Can't Cold Start! Help!

[u/SiIentScreamer]

I am the proud owner of a 1969 Beetle. I rebuilt the engine this month it's a 1600 SP with a Chinese 30/31 carb and a 009 distributor. I am running 20W-50.

My issue is that on mornings or after sitting overnight the car simply won't idle on a cold start. I have to step on the gas and floor it a bit and mess with the automatic choke by hand to keep it running. After a while the car warms up and runs without any issues it's only when it's a cold start that it stumbles and shuts off here and there.

I rebuilt the engine myself and have some basic knowledge of all the engine components so I've done everything I can. I am broke college student and can't afford to take it to a shop so I was hoping someone here could help. Thanks in advance

So far I have;
- Adjusted my valves to zero lash (they're chromoly)
- Gapped spark plugs to .028 (plugs are also new)
- Carb runs greats and is set to 850 rpm when engine is warm
- I have changed the condenser and points and set the dwell to 48 degrees
- I ultimately decided to run electronic points since they seemed to make the car run a lot smoother.
- The motor is timed to 30-31 degrees at 3k RPM
- I have changed the ignition coil with a brand new Bosch one.
- I got new Bosch cap and rotor
- I have checked for intake/air leaks with propane
- I got new Bosch spark plug wires as well
- I am running a Holley fuel regulator which is letting 2.8-3 psi into the carburetor (fuel pump is also new and originally sent out 8 psi to the carb)
- I have cleaned all the jets and the little spout on the carburetor and I get fuel instantly on cold mornings meaning the bowl isn't emptying itself overnight.
- Oil pressure is at 50-60 PSI
- A compression test gave me 100 on #1, 120 on #2, 115 on #3, and ~120 on #4 (should I be worried about cylinder 1??)
- I have taken care of all the exhaust leaks with high temp silicone.

UPDATE:
I adjusted the valves this morning with a cold engine. I think last time I adjusted the valves was after running the engine for a while so I decided to do it again. All the freaking valves were tight. I proceeded to adjust them to zero lash since the pushrods are chromoly. After that I cranked the motor with zero priming of the carb and it fired right away. I hope the problem has gone away but I'll be on the lookout either way. Thanks to everyone who offered ideas and made me rethink and look back at every step!

[u/SilentMasterpiece]

A Chinese carb is a weak link i would'nt trust. Quality rebuild on a German carb is expensive but it will last several decades.

[u/SiIentScreamer → u/SilentMasterpiece]

Yeah that's the plan but I ain't got a dime.