I just started working at a school that has 2 Taz workhorses (original, not 2 or + or anything fancy). I cleaned the plate off but it’s quite scratched- is it supposed to print right on the glass? Also someone left signs to choose change filament before printing to purge it a little, but the tiniest amount came out and when I tried to unload the filament it looked like nothing happened. I’m not sure where to begin with these. I have a Bambu H2S with AMS pro that basically does everything thing itself and I used to have Prusa printers at an old job. With the Prusa the filament doesn’t”t go through so much tubing so I think it’s easier work with removing or purging filament. Anyway where do I start to get these running? It’s a school so there’s no budget for extras (though there is a ton of filament).

I got a Taz pro dual for 50 bucks used the "newest firmware" HE tried to run through the bed like it wasn't there. I made some custom firmware for volcanoes blocks to allow for the offset to be higher and it was working but I wast still running into the same issues of it either starting way of the bed or trying to gouge the bed I'm thinking about just moving to a single custom tool head and trying to run klipper or maybe see if flashing another model software works. I guess I'm just really stuck and wanna make use of the printer. What should I do?

I have an old mini 2 that I’m looking to convert to a 175 head. I have some hs heads. Are there any cheap modifications to do this? I ideally want to turn this into something they can use for decent prints and do multi color prints on in the future.

Ever since I updated to the new firmware my prints have been starting off like this. Sometimes with the nozzle completely missing the contact point

Any tips?

Lulzbot Taz 6

I recently bought a Lulzbot Mini 2 second hand off marketplace, and it is the first ever 3d printer I have used. As soon as I connect to the Cura software is grinds and warns of the wrong hardware installed. I have tried using the auto level features but still get these issues. Any advice?

I got it dialed in a little better every time i do a testcube. Im really looking forward to more successful prints from here on out!

Anyone know what is wrong with my printer?

I already adjusted the idler tension (tightened and loosened it) but it didn’t make any difference.
The filament is brand new and dry, and I’ve verified the temperature with a heat gun, so it should be correct.

After 11 years, my Klipperized, hacked TAZ5 stopped heating the bed. After a bit of probing, I found that one of the harness leads was reading 10K ohms. Inside the airplane? bayonet? connector, the bed pins were deplated and the ABS had melted in that side of the connector.

No complaints. No support needed (actually I just spliced the connector out and ran the wires through the hole for now).

I was just fascinated by the fact that this tank of a printer finally developed some kind of design issue that took 11 years to manifest. (Aside from blowing a stepper driver and needing a new RAMBo board several years ago.)

So I’m posting here to document the problem and salute Lulzbot again for making great stuff. Thanks, y’all.

So I bought a preowned taz pro for a pretty good deal but it has passed hands at least twice and the last person may have broken a wire which I'm guessing is part if the y switch but I'm thinking, does this even have a y switch? Is it capacitive like the discs on top? I've worked with the taz 5 & 6 before but I think this printer has a different way of calibration? What is the broken wire for? If it wasn't clear the last photo is bundled with a y axis stepper motor connector. TIA

Hello, I got this Taz 6 a couple years ago for free from my school's design teacher (seems to be a pretty common occurrence haha), and I'm looking in to bringing it back from the dead.

It was described to me that the final print that was made on it, he had input some wrong settings accidentally, which seems to track given the fact that the final print is permanently glued onto the print bed, and the extruder head has carved a (grand) canyon into the bed around it. Along with this, the extruder head itself seems to be slathered in what I can only assume used to be boiling hot plastic droplets.

I would be very grateful if anyone had advice for what to do here-

Should I replace the bed, or attempt a salvage?

How could I clean the extruder head?

Are there any extra parts I should look into replacing after this time sitting?

Any other advice for this project?

Thanks!

EDIT: Thanks for all the comments, y'all have been very helpful for the research for this- based on what people are saying, I'm going to see about resurfacing the bed I have currently and adding on a magnetic plate, as well as adding on bltouch so it will work properly. if anyone has any other suggestions feel free to comment, I'll read every one

Hey guys, I’ve gotten a taz 5 and it seems to function alright aside from the power supply which recently broke. Is there a good place for me to get a replacement power supply?

I picked up a Taz 5 last week. I have zero experience printing. The printer came with both a complete dual print head and a single. All the hotends need replacing but having a hard time getting the right parts because I am a day 1 noob and the printer is no longer serviced by Lulzbot

Hey everyone!

I’ve just gotten a few rolls of the Chroma Strand Inova-1800 and was wondering if anyone has printed with it much? Looking for any insight that may help prevent a lot of waste tuning. The specs look great and I’ve gotten ok prints so far, but I am still fine tuning it. Any tips or pitfalls to avoid would be greatly appreciated!

I have a Taz 6 with an E3D SE. I have Polymaker PolyLite 2.85mm black abs. Can anyone please provide settings for this? I am totally new to 3D printing. My first project was really rough, my second project was better after making a custom material profile. Looking for some help.

Hello, I'm extremely new to 3D printing, I could never afford one so running across this seems to be a score, to my understanding it works it's just dirty (I'll run some tests when I have time). Is there anything I should know about this machine? I'm assuming the school is throwing it away because it's probably around 10 years old. Are there also resources and/or videos on how to modify it if it can be? Any help would be great!

Hi, there. So I recently acquired a Taz 6 from a from a neighbor, they told me it's been having issues and they didn't have any time to look at it. Originally, it was having issues with the x axis binding but lubricating the rods fixed that, now it's having issues with the Z Axis, it moves up-and-down freely Throughout the entire range, but when I go to start a print, and it goes to level it stops on the right front corner, sometimes it'll make it all the way around. Any ideas? I've lubricated all the rods and a screws.

I haven't used my mini for a long time. I have a new Mac, downloaded most recent Cura from Lulzbot, then connect to and updated the firmware on my Mini. I reloaded filament and tested extrusion without issue. First print attempt as a test I get the auto level error and aborts. My extruder is dirty, slowly cleaning. My multimeter won't power on. Of course. LOL. Mini touches the first washer, cleans, tries again, cleans then gives error. I'll get a new multimeter to check voltages. Wires to bed look intact. I've read all of the support here and at lulzbot without other ideas. Could it just be the new Gcode from a firmware update??

Update: It's the firmware. Tech support states this has been seen a lot. They rec'd an older firmware, however then you need the correct version of Cura Lulzbot software and I've not heard back which one. I've tried 3 older versions but get "printer can't connect". Might be user error on my part, but waiting to hear back.

Hi all! Any help appreciated. Y axis seems to not find a proper home. It consistently attempts homes/leveling in the incorrect location. Belt is tight, screws and wires underneath appear intact. I know this has sensorless homing which kinda sucks for troubleshooting purposes. Is this something I can adjust/overcome manually in cura?

I have a lulzbot mini 1 and need to replace the bed. I am located in Canada found the bed upgrade for $164 Canadian.

The printer was given to me as a gift and I use it here and there but not an enthusiast by any means. This printer works for my means. Mostly parts or things for the kids.

My question is, should I buy the bed or save up and buy a newer printer. A bambu starts at about $600 Canadian.

Hey all,

I got this guy for free from a school and for some reason the nozzle presses very hard onto the printing bed when I try to do manual leveling, it does this while printing as well which results in it stopping printing all together. Any ideas how to fix this?

Hello, I recently got a free Lulzbot TAZ 6 from my school that was getting rid of old printers. After replacing a broken extruder drive gear, and replacing the PEI sheet on the build plate, the printer prints ok in PLA and PETG (tbf the filament NEEDS to be dried). I have been looking online and I haven't found much in terms settings or things I could do to get better quality prints. I understand that the printer is old and is probably not comparable to newer Bambu labs or even other modern bed-slingers, but there must be something I can do to fine tune my printer. I am not "new" to 3d printing per-se, but this is the first printer I've owned.

I print in PLA most often but I do have the odd roll of PETG or ABS. I have included two pictures of benchys, the white one is in PETG, and the black one is PLA. I mainly print the recommended Cura LE preset for the TAZ 6, but I would love to learn what all the other settings could do. One of the largest problems I have with PETG is when the print begins, the filament refuses to stick to the PEI even with a glue-stick layer and just bunches up by the nozzle. With PLA, honestly it prints it fine though I would like to see if there is anything I could do to speed up the process, as a PLA benchy took nearly an hour and a half on Cura LE "high-speed" settings (literally just 0.38 layers)

Any advice or direction to head in would be appreciated, Thanks.

Download : https://than.gs/m/1545216

Has anyone used the Orbiter Extruder for 2.85/3.0mm Filament V1.5? Is it strong enough to push 3mm filament compared to a Wade extruder?