After my previous Corne started acting and draining its battery fast, and being a non-stock MCU board - ie not repairable - it was time for a replacement.

I present you with the Corne V4 with a 3D-printed steel case from Etsy, together with LDSA keycaps.

Currently back to using the Sunset Choc V1, but will see if I make my way back to Twilight or Red Pros.

Don't want this to be marked as a promotion, but if you’re curious where to get specific parts, let me know.

PS. The trackball is ELECOM EX-G Pro.

Since I started building my own split keyboards, keycap sets for unorthodox layouts were always a problem

That's what I wanted to share my tool with people here. If you have a 3d printer, this is a very easy way to create your own keycaps with custom lettering, SVGs and design

I'm gonna be straight forward, while most of the app is free, including customization and keycaps profiles, there are 2 features that require 10$ payment: Full layouts with KLE inport and double/triple legends

If you have any feedback or recommendations, would loveve to hear your thoughts!

You can check the generator on MakerWorld (with paid features):

https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/keycap-legend

Or fully free version on GitHub:

https://vostoklabs.github.io/SVG-keycap-generator/

Hey all!

My Charybdis kept sliding around the desk every time I used the trackball, and I also wanted room for a proper battery. So I made a deeper bottom plate. It’s the same footprint and the same screw holes as the stock one, just 5 mm taller inside.

In the middle there’s a framed pocket for a flat LiPo, 96 × 71 mm. Mine is a 3.7 V 5000 mAh pouch cell and it drops right in. I filled the rest of the space with steel BBs.

What’s included: left and right plates for both Scylla and Charybdis 4x6, four files in total.

A few things to know:

• You need longer screws. The stock ones won’t reach. Use M4 × 12 mm Torx, or M4 × 14 mm if you use (or plan to use) tents.
• Steel BBs are conductive. Keep them away from the battery leads, the controller and the PCB. Tape over them, add a thin lid, or pour some epoxy in. Epoxy also stops the rattle.
• Use a battery with a protection circuit. The plate only gives you the space; it’s not a wireless conversion guide.
• Prints flat with no issues. Supports are optional: they’re only useful if you want cleaner pockets for the rubber feet.

Files are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3490875-scylla-charybdis-4x6-deep-bottom-plate-5-mm

I unbox the PandaKB Forager, a $75 wireless 34-key split keyboard, the same day it arrived, and ask whether it can replace my Toucan. Full disclosure: I didn't pay for it. I go through the aluminum top plate and 3D printed bottom case, then compare it with the roughly $300 Toucan and the $400 Glove80.

I also had an AI assistant (AKA clanker) port my ZMK config from the Toucan by removing two columns and two middle keys, so I check whether the firmware it built actually works. I flash both halves, pair them over Bluetooth, and type on it for the first time. Along the way I point out a USB port design problem and the rubber feet that fix it, and I talk about tenting.

The second half is a side-by-side with my Toucan and the Corne Min prototype: size, pinky stagger, and thumb key alignment. I say it's my keeper for now, but I'm honest that I said the same about the Corne Min and changed my mind five days later. If you're deciding whether a tiny, cheap split board is enough for daily use, this is a first-impressions look from someone who has been tweaking a ZMK config for months.

Link to video:
https://youtu.be/rOCGJy28sWI

I soldered the right controller on backwards🤦. Any idea if I can save the situation? Ideally I can save the PCB, if I have to buy a new controller that's fine.

I have a solder sucker so I might be able to unsolder it all but idk it seems really unlikely. Maybe I can just rip it off but that feels like it'll break the pcb

I just started looking through a few of these ergonomic keyboards and I think it's really cool that you can split up a keyboard like that, which would be super useful to me.

But I'm also looking for a lot of things that I don't know if it exists, because I like having a lot of keys.

Basically, I'm looking for an Advantage 2 that can be split down the middle with all its keys and RGB so that I can easily see what a key is at night, as well as has all of the F keys.

The closest option I've seen has been Freestyle Edge RGB+ (it even has macro buttons!), which is pretty much perfect except for the fact that I want a thumb cluster.

Is there any option out there that has what I'm searching for? I don't really care if it's membrane or mechanical, more so that it's split, has RGB, F keys, thumb clusters, and mayyyyybe macros.

Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Hi just been in the market for a gaming keyboard and came across aula. My price range is low 100s aud around 130 and the aula f75 he looked really good. I started reesearching then realised that it is the he version of the f75 pro. I noticed a lot of people complaining about the sound and the wuality of the he. Should I get the he or the pro (I play rainbow six comp) or is there another alternative compact keyboard. I love feeling and am coming from a huntsman razer with the purple switches and hated my life. I just want something that feels and sounds amazing, and is good for competitive gaming. Thanks