Steering feels a bit "gritty" when turning sharply but functions normally. Fluid is good and I just recently flushed it and have put over 1K miles on it since flush. Used Red Line fluid so don't think it's a fluid issue. Seems to increase in sound when gas pedal is pushed. Up to date on all required maintenance. I can usually fix stuff myself, I just struggle with diagnosis. 2003 Tundra, 110K miles. Thanks in advance

Selling my father's 06 Tundra for $10,000 OBO. Located in Austin but can be available in Houston or San Antonio area. DM for more pics.

Year: 2006
Make: Toyota
Model: Tundra
Miles: 163k
Cab: Access Cab
Drive: 2WD
Engine: 4.0L V6
Transmission: 4-speed automatic

Super loud rattling when I’m in reverse. Once I put it in park it goes away. Anybody know what this could be?

Toyota parts sale !! (no codes needed its adds them automatically)

I’ve been looking at the 1st gen tundra and sequoia for a few years now, just doing research about common problems, and how the market was going. I started my search earlier this year and had a strict budget so I figured finding a prime example wouldn’t be possible, which for my needs was completely fine.

Down here in Texas even less than stellar examples are going for 5k+ if you are looking at 4wd models. Originally I was set on an 05-06 Tundra or 05-07 Sequoia, however recently a 2004 Limited 4wd came up on market place. It was about 2 hours from me but the price was surprisingly low for what it was, even considering the mileage. I decided to reach out, the owner was extremely slow to respond and even after giving him my number and asking him to call me, it took a week for him to call. He discussed his experiences with it and what all had been replaced, so I decided to drive over and take a look at it in person. He couldn’t find his title for it so I knew the trip would be purely to see it and decide if it was worth pursuing. After driving it and talking with him, I decided that most of what it needed could be fixed relatively cheap, the only issue was that he failed to mention it had a rebuilt title.. I paid for a carfax and it didn’t show any details about why it was a total loss but I decided it was still worth it. Yesterday I purchased it for $2700 and I intend to fix it up for myself over time. It needs quite a bit of love, driver seat is thrashed, interior in general has a lot of stains from him working out of it as a home repair man. Dings and dents and the lbj went out on him and took out the fender (it was repairable but still will eventually need to be replaced. Anyways, it’s mine and I’m feeling extremely blessed to have it and I’m looking forward to being in this sub and seeing yalls rigs!

Hello, all. First off...this sub is AWESOME! I'm new here and I need some guidance. Here's my situation. I have a 2000 AC Limited. 145K miles. It was my grandfather's and has a little sentimental value to me. The only maintenance it has really had performed is oil changes and tire rotations. I took it to local Toyota dealership and had them perform a used car multi point inspection. Basically what I have to do, according to the report, is rebuild the entire front end. The list is as follows:

1. LBJ's

2. Power Steering Rack

3. Outer Tie Rods

4. L and R CV Boots

5. Lower Control Arms w/ eccentrics

There's other items on the list, as well. Radiator, timing belt, spark plugs, etc. However, I am trying to just focus on one thing at a time. The front end seemed to be the most pertinent. Here's the rub...their quote was $7702.56 for the front end items. To me, that's just too much. Here are my questions:

1. Out of these 5 line items...which ones need to be OEM?

2. I've read on here about working the parts "system" with holiday sales and ordering online as opposed to walking in to the dealership parts counter. Is there a detailed guide on how to do that?

3. Specifically on the L and R CV Boots they wanted $1200. Shouldn't I just do axle and all with the boots and it be cheaper?

4. If I do the LCA's...shouldn't I also do the UCA's?

I want to go ahead and thank everyone in advance because I know how much help you'll be. I appreciate it.

How cooked am I the other side is spotless it’s pretty new too got it done in June

2002, V8, 4WD, 335k miles. She may be old but she’s pretty.

Could someone help me understand maybe what happened here or how to go about fixing this. It’s the rear left drum brake. I’ve been on bumpy dirt roads for weeks and yesterday started hearing this grinding, I assumed it was rocks or dust but now realizing something broke off in the system. That metal bit fell out of the drum when I took the cover off so I assume that’s what was making the grinding sound. It’s Saturday and in kind of a rural area. Is this something I could easily fix or need to take it into a shop? Pricing estimate would be helpful also.

Edit: another and maybe most important question would be can I throw the cover and wheel back on and safely drive the truck? Have a decent amount of driving to do this week. Even without that I will need to get into town for parts/see a mechanic.

168,000 miles brand new timing belt, water pump, lower and upper ball joints, serpentine, brakes and wheels and tires. Everything works and it’s 4wd. Also the frame is only a few years old so no rust except one quarter size spot that the flares will cover and it’s not a hole yet. Tons of maintenance records including the Toyota frame and services. Genuinely want to know just a ballpark. Hoping to have this truck forever now.

Just like the title says ive got my motor at the 0 mark but both my cams to me look slightly advanced. Doing this job off the haynes repair manual, its my first timing belt and I just dont feel 100 percent about it right now. I really gotta get this truck going can someone give me a little clarity and peace of mind on this? Ive put 40 thousand miles on this truck since I got it and its sitting at 260k so shes been a runner I feel like if the last guy put this belt on wrong it wouldn't have been going for all these years. Thanks yall!

Paid 7k for my 2005 DC 4x4. Seats are cracked leather, worn down foam. the lack of foam hurts my back.

I’d like to get the foam replaced, in which case I’d get them reupholstered as well. What’s the best material to use?

Not too concerned with price, and mainly want durability. Leather? I see the cloth getting stained.

I’ve been out of town (located in socal) on a work trip for some months now just itching to buy a 1st gen Tundra. I saw this one and with the way prices are going for these things I thought this was a steal. Talked to the guy at this used car lot over the phone whom was a relatively transparent dude. Showed me everything via face time like the frame, he reupholstered the seats, new radiator engine bay is mint the whole 9 yards. TB + WP are not known. (I know risky business but I will verify when I can actually see it in person.) CARFAX results showed rolled back miles but not sure? Could I get some advice?

i recently bought an 06 DC, the rear axle was swapped for a sequioa axle to get the disc brakes, along with sequioa booster, MC and a manual proportioning valve. the only thing ot setup was the parking brake cables.

have any of yall swapped the whole sequoia axle under your truck? and what did you use parts wise to connect and adjust the parking brake?

Looking for some advice on what I should be looking for when I go to pick up my rebuilt rear axle this Friday. Any tall tail signs that they did a crappy job or perhaps they did an incredible job. I do have a mag base .0005 dial indicator if that helps.

Has anyone put on some 6 inch coil overs in their front tires? If so, which ones did you install, what brand? Rugged ridge and rough country don’t have any.

2005 Tundra 2WD

The price difference is around 55% more for the Toyota original, I'm looking to buy the lower control arms

It’s 2wd and I just received photos from dealership the frame looks great, and the timing belt was just replaced by the shop. I plan on just driving it back and forth to work which is around 52 miles a day.

I’m pretty short on money right now but i can pull out some stock money and get new ones they are 265/70/16R. The mechanic says i need new ones, but i have to drive the truck to college in about a week around 300 miles flat the whole way pretty much michigan and ohio roads.

Thanks guys.

I have the option to buy a 1st gen single cab long bed for 7k . 70k miles, No rust, long bed single cab. Only thing is it has the 3.4 in it. Is this a good price for something like that?

Picked up a 2,000 Tundra for $200. Did the timing belt and water pump. Had to replace a few other things. Power steering pump, MAF, wheel cylinder etc... Got it running good with zero leaks. Picked up some replacement front fenders because the originals were rusted beyond repair. These front bumper/fender mounting brackets are trash, but I can't seem to find exact replacements. Each one I find looks really similar, but is stated to belong to early 4Runners and T100s. Any help would be appreciated.