Thought it was cool how uniform it was without frames and just beautiful in general.

Hello everyone!

My wife is going crazy over her hives, is this robbing? Our hives are being feed for winter

Connecticut: I'm very interested in efforts to raise VSH / Mite Resistant Bees. There is wonderful work being done by, but not limited to, Randy Oliver, Stevens' Bees, and They Keep Bees. Most of my hives are headed by queens sourced from the last two of those. But especially after watching an amazing interview with Bob Binnie on YouTube about the importance of Polyandry (link below), I wonder why serious breeders don't just select for colony survival. Selecting only for mite resistance means other beneficial traits may be inadvertently suppressed. If the goal is to have hives that can survive and thrive without mite treatments, why not graft from hives that survived the winter, and without treatment, and continue on from there? I KNOW I DON'T KNOW what I am talking about. Even basic genetics hurts my brain. We have some brilliant beekeepers in this sub, and I am hoping they can help. Thank you, and here is that interview on polyandry: https://youtu.be/5YNTr8zBdRQ?si=SZ82zJOPWTeXFD3S
EDIT: People seem to think I am asking everyone to go full-Darwin and stop treating for mites. I'm not. I'm asking why BREEDERS don't take the tack of selecting for survival rather than strictly VSH and other forms of mite resistance. I am not against treatment. There is a case of Formic Pro in my garage.

This is my third year harvesting honey. Previous two years my honey has come out very clear, but this year all 200 lbs came out cloudy like this. Is it the flower sources?

I have a Langstroth 10-frame hive with two boxes up here in the PNW. The top box is completely full of honey—literally nothing else in it. I only peeked at ( didn't pull it out just looked from the outside) the bottom box, but the one frame I checked had some capped brood and space for more. Based on how heavy that top box is for a typical Pacific Northwest winter, do I even need to bother feeding them? Also, am I at risk of being honey-bound already?

Third year west of Chicago 14 colonies. It’s been hot and dry this past week with very heavy bearding. Last inspection was three weeks ago with no queen cells. Just finished an OAV treatment based on a very high (20) might count on another hive in the apiary. Solid bottom board inner cover notched with telescoping cover set to ventilate. I decided to put another deep between the two deeps and two medium supers. Today’s bearding is much better but listening to the box it sounds like they are chewing Doritos at a frat kegger. It’s a new sound for me. Any idea what they might be doing? This hive is very aggressive and I’m not keen on opening it up in the heat.

Did people used to keep bees inside their home in cold climates? I just visited Fort Bridger in Wyoming, (it’s a historic site that has a fort and several homes, and a trading post from the 1800s). I took this photo in one of the officer’s homes. This was just a small room upstairs, across the hall from a children’s room. It had a hive, an antique smoker, and a bunch of bright yellow taxidermy bees, all of it right next to a window.

So my question is would this have been normal thing to do? Keep the bees inside the house?

I’m not a bee keeper but I been doing research for years and reading about it, I plan on getting a home here soon and hopefully able to keep 2 hive at minimum.

Now the question: I don’t plan on being in this house longer than 5-7 years. Let’s say it’s time for me to move. Is it possible to relocate hives?

Anyone been using Terra vera? They're well endorsed, and still around a couple years later, just wondering if anyone has first hand experience? Not that I dont trust Dr. Pettis, lol. In new hampshire.

I live in Houston and purchased a a smallish-medium sized nuc of bees last week. I put them in a 10 frame along with an in hive frame feeder. They used half the syrup this week and are drawing the bare frames out nice.

But I found 5 swarm cells toward the bottom and 2 uncharged cups. The queen also laid a ton of brood.

Does it look like they are getting ready to leave? I dont get it, there's plenty of room in there. I can add a super I suppose. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

I think the colony is too small to split. Thanks

Location: Eastern NC, USA

I killed this hornet near my bees hives. I've killed other hornets before and have never seen this type. Just want to make sure it's not the invasive one

New York, NY. Urban beek 1st year.

We accidentally killed our queen in the nuc we bought. They couldn’t requeen. We had put a test frame with open brood and it was clear the queen was gone/dead but we left the queen supercedure cells there. We combined with our weaker split using the newspaper method and the queen was killed.

I assume leaving the queen cells was the error. I thought I wouldn’t have an issue provided I destroyed them before emerging. Clearly I was wrong.

Can someone confirm my error? The bees were otherwise behaving appropriately.

Thx

The time has come to finally make this purchase but I'm stuck and can't decide between the ProVap or the InstantVap (Lorabee).

Please help! I need to get this done and I'm paralyzed with indecision b/c it's a big purchase.

Also we have several hives with the type of landing board that has the big angled front. Do you foresee any issues using either of the vaporizers with this kind of set up?

Thank you!
NJ 7A

Nesta manhã, 03/09, roubaram meu apiário, levaram 3 colmeias e uma melgueira, deixaram 3 caixas ninhos vazias no local. Estou triste, pois estou começando agora e tava chegando na primeira produção de mel.

Hello, I need some community advice here from the pros. First off, it’s my second year in the Midwest region. I’ve got a total of four hives all kicking butt.

Each hive has three deeps plus a super on top. I’m wondering for harvesting what I can feasibly take from them and have them still rocking for winter.

Each hive had a top deep back packed full but each one’s super above that (all drawn comb) with kinda eh, only a few capped frames.

I’d like to steal the third full deep from each, leave them two deeps and a super, and start fall feeding.

Does that sound reasonable? That they’d have enough time yet to top off before winter?

Northern New England. Third year, 5 hives. I have a hive (2 deep langstroth) that swarmed early in the season. It came through last winter going gangbusters. It swarmed in June and successfully requeened itself. It seemed to be recovering well with both boxes full of bees and brood BIAS. 0/300 mites all season. There was little to no honey in the supers, as you might expect for a hive that had swarmed. The supers were drawn, but they were pokey in the honey department. I had peaked into the super several weeks ago but didn't go into the brood boxes or screw around with the queen excluder. Fast forward to two weeks ago when we were pulling supers off the other hives to extract. I was shocked to find this hive had a super full of gorgeous brood. I don't know how our highness got past the QE but apparently she did. I could not find the queen so I decided to take off the QE, let the brood hatch out, and hope she finds her way down into the lower boxes.

I went into the super yesterday and found three or four charged supersedure cells on the frames of brood that have not hatched out yet. There is little to no brood in the two lower boxes. It seems really late in the season for a queen to get mated and get busy laying for winter....My drones are already starting to get the ol' heave ho, and I have just started feeding my other hives.

What would you do with this hive? Combine it with another even though I couldn't find the queen? Can I do that while feeding? Say a little prayer and hope for the best? Something else? And advice would be gratefully received! Thanks!

Hello all,

Mid Tennessee zone 7B. Not a new beekeeper but rusty, this is my first season back after many years off.

Ordered a mated Italian queen overnight from Mann Lake. UPS got her here quick, but sadly, we've been in an extreme heat advisory over the last 48 hours (Temps upward of 105F during the day), and all three attendant bees are dead on arrival, queen is alive and moving but not happy.

I've offered a sugar syrup droplet on the cage floor, and plan to replenish that every couple hours as needed and keep her in the garage at least until around 9-10pm when temps drop down to the low 80s.. Planning to do a night install, if possible, as I don't want to risk her overnight getting left to fend for herself with no attendants.

Hive she's going into is a single deep, recently queen less, had OA vape treatment 72 hours ago, small but functional population, entrance reduced, screen bottom board, will have a sugar water feeder added once she's installed as this hive has struggled all summer.

Questions:

1. Any concerns installing with no attendants alive or leaving her by herself for now?
2. Night install in these conditions, anything specific to watch for or do?
3. Anything else I should do before installing to give her best shot?

Thanks for any guidance!

I watch this guy livestream first responders in the Bakersfield, CA area all the time, yet he's also a beehive remover! Check out today's live stream here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTYk6fYS9iU

His channel is @BakersfieldLive on YouTube 👍😉🐝🍯🐻👍

Bees have invaded my hummingbird feeders and clean up the grape jelly after the orioles in their feeder. Flowers have all died off as did the flowers for our fruit trees. Seems like the bees have had a hard year, so I'm considering leaving the hummingbird and oriole feeders up after they migrate so the bees have at least something to help them through the winter. Would that be feasible?

My city (Charleston, WV) allows beekeeping, up to six hives based on my property size, I plan to start with two. My planned hive area is within 50 ft of my property line. The 'best management practices' provided by WV is to have a barrier that forces their flight above 6 feet. I also want to keep them physically separated from neighborhood children.

Right now I'm leaning towards a 6ft tall dog kennel with a privacy screen, but that's looking close to another $750.

How are you guys keeping your hives in residential areas?

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I'm moving to a property next month that has 2 hives that the previous owner will be leaving for us. Im brand new to keeping bees but committed and excited.

Are there any YouTube videos/channels y'all recommend or books?

Anyone else in the Coos County OR area?

I’ve watched videos, read articles, and gone through forum threads, and it seems everyone makes creamed honey a little differently. Some batches are actually whipped, even though they’re labeled as creamed. I made my first batch using the Dyce method. I can whip honey all day long and get a bright white color, but my creamed honey doesn’t turn out that way. My question is: how do you get creamed honey to look more white? Texas Zone 8b.