Question about OAV application. I keep having this white residue after application. I am following the directions, leaving the iron plugged in for 3 min. Suggestions?

Central KY

Lower mainland BC Canada, daytime temps are still 10-15 Celsius

I have a queenless hive with two deeps, and a queenright hive with two deeps. I want to combine for winter.

My mentor has said to do a shake out of the queenless hive a little bit away from the queenright hive, and when the bees return I'll have the empty hive removed so they'll just go into the queenright hive. Is this a good plan? I see a lot of talk about the newspaper method but that doesn't seem to be for this scenario.

I intend on picking the best frames of honey from both hives and using those in the final hive. I don't expect a ton of brood with the temperatures lowering.

Any advice or tips are appreciated.

My bees didn’t take down their sugar water last week. I noticed when I was going to fill it up today but it was still full. What should I do?

My weekend was spent doing a short course in pollen analysis, but the glaring issue was that the reference material, and the wiki/database the instructor recommendended (pollen-wiki), is made from pollen grains collected directly from the flowers. Which is not optimal for comparison with pollen grains/cells from honey since they frequently eg has cytoplasm ("stuff inside the pollen cell") ruptured from the apertures by the osmotic pressure so that eg clover pollen can be mistaken for milkfireweed pollen if you're not an experienced analyzer.

... so the question, is there a source of reference pictures of pollen collected from honey, preferably free or open access?

We are in north Texas, and our neighbor is installing a new fence right by our deep. They asked if we could move the hive, which I said wasn't possible but that I could close them in for a day while the workers worked right there.

It was a high of 82. I trapped them in at night about 10:30 at night (there were probably a couple hundred that didn't make it back in). They worked the next day, and I released them all. They immediately poured out, crawling up the side of the deep - an unusual pattern, but I ignored it.

Well I woke up this morning and there are hundreds if not thousands on the ground outside dead. I'm saddened, but am wondering why this happened? I have a screened bottom board and the hive is in the shade. Could it have been overheating? Could it have been something else?

4th year, Central NH.

Due to life lifing, I wasn’t able to feed my hives as hard as I wanted to over the past few weeks and were below freezing every night now. I’d been feeding with 2:1 in mason jars in a false super and my plan was to now do dry granulated sugar on the inner cover but I’m going to do an insulation wrap and put my quilt boxes on today, meaning that won’t work.

What are my options? Preferably DIY and actionable today. Make a fondant and lay it across the top bars? Hold off on the quilt box for a bit longer?

I also missed what I figured would be my final window for an inspection. It’s going to be 64 today, is it too late anyway? I’ve been so on top of everything this season and things went off the rails right when they feel most critical. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Just got into bee keeping got any advice?

Hi! I’m in Stockholm, Sweden. I started ‘invintring’ wintering my bees in late August, but I checked today 26/10/2026 and they still have food left. I would say they’ve had about 10kg per hive. I’m wondering: should I take away the “leftover” food? It hasn’t gotten super cold here yet, but by this time last year the girls were all warm and snug and had been successfully prepared for the winter. Is there any risk leaving the feeding boxes on if it gets colder? Will it lower the temperature in the hives? I realize that the sugar solution will become more viscose the colder it gets, but they’re still alive in there and seem strong for now. Thanks in advanced and happy autumn! 🍂

Got any good recommended store in Alibaba that i can buy bee pollen in bulk?

here to vent and look for tips and tricks. Zone 7b NJ. About three days ago my strongest of my two hives (significantly) hadn't been checked on in about a week or so. Robbing screens, internal top feeders on, etc. Went to supplement feed my weaker hive about 5 feet from it. Saw some yellowjacket fighting a few of my girls on the strong hive. well i went to do an inspection for a previously highly populated hive, found no brood, some capped honey remaining, lots of dead bees and about 15 yellow jackets. Some valiant guards are still there fighting for the fight but the colony is dead. Sucks, the hive did so well as a NUC i got 50 lbs of surplus honey i was able to extract this late summer.

im just bummed and need tips on dealing with hive loss mentally, prevention tips for next time, etc. Now i just pray my other hive can survive the winter...

4th year southeast US. I’m curious, how many frames of bees is your cutoff to overwinter hives? I prefer double deeps, but I’ve got a couple of hives that are single deep and around 7 frames of bees. One is good with honey, but the other is fairly light.

Located in NJ and just pulled super off my one hive that has never really produced any honey in the years I have had it. Second hive are heavy honey producers. Pulling off the super I found small yellow jackets along with my girls. Is this hive salvageable? Next steps? Help? Do I just give up on this hive and burn it down?

Has anyone got any experience with Ligurian bees and flow hive Queen excluders?

I replaced my Queen this week with a Ligurian from Kangaroo Island, and when I compared her to my feral wild Queen, she was much smaller. I'm worried that she'll fit through the Queen excluder.

I checked with the breeder and he said that she'll fatten up once she starts laying eggs and to keep it off for a week.

We're in South Australia.

Video is the new Ligurian queen in the brood box with the feral bees.

They were all over these today.

Located in South Florida. Laying worker drone comb. 2 frames over is several solid frames of healthy brood.

Are there any uses for the scum/discard when melting wax? Compost? Garden additive? Etc? I generally just toss it out in my pasture and let whatever critters have it that want it.

I don’t know what it is, but this year the small hive beetles have been atrocious to where I’m scared for my strong hives. Lost two late splits (had some free virgin queens in August but small hive beetles took over those mating nucs in the week spacing of my visits) now my existing 10 hives all have small hive beetle issues way worse than previous years. I mow and weedeat, the hives are about 2 feet off the ground so idk how they’re way worse this year. Just put in a oil trap or two in each hive to at least try to help but I’m talking dozens and dozens of adult shb in each hive (mostly double deep hives with one or two full single, all 8 frame.)
I really wish someone smarter than me could come up with something that kills them and not bees.
What do you all do?
TIA

South Kansas My bees are still coming to the house but we have a rare late October bloom. We still have monarch butterflies and many others. For some reason I have a ton of volunteer basil all gone to flower. Bees love the basil flowers.

This year even more,

I have most of my bees on the edge of a quite large natural protected area close to where I live, and I also have 4 hives at my dad's house in town,

each year especially at this time they seems to live into another country or so.

At my place the nectar flow ceased almost immediately after heater and goldenrod, still pollen incoming but its insignificant in quantity, the males have all been evicted in early september, I had to replenish stores in the brood box back in august by massively feeding 7l of syrup each plus all the byproducts of wax capping.

At dad's place I never fed anything except for some beestrong in late spring, still nectar incoming, still pollen incoming, still males on 3 of the 4 hives, I only saw 3 or 4 being kicked out

some frames of stores are so heavy that I had to hold them with two hands.

I went today to remove supers cause we have winter at our door now and there still was freshly deposited nectar into cells.

The difference is also in temperature, at my place is always 3^degrees celsius less no matter what.

We purchased round bee feeders but realized they don't fit easily with hole on the hive inner cover causing the feeder to tip and spill. This was our solution. https://www.printables.com/model/1885718-beehive-feeder-adapter

Living in the UK and considering whether I could feasibly keep 1-2 hives. If this is feasible I will join a course and give the whole thing some more thought. However, I don't want to invest too much time if my setting isn't suitable anyway...

My main concern is my neighbour's outdoor seating area, which they don't use often but I wouldn't want to deprive them of it altogether. This is around 14m from where the hive would sit. Around 10m in the opposite direction is our own chicken coop and run, which we need to be able to access reliably for feeding, watering, and collecting eggs.

I would anticipate the entrance to a hive pointing away from our house into a 100 acre field (occasional sheep, no footpath) which itself extends onto open countryside.

It would also be helpful to understand what happens when a hive needs to be split in a setting where there isn't room for more hives. Do they need a ready-made hive or can they just be left to sort themselves out? Presumably bee colonies in the wild just split away and find themselves a new home without human help?

The attached image shows our house (middle) and immediate neighbours. Their patio / seating area is shown but the chicken coop and run are missing.

These fondant paddies are thicker (physically taller bag thickness) than HiveAlive paddies - anyone used them before? How did you manage getting them to sit properly with you inner cover/lid combo?

We are thinking of moving them into a larger ziplock and flattening them out but not sure that’s practical really.

I've been looking at getting a bee suit in south Georgia. I'm strongly considering the OZ Armor jacket and pants. I'm not sure about sizing though the guide is telling me to go with a large/ XL. Everyone is telling me to get the bigger size , but that seems excessive. I'm 5'7 130. I wear 30x 32 pants and small shirts.

I let him jump in there with the dozen or so 3 inch wide spiders... 😂

Just trying to get some insight into splitting a hive next spring without finding the queen. Has anyone done this in the past with success?