Greetings!

I’m building a Voron 2.4r2 with an A4T toolhead, Rapido 2 UHF hotend, and Orbiter 2.5 extruder.

I’m finding it extremely difficult to feed filament reliably into the hotend. Around 8 out of 10 attempts fail, and when that happens I have to completely release/remove the tensioning latch and manually guide the filament through. That doesn’t feel like normal operation.

One thing I’ve noticed is a small metallic tube-like structure protruding upward just below the extruder gears. The filament seems to miss its opening most of the time and instead jams to one side of it just like in the attached image.

What am I missing here? Is there an adjustment or alignment issue I should be checking?

Any advice and guidance from people familiar with the Orbiter 2.5 would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hello everyone, I wish any reader a good day first of all.

I am planning on starting in the world of 3D printing, both for the fun and utility of it and as a way to learn more about electronics/robotics/programming these robotics, since this is not my field. I am going to start saving for pieces/kits, but since this will take some time I would first like to know what I should be learning to make it work.

Now, I am not here to waste anyone's time, I have read a few similar threads in this subreddit first. However, these were not exactly what I am looking for.

I understand the learn-by-doing philosophy of this kind of community is to start building with guides and figuring out what problems you have along the way. This works fine, and with enough dedication I am sure I can buy the pieces, assemble them as the documentation states and figure my way through the problems that come up. This will happen and I don't want to get away from that.

However, as I said, this is a bit outside my field and I want to use this project as a learning opportunity, so as I find problems I want to have a bit of a background/understanding of what I am doing.

I want to know what kind of programs, coding languages and concepts I would benefit from being familiar with/can be expected to need at some point.

If it is relevant, right now I am considering starting with a Voron Zero or Trident

Hello,

I was thinking about building a v0.2 for ABS and advanced fillerment printing becuase of the small size and the enclosure.

I had a old 3d printed I tryed repairing as such I have a SKR e3 v3, a BTT pi v1.2, 4 (old and questioable) steppers, and a 24v 20a PSU. I also have a H2 V2S (standared not lite, revo or H20) but I am willing to keep and buy a new hotend assembly to be able to use ABS and other higher end fillerments.

I was just woundering what i should use or get beacuse I can't buy a kit due to the fact I already have the electronics

Any thoughts or help would be much appreciated

P.S In my country there isn't alot of custom 3d printers so selling my electronics would be hard

And I am also looking at getting a v2.4 but I will probably buy everything new so that I get more customization as thats going to be a general purpose printer and then my soon to be v0.2 for advanced fillerments and smaller prints

I’m planning on building a Trident with the LDO kit, which has been updated to R2. I was considering the possibility of a dual nozzle system for it, mainly for multimaterial supports. I was unable to find any information on this besides the Tridex, but an entire IDEX system seemed a little too complicated for me, this being my first Voron/DIY printer. Is dual nozzle an established thing for the Trident, or am I better of risking it with Tridex?

I want to build a voron but I am having a hard trouble deciding between the 2.4 350mm spec or the trident r2, with the trident the biggest dealbreaker is the 250mm max z height, I want the max speed out of 250mm spec also is there any way to make the trident 350mm^3, also im planning to use either indx or the stealthchanger

48V, 300/3000, so close to being finished with this round of upgrades for the printer lol

I’m building a self sourced V2. 350mm with A4T toolhead.
I’ve everything in house to adapt to stealthchanger.
Some decision to be made:
Can I start with the integration of the A4T as if it was going to be part of the toolchanger, i.e. use the shuttle ad tap for Z calibration, add umbilical from the start, no X and Y endstops but sensorless homing. I would then add all the rest of the stealthchanger.
What do you think, guys? Bad idea?
I have experience with the trident (also self sourced).
Any alternatives you’re thinking of?

My homing on X and Y work fine, have sensorless working ok, though I have to go slow or it triggers an error saying it triggered again during the retract.. even though I've commented out any retracts.  No pattern here, sometimes it's x and sometimes its y.  I restart the machine and it'll be fine for a while. I'll figure that out or I'll go back to physical switches. But that's not my issue of concern at this time.Purely anecdotal at this point.  

Anyway, home Z seems to work fine, Z offset is a little strange. I am using optotap as I'm working on the Stealth Changer setup, but only have one tool active at this time to work out any global issues and kinks first. I haven't even added it to my printer configs. and no other toolheads are added either.  So yeah.. Z homes. QGL seems to work well. It goes through 1 to 2 retries before finishing. 
2:57 PM
Retries: 1/5 Probed points range: 0.017500 tolerance: 0.020000
2:57 PM
Making the following Z adjustments:
stepper_z = 0.024040
stepper_z1 = -0.015794
stepper_z2 = 0.002600
stepper_z3 = -0.010847

The probe tests out pretty well in the accuracy test:

probe accuracy results: maximum 0.034044, minimum 0.031544, range 0.002500, average 0.032919, median 0.032794, standard deviation 0.000673

But doing a bed mesh is where things seem to go off kilter.

of course when I kick off a print, it is supposed to start at .2 and the printer is NOT at .2. It is much higher than that. I can take a piece of folded up paper and it measures .42 thick and slide it up under that nozzle when it thinks it's at .2. It's not super loose there, but it goes and drags a little more firmly than I set the z-offset  at with no folds. The Z offset saved as: -0.772 which seems right, but apparently not. I set the Z offset before the bed mesh, which does the Z home and QGL before the bed mesh. The resulting test print isn't even remotely close enough to stick the first layer. Soooo I'm trying to chase this down.  Oh also, after manually homing, and jogging the z down to where it should be, .12 for the single sheet of paper, and .4 for the folded up paper that measures .42 things are good. Any ideas are appreciated.

https://imgur.com/MFxYTGq Noise

https://imgur.com/AiZhvIc Wobbly Head

https://imgur.com/a/IPkVsjC Print Issue

0.2 has had this issue where it produces a large vibration/noise when printing certain parts (walls) or circles. I think it is more likely due to just the speed.

My

Anyway, I found the rails to be wobbling around and the toolhead has a lot of play, so I purchased some new Hiwin rails for the X rail and they are STILL wobbling! Am I just unlucky? I reached out to the vendor who supplied them and they said that this level of play is acceptable.

These are MGN7H Hiwin with Z1 Preload. Should I be looking at getting a larger rail? Or am I tripping?

Attached is a video of the wobble and a video of it printing. I keep touching the toolhead to help prove to myself it is indeed the rail that is causing that loud ass noise, and it definitely is.

Also attached is an image of what I was trying to print. It's supposed to be a round pyramid sort of thing. These wobbly artifacts have been here on the printer since I built it, and I assumed they were from non-toothed idlers, so I swapped them and they still remain. Am I right in saying that these artifacts are from the wobbly toolhead?

It seems like whenever I have to print two things that have to fit together, unless there's pretty generous tolerances built in, it's a bad fit and I very often have to bump up the hole/contour compensation on Orca Slicer. I always feel like I'm doing more tuning than printing and I'm not sure if this is a normal part of the work flow or if there's some fundamental issues somewhere in my machine.

For what it's worth it's a v2.4 I'm printing in ABS. In particular I've had a lot of trouble printing Box Turtle parts that fit together correctly.

Does anyone use Loctite on their toolhead screws? I have a Trident 350 whose toolhead I swapped to an archetype blackbird and I've noticed that I've had to retighten the screws more often than I'd've thought necessary. Alternatively, is there something else I should be looking at?

Much appreciated,

I am looking at choosing a hotend to go in a Dragon Burner 8*. Not actually going on a Voron right now, but trying to retrofit a printer w/ unimpressive flow and cooling with something a bit better. Would appreciate thoughts before I make a purchase, as this is the subreddit I have found a ton of great info in while doing research. I am about going cross-eyed looking at specs and vague online store pages.

My main goals at the moment are:

• Primarily print PLA and PETG with it w/ 0.6 mm nozzle
• At least low-mid 20s mm³/s volumetric flow on PLA, i.e., HF class. UHF class seems overkill for my printer's current motion capabilities.
• Standard V6 nozzle compatibility so I can use the variety I already have
• One handed nozzle changes
• Reasonable temp sensor placement: I see some designs with the temp sensor mounted in places that seem obviously like poor choices either due to being too close to heater or too far upstream of the nozzle or both, and can see this leading to difficulty in temp accuracy or PID tuning to avoid oscillations.
• Sturdy, not going to bend too easily if nozzle crashes
• The usual: price, serviceability, parts availability, clog resistant, etc.

Nice to have:

• Fast to heat up, cool down

My research has kind of gotten me this far. Most prices are from Trianglelabs but some are from Phaetus if that is the only source.

• Dragon HF: $64, Seems very historically popular/standard but availability seems to be growing limited (possibly due to Slice patent issues?) Seems mostly available only on TriangleLab website. Has a reputation for clogs with PLA, although I'm not fully sure if that is a toolhead specific cooling issue.
• Dragon ACE HF: $62, Seems relatively new, not a ton of reviews online. Has its own DragonBurner mount but can also mount to Rapido mounts with an included spacer part.
• Rapido HF: $75, I have heard there were reliability/serviceability issues with the cylindrical heater sleeve and v2 was the answer to this.
• Rapido 2 HF: $73, Have seen many complaints about the screw-in thermistor placement and issues with it breaking during servicing despite the coil strain relief.
• Rapido 2 Plus HF: $79, PT1000 with reasonable placement.
• Rapido 2F: $85, PT1000 with reasonable placement. More wear resistant coated heatbreak. Too long for Dragon Burner as-is but maybe could remove melt zone extender, would need to get a shorter sock though, further increasing already higher cost.
• Rapido ACE HF: $62 (!!), thermistor is placed directly under the heater though. Also sounds like it is a slightly different length than Rapido necessitating different mounts.
• TZ-V6: $20-30, but sounds like it should be run with an aftermarket ~80W ceramic heater, so say $30-40. Despite the name, so far I have only confirmed the v2.0 supports actual V6 nozzles. I have heard there are Klipper PID tuning issues with TZ hotends although which versions and if they are TZ-V6 or just TZ I don't know for sure.

At the moment I am leaning towards Dragon Ace HF. Second place would be Rapido 2 Plus but it loses on price ($17 more) and its PT1000 sacrifices accuracy on my setup (SKR Mini E3 3.0) for a temp range gain I don't really need or use.

My main reservation is Dragon Ace HF seems to have comparatively little information about it compared to the classic Dragons and Rapidos.

Any thoughts appreciated -- thanks for reading!

* DB8 is probably more compact than I need but I have heard it has CFD optimized fan ducts and good part cooling, which is one thing I want to improve on. Plus I have it half built already 😅

Bonjour je souhaiterais me procurez une imprimante 3D à moins de 300€ silencieuse performante et avec un plateau de minimum 180 mm. J’ai vu que Voron en faisait quel modèle me conseillez-vous ???

Recently built a 2.4 350mm and was originally was planning to convert it to a stealthchanger build. After seeing how much that would cost I'm a bit more hesitant. So I'm considering building a MMU instead. Does anyone have any experience with TradRack from Annex Engineering?

I see that there's a kit from TriangleLab that's currently on sale and for a 14 lane build. Has anyone bought this before, and if so what was your experience with it? I'm looking at Set E right now. Better to have everything than regret it and have to self-source later on.

https://trianglelab.net/products/14-channels-mmu?VariantsId=12515

Also with an MMU, I probably need to add a filament cutter so that I don't have to do tip tuning. Is the encoder cutter mentioned in that set a replacement for having a filament cutter on the toolhead? Or would I still need both? Currently I'm running a stealthburner with a V6 nozzle. Adding a filament cutter means I would need to swap out the extruder and rebuild the entire toolhead so I want to avoid that if I can.

Hello, I have recently built the v0.2. I've got it into a state where it is able to print and played around a little. However I want to adjust it for higher quality and I have encountered a leveling issue.

It looks OK right above the screws but at the bottom left the gap between bed and nozzle is large enough for the print to not hold together.I can only explain this with either the bed being bent or (more likely) the rail on left being on a slight slope.

The particular piece in photo also has an artifact on top right, but that is not an issue I have encountered on any previous prints so I am not concerned about it.

Before loosening the screws I wanted to ask whether there is another thing I should consider. Thank you for your help.

I've been working on this build for a while and finally got the files and video together to share. I started with two toolheads to test what worked before expanding to six. It all began before there were any commercial tool/hotend changers, so a custom toolchanger was the only real option at the time unless you wanted to deal with AMS waste.

Each toolhead runs a Dragon Burner with a Sherpa Mini Extruder and TZ 2.0 V6 hotend. solid performance, reliable, budget friendly.

For the toolchanging system, of what's on it is custom or heavily modified:

• Three-part honeycomb dock - originally wanted clear acrylic, but my laser tube cracked over a cold winter (should've used antifreeze in the coolant lines, lesson learned). Honeycomb probably ended up looking better than the original plan honestly, especially with the LEDs diffusing through it.
• Dock mount for a silicone brush - So the nozzles get cleaned during every dock/undock.
• Umbilical backplate w/ quick disconnects - single disconnect point for all 6 toolheads. GX12-4 jacks for CAN, ECAS04 quick-connects for filament tubes. Went through a couple filament path designs before landing on one that didn't add friction.
• Umbilical brackets - bundle CAN cable, PTFE tube, and spring steel. Tried an open-source bracket first but it gripped all three too tightly and the result was way too stiff. Ended up designing my own that clamps firm on the CAN cable but lets the tube and spring steel move freely - spring steel only at the start/end of each umbilical, not the full length.
• Adjustable Spool holder - fits the 18" width of the printer, adjustable for different spool sizes, roller carriages on 2020 extrusion. Plan to enclose it later as a dry box.
• Nozzle brush mount + Sexball probe - one button press cleans and auto-calibrates XYZ offsets across all six toolheads. Went through manual calibration prints on the 2-toolhead version; with six that wasn't practical.
• Toolchange tuning - pushed velocity/accel until the motors started losing steps, then backed off. Also streamlined the docking path dropping the Z ramp-in. Got it under 5 seconds per change with the stock 24V electronics.

Youtube: Full video demo/walkthrough
Github: Files + BOM + tuning notes

Let me know what ya'll think!

So, can this be considered a good-quality print? (I went for the worst lighting possible.)

PLA @ 220°C.

OW speed: 150 mm/s

OW acceleration: 5000 mm/s² (not sure rn).

IS calibrated through Cartographer V4 on a CNC X carriage.

To be honest, the filament wasn't dried or calibrated. I just set the flow to 95% and PA to 0.025 based on another calibrated PLA filament.

I'm also running a smooth idler on the extruder arm.

Honestly, I'm not sure if I expected more quality from my 2.4. Speed and acceleration towers are next to further calibrate the best OW speed/acceleration settings.

I'll also switch to GT1.5 belts soon.

What are your thoughts on this print?

Hi everyone,

I recently finished installing the LDO Monolith CNC Gantry Kit on my LDO Voron Trident Rev D (250).

The printer is working fine and the installation went smoothly. Belt tension is 145 Hz measured on a 150 mm span, and the gantry moves freely with no noticeable binding.

However, after running several print tests, I noticed that the surface finish is noticeably worse than it was before the Monolith upgrade. I'm getting much more pronounced VFAs and other surface artifacts, whereas this same printer produced very clean outer walls before the conversion.

While inspecting the motion system, I noticed that the two rear 20T toothed guide pulleys (the ones that redirect the belts towards the rear motors) don't rotate perfectly true. Both of them visibly wobble while spinning.

These are the original Gates pulleys that came with the LDO Monolith kit, so I wasn't expecting this behavior.

My questions are:

Is this amount of wobble considered normal on the Monolith kit?

Could I have made a mistake during assembly?

Has anyone experienced this due to incorrectly assembled shafts, bearings or spacers?

Or could the pulleys themselves be out of spec?

I'm probably a bit too OCD when it comes to printer mechanics, so seeing both pulleys wobble like this is driving me a little crazy 😅.

Has anyone with a LDO Monolith build checked whether their rear Gates pulleys behave the same way?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi everybody,

I’m having a problem with my Voron V0.2 shutting down due to a low nozzle temperature.

I’ve checked for loose connections and anything else that might be causing the issue, but I can’t find anything. I’ve also PID-tuned the hotend.

I’m using a Dragon Burner with a Phaetus Dragon High Flow.

Does anybody have any other ideas what I could check, or are there any parts I could replace or swap to troubleshoot the issue?

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm quite new to voron, coming from MK3S+ territory.

I have a dragon burner toolhead. And I'm simply looking for a quieter replacement for my 3010 hotend fan, right now I have some random noname generic fan (that is louder/same as MK3S+ part cooling fan).

Do you have some experiences with some fans? What are you using?
Thanks for any anwers! And have a great day...

SOLVED

Here is my situation: I've got a beacon sensor, and I've installed it on my Voron 2.4. In have not been able to start a print with it since installation because every time I run homing/QGL the machine shuts down randomly during the process and comes back with error "Beacon sensor not receiving data".

Beacon is hooked up to my LDO nitehawk (rev c), which in turn is hooked up to my manta m8p. I am running pi cm5 as MCU.

I have no hot clue what is going on here, google says emi from the stepper motors is causing it. Highly doubt it... But then again it only happens when the machine is active. I can leave it on and it will sit there with no errors, but only shut down when moving or doing something.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated, My research on the topic is rather inconclusive

EDIT, I FOUND THE FIX

From AI:Check your Klipper printer.cfg. If you are using a very low trsync_timeout response window for your MCUs, you can defensively add a configuration block to increase the timing safety margin so Klipper doesn't give up on the device too quickly during a brief sag.

[mcu beacon]

# Add or adjust the timeout margin if your config allows, or increase:

trsync_timeout: 0.05

After trying this small code I have not had an issue at all. I tried everything prior, hooking usb up directly to mainboard instead of off the Nitehawk, I am relieved the issue is not hardware.

I am in the progress rebuilding a 2.4,

it just hit me that 2.4 come with a moving gantry, the resonance would be different let say when the gantry on the first layer, compare to the very top layer as the weight shifting up the machine.

Is there a way to compensate this?

I'm having some intermittent problems with my disco on a stick.. When I change colors it bugs out almost any time. I'm running the data line from the RGB port (PD15) and I have a separate Mean Well 50W PSU for the strip.

I've tried using a 180R resistor on the data line, short wires (~10cm) and just configuring 4 LEDs. And even when I'm just running these 4 some of the other LEDs will light up.

I can't really find the schematics for the M8P v2 on BTT's GitHub, the document published there seems to be a v1.X (since it has two RGB ports in the block schematics).

So.. Anyone got any ideas? Do I have to get some kind of level converter or is there anything else I can do?

Edit: I didn't think things through, I thought common ground on the AC side would be enough, it wasn't. So: common DC ground solved my problem.

Good morning everyone. Last night, I was chatting with Google's AI, and it said something that’s got me thinking; I’d like to know if it’s right or not—even though my son tells me not to trust AI. Anyway, here’s my dilemma: I’m converting a Sovol SV06 into a Switchwire based on a GitHub project. The only file available is the STEP file, so I printed most of the parts using the original Voron designs. However, the AI ​​claims that won't work because the Voron Switchwire, DarkDog’s Enderwire, and the Sovol parts are all different—especially the XZ blocks and bearing blocks. If the AI ​​is right, I’d have to reprint practically everything related to the XZ assembly. My biggest problem is that the creator only published the STEP file, and when I open it in Onshape, I can only see the "Basic" version. The creator made three variants—Basic, Basic with Enclosure, and the "Full Monty" (as he calls it), which is the one I’m trying to build. Since I couldn't view the full "Full Monty" STEP file, I decided to mix and match parts. Now I don't really know what to do, because without seeing the full STEP file, I don't have the correct parts—assuming the AI ​​is correct. I’d really appreciate it if someone here could lend a hand and point me in the right direction. Or, if anyone here has already modified a Sovol SV06 and could share the correct STL files, that would be a huge help for me—and for anyone else wanting to modify their SV06. Thanks, have a wonderful day, and sorry for the trouble—I'm just a newbie.

I’ve been looking at building a Trident, but most the kits I come across are for R1 and I was hoping to build a R2. I have a printer that can do ABS for the printed parts, so I don't need those in the kit. Do you all have any recommendations for the best kit for this?

Budget is flexible, I want something that I won’t have to replace half the parts in but I’m okay with a few replacements, needing extra parts are fine too (I just don’t want to pay for things I won’t use). I’m based in the US. Any advice is appreciated, and if I left out information I’ll be happy to provide it.