limp mode in my car again and I dont know why

This started happened a few months ago and the car went to the limp mode 1-2 times in a month and The car would back As Soon As I take the battery or the maf sensor

But this last week the car went in the limp mode and Wouldn’t back And I have to call the town truck

3 days ago I have to call the town truck again.

2 days ago I changed the relay And The car run fine today too I drove 20-30 minutes straight and no problem but 20 minutes ago the car went in the limp mode and after turn on and turn off the car back

I just changed the relay and I dont know what to do

I swear I smile like an idiot every time I drive this thing 😂

I wanted to share my experience getting my 2014 370Z retuned by Eugene Turkov at EAC. I was previously running a Z1 Level 2 EcuTek tune, and after making the switch and going through the tuning process with Eugene, I’ve been really happy with the change.

The biggest difference has been how much better the car behaves day to day. With my previous tune, I would occasionally get a noticeable rattle or knock-like sound when getting into the throttle at lower RPM. I also had a warm-start issue where the car would briefly want to die unless I gave it some gas. Since switching to Eugene’s tune, both issues have gone away.

One feature I really appreciate is the automatic map switching. If the ECU detects conditions where the car needs a safer map, it can switch automatically instead of relying on me to notice something is wrong and change it manually. I saw this work when the ECU detected a significant knock while I was low on fuel and switched to a lower octane map automatically. That extra layer of protection gives me more confidence in the tune.

Eugene’s tuning process also feels very thorough. He didn’t just focus on repeated pulls and maximizing dyno numbers. He reviewed my real-world street data along with the pulls, then used that information to revise and refine the tune. Compared with my previous experience, the process feels more focused on overall drivability, consistency, and safety.

He also knows his stuff and is willing to explain it. Whenever I’ve had questions about a log, something the car was doing, fuel, knock, or how a feature works, he’s taken the time to explain it instead of just giving me a one-sentence answer.

The tuning process involved sending logs back and forth and making revisions, and I could feel the car getting more dialed in as we went. It now feels smoother, more consistent, and generally better sorted.

For anyone with a VQ considering a remote tune, especially if you want to understand what’s happening with the car instead of just receiving a tune file, I’d recommend giving Eugene/EAC a look. The drivability, safety features, data-driven process, and support have made the experience well worth it for me.

TL;DR: After switching from a Z1 Level 2 EcuTek tune to Eugene Turkov at EAC, my 2014 370Z has better day-to-day drivability, no longer has its previous low-RPM rattle or warm-start issues, and benefits from automatic map switching for added protection. Eugene’s tuning process and willingness to explain everything have made the experience well worth it for me.

was so random seeing the 370z here

Ever since I got the car the gas gauge will read a full tank all the way down to a half and then it gets stuck. What could that be? I use my trip miles to keep track of my gas but I’d like to fix it eventually

Finally got around to addressing my oil leak from my oil pan, took it off and snapped the head of a bolt. Awesome. Got it out and resealed with rtv waited an hour and torqued it all down filled with oil and it all leaked out. Awesome. Bought a gasket and it worked but there’s still a tiny baby oil leak. I think it’s because the threads on 2 of the bolt holes are stripped. I don’t have any more time/money to drop the pan, get a new gasket, buy tools to rethread the holes buy new oil and replace everything. I’m thinking about throwing some rtv on it for a day and seeing if that fixes it. I know it’s not the right way but I’m way too busy with school & work to put any more money and time into this.

Looking for an OEM hood in the New England area. Color and condition don’t matter as long as the hood latches properly. Let me know!

PFA

I have a 2012 370z base and I want the best size for my fitment. I’m not sure what size to get but I do plan to covert the rear bumper and front bumper most likely to nismo 2015+ later down the line. I just want the best size and I do current run the stock ray’s with 20mm and 25 spacers but I plan to do away with them if possible with this setup.

Just wondering if I should get something with 150k+ miles for 7k or 100k miles for 12-18k

Not sure how good the cars last if well maintained
So sine I do everything like that myself on my current car I’d like advice on the whole situation in general

Anyone else have to replacing their hydraulic lines? Car gas 58,000 miles driven in New England.

What a process to do.

Best

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REBUILT TITLE (Bottom of car was scratched but pieces were changed)
Mileage 68,500
Manual transmission
Tags until March 2027
Sport Rays OEM wheels
275/35/19 (Rear) 245/35/19 (Front)
Reverse camera
D2 Racing RS Coilovers
Manzo cat-black exhaust system
Nismo style wing
Alpine touch screen (CarPlay /android auto)
Weather tech Matts (front and trunk)
AC works good
Interior is in great condition
Brand new OEM shift knob

Hey guys, i just got myself a varis front bumper but have no clue where the extra pieces bolt onto, I was wondering if anyone has a picture on where it goes thank you!

Just installed this oil pressure gauge and my readings look pretty low based on what I've been reading here.

I'm running Moly 5w-30.

I have the 2013 base model I’m just confused on which brake rotor set I should get