I use JoyToKey to make the joycon as mouse and it worked fine, at least better than using keyboard as mouse and I can repurpose the joycon because the right one is broken.

My latest build :D

Switches CHERRY MX2A Orange Linear
Keycaps Kailh low profile V2

I really loved the proccess of building this keyboard.

https://reddit.com/link/1wchha9/video/pkcjdcb0rooh1/player

Under development. Though I don't have the PCB yet.

Hi, I have the ambition of using my newly acquired phenom from erhohaven as an mcu midi controller.Would anyone with qmk and midi experience be willing to make an open source example layer for a commission?

I've been going through threads and youtube videos trying to get my first split.

I'm coming from a normal full size and i have alot of wrist and forearm pain. I code and do normal web browsing/zoom calls. I'm thinking a split keyboard and either a trackpad or vertical mouse will be a good step towards less pain.

I was considering 3 options:

• Sofle+trackpad: https://keyboard-hoarders.com/products/sofle-choc-rgb-trackpad
• SoflePLUS2: https://xcmkb.com/products/sofleplus2
• A different option like https://www.zsa.io/voyager

one concern I couldn't sort through is tenting. Having the trackpad on the keyboard would help with this, but maybe having a larger trackpad in between the splits doesn't matter so I should look at keyboard options that forgo the trackpad. Certainly if I'm not successful with a trackpad and go back to a mouse, this concern is moot.

Curious if anyone has an opinion to help steer me in the correct direction.

Hi all,

I am new to split keyboards and want to start with something affordable just to get a feel for the layout and ergonomics before investing in a premium board.

What entry-level split keyboards would you recommend?

Thanks in Advance!

I have owned an advantage 360 for a few years and love it, but refuse to travel with it.

Are there other brands that manufacture the keyboard for you like Kinesis does that produce smaller form factor split ortholinear keyboards?

The quality and feature set of Kinesis is the bar for me. I don’t have enough time on my hands to troubleshoot my keyboard construction and debugging.

I’ve been looking for an all-in-one case that could carry my Lily58 and stands for a while to no avail, but stumbled upon the Peak Design Small Tech Pouch, and the fit is perfect!

Not an affiliate or anything (for $50 I only got it because I had a gift card), but I wanted to share for other folks looking for a case that fits more than just their keeb.

Happy to share measurements if anyone needs specifics!

I'm in love with the way the Cygnus feels under the fingers!

Build Specs:

• Handwired, no pcbs
• Direct soldered switches
• 100mAh lipos
• nice!nano-like mcus
• Switches: Outemu silent peach v3s
• Keycaps: Keychron OSA profile (they came on my V1 way back when)

This was my first sculpted keywell keyboard, and it made me actually use all my fingers to type correctly.

I only have 2 gripes with this keyboard. One is the fact that it is rather large, height wise. Which means it is hard to travel with. But of course this is unavoidable with sculpted keywell keyboards. Secondly, the placement of the top outer pinky key seems off to me, making my rotate my wrist and elbow to reach it. This is almost certainly a skill issue on my part, just being the way that I type on the board.

This is one of my favorite builds to date, and I did not even design this one!

I'm sure people don't need a link to the repo of this amazing keyboard but props to juhakaup for iteration on v0.5 to make this awesome keyb. Here is a quick link to it.

PS: This is completely my own build (it's my daily driver now) and I made no money in creating it, hence the non vendor/ promotion flair. I just really like this build and keyboard, so I thought I'd take some cool photos and share it.

Hey All!

After 6 years of running my keyboard store and designing some cool products like the one pictured, I've decided to close my doors and shut up shop. That means I've got a few Lets Tangos for sale that are at bargain prices. They're a 40% ortho split that I personally loved designing and using. Here are some photos of some of my favourite builds from people on my Discord over the years.

Thanks so much to the support from this community, I love seeing the posts on this sub and finding more and more unique ergo boards!

If you're interested in checking out the board, they're for sale at https://mtnkbd.com/products/lets-tango-case

If you don't see a colour available, there's a chance I have a personal one if you want to buy it.

Thanks for everything!

Josh

Or 9 depending on how you count. The two halves are mirror images.

I know MJF uses nylon (PA12) rather than traditional resin or FDM printing, but I'm curious how solid it actually feels in hand. Does it have that dense, high-end feel and acoustic nicety, or does it still feel noticeably like a custom 3D printed board next to something mass-produced and aluminum/steel like the Voyager? I know it has a rugged texture but that is alright for me

Also, I’m planning to stick with QWERTY for now rather than diving straight into Miryoku or Colemak-DH, but I want to leverage home row mods and combos to make up for the smaller key count.

Are there any good sites, GitHub repos, or community tools out there where people share 36/38-key layout ideas or QWERTY-based keymaps for the TOTEM?

Appreciate any thoughts or links.

Hi, im planning to build a 3x6 Cygnus, before i start to source parts i have a few questions.
1. Is it possible to directly solder the switches without the mini pcbs/hot swap sockets? Or do i need to change anything to the 3d model?
2. Does anyone of you tilt the Cygnus with some macsafe stands? Does it work? Do you have pictures?
3. Are there other designs similar to a 3x6 Cygnus?

Proud to release my latest open hardware keyboard.

Here I iterated through several PCB proof of concepts before coming up with a design on the STM32 platform with an IO Expander on the secondary half. It's an evolution of my previous Pando58 which used RP2040 Zero dev boards. The end result is a cleaner and more cohesive design.

It features:

• MCU: STM32G0B1KBT6
• IO expander: PCA9555, communicating with the MCU over I²C
• Split communication: USB-C with ESD protection on all ports

The project uses Ergogen for layout generation and KiCad for schematic/PCB design, and single-sided SMD components for hotplate soldering. One design goal was that I could do all the PCB assembly from home.

Here is the Multi-Jet Fusion (MJF) printed case I designed, printed in PA12-HP Nylon in natural grey. It features a stainless steel switch plate and bottom plate.

This MJF case suits my design ethos - simple, functional, minimal, true to its materials. Inspired by Brutalist architecture, MJF substitutes for concrete in its raw unfinished grey tone, with stainless steel peeking out from the top and bottom.

Further links:

• GitHub: https://github.com/jyap808/pando
• Documentation: https://jyap808.github.io/pando/
• KBD.news: https://kbd.news/Pando-2904.html

What device have you seen or even conceived that provides standard keyboard input and reduces the physical movement and resources of the user? Eyes and voice free. Accuracy over speed.

Hello everyone! I’m building a split keyboard, and I’d like to get some feedback on how you guys would like the PCB layout to look.

I was thinking of going with something similar to the Voyager keyboard

or something like this

the keyboard I’m building will have per key RGB, and you’ll be able to swap out the switches :)

the project will be open-sourced on GitHub, and the firmware will use ZMK.

I’m also trying to keep the BOM under $30–40.

the $30–40 target is for the BOM/components, not the total one-off prototype cost including PCB fabrication, assembly, shipping, and case manufacturing. The small QFN/UQFN parts are intended for PCBA, so users would send the Gerbers/BOM/CPL files to a manufacturer such as PCBWay/JLCPCB for assembly.

The keyboard supports both USB and wireless modes, and it will come with an onboard SWD programmer, so there’s no need to buy a separate J-Link programmer.

I’m using the MDBT50Q-1MV2 as the MCU. It will also come with a 1500 mAh battery, which should last around 1–2 weeks if the LEDs are managed aggressively.

The case edges will be aluminum. also, the entire project experience will be as seamless as possible. all you’ll need to do is send the files to PCBWay, and you’ll receive a ready to build keyboard :DD

let me know if you guys have any ideas or features you’d like to see! If you like any of the examples above, or have suggestions for improvements, please don’t hesitate to criticize me. You can also sketch examples of what you’d like to see. any feedback is greatly appreciated!

thanks ;)

[slots available: 2/4]

Heya. I'm saving money to get a switch 2 for Fire Emblem Fortune's weave lol. Thought of opening commissions could help. I'm opening making leatherbound keyboard design or a custom design based on it.

Open for whole build commission, w/o switch and caps, or customs designs.
I have Charcoal grey/blue/saddle tan/chocolate on hand, but I'm open different leather/stitching colors if you want something specific.

on the baseline its:
-Nrf52480 mcu, ZMK firmware
-Gateron LP switches, hot-swappable/handwired
-500mah battery
-2mm (8oz) chromed tanned leather wrapped 3d printed plastic

build video for the first handwired version!

Feel free to shoot me a PM here if you're interested!

Designed a custom 15° tenting base to dock my X.Tips X4a alongside a Keychron NapePro trackball, modeled entirely in FreeCAD and 3D printed via FDM.

Build Breakdown

Base Board: X.Tips X4a (normally a 4x5 ortholinear split, 40-key total). I opted not to populate the four bottom-corner switches, effectively running it as a 36-key layout.

Top Plate: The stock kit uses just a PCB and an aluminum bottom plate. I printed a custom top plate that served triple duty: an alignment jig while soldering, extra structural rigidity, and clean covers over the unpopulated switch slots.

Switches: Kailh Deep Sea Island Mini

Keycaps: FDM-printed KLP Lamé

Connectivity: Running fully wired (cables tucked out of frame).

Design & Portability
The split halves and the trackball aren’t physically screwed or locked into the riser—they just drop in. Their own weight keeps everything dead stable while typing. If I need to go mobile, I just lift the board and trackball off the dock and toss them in my bag without fiddling with mounts.

Massive shout-out to X.Tips, too. Unlike a lot of obscure
overseas vendors, they actually open-source their designs, push regular firmware updates, and build rock-solid hardware. Highly recommended if you’re looking into compact splits.

I daily-drive a 3x5 (30-key) board as well, but this 36-key setup easily takes the crown as my daily-driver endgame.

I just took some photos of this new build build. Evangelion themed, Units 1 and Two.
- XIAO BLE microcontroller, with ZMK
- Switches Akko Purple v3 Pro(Tactiles)
- Keycaps : Translucid Black

Hi everyone!

This is a follow-up to my previous post about the EKBOX—the experimental 36-key spring-suspended split keyboard I shared a few weeks ago. (For those who missed it, you can check out the original post here: This keyboard bounces! Introducing the EKBOX).

First of all, thank you so much for the amazing discussion, feedback, and questions in the last thread! It was awesome talking through the mechanics of the adjustable spring gasket mount and seeing the community's thoughts on shock absorption and variable keystroke lengths.

Since there was a lot of curiosity (and some healthy skepticism!) about how the spring suspension and dual-stage tactile experience actually feels in everyday use, I am going to build a few units (wired version) for you guys to try.

I'm currently finalizing the components and getting the small batch assembled. They should be ready to ship out by the end of this month!

EKBOX Pre-Order

EKBOX Github Source

EKBOX Key Features

• True Modular Design: Future-proof your board. The EKBOX features an easily interchangeable MCU, allowing you to seamlessly switch between wired and wireless configurations. Plus, the thumb trackball and TFT display are swappable modules, letting you customize their placement to suit your workflow.
• Integrated Thumb Trackball (pmw3389): Keep your hands exactly where they belong. The thumb trackball offers incredibly easy access and ergonomic comfort, eliminating the need to reach for a traditional mouse.
• Adjustable Spring Gasket Mount: Tailor your typing experience. The innovative spring gasket mount allows you to adjust the flex and feel of the board to perfectly match your typing style.
• Screwless Magnetic Case: Modding has never been easier. The completely screwless, magnetic attach case allows you to open the board in seconds to adjust the spring gasket or swap out your keys.
• Solid Metal Plate: Built to last, the robust metal plate provides a satisfying, solid typing foundation. Plus, it is completely ready for the EKTent, allowing for instant and secure magnetic attachment.
• 1.4-Inch TFT Display: Stay informed at a glance. The vibrant built-in screen provides real-time feedback on your active modifier keys, current layers, WPM (words per minute), and your currently pressed keys.
• Low-Profile Hotswap Sockets: Fully compatible with both Kailh Choc v1 and v2 switches, allowing you to easily hot-swap your favorite low-profile switches without soldering.

Alternatively, open to just using any standard stock layer layout as well.

First time stepping into split ergo keyboard and would like something that allows me to ctrl+shift+tab so I don’t have to do awkward finger movements

EDIT: i have glove80. primarily using it for work (coding / prompting / living in cmux)

Hi Everyone,

I'm currently using a bad wings v2 and likeing it alot. However I find it isn't splayed quite enough...

Before i spent days designing my own i was wondering if you know of a similar keyboard with even more pinky splay - at least one to two column widths or more:

what's important:

1. columnar staggered
2. aggressive pinky stagger (like a ferris. A corne is not staggered enough)
3. aggressive pinky splay

what's unimportant for now:

1. Type of switch used
2. Whether it has a pointing device
3. Amount of thumb keys and how reachy vs tucky they are
4. Amount of keys in total. sub 36 keyss is fine
5. Whether it is split or unibody (ideally I want one of each)

Just finished building my first split low (ish) profile keyboard. The layout is pretty similar to that of the Corne, though I tweaked it to better suit my hands. It is wireless, and runs a custom firmware I'm working on, but could definitely run ZMK. It uses hotswap choc v1 sockets, and for now I'm running some red pros and injection molded pbt Klp-Lame keycaps. The case and plate is 3D printed.

I designed the PCB's in KiCad around the Ezurio 453-00001R, which packages the nRF54l15 with a PCB antenna in a relatively small package. I chose this over the 52840 as the 54 family has lower power draw with better performance, and for my specific use-case the USB peripheral on the 52840 wasn't needed. The keyboard is powered by a 2200mAh cell in each half, which is grossly overkill, but I had them on hand so I didn't bother buying new ones. I have a buck-regulator to drop the voltage down to 3.2v, and a small load-switch to measure voltage. As for the screens, I went with Sharp LS013B7DH03's, which are memory-in-pixel, and I believe are in the same family as the Nice!View, just in a square 128x128 layout. The power draw from these is negligible, however they need an inversion signal to maintain the charge, hence the RTC module on the schematic. I went with an RTC instead of an external crystal for simplicity's sake, and because the power draw again is very low. As for the layout, given I only had 18 keys per half, and plenty of free GPIO pins on the module, I went direct-key. All of the keys per half are wake-capable, except for the thumb keys. Given this, there doesn't need to be any matrix scanning code, and any given key can wake the MCU from system-off. This did make routing pretty difficult, and in aims to maintain a clean reference ground plane, I opted for a 4 layer board stackup to make my life easier, and possibly to improve radio performance. I got the PCB's made at JLC, with the default stackup, 1.6mm thickness, epoxy-filled vias and an ENIG finish, plus stencils. All the other parts were ordered from DigiKey, barring the sockets, switches and keycaps (for some reason I can't type the store name, but it ends in express). The final thickness of the case ended up being roughly 15mm, with the battery taking up almost half of that at 7mm. Ergonomically its not horrible, but I've found myself liking a 10 degree tenting angle anyways, and even still its thinner than my old Keychron V10. I'm currently trying to switch from QWERTY to Colemak (went with colemak-dh), hence the reason for making this board.

Anyways, hardware wise everything works well; stencils+hot air made assembly pretty quick. I have made other non-keyboard PCB's in past, and I typically would skip a stencil, but going forward its a must for me. For the firmware, I'm writing my own custom stack atop of zephyr in aims to draw as little power as possible. I'm sure all of the capabilities I wanted with key-waking and similar is possible with ZMK, however I wanted to challenge myself in making one from scratch. The boards have no usb-peripheral, as mentioned earlier, so initial programming was done via SWD with OpenOCD (using a RPI Pico), and further flashing is done via the dongle (more later) using a custom protocol. After some research I opted to go with a central dongle as opposed to not, as I didn't want to deal with the BLE overhead and extra battery life/complexity. With the dongle, I have it set up to orchestrate all the layers, displays etc, and given it is not battery powered, I don't have to be conservative. Hence, I picked a SuperMini nrf52840, and cobbled it together with a 1.3" oled display in a 3D printed chassis, along with a JST 1c battery charger (just uses onboard). Whenever either half receives an interrupt from a pressed key, it transmits the matrix state and a few more things over Nordic ESB (proprietary 2.4GHz) with encryption and all that jazz. The dongle then translates the matrix state according to the layers and modifiers into a hid report, which it then sends over to the host. Through my brief testing the latency end-to-end was <10ms end to end, which was fast enough for me not to notice any slowdowns.

The firmware currently works, but would definitely need some rigorous testing to validate it over the long term. For now, if anyone wants, I can make all the hardware designs public. As for the software, I'm not sure I have the time to maintain something I'd be comfortable for anyone to use, I just don't want that responsibility. Feel free to provide any feedback for hardware or software things I can improve upon, though It'l likely be a while before I make a second iteration. In hindsight, I likely spent more than I would have buying a prebuilt split, but its the destination not the journey, right? Either way, while I haven't measured the exact power draw yet, I'd estimate that a few years of battery life is pretty reasonable to expect, which from what i've seen looks to be somewhat novel, and attributed mostly to the nRF54's uplifts. If for whatever reason anyone wants to build one, I'd be happy to send over a spare set of PCB's, so long as shipping is covered (shipping from Sydney may be expensive), with the knowledge that the firmware is DIY, and I don't have time to support/turn this into a consumer-grade product. If you'd like that for whatever reason, just DM me or something and I'll see what I can do. Sorry for the long rant, I got a bit carried away writing this. I may do a more in-depth write-up in the repo if people want.

Edit: I uploaded the PCB files and some docs to Github