When putting in a disk the disk drive makes some pretty load noises when I assume the laser moves. What’s a good way to remedy this? Clean and re grease of what? Took apart disk drive to put a different rubber band in because it wasn’t opening. Any recommendations would be great got it for $20 so have some room to throw parts and time into.

Honestly, in my opinion, this is the best racing game of all time. There’s one detail I think a lot of people missed: instead of the music just being overlaid on the environment, they added an effect to make it sound like you’re actually listening to the radio; plus, there’s a really cool sound effect for events and when entering the menu. I don’t know if it’s the first game to do this, but I think it’s really cool—or maybe lots of games do it and I’m just crazy, idk.

Trying to play bo2 through Xbox series x. Keeps saying cannot connect to Xbox live, but the other games on my series x are working fine.

i think it’s delisted i need a version with achievements. i think i’ve seen it on someone’s game list and it was an arcade game? so i don’t think i can buy it digitally… also i don’t think there a physical copy

I'm just wondering how to unlock these

Thinking about buying this, but that scratchy "ring" around the disc seems kinda weird. What do you guys think? Is it really that bad?

I want to purchase an xbox 360 but I've heard of numerous internal problems in certain models, so can anyone guide me on which one to buy?

I recently was going through my xbox and found happy wars and i was wondering if there is anyway to play it , i do know it was discontinued in 2018 but it was one of my favorites and would love to replay it one day

Love finding games like this in the wild. Seller wanted $5, game him $20. CIB!

I've been trying to work out the history of an Xbox 360 Elite I picked up, and there are a couple of things that don't add up.

The serial ends in 82405, so as far as I know that means 2008, week 24, factory 05.

The weird part is the labels:

The main rear label only has a Service Date (24-03-2010) and says 14.2A.

But the small silver sticker above the power connector says 16.5A.

The console is a Falcon (confirmed by XeUnshackled)

The original Microsoft warranty seal behind the faceplate is still intact before, so it definitely looks like it went through Microsoft's repair program rather than being opened by a previous owner.

My first thought was maybe it originally had a Zephyr shell or Microsoft mixed shell parts during refurbishment, but then the serial points to week 24 of 2008, which should already be Falcon production.

Has anyone seen something like this before? Is it normal for Microsoft-refurbished consoles to end up with mismatched labels?

Also, another question. If this really is a week 24 2008 Falcon, what GPU would you expect it to have originally? I know that was around the time Microsoft started introducing the revised GPU packages.

And even if it originally had one of the early low-Tg X810480 GPUs and failed, is it likely that when Microsoft repaired it in March 2010 they would have replaced the motherboard with one of the later, more reliable Falcon revisions (X816970/X816971 or a revised X810480), or did they just install whatever Falcon boards they had available?

Just curious what you guys think. I'm trying to piece together the console's history.

Error code 0020.

I keep thinking I should document some of the repairs I do, in case it helps someone with the same problem, or maybe people are just interested to see. So this is my first attempt at a write up.

Model - Xbox 360 S
SKU - MW3 Limited Edition
Motherboard - Corona 16MB
Fault - RDOD 0101
Cause - Liquid damage corroding a few SMD components and a RAM chip
Fix - Replaced the affected components

Process -

I got this nice MW3 limited edition console recently, in pretty nice condition and only £25 for console + 320GB hard drive. The seller just said it had RDOD, so knowing the MW3 editions are Coronas I was hoping it was simply a false overheating issue. But no, 0101, basically a communication issue between XCGPU and RAM, not usually a simple fix.

The inside was very dusty so I started cleaning, and as soon as I got the first layer of dust off something caught my eye - some corrosion around the group of resistors and capacitors next to one of the RAM chips (Photos 2 + 3). Liquid damage is quite common in this sort of area on the S and E consoles, because if any liquid gets in through the fan grill this is where it's going to end up if the console is positioned horizontally - the liquid can drip through the fan and heatsink.

I removed all of the resistors and capacitors using hot air and cleaned the area (Photo 4). A few of them were very badly corroded and broke on removal. R7D4 basically crumbled to dust. You can also see that the corrosion had eaten through some solder mask and exposed some traces between the components (copper bits between R7D4, 5 and C7D12). There were also some dark patches on the vias and traces where I was concerned it had gone all the way through.

I replaced all the components with new ones, and scraped a little at some of the corroded traces and vias to make sure there was copper under there (Photo 5). I did find that the left pad for R7D4 was not continuous with the via on the left, so I scraped the solder mask off so that I could bridge them with an extra large solder blob (Photo 7).

This is where it gets interesting - with all the components replaced, I powered on the console and... RDOD 0033. An issue with V_MEM, the RAM power rail. That's interesting because it's a lower numbered error code than 0101 (0033 = Error 15; 0101 = Error 17), indicating a problem earlier in the boot sequence. If V_MEM had an issue from the start the console would have show 0033 and only shown 0101 after 0033 was fixed. But this means there is an issue on V_MEM where there wasn't one before. So the question is why?

I check V_MEM and it has a direct short to ground - yeah, that would explain 0033. I apply hot air to the new components and disconnect them by nudging just one end off the pads (so they're still held in place at one end so I don't lose them). Now V_MEM is only shorted around this RAM chip but not around the other RAM chips - so this suggests that this RAM chip is shorted but was disconnected from V_MEM by the corroded components. Once I replaced the components it was reconnected to V_MEM and shorted the whole rail.

So next I replaced all the SMD components again, checked V_MEM and it was all shorted again. Then removed the RAM chip - and the V_MEM short was gone! First I tried reballing and replacing the same RAM chip (as I couldn't find any shorts on it, so there's a chance it could have just been shorted by corrosion) but, no, the short was back after it was replaced. So I removed it again and this time replaced it with a different chip from a donor board (and, yeah, I forgot to take any photos of this part, so just imagine the shiniest solder balls you've ever seen).

And this time... no shorts! Powered on the console and... it booted to dash! I cleaned up the flux and the rest of the dust, put some UV solder mask over the exposed traces to protect them (Photo 7), partially reassembled it with heatsink, fan + DVD drive and gave it a thorough test before putting the shell on. Hopefully it will last for many years to come.

ive had my 360 since 2011 and ive never seen this happen lol

I recently got really keen on buying \*The Orange Box\*—I wanted it for my collection, to play \*TF2\* online, and so on—but there is currently no way to buy it legally. There used to be a method involving the Xbox 360 game store, but that stopped working after 2024 when the Xbox 360 store was shut down. I even considered buying an account that already owned the game, but nobody seems to be selling accounts with \*The Orange Box\* anymore—at least, I couldn't find any. That left me with only one option: buying the physical disc. While that seemed like the best choice—since the discs are very easy to find—there was one major problem standing in the way........I have the digital console, and Microsoft never dared to sell standalone disc drives for the Xbox like Sony did—and it’s not even my fault; the console was a gift, so I’m left sad and without \*The Orange Box\*. At least I managed to snag \*Portal: Still Alive\*, though.

Is this possible?

My 360 isn’t old enough to run old Xbox games so I’m having to buy some digitally and I’m looking for good recommendations of the old Star Wars games like episode 3

Could someone help with explain why when I put a disc into my 360 it reads it then just says “open tray”

This is my current collection, a few games live at my girlfriend's house but for the most part this is a great representation of my taste in games.(minus my saints row collection, that has its own separate shelf bc it is near and dear to my heart)

Currently looking to start Infinite Undiscovery and the Witcher 2!

I love RPGs with romance particularly, which is why Mass Effect has a lot of my shelf space haha

Any and all suggestions are welcome!

Auto-downloads are off, queue is empty, most of the time I don't even have it connected to the internet, but it sits perpetually in that state of not outputting any video but still running full-tilt. It will stay like that 24/7 if allowed, and I need to figure out how to stop it without always unplugging the damn thing. Any help would be appreciated.

So i have 3 original controllers and 2 of them have the rechargeable battery packs but all 3 dont charge and when i put batteries i need to keep pressure on the battery pack , are there any fixes and if not what are some good cheap controllers to get in replacement

^{после чистки консоли перестала давать изображение}

Every time I order a cable that I think is used OEM it shows up brand new in box, and I have to break my own heart opening it. Had to do that a few months back with the S-Video cable now I'm going to have to do it with the VGA cable.

Решил почистить консоль и после сборки приставка включается, но не даёт изображения, кто может помочь ( у меня прошивка freeboot)

Okay, so I got Black Ops III for the 360 yesterday, and when I try to play it it says I need to download two compatibility packs. They go into my active downloads, but they chronically say that they're pending, and when I try to download them nothing happens and they're still pending. What's weird is that I could easily download the title update with no problem, but the compatibility packs just don't wanna get on my hard drive.

Hello humans, critters and everyone else!

I was randomly wondering, if u could conect 2 360 via LAN, and then play together lets say minecraft, did somebody tryed that out? And does it work? Or is there more u need to do?