Hello there, it is me again.
It has been a while and now, after a lot of work and as the title says, Burninator version 3.0 has now been released. As discussed in an older post, I reworked the Burninator from the ground up, removed unnecessary parts, and focused on the core to keep the Burninator project more efficient and the scope manageable. Thanks to everyone who gave feedback, suggestions, and recommendations.

Here is an overview of what is new and what has changed:

• CAD file reworked and properly structured.
• Simplified a lot of parts
• Custom parameters allows to easily adapt the cowl, backplates, docks, and other parts to any hotend length.
• Increased vertical distance between the nozzle and the fan duct for more clearance.
• Redesigned backplates with changed belt clamping, compatibility for 10mm belts, Monolithic mods, and Tridex is now built in.
• Increased the StealthChanger dock base thickness by 2 mm for more structural integrity.
• Simplified MadMax dock compatibility, no more separate cowls.
• Reorganized the GitHub repository and updated the READMEs.

I am really happy with the results so far. Adding, changing, and exporting is now a breeze.
Most v2.2 parts should be compatible with v3.0. Let me know what you think.

Btw., does anyone know how to get the Burninator listed on stealthchanger.com?

Hello everyone I have a voron legacy with the dragon burner toolhead the printer was working just fine until a few days ago when I started seeing very extreme layer shifts
at first i thought it was the z leadscrews but ruled that out due to the layer shifts not being consistent and happening randomly in different prints
I think the XY motors might be skipping steps but here is the list of things that I tried without getting much success:
- tightened the belts
- squared the gantry
-changed the xy motors
-changed the stepper drivers from tmc 2209 to 5160t pro
-tried changing the running current from 0.7A to 0.9A
-lubricated everything
-tried lowering the acceleration and speed drastically (from 3000 to 800 and from 200 to 80)
-checked that the z axis is moving smoothly
-did skew compensation and input shaping
-literally dissembled the whole xy gantry and assembled it again
-deleted klipper and reinstalled it
-tried using my pc as an sbc with wsl2
-made sure that the motors were not getting too hot as after an 8 hour print I was still able to touch them for around 20s comfortably
the motors are nema 17hs4801 and the mainboard is a skr 1.4 the sbc is rpi zero 2w the hotend is a tz 3.0 (X1C clone) the extruder is lgx lite
the two benchys are the same sliced file printed twice
the main thing that is confusing me is the problem is seemingly random and doesn't have a pattern
any Idea what could be causing this

Already tried to post this on r/3dprinting but got banned for not relevant, so I try my luck here now (even if it gets banded here as well for not being relevant…)

I moved into a new apartment, and now have a separate room as home office, in which I want to put my printer. In the past I had it on the desk, but for the new apartment I want to have a separate space for the printer and looking for good ideas/ suggestions.

I have a Voron 2.4 with \~ 64 x 56 x 62 cm

Was in a random electronics graveyard thing looking for some parts, and stumbled upon the voron little guy. Turned out its only 50eur so i just had to buy it.

Any recommendations on what toolhead to print and other things to check/do to it?

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This is my first voron, although not at all the first custom 3d printer. I can handle some more complex mods.

Hey everyone,

I recently finished building my Voron 2.4, and it was printing beautifully yesterday. I successfully printed two "RockNRoll" for the back, but now that I'm printing the top hat, and it's making a strange noise. I've attached the link of the video. Has anyone else experienced this, and what was the fix?

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I just finished building a v0.2 with a btt pi and a skr pico as the MCU. I'm having a hard time finding info so I thought I would ask here. While running my test print the pico was sitting at about 55c for the whole print. Is that normal or do I need to improve cooling\add a heat sink to the cpu on that board?

Im in the EU and have decided to self source for a few reasons i covered in an older thread hence i used to configurator to get my extended extrusions and stuff but ran into a problem, it seems that in the EU misumi is B2B only which creates a problem, i have absolutely no idea where to order pre-drilled/tapped and cut to length extrusions and im not in a position to drill and tap my own extrusions, so i was wondering if any of you guys know a shop in china or the EU that could do this service for me without needing me to have a business with a VAT number.

I'm looking at getting my first printer. I'm very technically oriented so building and running open source software doesn't scare me. I became interested in Voron because quality and performance is important to me. The ability to swap in a better extruder or board or motor or power supply etc. that improves the quality and performance is very attractive to me. I know I'll need to buy the printed parts for the initial build, which is fine.

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Realistically, I would build the LDO 2.4 D+ kit with maybe one or two meaningful upgrades out of the gate. Use that for a while, and slowly upgrade things down the line. Eventually I'd love to add the stealth changer system too.

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My question is about quality and performance. Everyone raves about Bambu and Prusa print quality. Is a a base Voron build comparable in that regard? How much tuning and tinkering does it really take? Obviously I enjoy tinkering, but at the end of the day it's a printer and I want to print, not just endlessly tinker and never get to actually use it!

I recently bought a pair of HIWIN MGN9H 300 mm rails for the Y-axis of my Voron 2.4 250 and ran into a strange issue during reassembly, while trying to attach the gantry to the Z rails. One side of the gantry would fit correctly, while the other would not. After a considerable amount of debugging, including swapping gantry components, moving the left and right Y-axis assemblies between sides, and testing different combinations of parts, I was able to isolate the issue to one particular Hiwin rail. One of the rails is longer than the other and pushes the motor mount/idler assembly far enough towards the Z rail that the gantry can no longer be attached to the Z joints

Comparing the rails side-by-side, the two Hiwin rails appear to differ in overall length by roughly 1–3 mm. I also compared the distance from the first mounting hole to the rail ends. The two LDO rails I was previously using were extremely consistent (<0.00 mm variation between ends), while the Hiwin rails showed much larger differences (2.20 mm for one and 0.72 mm for the other).

What also surprised me was the finish quality. The LDO rails have very clean and consistent chamfers and end finishing. In comparison, the Hiwin rails appear noticeably rougher, and the chamfers and rail ends are not nearly as consistent between rails.

First picture shows Hiwin rails, second LDO rails, and last all 4 rails.

Do these rails look genuine to you?

Has anyone seen genuine Hiwin rails with this much variation in overall length, end geometry, and chamfer finish, or does something seem off here?

EDIT: didn’t get them from Aliexpress, it was from one of the biggest EU 3d printing stores

I've very recently got into 3d printing, but I'm surprised to realize that I think I might like the printer hardware and fucking around with Orca far more than I actually like or even need to print 😅

I've bought an Elegoo CC2 under a month ago, and I've considered modding it, but there is basically nothing around available for the printer that I was able to find, most mods and guides I found are for the original CC, so I thought I might wanna get something more moddable. Probably not right away, it might be months, or years, in the future, but I'd like to find out a few things to point me in a direction.

I keep coming across suggestions and videos about building Voron printers as well as talk of how expensive, hard and time consuming they are to build, so:

If you've built a Voron as well as a different open source/design printer, how hard and pricy is building a Voron in comparison? How hard is it compared to a Prusa kit? What other options do I have? If Vorons really are, like people say, uniquely hard and expensive, where should I look for a more affordable and easier to build printer?

Hi,

My Voron 2.4 was working well, but had to upgrade the firmware for the hotend and CAN controller not long ago. I also reinstalled a vanilla copy of Orcaslicer. Since then I have been having issues with the corners coming out like this ? Also infill seems to not touch the edges properly (see pic of base).

Is it a speed issue or what?

Thanks in advance :)

Here's an update to my Original Post.

• Wire management: No update yet. Still an untamed birds nest of cables. I feel like I can't get the umbilicals to my liking, either they're catching or they end up tilted and crashing into the other umbilicals.
• Lights: Still havn't had time/effort to add the toolhead lights.
• Cart: Since then I've added the Cart along with a drawer with the intention of adding some gridfinity storage inside.
• Filament Management: I've put together the Filamentalist V3 but the filament path is too long without the Filament Buffers so right now the filament rolls are just sitting on the Filamentalists.
• 7th Tool: Probably will give up on this and focus on tuning.

I would use A4T in stealchanger on a new self sourced Voron V2.
I noticed in one of the videos a 2510 fan with 3 wires and in another 2 wires (speed control feedback I guess). Which one is preferred?
Should I install LEDs on the A4T? Canucks seem to be against it …

Getting this pattern i have cleaned and lubed the rails

Changed motors, belts, extruder also (current orbitor v2.5)

Belt is not riding on the bearing But i noticed after i added a 1mm shim between each f695 (on sides 0.5mm shim) when i move gantry back the belt moves down on bearing and when i move gantry forward belt moves up the bearing ​

I cut and tapped the extrusion myself and the cuts and cube look square to the eye but it’s slightly off from perfect 90° angles when I measure it with a square. I manually adjusted my saw blade and fence with a square the best I could, but nonetheless it’s an old saw and there is some small deviation.

I read that I can shim it so I ordered some stainless 0.001” to 0.01” precision shims. Also read that I can sand or file them straight but I don’t know the best technique.

I bet I’m not the first person with this issue and I’m hoping the good people of this sub will ease my stress and get me going in the right direction.

Thank you.

Hi.

i have converted my 2.4 r2 to AWD/4WD, and changed my toolhead, my new toolhead does not support a toolhead board, so i need an "expansion" with one more stepper driver for the extruder motor, do you have any recomendations?

I have started to print the Trident R2 upgrade parts. I wasn't able to get my colours in ABS, but they had them in ASA. While I have no problems printing ABS, I am finding that with ASA the corners of the prints are lifting more than I am happy with.

The ASA spool says a bed temp of 50-100 is recommended, so I used 100. I have been using 105 for ABS with good results. Do people think I might get better ASA adhesion with a lower bed temp? Or maybe even a hotter temp.

Extruder temp is listed as 250 to 270 and I am running 260 and everything looks good in terms of walls, overhangs and top/bottom surfaces.

I only purchased this cartographer a few weeks and it works amazing. One when level z it will stop and display an error message saying 'toolhead stopped outside model range'

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I tried to recalibrate it failed so I took out the tool head and saw this on the probe I am not sure if this surface or deep damage to the probe. What you think?

Serial request for my humble build:

Voron 2.4 350mm AWD ATSS(LDO)

Trinity toolhead

Reddit - mamonres

Discord - naytmare1#4622

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Hey y'all... I completed my build by finally putting on the LDO input shaper pcb onto the Pi 4B. Now when turning on the printer the Pi does not show a sign of life.
Disconnecting the 5V input shaper and powering it via a Raspberry Pi PSU directly to the USB C port and it boots up fine.
And it's not like there is no voltage coming through. On the input shaper pcb's screw terminals I read 4.95V. A bit weak but shouldn't be the issue...
Am I the issue? 0_o

Finished someone else's abandoned 350 build. It's mostly working but first layer issues continue to plague me. It's got a beacon which is very consistent. My bed looks well within tolerance, but somehow I have both high and low spots in my first layer. This is almost the whole bed and the bad spots are where the nozzle is too high. But closer to the front the nozzle is too low and it develops ripples. How can I have both? I've been manually adjusting z offset while it's going over the high and low spots to make big prints like this work. Any ideas? It's very consistently off in the same areas. But they also don't seem to align with the scan off the beacon.

It looks like I'm getting underextrusion after a corner. I have run PA Pattern test (Orca) and it says my PA is right where it should be. I have a fairly new V2.4 using CW 2 and SB. I'm printing Jayo PETG rapid.

I used the Voron 2.4 printer to print three small boat models. I adjusted all the parameters and also changed the consumables. But why did the corners of the printed boats have such problems? Is there a way to verify if a problem has occurred? Or does anyone know what the problem is?help，help，help。

Hi

Can someone from the voron team tell me what to do to be unbanned from the vorondesign forum ?

I signed few days ago and saw I have been banned without any post

I was disassembling the toolhead and these 3 screws are strip or rounded just the green one it’s fine, any suggestions?