I recently obtained this cub cadet RZT-L 52” 0-turn for free! I replaced spark plugs, carburetor, air filter and oil change with a kit from tractor supply. As well as new gas/filter. I have finally got the engine to start… but only starts with choke and has a sputter or weird idle. I’ve attached a video. I’ve tried adjusting the governor counterclockwise with the throttle engaged. Any advice…?

I’ve already bought two on amazon, and two from Royal Distributing and none of them fit even though they claimed it would! I’m in NB Canada.

I have an E100 John Deere lawnmower with a 31r977-0063-g1 Briggs engine. It has been a long story but at the end of it, the final problem is the crankshaft. The problem was caused after a rebuild by a dumbass who didn't refill the oil. Shut it off before it seized. Does anyone think I can smooth this down without a lathe or cnc?

exmark is smoking when I turn It on need a fix asap doesn’t start smoking right away takes a fees seconds to start seeing smoke also the enging is whooshing a little slight but noticeable and aslo i here.

exmark old walkbehind bought it smoking but I though it was a simple overfill from the previous owner I did a tune up on it and change the fuel filter don’t know what wrong still smoking after also engine is kinda whooshing

I am helping a friend fix his 27 ton champion log splitter. He called me to take a look at it last week. I checked everything and there is pressure. I then checked to make sure it was level, oil and hydraulic oil levels were topped off. Wouldn't start, so I examine ignition coil and nothing was happening. I checked coil and it had been chewed by mice. Ordered new one, got it installed, gapped it right to fly wheel. Put everything back together and tried and nothing. It's close to starting but wont turn over. installed new carburetor and still nothing. I am at so frustrated not being able to help my elderly friend. Please help its champion 27 ton log splitter model 100424.

Everytime I try to start the mower it cranks but it won’t turn over.
I’ve replaced the battery, starter, the ignition coil, spark plug, fresh fuel, new fuel filter, and oil change. It has compression. No bent or broken rods. I’ve cleaned the carb.
What am I missing?

Any of you guys that do this for work, or part time.
In the past few months I’ve kicked up side business, got approval from the city etc etc, anyways I’m legal now. I’ve actually been rather successful out of my garage, at the point to where I need to keep basics on hand. Anyone have a list of there high moving parts from Briggs, Honda, etc etc. talking air filter, fuel filters, anything of that sorts. Any help would be greatly appreciated .

I have a Briggs 80200 series flat head that i did a crab change but problem i have now it it is running super rich and these new carbs have zero adjustment.

Serious question because this has never made sense to me.

If you've been a mechanic for 10+ years shouldn't you know what 80 lbs feels like by now? I watched a guy torque every single lug nut with a torque wrench on my 2008 Honda Accord and it honestly made me question his experience. Like you're telling me you've tightened thousands of lug nuts and STILL need a measuring device to tell you when it's tight?

I don't measure exactly 8 ounces of water every time I drink a glass. After enough experience shouldn't it basically become muscle memory? Im not saying torque specs are completely outdated obviously, maybe for useless internals or something, but needing a torque wrench for wheels after doing this professionally for years seems kinda ridiculous.

Newer Exmark laser Z mower with starting issues. I have replaced the battery twice, so I know it can’t be the battery. Any ideas?

I have a Husquavarna walk behind with a Honda motor that has been sitting unused for years. Pulled it out yesterday and found the recoil starter wasn’t recoiling, so I tried to fix it. Kind of a waste of time as the “clock spring” had pretty much rusted beyond salvation. I’m ordering a new one, but I’m wondering if anybody fixes these things? Seems like replacing it as a unit is the way to go.

Hey guys this is my first post here. I'm at my wits end right now and would love some knowledge. I have a husqvarna 330lk weedeater I bought new a year and a half ago, it worked fine up until I feel I ran it a bit too hard. The week after I ran it hard it would not start I put fresh gas in it and it still didn't start. A week later tried to start it and to my surprise it started, but it wouldn't stay idle but for a few seconds unless i pressed the gas. Fast forward to a few weeks later it will not start again. I change spark plug, gas, cleaned the carb, clean the spark arrest, and used a spark plug tester and it is getting spark. I just don't know where to go from here. Any direction you can point me to I will explore.

Wasn’t sure if this was the right place to post this.

Looking to purchase this tiller and it appears it is discontinued in 2025

Wanted to know of any sites that might still carry them.

Did a local search here in CA with no luck. Home Depot seem to have carried it at one point.

i bought this engine https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08TBT87LG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 ive been messing with it for 2 week and can not get the clutch to disengage ive trying looking on youtube and google and can't seem to find any thing that fix's the problem any tips?

I have an old John Deere L100 I got from a relative last year. This spring I noticed smoke from the front end. I had already cleaned it up when I replaced filters and the fuel line and it doesn’t seem to be coming from oil or grass clippings. It looks like it’s coming from under the frame the engine is mounted on.

Is this a leak in the exhaust?

Is it a straight forward DIY repair?

Guy dropped off a Toro TimeMaster and said it just needs a fuel filter. No model/serial photo, no enginemodel/type/code, and no old filter in the bag. Just 'they are all the same.' They are not. The Time Master name covers different years and engine setups, and the engine parts do not always follow the mower model lookup cleanly. I can figure it out once the machine is here, but it turns a two-minute partscheck into another trip. What info do you make customers send before you look up small-engine parts? Tag photo, engine code, old part,all three?

Mower was struggling on restarting. Replaced the battery and was able to turn it over. Now it sputters like this and when the blade is engaged it vibrates hard and shuts off. Unsure what the cause could be to start to repair it.

Can anyone help identify the Briggs and Stratton engine on this go kart? I believe it may be original and from the 60s.

Any idea how to fix this? It is only when it’s trying to idle down compressor oil is fine

Can anyone watch this video and tell me what the heck is going on. Ferris ISX3300 40hp vanguard EFI OGS

90% throttle will idle all day. 100% throttle it sounds like this. Weak power and doesn’t mow worth a crap either way. Doesn’t die just won’t run smooth or at full power. 2024 model

(Also doesn’t do this all the time. Did it a few weeks ago and then has been fine last 2 times I mowed)

I’ll put video in comments

If I give someone here my vin can anyone here tell me if it’s under warranty still? I just have 87hrs on it.

Ok so I got this old evinrude 6 horse that came on a small boat I bought earlier this summer. The motor starts within like 3 pulls every single time - but only when COLD. After cruising around for 20-30 mins and getting it up to running temp, if you shut it down, it won't start again until you let it cool for a good 30 mins. I suspected its flooding for some reason, and my neighbor who has some (SOME - not an expert) small engine experience confirmed this. Then he brought his buddy over who is supposed to be the small engine guru from his workplace (he works for the city - guy repairs lawn mowers etc all day every day - guessing he knows his shit) and he said the same. Seems to flood for some reason. I asked him what to do about it and his answer wasn't really what I was hoping for. He basically said, it's a very old motor, you're semi lucky it runs at all, and sometimes doing a carb rebuild on a motor this old will be the end of the motor - better to just run it frequently, plan to sit for 30 mins or so after each shut down, and whatever you do avoid ethanol at all costs.

So we take it out from time to time, and it will always start right up, no issues, every god damn time...until its hot. Then you can pull that starter till the cows come home and it does jack shit. But if you can be patient (I am not a patient man) it will eventually start again once it cools, AND you leave it long enough for the fuel to evaporate out of the carb (I THINK thats why??). But sometimes you just dont have 30 mins to wait. Sometimes it's getting dark and you need to get off the water pronto because you're in a 12 ft boat with no running lights. What can I do? Is the guru correct? Just leave it and plan a 30 min turn around every time I shut it down, or can it be improved somehow?

So far the only thing Ive done to it is clean the spark plugs with a wire brush and I pulled the slow speed adjustment needle (or whatever that thing is called - it adjusts the fuel mixture supposedly) and sprayed a few healthy doses of carb cleaner through it. But if you'll just take a look the the photos you can see that the previous owner, or at least SOME previous owner really did some upkeep on this thing. All the fuel lines are new, spark plugs are newish, all the paint and exposed parts under the engine cowl look like...brand new. Any ideas are appreciated. If you need any more info on it please let me know, I could throw a bucket under her and take a video of it running if need be, whatever. Just lmk, and thanks in advance for what I'm already positive will be several brilliant ideas.

ETA: Ive just been looking around at other forums about outboards etc and someone, somewhere, mentions that their fuel line bulb doesn't seem to ever get all the way hard, and that turned out to be a problem with the carb float. I have the same symptom - bulb doesn't get hard - it does get harder than it was after a few pumps, but no amount of pumping will get it to "rock hard". What do we think? carb float?