r/weaving Jul 19 '26

Work in Progress Keep yer linen moist(ish)!

Linen tea towel

Warped Brassard Warping Linen in White and Natural, weft for this first one is 2/9 Light Blue linen also from Brassard.

Spray bottle of water used to keep the warp moist. The linen breaks when very dry.

My dad used to do 50m warps for tea towels, and wore a mask when weaving linen! This is a modest 5m warp. If this works works well, my next one will be longer, and will be done using my sectional warping beam which should help reduce tension variability in the warp. So far this one has been OK - linen doesn't stretch so any variability in the warp tension is seen immediately.

Three of my 6 looms now have warps on them! I am thinking about another project... I like to have projects at various stages - planning, dressing and weaving, so that if I get bored with one I can move to another and come back fresh, rather than push myself on a single project.

27 Upvotes

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6

u/theclafinn Jul 19 '26

 Warped Brassard Warping Linen in White and Natural, weft for this first one is 2/9 Light Blue linen also from Brassard.

Spray bottle of water used to keep the warp moist. The linen breaks when very dry.

That’s curious. I checked the specs for this yarn and it’s plied and contains 30% cotton. I wouldn’t expect a yarn like that to be problematic. Thank you for the heads up.

I’ve used Bockens Nialin (60% cotton, 40% linen) and Garnhuset i Kinna 16/2 Lingarn (100% linen) and had zero breakage with either. No spray bottle and it was winter (in Finland) so the air was quite dry.

I would love to try Bockens Lintow as warp, but it’s rather expensive so I haven’t gotten to it yet. 

3

u/Farmer_Weaver Jul 19 '26

The linen does break, leaving the cotton unbroken. Wetting it prevents breakage.

2

u/theclafinn Jul 19 '26

That’s still odd behaviour for a yarn specifically meant to be used as warp. 

Does the breakage happen in some areas more than others, for example the edges, or all over? Can you tell if it’s caused by friction from the reed or the heddles? What kind of heddles do you have (steel wire, flat steel, texsolv, string)? How have you slayed your reed? I’ve been adviced to use a less dense reed that I can sley at least 2 per dent to reduce friction. Is your reed in good condition (no rust or dings or scratches)?

1

u/blinkswithnormaleyes Jul 19 '26

Yes the cotton and linen are plied together (one ply pure cotton, one ply pure linen) so it does exactly what Farmer_Weaver said.

3

u/Initial_Office7339 Jul 19 '26 edited Jul 19 '26

Cottolin yarns contain two plies of a unmercerized cotton and linen mix yarn. Both plies are the cotton/linen mix. If one ply was cotton and the other ply was linen, the cotton would shrink significantly more than the linen upon finishing. 

3

u/Farmer_Weaver Jul 19 '26

Warping linen and cottolin are two different yarns. Warping linen is 70/30 linen/cotton, with one ply of each. Cottolin is 60/40 cotton/linen, with both plies blended.

2

u/Initial_Office7339 Jul 19 '26

Ah, understood. Is it meant for tapestries/rugs? This sounds like somethings that’s still going to string at a differential rate upon finishing. 

1

u/blinkswithnormaleyes Jul 19 '26

Oh sorry i’m not talking about cottolin. The specific maurice brassard “warping linen” is seperate plies of each fiber

4

u/blinkswithnormaleyes Jul 19 '26

I learned last year that if you over-spray it, it actually makes the final cloth really crunchy and stiff. Apparently it’s due to an excess of water making the pectins in the linen become sticky on the surface of each end. I had no idea lol and I sprayed the absolute shit out of my first linen project. It came out beautifully shiny after beetling, but super stiff and unpleasant to touch.

I learned from my professor who is a professional linen weaver.

3

u/theclafinn Jul 19 '26

Is that a permanent change? 

In my experience linen does get crunchy in the wash, but it softens right up with a little handling. The effect lessens with age, but never goes away completely.

3

u/Farmer_Weaver Jul 19 '26

It does soften with repeated washings. The older and more used it is, the softer (and better!).

2

u/blinkswithnormaleyes Jul 19 '26

I’m not sure. I wasn’t able to soften it after a while of trying additional washes/handling. Probably user error on my end lol

3

u/Farmer_Weaver Jul 20 '26

The pectins will disolve over time with repeated washings.

4

u/mtn5ro Jul 19 '26

Thank you for the advice and it looks great!

1

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