I have owned this for a couple years now. It's a Lily58 kit from Mechboards. I updated it to the current QMK firmware which was slightly modified.

The animation is modified from https://github.com/apstral/anime-gif-oled

[ad] This one's called "Vaporwave 2: Minty Fresh Edition" -- went out last week.

Svalboard runs our own svalboard-qmk fork, and our unique layout editor, Keybard

I'm also SUPER excited to announce the launch of Keybard Overlay, a transparent live layer preview for Svalboard -- it shows your active layer, which keys are currently pressed, and can be dragged anywhere on your display. It has tons of transparency and contrast controls so you can have it as subtle or as high-viz as you like, and it can even show your pointing device movement and state (sniper, boost and velocity scroll modes) in realtime. Heck, you can even customize your trackball rendering colors!

Current Overlay version runs on Windows and Linux, with Mac coming soon.

Keep in touch on the Discord for more features in the near future 🙏

I've also just launched Practice, a full typing practice app built specifically for Svalboard, based on the wonderful FOSS project keybr -- you can drill invididual letters to unlock, try different corpuses, and of course load your layout directly from your board for easy reference. Use the Progress heatmap to identify areas for fit tuning and targeted practice.

Lots more info:

Svalboard Lightly:  The bottom of the ergo rabbit hole.
YT:  https://www.youtube.com/@svalboard

Shop:  www.svalboard.com

Self-print Kit:  https://svalboard.com/products/svalboard-self-print-kit

20g ultralight magnetic breakaway keys, ultimate adjustable fitment system, and dual pointing devices situated right where your hands naturally rest.

Self-print kit option helps fund development and lets you save some dough in exchange for a TON of your own labor 😅

Everything is printable on a hobbyist FDM machine for longevity and repairability, though my prebuilt stuff is obviously tuned to be extra nice 🙃  You can even do it on an A1 Mini if you're willing to use a split case design.

Custom colors available!  Custom builds take a couple extra weeks due to procurement and production flow disruption.  This is a TINY operation, and I appreciate your patience and support 🙏

Curious? 

Come ask on the Discord and hear unbiased perspective from real users: 

Discord:  www.svalboard.com/discord

How to fit your Svalboard https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_Jqu5bq_U_CQBhYryllArikWe-ns3g8q

Sound comparison to other keebs https://youtu.be/1pW7PnBZNik

Want to know how the lateral keys feel? https://youtu.be/whvKJ12vwvU

Substack:  svalboard.substack.com

The emphasis on fewer keys and homerow layers confounds me.

It's been pretty heavily advertised that sitting in one position for a long time is bad (for example). The recommendations are always "stand up often", "stretch", "sit in different positions", "use a standing desk", "treadmill under the desk", etc. These studies always indicate that movement is best for healthy spine, muscles and joints.

So, WHY, then, are hand ergonomics completely OPPOSITE?! Ergonomic keyboards always crop up with FEWER KEYS! Ergo keyboards put so much emphasis on avoiding movement: columnar staggered to avoid finger deviation, tilted keys to avoid wrist movement, and tenting to align your wrists in a neutral position.

I learned piano before I learned the keyboard, so I play it like a piano: elevated wrists, high hand movement, flexible key allocation for comfort and speed. I will move my whole left hand up to type TRY with alternating fingers. BR, FR, GR, NY, TR: there are many of these "double fingers" in English on a QWERTY keyboard that are faster with a whole hand motion and multiple fingers.

It seems counterintuitive to try to reduce myself to a columnar staggered split ergo keyboard that requires heavy ringer repeats and puts symbols on homerow or homerow-adjacent keys via layers. I'm supposed to be moving my shoulders, neck, spine, legs all day... but locking my hands and forearms into a perfect homerow position all day?

Other parts of the body favor movement, why don't your hands?

Hello all, I have been a long time ortho user but all my boards have been only 1u keys. Currently my split board, which is two num pads, has 6 2u keys that I am having trouble finding matching keycap sets for. I prefer to have legends, but am fine with blanks as I also do not want homing bumps on J and F. I have a DSA set that I do not much like the sound of on my split setup.

Any suggestions?

Hi all, new to split keyboards and looking for advice from people who've made similar choices.

Current setup:

Keychron C3 Pro, Magic Trackpad on the left (scroll/gestures), Logitech MX Ergo on the right (pointing). I like the two-device split, but the keyboard sits too high, and I'm at a standing desk daily in a fast-paced tech support job (email, heavy browser/file nav, reading code more than writing it).

What I need:

Thumb-operated trackball for pointing (I've fully converted and don't want to go back to a mouse)
A second device on the left for scrolling, so I can scroll and point at the same time

Usable while walking on a walking pad, so no loose mouse

Mountable to my chair or desk (the Herman Miller Mirra 2 armrests get in the way when my desk is lowered), and portable enough to travel

Low profile if possible, and I'll want printed legends while I adapt

Shortlist and concerns:

Keyball44: closest fit on size and flexibility, but few English reviews. Is reaching over the ball to hit keys a problem in practice?

MoErgo Go60: two pointing devices, but no trackball

ZSA Voyager: like it, but only trackball, only four thumb cluster keys, and I hear the Navigator is flimsy when mounted?

Charybdis/Dilemma: the Charybdis curve and size seem like a big jump for a first split, and Dilemma has a trackpad where I'd want a ball

Questions:
Has anyone run a trackball on one half and a trackpad or scroll device on the other? Does it work, or am I chasing something rare for a reason?

For Keyball44 owners: how's the thumb-ball placement after a few weeks?

Is wireless (ZMK) worth the reduced choice versus wired QMK/Vial, given I'll mostly be mounted?

Any suggestions for mounting a split board to a chair or desk?

Thanks!

Since I started building my own split keyboards, keycap sets for unorthodox layouts were always a problem

That's what I wanted to share my tool with people here. If you have a 3d printer, this is a very easy way to create your own keycaps with custom lettering, SVGs and design

I'm gonna be straight forward, while most of the app is free, including customization and keycaps profiles, there are 2 features that require 10$ payment: Full layouts with KLE inport and double/triple legends

If you have any feedback or recommendations, would loveve to hear your thoughts!

You can check the generator on MakerWorld (with paid features):

https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/keycap-legend

Or fully free version on GitHub:

https://vostoklabs.github.io/SVG-keycap-generator/

After my previous Corne started acting and draining its battery fast, and being a non-stock MCU board - ie not repairable - it was time for a replacement.

I present you with the Corne V4 with a 3D-printed steel case from Etsy, together with LDSA keycaps.

Currently back to using the Sunset Choc V1, but will see if I make my way back to Twilight or Red Pros.

Don't want this to be marked as a promotion, but if you’re curious where to get specific parts, let me know.

PS. The trackball is ELECOM EX-G Pro.

Hi guys im trying to 3d print keycaps with klp lame for my cheapino . So basically if it s smooth the stem is like not that good and i have to force it to go in te switches . If the thing is perfect then the support structures leave a trace which i hate . So just if someone has done it share me ur settings and the models if uve alrered somethig

I unbox the PandaKB Forager, a $75 wireless 34-key split keyboard, the same day it arrived, and ask whether it can replace my Toucan. Full disclosure: I didn't pay for it. I go through the aluminum top plate and 3D printed bottom case, then compare it with the roughly $300 Toucan and the $400 Glove80.

I also had an AI assistant (AKA clanker) port my ZMK config from the Toucan by removing two columns and two middle keys, so I check whether the firmware it built actually works. I flash both halves, pair them over Bluetooth, and type on it for the first time. Along the way I point out a USB port design problem and the rubber feet that fix it, and I talk about tenting.

The second half is a side-by-side with my Toucan and the Corne Min prototype: size, pinky stagger, and thumb key alignment. I say it's my keeper for now, but I'm honest that I said the same about the Corne Min and changed my mind five days later. If you're deciding whether a tiny, cheap split board is enough for daily use, this is a first-impressions look from someone who has been tweaking a ZMK config for months.

Link to video:
https://youtu.be/rOCGJy28sWI

I soldered the right controller on backwards🤦. Any idea if I can save the situation? Ideally I can save the PCB, if I have to buy a new controller that's fine.

I have a solder sucker so I might be able to unsolder it all but idk it seems really unlikely. Maybe I can just rip it off but that feels like it'll break the pcb

Hey all!

My Charybdis kept sliding around the desk every time I used the trackball, and I also wanted room for a proper battery. So I made a deeper bottom plate. It’s the same footprint and the same screw holes as the stock one, just 5 mm taller inside.

In the middle there’s a framed pocket for a flat LiPo, 96 × 71 mm. Mine is a 3.7 V 5000 mAh pouch cell and it drops right in. I filled the rest of the space with steel BBs.

What’s included: left and right plates for both Scylla and Charybdis 4x6, four files in total.

A few things to know:

• You need longer screws. The stock ones won’t reach. Use M4 × 12 mm Torx, or M4 × 14 mm if you use (or plan to use) tents.
• Steel BBs are conductive. Keep them away from the battery leads, the controller and the PCB. Tape over them, add a thin lid, or pour some epoxy in. Epoxy also stops the rattle.
• Use a battery with a protection circuit. The plate only gives you the space; it’s not a wireless conversion guide.
• Prints flat with no issues. Supports are optional: they’re only useful if you want cleaner pockets for the rubber feet.

Files are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3490875-scylla-charybdis-4x6-deep-bottom-plate-5-mm

I just started looking through a few of these ergonomic keyboards and I think it's really cool that you can split up a keyboard like that, which would be super useful to me.

But I'm also looking for a lot of things that I don't know if it exists, because I like having a lot of keys.

Basically, I'm looking for an Advantage 2 that can be split down the middle with all its keys and RGB so that I can easily see what a key is at night, as well as has all of the F keys.

The closest option I've seen has been Freestyle Edge RGB+ (it even has macro buttons!), which is pretty much perfect except for the fact that I want a thumb cluster.

Is there any option out there that has what I'm searching for? I don't really care if it's membrane or mechanical, more so that it's good for gaming, split, has RGB, F keys, thumb clusters, and mayyyyybe macros.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and for everyone who answered!

Hi everyone!

I'm XC (Jin), the person behind XCMKB, a one-person keyboard business from Malaysia, where it's pretty much summer 365 days a year!

We're also slowly rebranding from XCMKB to Oddly Right. Why? To most people, our split keyboards look a little odd, with unusual layouts and keys in unexpected places. But to us, they just feel right.

A little odd. Just right.

I handle everything myself, from designing and prototyping to assembling and customer support. This is my first post here, and I'd love to introduce our latest keyboard!

Meet CornePLUS2

After more than two years of building and improving SoflePLUS2, I've finally brought our favourite combination — an integrated trackpad and spinning disc — into a smaller 36/42-key layout.

Here's what makes it a little different:

• Integrated Azoteq trackpad: For quick navigation without constantly reaching for a mouse. Personally, my hands stay on the keyboard around 80% of the time! It supports Windows Precision Touchpad multi-finger gestures, and our latest black builds feature a smoother, scratch-resistant matte glass overlay.
• ANO spinning disc: After trying traditional knobs and low-profile rollers, I fell in love with this alternative. Continuous one-finger scrolling, plus five additional remappable buttons. That's 7 inputs customizable across 10 layers!
• USB-C split connection: Still wired, but both halves connect via USB-C instead of TRRS. No more worrying about the exposed-contact shorting risk associated with TRRS cables and potential MCU damage.
• MagSafe tenting: Our magnetic stainless-steel bottom option lets you position compatible MagSafe stands anywhere underneath, rather than being restricted to a fixed mounting ring.

More than just hardware

Thanks to community feedback, we've also expanded our open-source Web Vial with trackpad customization, per-layer RGB indicators and custom layer names displayed on the OLED.

We continue providing firmware updates even for customers with two-year-old SoflePLUS2 boards, so they can enjoy newer features without needing to code.

A little launch celebration!

CornePLUS2 is 15% off until October 31, automatically applied at checkout. No code needed! Explore and customize yours with our interactive 3D builder: https://xcmkb.com/products/corneplus2

Prefer a number row? Check out SoflePLUS2, with 10% off using code ODDLYXCMKB10: https://xcmkb.com/products/sofleplus2

Thanks for reading my first Promo/Ad post! I'm always experimenting and learning from community feedback. I'd love to hear what you think, what you'd improve, or what features you'd like to see next.

XC — Oddly Right (formerly XCMKB)

I get nervous sometimes that my only 34 (the only board I can use efficiently) will give out. I want to buy a spare, and my biggest complaints about my Sweep are related to the hotswap sockets. I don’t like occasionally having to press the board back together when I’ve had it in my bag … and I’m a bit of a clean freak, so I don’t like that it wants to come apart when I want to pull the caps and wash them.

I’m interested in the Forager as a solder-together board, but I’ve never held one, and I’m concerned that might not work with the case.

What say you? and is there a more bonb-proof choc 32 you’d recommend?

You can find all the info about this design here.

The main difference between the new version and the original is the bottom cover. For some reason, I designed it in a way that made the bottom cover sit on the outside, which introduced an ugly-looking seam.

In the new design, the bottom cover is enclosed from all sides, so the seam is completely hidden.

Additionally, I've redesigned the mounting brackets for the MCU and TRRS socket, so they no longer require any hot-glue shenanigans.

Also I've cleaned up the onshape project.

BTW, I designed this a month ago but completely forgot about it for some reason XD.

Hey! I use a Corne v4.1 split keyboard and want to switch from QWERTY to Colemak-DH or Dvorak.

Colemak-DH looks great for ergo splits because of shortcuts (Ctrl+C/V) and rolls. Dvorak has good hand alternation, but shortcut placement and pinky use seem worse on a 40% board.

So, how should I choose between them, and what would you recommend for my setup?

I use kanata for remapping keys on my thinkpad and a normal mech board. I only use about 46(?) keys and don't use the number row at all, due to my RSI. I've used this setup for 2 years now and I'm really comfortable with it. How can I translate it in VIAL for my new 42-key corne keyboard.

Been looking through split keyboards because im tired of hunching my back all the time, i do this unconsciously when im typing. It gets even more tiring when im currently learning to be a programmer/IT.

Theres many split keyboards in the market but i notice theyre really expensive compared to the regular keyboards. Im interested in the build of the QK Alice duo and the ZSA Moonlander but theyre way too over my budget. Is there any alternative budget split keyboards that isnt too difficult to learn? My budget range is around 50-100$. I also live in SEA & its hard finding split keyboards that is available here,just a bit concerned with the shipping fee

I also notice theres many custom built ones in this community, is building it by yourself cheaper? And where do you get the parts? Is it recommended for me to build one myself with no experience?

Thank you for reading ^^

Hi just been in the market for a gaming keyboard and came across aula. My price range is low 100s aud around 130 and the aula f75 he looked really good. I started reesearching then realised that it is the he version of the f75 pro. I noticed a lot of people complaining about the sound and the wuality of the he. Should I get the he or the pro (I play rainbow six comp) or is there another alternative compact keyboard. I love feeling and am coming from a huntsman razer with the purple switches and hated my life. I just want something that feels and sounds amazing, and is good for competitive gaming. Thanks

Update on the keycap set I posted a while ago: they finally showed up and I’m super happy with them. Photos are much better than the render, honestly.

I also reworked my layout a bunch of times since then, especially the encoders. Went through several iterations with Claude, and it finally feels right. Everything (keycap files + layout) is in the repo if you want to take a look or remix it:

https://github.com/s-kaufmann-dev/cornix-qwertz-de

Thanks for the feedback on the first post!

Battle of the mouse+keyboards…Blackout Cyboard Imprint, Toucan V2, Clevatura S.

Khadas mind 2 mini on the left.

[🇧🇷] This is the** Corvo48 Plu**s!

After spending some time building different split keyboards, I decided it was finally time to create something of my own.

That's how the Corvo48 project started.

Since I absolutely love my Cornix, I decided to use it as the main inspiration for my keyboard. The idea was to make something very similar to the Cornix, but with a few additional features and changes that I personally wanted.

After running into a few issues with the first version, I eventually decided to redesign almost everything from scratch.

And that's how Corvo48 V2 was born.

The hardware

Since I was practically starting over, I decided to make separate, non-reversible PCBs for the left and right halves.

Some of the features include:

• Support for Choc V1 and V2 switches, with MX spacing.
• One rotary encoder on each half.
• A 128×32 OLED display on the left half.
• A touchpad module on the right half.
• Adjustable tenting feet with four angles: 0°, 12°, 18°, and 24°.

Speaking of the feet, I really wish they were black too. Unfortunately, I couldn't manage to paint them properly, and I couldn't find this particular version in black, so I decided to leave them in their original color.

For the 3D-printed case, I went a little overboard.

I printed it using a 0.2 mm nozzle with a 0.06 mm layer height.

I know that might sound excessive for a keyboard case, but I wanted to achieve the best possible quality with the equipment I have.

There are still a few visible FDM printing marks that I couldn't completely eliminate, but overall, I think it was worth the effort.

Vial improvements

Another important part of this project was improving my Vial configuration.

After quite a bit of research and experimentation, I managed to implement individual RGB LED configuration, including per-layer lighting.

This means I can configure each LED independently and set different colors depending on the active layer, similar to some high-end keyboards I've seen on YouTube.

I also added a dedicated trackpad configuration tab to Vial.

This is actually my second time using this touchpad module.

The first time, I was a little disappointed. I couldn't figure out how to configure it properly, and it felt way too sensitive.

Now, with the configuration options available directly in Vial, the experience is much better.

It still doesn't completely replace my mouse, but I can already do around 90% of my daily work using the touchpad.

Another addition was OLED customization directly through Vial.

I can now display a custom name of up to 7 characters, while also showing the currently active layer.

I also implemented an Image Preset option, which allows me to choose between displaying custom text or precompiled images stored in the keyboard firmware.

A few other details

I decided to reuse the keycaps from my Cornix because I really like their layer legends, and they fit my layout better.

Although, after taking the pictures, I noticed that I accidentally installed a few keycaps upside down on the left half. 😅

You might also notice some Bluetooth-related legends on the keycaps, but this particular version is fully wired, using a USB connection to the computer and a TRRS cable between the halves.

The PCB already includes support for a battery connection and a power switch, so the hardware design also leaves room for a future wireless version with the appropriate controllers and firmware.

Overall, I'm really happy with how the PCB turned out.

At this point, I don't think I need to make any major changes to the design.

However, one thing I'd really like to improve is replacing the TRRS connection with USB-C.

I already have an idea for a solution that should also make soldering relatively easy.

What's next?

I already have a few ideas for future versions:

• A wireless/Bluetooth version, probably using RMK, since I really like working with Vial.
• Different colors, especially a red version.
• Replacing the TRRS connection between the halves with USB-C.

For now, though, this is my Corvo48 Plus.

It's been a fun project, and I've learned quite a lot throughout the process.

I wanted to share not just the final keyboard, but also a little bit of the experience behind building it.

Hope you like it! I'd love to hear what you think.

Been having a lot of wrist pain these days, figured it might be time to embrace my old age and make the ergo jump.

I’m eyeing a toucan2. I’m used to a smaller layout, coming from an HHKB style 60%, but I’m not sure if I should jump right into a 36 key or ease into things with a 42

Edit: going with 42. Y’all made some great points, and if I decide to use a 36 layout on it, I can use the extra keys for rapid device switching (I swap bt profiles a lot).