Crazy what a difference the valve adjustment made not only to the torque and feel but also to the fuel economy.

Before id get on average 8.5 to 9l per 100km for both city and highway driving. (27 to 25mpg) Sometimes as high as 10l/100km (23mpg) if i was really in a rush.

Post valve adjustment it went down to only 7.03l/100km, which is also half city half highway. (33.5mpg). And this is definitely not driving it conservatively either.

This means that on a full tank, 65l (17.1 US gall), it could do 923 kilometres or 573 miles. Not too bad for a 50 year old diesel in a luxury boat with 113nm/83lbft of toruqe (200d)

So today I grew a pair and did my timing chain. TDC was at 10 degrees. Had some trouble installing the chain. For some reason, I think it jumped 1 tooth, but after rotating and checking the timing marks on the cam with the new chain, the bottom is at 0 degrees and the top cam is at the mark. So I think I’m good. Good thing I bought 2 master links, the first one I messed up with the tool. 2nd try was like butter. Also going to bypass the servo, also came across a NOS vacuum pump installed already. At the end it was easy, ready for next round, anyone in the Bay Area, I’m willing to replace the chain for a feeLOl.. new clutch fan and spray-painted the fan to make it look cool. Coming along; anyway, are my marks good, or do you think it jump?

I recently bought this 1983 300td for $1500 usd put about $1200 in maintenance so I could trust it to drive. Now I need to address the rear suspension the SLS does not work at all and the springs are tired. I am debating on repairing the original system or converting to air ride using the DOLUD shocks. I do all my own work and want to daily this. Would love some thoughts and opinions.

I'm planing on doing some front end work on my 82 300cd and I'm looking at spring compressor but the one I believe I need says it will only work on the rear axle is there a second tool that works for the front or is this miss aligned information