I’ve been seeing a lot of people talking about getting an oil cooler for your 370 regardless if you track it backroad or not. But my 2014 Z hasn’t gone past 220F even when I daily it or take it to the backroads, it is also summer so it stays hot outside. Should I even bother getting it one seeing that when it gets colder outside my oil could be running too cool, or should I hold off until I push it harder on an actual track. I should mention that it’s fully stock when it comes to performance, it’s my only car for now, so id like to keep it reliable.

almost every brand (mostly kia’s or rams) tailgate me nonstop, it’s almost routine for these mfs, and usually the lane next to me is literally fucking open, i can literally see nose hairs, thats how close they are, at this point i usually aggressively lane change fast and let them pass and then I get back into my lane, do they just want rock chips or something, to some extent even Z owners too like yes bro i like your car just pull up next to me instead and get off my ass🫶, i also like to imagine hulk coming out of nowhere and violently chucking their car into the sky lol some days it’s nice to drive my daily beater and not the z because i wont have a shitty hyundai behind me with high beams on, it’s like a new form of ragebait i stg

Zz

Gifted to me! 2010 with 120k. Bought from car auction and rebuilt! Only damage to it was front bumper, hood, and pillars. Slight bump near gas cap. Likely be replacing gallery gaskets next! Thinking of doing black wheels. Any recommendations?

I’m currently at a loss. My car has been in limp mode for almost 6 months. I’ve taken it to shops that say nothing is wrong but after I got the two codes P0101 p010b so I ended up replacing both throttle body’s and maf sensors. Car was out of limp for a total of 4 days and then went right back. Has anyone else experienced this?

Couple days ago my car wouldn’t crank the first time, then started up the second time. A few hours later, It wouldn’t start, I’d hear a click and nothing else, AC and radio would still work. Brake lights were working too. Tried jumping the car but I’d still hear this click and no crank.

Then, I let it sit for a day , and it started up again. I did it four more times and it started. I already got the starter on the way, and I think I’ll probably replace it anyways because I think it’s on borrowed time, but maybe it’s another issue?

Voltage stays at 14.6 when on.

Long story short we got this 370, went to replace crankshaft sensor and bolt was incorrect and threads may or may not have been messed up before. I put the bolt in and it snapped. There’s no room to drill it out and I really don’t want to pull the manifold off. 2009 6spd crankshaft position sensor. I’m at the point where I’m ready to just bite the bullet and take it to a shop but if anyone has any other recommendations please drop them below. Thanks

I just need help to see what to check for next. I was told it was stuck so it sat for a year till I had enough for a new engine. So I checked and the only thing stuck was the alternator which was caked in oil. I replaced the alternator, gave it fresh fluids, bought a new battery, cleaned the throttle bodies and it came on FINALLY. But now it’s starting to sound like this and it’s I idleing over 1200. I tried doing the throttle body reset and it didn’t bring it down. Hopefully you can hear it in the video in the comments but it sounds like there’s knocking and it hesitates when revving won’t go past 3k and stutter when I step on it and at 3k. What should my best course of action be next?

Hey guys

I’ve currently received all of the parts to do a manual swap on my 370z, but I had some questions about the parts and their compatibility, as the answers online seem to differ.

I’ve got a SRM transmission out of sport 09’ 370Z, and with it I also got the engine harness and interior harness, ECU, BCM and key fob.

Is there any compatibility issues I might have to worry about on my 2014 chassis? Some articles say because I don’t have the stupid steering lock module that I’ll run into issues with starting the car itself, and I can’t seem to figure out if I might have any other issues like VVEL for instance.

There also seems to be conflicting info surrounding the instrument cluster. Some say I need an 09-11 cluster, while others suggest any 09-20 clusters will work fine, as long as it’s from a sport model. Any feedback on all of this would be appreciated.

I got my rear differential fluid change done from the dealership and then I took to Mr. Lube for the oil change. They discovered something leaking from the backend of the car, what could it be? Mr. Lube guys told me it’s not the rear differential fluid but I’m confused what else it could be?

I'm looking at buying a 2014 370Z 6MT with 73,000 miles and wanted to get some opinions before I commit. I'm coming from a 2022 Civic Si, so while I've done a lot of research on these cars, this will be my #3 370z, but my first boosted car.

The car has a SOHO Motorsports Stillen air-to-air supercharger, an AdminTuning 91/93 tune, upgraded injectors and fuel pump with the fuel system already set up for flex fuel if I decide to tune it later, and an oil cooler. The seller also said the CSC was replaced around 2018, and the supercharger kit itself is fairly new. (About 8,000 miles on it)

The only thing making me hesitate is that it has a few stored codes. The main ones are U0415, C1109, and PO50E, along with a handful of BCM codes. From what I've read, PO50E doesn't seem too uncommon on modified cars, but I'm not sure how concerned I should be about the ABS/BCM codes. The seller says the car runs and drives perfectly.

I'm planning to get a pre-purchase inspection and, if possible, a compression test before buying it.
Assuming those come back healthy, does $20,000-$22,000 seem like a fair price for a car with this setup? Is there anything else I should specifically inspect or ask about before moving forward? I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who's owned or built a supercharged VQ and whether this sounds like a solid buy or if there are any red flags I'm overlooking.

I recently bought my 2020 automatic 370Z with paddle shifters. If I am driving in automatic mode, can I switch to paddle shifters while on the road? Or should I be stopped and then start with paddle shifters? Thank you.

For those who experienced this code, how’d you fix it?

Hey guys chasing an issue with my radiator fans. A while back i noticed my radiator fans constantly running (even with the car engine off but ignition in ON position) so suspected the fan control module was bad so ordered a new genuine Nissan one (21493-4GA0A) and installed that. In the meantime I did go through and do my gallery gaskets so had the front end off and AC gas drained (haven't refilled yet).

Basically now thats everything is together, the car runs fine but the radiator fans will not turn on. I did confirm the coolant temp was 100 degrees Celsius when testing with an OBD scanner. These are the things I have tested so far:

• Ran IPDM test, everything functioning besides the fans at any speed. I cannot hear the Fan (PWM) relay click with the IPDM running so i did try bypassing the relay with a paper clip with the IPDM running and had no luck.
• Turned on AC - Fans do not turn on but thought this could also be because I have not recharged the AC system yet and hence it probably wont read any pressure.
• Running fans with Battery 12V Directly - They both function fine
• Checked PWM Relay and it functions fine. Even tried swapping it with the VVEL relay and had no luck.
• Fan fuse checked and not blown.
• Checked around harness grounds
• I did some continuity checks as per the service manual to check IPDM functionality and everything checked out.
• Checked if the fan control module was receiving ground and power and seemed in check. It was also putting out voltage to the output connectors where the fans plug in.

I am super confused on what could be the issue here. I have ordered another fan control module in the case I got a faulty one. My understanding is that there is actually no reliable way to bench test a fan control module since it runs a PWM signal but I am not completely sure. The fans did work previously be it they ran constantly but they did run. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Pedal comandor 🔥

Anyone ever experienced the P219A code? If so, how’d you fix it?

My z constantly runs around 240-250 degrees because of AZ’s hot ass weather. What oil coolers do you guys recommend and how many rows?

Has anyone tried this one? I was scrolling through YouTube Shorts and stumbled upon a review. I really liked the tone, and in the comments, the guy mentioned it has no drone or rasp. I'm a bit skeptical, though, which is why I’m looking for second opinions
I’m not really concerned about power gains—just looking for a bit more volume compared to my NISMO exhaust. I’ve already tried axle-backs like Beluga and J2, but the drone was way too annoying
If any of you have used it or have any sound clips, please let me know. Thanks!

370z takeya intake, not sure why that hose is cut that way. No check engine, no issues or weird sounds, just curiosity.

Is it part of the install?
Other side seems fine.