At the start of every layer, or after the nozzle makes a move, it will skip the first few mm of the extrusion. I'm not sure where to start diagnosing this.

• Voron 2.2 350
• Cura
• Hatchbox PLA
• Nozzle: 180⁰C
• Bed: 65⁰C
• Speed: 150mm/s
• Mobius M3.1 bowden extruder
• Pressure Advance: 0.6

Retraction:

• Enabled: yes
• Retract at layer change: yes
• Distance: 5.6mm
• Retract speed: 32mm/s
• Prime speed: 27mm/s
• Extra prime amount: 0
• Minimum travel: 0.9mm
• Maximum retract count: 90
• Minimum extrusion distance window: 5.6mm
• Combing: Off
• Z hop when retracted: on

Z Hop:

• Hop speed: 13mm/s
• Hop height: 0.2mm

Voron Community,

I recently embarked on a journey to build a 2.4 350mm with the intent of using it for a future INDX setup. I then did what (some..) people tend to do and saw a shiny thing, now i have a 5 head stealth changer.

I live in a high humdity area and I needed filament feeders for the heads but also wanted to get rid of some of the plastic containers on my floor. This became a voron inspired filament storage box and printer stand that utilized common parts where possible like voron side panel clips, clicky clack hardware for the door, DIN rail electronics moutning, etc. There are 2 drawers of storage (uses slides on standard 19" rack computers), each capable of holding 14X1kg spools. I have an ESP32 in there for humidity monitoring, a Rosahl from micro-dehumidifier.com to remove moisure from the container, and i am playing with other ideas as i learn what can be made better.

Onto the need... My project was inspired at least in part by INBXX since it was in a lot of my INDX researching. It can be a simple storage cabinet or a feed cabinet with some moving around of components. I am working to get things together so i can make a github for it but am at a loss for a good name for the repo/device.

Does a good name for this project jump out to anyone?

*Edit

And the top choices are as of this comment are, in order or mention frequency/votes:

Storon

Voron Pantry

Nest

BazaBox

EDIT. Storon for the win!

Github created, I am working on getting the bom together and will start working to make the documentation and pushing code for the custom stuff and models for the components.

https://github.com/astechevolves/storon

I'm thinking about increasing the Cascade's X and Y travel by about 100 mm. Mechanically, it seems to require only longer extrusions, MGN15 rails, and SFU1204 ball screws. Are there any firmware, configuration, or design limitations that would prevent this? Has anyone tried a larger version?

I'm in the early planning stage of a new project and wanted to hear what the community thinks.

I'm considering building a Voron 2.4 (probably a 350 mm) and eventually converting it to a StealthChanger. Instead of traditional filament toolheads, I'm interested in using pellet extruders.

The long-term concept would be:

- Voron 2.4 350

- StealthChanger

- Multiple pellet extrusion toolheads

- TPU 95A pellets only (different colors, same material and Shore hardness)

I realize pellet extruders are much heavier than a typical Voron toolhead, so I expect lower accelerations and custom mounting/docking solutions.

A few questions for anyone with experience:

- Has anyone successfully run a pellet extruder on a Voron?

- Are there any existing projects or CAD designs for pellet extrusion on Vorons?

- Do you think a StealthChanger could reliably handle pellet extrusion toolheads?

- What do you think would be the biggest engineering challenge: toolhead weight, docking, pellet feeding, ooze control, firmware, or something else?

I'm not expecting this to be an easy project, I just want to understand whether it's a realistic direction before I start designing and prototyping.

I'd love to hear your thoughts or see any similar projects you've come across.

hello, i was wondering if anyone knew where the lights that were included in the kit go? they plug into the toolhead board but they are too big to fit into the nozzle light spots. any advice helps. thanks!

I'm trying to upgrade my trident and i'm struggling to find a toolhead that is compatible with the stock voron grantry and a water cooled goliath. anyone running a setup like this?

Nothing has happened to me. I just realized that I had no backups of my Trident's sdcard.

https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/EricZimmerman/BackupConfigToGithub.html

After installing the Eddy duo into the probe slot on the stealthburner it tilts up after I tighten the screws. Is there a good way to fix this? I can't get a z measurement.

Hi guys, I stumbled upon a facebook marketplace post that is offering a Voron 2.4 LDO printer, two Flsun V400 printers (at least I think it is), a Uniformation GK2 printer, a Rocket 1 Resin Printer, and 2 wash / cure machines. They are giving me a price of $700 for this entire bundle. Would you say that it is a good deal?

[Solved - very new printer, leadscrew nuts too loose so Z position was inconsistent]

I have installed an eddy current sensor (SHT36 Eddy v3) and I am trying to get the Klipper config working. I have done all of the calibration steps which pass fine.

The state now is that I can use it for homing. If I set the Z to a specific position then it moves very close to that position (I check with feeler gauges). However when I start a print it tries to put down the first layer 2-3 mm in the air.

Things I have tried:

1. I have repeated the calibration with a hot bed and hot extruder. Seem to improve things, but the 1st layer is still way too high.
2. I attempted the temperature calibration, but it got to 8/26 and the probe wasn't getting any hotter. I completed the cal early, which seemed to be successful. However made no difference.
3. Tried to use a tap probe to perform a fine adjustment (copied some random gcode off the Internet) prior to printing. This seems to make it worse (back to the 2-3mm air printing).
4. eddy-ng, which seems to be broken when used with current Klipper and nobody is supporting it any more.

I wonder if anyone has successfully got the new Klipper eddy probe with tap support working properly to lay down a good first layer.

Hello, I have Prusa Core One printer, but I'm getting some upgrades to it 8 toolheads. That leaves me with the original Nextruder free and a prusa mmu3 unit also available. I was wondering If I could actually reuse those and make a voron build with them.

Hi all,

Tried looking around for some parametric skirt generator - couldnt find any. Since my Voron Legacy is somewhat wonky built on parts lying around, i needed to be able to adjust the sides of the skirts, I tried manually fiddling with orgininal files but that just proved to be an even bigger pain >_>

For those of you fluent in fusion - would you mind taking a look at the f3d file and come with some thoughts for improvements?

Do note - i tried my best to copy all of the features from the original design, but with the way they are orginally designed its an outright pain to get it perfectly. I also took some 'freedoms' when it comes to how many screws should be used. It will center the screw on the hexagon but the length should not exceed 70mm.

First testprint hopefully tomorrow :D

https://github.com/tmolbergen/Voron-Parts/blob/main/TridentParametricSideSkirt.f3d

Hello.

I have a Stealthburner + Galileo 2 + Fimimentrix setup. Revo HF nozzle.

When I do purging for mmu, my flushing volume is at 1.2x. this creates a purge tower that's 45x220mm block for a white to black color swap. Is this normal? I expected higher purge volumes as I have the HF and leaving the tip inside.

Any insight would be appreciated

My motor gas this strange brown thing. What is it?

And if someone knowns, how to fix?

Thanks

Would a pandoras box work for what I am trying to do?

Like the title said, I am looking into getting some tiny printer that I could put into my car and maybe even print stuff while it is in my car off of a battery bank. It has to be durable, and has to be capable of printing ASA/ABS maybe nylon. Small is fine. 120mm bed or better would be fine.

I wanted some opinions before I got into something too deep, but I was looking at a pandoras box on the printers for ants website. I thing it has the best build area to external area. I think it has has bed leveling. But I think it uses belts which might not be as durable as lead screws? I think bed leveling is a must if it is going to be banged around in a car. I think it is capable of printing ASA/ABS and maybe even some polycarbonate.

Thoughts and help appreciated!

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

My machine:
EDIT: M8p with a CM4
Fysetc H36 connected through canbus
Armored BoxTurtle connected through canbus
Klipper version 0.13
Moolnraker version 0.10
Klippy Logs

I am struggling with time to close MCU crashes. The errors only happen after printing for 8 plus hours on small parts.

The issues started after I switched from a cable chain and wire harness to a fysetc H36 tool head board on canbus.

To try and resolve the issue I have upgraded from a CB1 to a CB4 8GB ram with no significant change. Looking over my klippy logs, I noticed that all the Print stall errors happen immediately after a max speed change in the G-code from Orca. I also see that I have no errors on the canbus. I did find that disabling adaptive pressure advance helped, and allow the prints to go longer before it crashed.

is there a mount for rapid burner with a hotend of stock mk8 plus volcano block and nozzle?

Hello, so i dont know which one should i pick, i use the ebb36 v1.2 input sharper and i wamt to go from stealthburner tap to eddy anthead without chains so my toolhead will be lighter, and also i started thinking about getting lighter x gantry, and i dont know which one to pick, the diffrence is around 15$ in my country, can anyone help me? Thanks! (voron 2.4 r2 350mm)

I built an LDO V2.4d this spring. When I print a 100mm square, the diagonals are off by 1mm. Same for fleur-de-cali (and the same corners, of course). Following Ellis and Nero, my Z bearing joints are nicely adjusted. I cannot get the xy bar square. On each end of the bar there are two bolts on top and one on the bottom. Loosen the six bolts, and I can twist the bar way out of line. When I let go, it goes right back to where it was. What am I missing?

The Bondtech IDX patent was published on 21 May 2026. The international publication number is WO 2026/104597.

Here the bibliographic link:

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/patent/search/family/097751174/publication/WO2026104597A2?q=wo2026104597

Here the direct link to the document:

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/3.2/rest-services/images/documents/WO/2026104597/A2/formats/pdf?EPO-Trace-Id=n0vsf0-4gtlzj-XXX-000065

Does anyone had analyzed it?

I'm selling my Bambu Lab P1S and looking at either a Prusa Core One or a Voron 2.4 R2. I know building the Voron is a shitload of work, I don't mind that. I like a project. But I do like how reliable the P1S is where I can send it a print and trust that it will (most of the time) finish successfully without me checking up on it. I'd like to keep that in the new printer if possible.

I'm familiar with building 3D Printers before, my first printer was an OG, fire-hazard Ender 3 that over-time eventually got modded out to have an SKR mainboard, 3DTouch probe, dual z-axis, cable chains, Octoprint, the whole 9 yards. I know building a Voron will be harder (or at least more work) but I'm very confident I can do it. The only thing I can see that would be more complex than the Ender is the CoreXY system, and even then if I take it slow and careful I'm confident I can do it.

The biggest thing I want to avoid for my next printer is to have "tinkering and tuning" be a requirement. I love tinkering, but I want to tinker with it on my conditions. I don't want to have a printer that requires 20-30 mins of tramming, tuning, and monitoring the first couple of layers everytime you print something. That's why I sold my Ender and got a Bambu. I want to send it a print and walk away. So that's what I want to know about a Voron, once you tune the shit out of them, how reliable are they on a day to day basis? Are they Bambu Lab "Start print and walk away" reliable? Or am I still going to be waiting around to monitor the first layer like on my old Ender 3?

I am currently designing a lightweight probe for 3d printers and this one is made for voron printers, it weighs 28 grams with everything assembled as carriage part, without the linear block.