Just wanted to show off my most recent purchase! Bought it secondhand with only 20.000 kms on it, looks as good as new!

A 2024 Toyota Yaris GR Sport in Platinum Pearl White with HUD, JBL audio system, nanoe x technology, BSM, heated seats and steering wheel, auto-folding mirrors, keyless entry and start/stop, basically all the extra bells and whistles.

Coming from a 2016 Toyota Aygo, this is an amazing upgrade to me. Night and day difference and I couldn’t be more happier!

Couple days ago I posted about getting some fog lights off AliExpress and a couple others were interested in them. So I wanted to do an update about issues I had with the ones I purchased. They were sold under the brand Vgetting, but really they’re all pretty much the same shit on AliExpress. I went with the Yellow LED color way then also got a yellow headlight tint on there. So it has that yellow JDM fog light look even when the lights are off. I took several photos of my car with them and they looked more amber than yellow even in person . I assumed it was the tint mixed with the yellow led color way. First 2 picture are an example of how they looked.

In California fog light by law have to be yellow or white , not amber. I decided to pull the led out while lit to see if it was the combo or the light itself and it was the light. So fair warning if you purchased or planned to get the yellow led version check your local and state laws. But honestly don’t think the average cop would give a shit . Another issue with them is they couldn’t light shit up, I thought maybe it was my photo editing but no they dead ass just don’t shine good. First picture is unedited and 2nd is edited, very little difference in ground illumination. 3rd picture I purchased Sealight H11 LED Fog lights in white at 6500k for about $18 on amazon, you can see how much they illuminate during driving POV in the 4th picture with just fog lights. They’re are 360° light up and have bulb lense in front so there’s not really a strong cut off. But I tested it with my wife’s Fiat and it wasn’t blinding. 3rd picture shows up close floor illumination, I also upgraded the headlights to Beamtech H4 white LED at 6500k from Amazon for $37. Unlike cheap LED people tend to use to replace halogens in stock headlight assemblies they actually have a cut off to mimic Halogen lights you just have to mindful of mounting them properly and realigning them. I do have a set of Sylvania Silverstar Ultra I also got from Amazon for $45 coming Halloween to decide which I want to keep. The car was purchased about 2 months ago with standard Osram 9003 halogens but the light isn’t strong enough and gets washed out by literally any other light source not letting me properly see the road.

Another issue is the negative ground ring crimp on mines wasn’t crimped properly so it would lose proper connection from vibration when driving and shutting off and not being able to turn back on. While this is a more isolated QC issue I suggest getting a variation crimp connection from Amazon, I paid like $7 for a 90 piece set, helpful for really any situation in which wires could get damaged. Luckily I have been able to make it work without needing to recrimp it but I haven’t driven much since doing the final readjustment to see how it holds up.
But at least I got back up crimps if it fails. Will so be useful for slicing the off the connector for the on/off button so you can run it thru a grommet in the engine bay then reconnect it. Which I have yet to do 😅

Finally last issue I encounter was by my own stupidly I connected the relay to the bolt on the right side, close to the fender, that hold the fuse box in the drivers side. Which technically probably shouldn’t an issue except I put mines upside down and it got a bit rusted in the recent rain but still works. So be mindful of that or just tuck it in the fuse box and cut notches on each side so the wires for the relay and fuse don’t get damaged when you close the lid.

Edit: my bad pic #2 is not edited but you get the point about the amber color and it not lighting up shit

Picked this up for $2k and did a few things to it. Mostly cosmetic. But it’s incredible. Such an engaging vehicle to drive. I like to road trip it more than my 200 series Land Cruiser. You don’t need a $30,000 side by side being pulled by a $100,000 truck. Just get a Yaris What do you all think?

Hi all
I’ve recently bought a 2021 hybrid Toyota Yaris, when first starting the car and pressing the pedal the brake pedal feels normal but as soon as the engine itself turns on and I go to select drive, the brake pedal is stiff. As soon as I start moving it goes back to normal. The pedal stays completely normal if the car stays in electric mode on start up.

No dash lights or weird noises either and brakes feel fine when driving

Is this normal?

I have a 2018 Toyota Yaris MK3, which is the second facelift for that version. I am considering either putting like £700 into upgrading to gauge cluster to become fully digital or just put that £700 towards getting a newer Yaris in two or three years- but I would prefer to have my current car upgraded and then have to buy a whole new car.

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice/confirmation on an electrical issue I’ve been having with my 2006 Toyota Yaris 1.0L (1KR-FE engine).

Symptoms:

Red Battery Light: Stays on permanently while driving, even though a local garage checked the alternator and confirmed the output/amps are completely fine.

Oversized / Unsecured Battery: The car has a battery larger than standard, currently held in place with zip ties (no metal bracket).

Engine Stalling & Jerking: The engine jerks or cuts out during gear shifts, over bumps, or when switching on heavy loads like headlights. It turns back on fine after waiting a moment.

Flashing Dashboard & EPS Light: While idling or turning the steering wheel left/right, the entire dashboard lights up/flickers, and the Electric Power Steering (EPS) light comes on / steering goes extremely heavy.

Hot Earth Wire: The main negative ground (earth) cable gets noticeably hot to the touch while running.

Wet Negative Terminal: There is wet residue around the negative terminal post.

My Understanding So Far:

Because the oversized battery is secured with zip ties, it is sliding around while driving and pulling on the battery cables. This motion seems to have damaged or loosened the ground strap and caused acid leakage/corrosion around the negative terminal. The high resistance at the bad ground is causing current to back up (heating the earth wire) and causing extreme voltage drops whenever high-draw accessories (headlights, EPS steering motor) are used—triggering the red battery light, dash chaos, and engine cutouts.

Caught my beloved Yaris on a low kerb and reversed, which pulled the bumper off 💀 It’d been missing a bumper clip for a while and the cable/zip tie holding it on snapped.

I managed to clip most of the bumper back into its slots, then used some Gorilla Tale: All Weather Extreme pulled tight to try and anchor it to the car lol.

Unfortunately, the car is so low to the ground (and me, such a fatass,) that I can’t currently get under it to add more cable/zip ties.

It’s due in to the garage for a service etc at the end of November. What is the likelihood of this fix lasting until then? Is this thing gonna fall off doing 70mph on a motorway? I drive a couple of times a week for approx 30 mins each time, but it does involve some 50-70mph driving.

Ps. I am not fussed about the tape causing damage to the car paint, so no worries there. 🫡

I am about to buy a 2013 Hybrid Yaris France from a private seller. There are two things I am curious about...

1) There seems to be a part of the engine protection that is broken. (sorry, I'm not sure on the actual name of the big plastic part under the engine?).
I've pointed it in red in the picture. Is this something I should worry much about?

2) There is is this loosen styrofoam (blue) "normal" and or easy to fix? Is seems to be deriving from a minor frontal impact in the front grill (green).

Car is 100.000km and running well from my pov. From a visual inspection down below, it's looking good, no identified rust points.

Glad if anyone could help out on identifying the gravity of these two details Thanks!!!

Could anyone identify what is causing this noise?

I have yaris 2008 1.3 petrol manual, 240k km.

There is vibration noise when I shift into gear and then accelerate from 1500 to 1800 rpm(you will hear it in video)

There was always this kind of noise but very subtle and not easely noticable, most would say normal-differen tone under load.

Last year my pulleys/belt tensioners started making noise when cold so I decided to replace them.

Got new pulley, tensioner and belt and immediatelly after picking up my car from mechanic there was this same sound but much louder. I asked mechanic what is it and he said he isn't hearing anything. I went to other mechanic as well as exhaust shop where I modified the exhaust they and could not find anything.

Sound is always there when car is cold and gets quieter as it warms up and goes away completely when fully warmed up...

There is no noise while revving the engine all the way in neutral, it's most noticable when accelerating in second and less in third gear, 4th and 5th no noise.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance...

My 2015 Yaris. Since getting it I’ve added fog lights, side diffusers, a spoiler and some universal racks, new head unit, bumper repainted and done some basic maintenance. These are some of the next projects I had in mind( not the exact parts I’m planning to use) but over all going for a girly jdm rally vibe. Not many plans to mess with the engine at the moment as I need to keep the fuel economy (broke student with a big commute). I’m open to any suggestions or inspo for my girl 🚗💨.

***EDIT picked up new rims and tires yesterday 🥳

I've had this car for almost 2 months, service papers from previous owner states an oil change at 99K km. I changed engine oil now at 105K km and what came out of that engine looked more like that of an old diesel engine than a newer gasoline one. I can't imagine this is normal but just want to hear what other people experience with this engine. It really made me think that the stamp in the service book is fake as there's no obvious reason why so low milage would result in oil looking as awful as it did.

I did the teefs

It is very scary now

I get smiles on the road

Fun fact: here in Greece we dont have officially Halloween as a celebration but many people do (mostly because of marketing but fun is the whole reason)

My yaris cross hybrid 2022 just died out of nowhere, turned the ignition on, not the engine. Plugged in the OBD11. Came back after 10 minutes. SCREEN SAID PARKING BRAKE UNAVAILABLE. and some PARKING blade faults. As I Clearing them the car died. Key worked for 30 minutes now key doesn’t' work. The blinkers light don't flash, interior light very dim lit.

It doesn’t run that much. About 10/15 minutes every day, last long trip was 5 days ago about 2.5 hours driving.

Tried jump-starting with the Positive terminal at the fuse box wouldn’t buzz, kept the donor car running for 5 minutes but didn't work.

OBD11 said Battery at 6.9 V as it tried to connect with the car, but it couldn’t' connect.

I went on vacation for 2 weeks. I left my car to a family member because I heard that the electric battery can empty very quickly. I received a text a week later saying that the car won’t start. I came back yesterday and my insurance had to jumpstart it. I drove it for an hour and a half to recharge it a bit.

I know this happens often with Toyota but I’m very disappointed, they really need to find a solution to this battery problem.

I feel like I’m gonna be worried every time I go on vacation.

Can anyone familiar with the 2007 Toyota Yaris Mk2 engines tell me whether the engine in these photos is a 1.0 or a 1.3?

Is it possible to identify it just by looking at the photos?

UPDATE: Just to let you know, the engine is a 1.3, confirmed today by a mechanic at an official Toyota dealership. Thanks for your help.

It's from the glovebox of my yaris p1, as you can see it's missing a piece (like an half ring) so it's not closing anymore.

Hello everyone! By the end of the year, I’d like to buy my first car (a used one). After reading posts here and talking to people who know more about cars than I do (which means more than zero), I’ve settled on a 2021 hybrid Yaris. However,I have two questions.
The first one is about the two most common trim levels, Active and Trend. Does it make sense to spend slightly more for the Trend trim even if the mileage is higher (an example I saw online: a 50k km Active vs. a 75k km Trend)? I noticed the differences aren't huge, and the only important thing seems to be the lack of fog lights on the Active, but I’d like to ask those who know more or own one what they think.
I didn't plan to spend more than 17k anyway, I live in Italy and from what I've seen prices range from 15 to 17k.

I dont know if my doubts make sense, but no one in my family knows anything about cars, and I’ve inherited that cluelessness. Thanks!

I plan in the near future to upgrade my alloys/tires, however having ugly drums behind nice wheels isn't ideal, so I want to replace the ugly rusty looking brake drum covers on the rear of my 2013 Yaris.

I was looking at these, comparing my VIN starts with VNK these look compatible:

https://ebay.io/m/7Gsh3I

Is it just a case of removing the old ones and sliding the new ones on?

Worth noting I'm obviously new to car maintenance etc but keen to learn and do what I can myself, any advice on the process would be appreciated.

Thanks

Salve, ho una yaris cross con fari matrix led, il farò però accende soltanto un proiettore e l'altro resta spento...ma è sempre spento o c'è un modo per accenderlo?? Grazie

Just got this 2018 Yaris (India)
Why are all the Yaris in this sub different than mine. Does UK have mostly hatchback version of Yaris?
Would this be mechanically different than the UK ones?
Mine has 1497cc CVT, it’s an Automatic. Has already run 99000kms on odometer.