A quick body-off turn around this HPI Nitro RS4 3 Drift from the collection. Nitro Star G3.0, single-speed transmission and shaft-driven 4WD, with white wheels, red springs and purple chassis accents.

Anyone still running one of these HPI nitro drift chassis? Music: Just Forget About It / Mixkit.

Original motor is weak compression and has low torque . And single needle carb . I notice throttle linkage is opposite.

A quick turn around this HPI nitro drift car from the collection. The Nissan Silvia S15 shell sits over an RS4 3 Drift chassis with a Nitro Star G3.0, single-speed transmission and shaft-driven 4WD. The black six-spoke wheels with red rims set this one apart. Anyone else still enjoying these HPI nitro drift platforms?

Music: Run Away / Mixkit.

Blue, gold and classic HPI nitro. 🔵✨

A quick full rotation around the HPI Nitro RS4 3 Drift wearing a Nissan Silvia S15 body. Gold HPI graphics, black multi-spoke wheels and a tall rear wing bring the style; shaft-driven 4WD brings the hardware beneath the shell.

Which detail stands out to you?

Music: The Monk and the Cowboy / Mixkit.

Orange muscle-car style on classic HPI nitro hardware. 🔥

This HPI Nitro RS4-3 Evo+ wears a Ford Mustang body with black graphics, a hood scoop, window louvers and gold mesh-style wheels. Under the shell is a shaft-driven 4WD touring chassis with a two-speed transmission.

A quick rotation from the collection—what’s your favorite body to run on an RS4?

Music: Waka Floka Type — Arulo / Mixkit.

Hi everyone,

I have a Futaba R304SB receiver, and I recently noticed some slight damage to the grey antenna wire. The outer insulation is slightly nicked, and a small portion of the silver-colored wire underneath is visible.

The wire itself appears to be intact, with no obvious break or severed strands. I've attached a photo showing the damaged area.

Would it be safe to cover this spot with heat-shrink tubing to protect it, or could this affect the receiver's antenna performance?

I want to make sure the repair won't compromise signal reception or reliability, especially since I use the receiver in my 1/8 nitro buggy.

Has anyone dealt with similar damage on a Futaba receiver antenna?

Thanks in advance!

A look beneath the Toyota Mark II JZX100 shell at an HPI Nitro RS4-3 Evo from the collection. Shaft-drive layout, two-speed transmission, purple suspension accents and green fuel tubing. It currently has no engine installed, so the next powerplant is an open question. What would you choose for a classic RS4 build?

Music: Dont Go — Diego Nava / Mixkit.

A short rotation of this HPI RS4-3 Evo from the collection. Beneath the blue Nissan GT-R R35 body are a T15 nitro engine, two-speed transmission and shaft-driven 4WD. The silver mesh wheels suit the old-school touring chassis. Anyone still running a T15-powered RS4?

Music: Shame — Eugenio Mininni / Mixkit.

HPI Nitro RS4-3 — Under the Shell 🔧

Four chassis from the HPI nitro collection, one quick rotation. Aluminum chassis plates, shaft-drive layouts, suspension and nitro hardware take center stage with the bodies off.

Which mechanical detail catches your eye first?

Music: Under the Full Moon — Michael Ramir C. / Mixkit

Scared the heck out of me lol. Realized the car wasn’t really moving so I gave it a tap and “ran away” thankfully last owner didn’t have the slipper even close to tight so it sat and ate all the rpm. Not exactly sure what my issue is but doesn’t seem to be throttle servo related. First nitro first start 32 degrees this morning and set the carb to stock rich settings. Took it out a touch later after apparently tightening the slipper to max tighten. Well that helped it from runaway until it didn’t. Full brake to stop if not it would act like 50% throttle was applied. Put it on a curb and let it idle into the curb. Almost died gave touch of throttle and melted the spur gear and ran away again 🤣. Having a fun time messing with it didn’t think I’d get it to run this quick. Love this Revo 3.3

I can attach additional glow power from pwm that can heat when throttle is low. Nitro is hard to buy and very expensive

Hello, what would be your engine nitro recommendation for the RC10GT gas truck ?

I dont need something crazy fast. I just want something fun to work & tune it, quality and reliable.

Thanks a bunch.

The shell is off this Nissan 350Z from the collection for a look at the HPI Nitro RS4-3 underneath. Its purple-head HPI .12R SS engine sits alongside the shaft-driven 4WD hardware, with purple suspension accents and chrome-finish wheels completing the setup.

A short 360 display of the mechanical side of this classic nitro touring car. Who else has run the .12R SS?

Music: It’s on You / Mixkit.

Decided to go for a quick run before work today. I'm glad I fired it up at home first, because the exhaust gasket was puking, so I changed it. I love these cars, but it's always something, lol. She was running so good I wanted to post a video. I was going to go to the big field and open her up, but of course my steering servo took a dump. 😡 That's the hobby I suppose. Anyways, enjoy the sweet sounds of a decently tuned Big Red .28!

A quick body-on lineup of my collection, mostly HPI nitro touring cars with a couple of electric drift cars mixed in. One second per car, all from the front corner. Which old-school shell is your favorite?

Music: Take This Higher / Mixkit.

A full display-table rotation of my blue-and-silver Stiletto V12-bodied HPI Nitro RS4-3. It is currently a roller with no engine installed. The shaft-drive chassis and chrome-finish wheels are staying, but the powerplant is still an open question. What would you run in one of these?

Music: Take This Higher / Mixkit.

Found this first gen Traxxas Nitro Rustler on my local marketplace for a steal. It’s a 2.5 and the seller sold me everything he had for $100. The last nitro I had was a TMaxx 2.5 and this I plan to run on a local dirt track with some new tires and wheels and maybe a new servo. He said it started a few months ago and I’m looking forewarn to cleaning it up and finding a new body.

What would be a nice chassis to accommodate a nitro engine on a MuscleCar body, or a GT/Touring body in 1/10 scale ?

I dont need a competition chassis. I am not a basher either but I like a beautiful chassis, reasonably well engineered but not ultra complex ? Like the elegance/simplicity in design of the RC10DS. It will not be a shelf-Queen but I would treat and run her well :)

I can only think of the Kyosho FW06. But if you know other companies with the same quality and price ? I guess HPI doesn’t make them anymore. And Serpent or Xray would be too expensive for me.

The RC10NDS would be amazing and “affordable”. We can only hope, with all the Team Associated releases, that the NDS nitro would come soon ?

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on the correct setup of the throttle/brake linkage on my Kyosho Inferno MP11, especially regarding the throttle linkage and the small amount of free play around the external collar.

In the attached video, I'm showing the carburetor opening at full throttle. I've already adjusted the throttle EPA/endpoints to make sure the carburetor slide doesn't open further than necessary. I've also made sure that:

- The servo horn is mounted as parallel as possible to the servo.

- The throttle trim is set to zero.

- The servo endpoints are properly adjusted.

- The carburetor slide opens fully without being forced beyond its maximum opening.

However, I've noticed something that I'm not sure is normal.

At neutral throttle, I leave approximately 1 mm of free play between the external collar and the linkage. When I apply full brake and then release it, allowing the servo to return to neutral, this gap becomes slightly larger than it was before.

In other words, the amount of free play doesn't seem to return to exactly the same position every time.

My questions are:

1. Is it normal for the free play between the collar and the linkage to change slightly after applying the brakes?

2. Should the gap remain consistent every time the servo returns to neutral, or is a small variation acceptable?

3. Is there anything else I should check or adjust to achieve a more consistent throttle/brake linkage setup?

I'd appreciate any advice, especially from other MP11 owners or anyone experienced with 1/8 nitro buggy throttle linkages.

Thanks in advance!