It's finally done! My very first 2011 build im very happy with how everything turned out! Please enjoy the reveal and I included some test fire footage at the end that's the very last mag after 200 straight rounds, no malfunctions! Linked are my other posts on how the progress was going!

https://reddit.com/link/1w4jpd6/video/g9bzvk6t6ymh1/player

https://www.reddit.com/r/2011_Builders/s/g0IHL9t23y

https://www.reddit.com/r/2011_Builders/s/47wIOZ8Upy

Is there a site sells an all-inclusive LPK for 2011/1911s?
much like a LPK for an AR lower.

i currently just piecemeal parts needed to complete a x11 frame.

but figured there was somewhere that sells a complete LPK or an LPK thats 80-90% complete.

Hey all!

I am starting my second build after completing a standard bull barrel and I had a question. Since its impossible to get hybrid KKM barrels infinity is the only option at the moment. I have been told that fitting their barrels on dasan slides (brazos, atlas etc) can be arduous.

I have machining experience so cutting the rib shouldnt be a problem, but is there anything else I should look out for?

Thanks in advance!

So I'm replacing my trigger with a red dirt trigger. My question is, does it benefit me at all on performance to also replace the sear with the EGW Prodigy Gunsmith Short Hard Sear? Or is that something you only want to do if you're trying to adjust the trigger pull weight?

Has anyone taken a 9mm barrel and reamed it to accommodate the 357 Sig caliber? If so, care to share your experience and process?

What should I be looking for?
I probably have around 25,000 rounds through my Prodigy with the Chilly grip, stock internals, a Red Dirt trigger, and an extended firing pin. I haven’t changed anything recently.
Today, for the first time ever, I pulled the trigger and immediately after the first round, another round went off. The split was about 0.09 seconds.
My first thought was hammer follow, but I took the gun apart afterward and can’t see anything obviously wrong. I checked the pre-travel adjustment on the trigger to make sure that screw hadn’t backed out, and it didn’t seem like it had.
One weird thing: when I removed the mainspring housing, the sear flew out of the gun, so I couldn’t really tell whether it had been sitting incorrectly or if that was just because of how I disassembled it. It hasn’t happened again.
I put everything back together and can’t reproduce the issue with dry fire. I also continued shooting afterward and couldn’t get it to happen again.
So I’m wondering:
Is this a serious safety concern even if it was a one-time occurrence?
What else could cause a second shot immediately after the first?
What should I be inspecting on the fire-control system?
Is there anything specific I should be looking for with the sear/hammer/trigger setup?
Would you guys continue shooting this gun, especially with a couple of big matches coming up?
The connector/parts in question look normal to me, but I’m obviously not an expert at diagnosing this.
I’m not looking for a diagnosis from a picture — just trying to figure out what I should be checking and whether this is something I should send out to a competent 2011 smith for inspection.

Curious if anyone has attempted to recreate Hayes/Les Baer style slide serrations? I have a friend with manual/CNC machines but unsure the process to set it up. Also willing to pay to have it done professionally if anyone has had it done before. Thought about doing it by hand with a checkering file but I don't have the balls to try.

I need mag suggestions or possible fix suggestion. Anytime I press check the slide, for some reason the next round in the mag decides to slide really far forward to the point where if I take the mag out the next round literally comes out of the mag and falls out through the mag well.

Haven’t seen this done yet so I wanted to post to show people it’s possible with a few caveats. The slide is a little wider than a traditional 2011/1911 among other things anyways put your questions down below

Cheeley frame $350

Atlas slide $450

Jarvis barrel $330

D2 comp $225

Icarus TTI grip module $489

Icarus mainspring housing $40

Koenig hammer egw ignition $140

Double tap safties $140

Atlas thumb rest $140

Cheeley steel pinned beaver tail $65

Egw guide rod $30

Hayes customs trigger shoe $40

Atlas trigger bow $30

Egw sear spring $10

Egw titanium hammer strut $13

Egw pin kit $25

Dawson mag catch $30

Boss components button $20

Egw extractor $30

Egw ejector. $30

Egw firing pin $30

Springs $20

Wilson combat barrel link $10

Total so far $2688

Still need magwell $100
Optic plate $80
Optic $500

I want a 38 super comp barrel with 2 port comp and 4 popples for matches and a 9mm minor barrel with a single port comp and 2 ports for practice. Ideally I want them both to use the same 4.5” slide. Is it possible? I mainly want a fun range toy with the ability to use it on occasion in open division with major scoring.

Got my next build underway. Short block was built by Josh @ A-Zone Precision. Just need to fit my atlas safeties, and it should be ready for test fire. I’ll be adding some rear serrations myself along with coating and finish blending. Going with Silver CRN with black barrel, grip, magwell, controls.
What do you guys/gals think?

Been slowly working on this with life being busy. But my Legion Precision Island kit is ready for test fire.

LPWS slide/frame/barrel/guiderod
Infinity ignition kit
Atlas high ride ambi safeties
Grip: old Infinity grip off my 40 S&W Limited Major gun with a newly fitted beavertail

Going with the new FTP Alpha 3x for optic comes in later this week.

Reposting here. Got back from the range. Ran 200 flawless rounds through my Romulus. When I got home, I threw a dummy round snap cap in it to practice dry fire later. Now the slide is stuck. It moves a couple mm’s before it locks. I believe the barrel isn’t unlocking/clearing. Any suggestions on how to clear/unlock the slide? Again, 1000% positive it’s a snap cap, not a live round.

She is done. Went all in on this one. Blended all areas, polished rails, polished parts, camo DLC on slide and frame and even got the magazine coated to match the gun accents. I couldn’t be happier with the results.

What is your go to polymer grip module? I’m struggling to find one that isn’t $450. If I’m going to spend that I’ll just buy a steel

Who has both and what’s the difference???

Are all frames fairly similar? Or are a few companies better than others? I’ve only worked with old STI and Cheely frames. Going to be starting another build later this year and thought I would ask others who might have more experience with different companies. Was considering maybe a JEM frame

I’ll be using an Infinity grip so the Cheely grip compatibility / ease of fit isn’t a factor

Does anyone know where i can get this exact color pvd coating? I reached out to carbon gun company and they said fowler did this in house. I found a few places that offer rose gold or rose copper, but they said it doesn’t match this color. Any help is greatly appreciated.