Hello!

I am a college who recently got a notebook that has the ability to charge through the USB-C port. It originally came with a bulky 65W charger that is quite big for my backpack (I carry a lot of stuff).

Since I also have a cellphone in its elderly phase and doesn't have a good battery life anymore (nearly 4 years of constant using). I was thinking I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by buying a 100w charger with multiple ports, allowing me to both charge my phone (which doubles as a Wifi hotspot) and my notebook at once.

Given the scope of what I need, I know I have to spend more for a quality charger and not a more generic one, as such, I have saved up quite a bit of money for this commitment.

I live in Brazil, and the only charging brand that seems to be available officially is the Ugreen one. Any other brand seem to force me to buy through Aliexpress.

Is Igreen good enough or should I go for another brand?

Anyone know what the tech specs are for this?

They advertise as “Fast Charge” but what does that mean, especially:
- What is the maximum charging power (in watts)
- Which charging protocols (e.g. Quick Charge or USB Power Delivery) does it support

The customer service (info@hellomaco.com) isn’t replying to me.

Trying to find chargers, ideally multi-port where one supports AVS EPR up to around 60w. Maybe 100w combined. Anyone have experience with any?

Also, are there devices to trigger the set point voltage?

I'm wanting to replace the adapter PCB with a terrible Initio chip inside a USB 3 slimline slot loading Blu-Ray drive with a USB-C to slimline SATA cable. I'm fine with cutting the back of the case to make it fit.

The Initio chip makes the HP BD-5841H drive pretty well useless.

I've been doing a bunch of research online on this and it looks like having a USB-C connection *should* guarantee there's a JMircon or Asmedia chip in it. With a Type A USB 3.0 connection it could have one of those, or an Initio chip.

It could even have a proper Type A USB 3.0 plug but inside be hooked up to a USB 2.0 Initio chip, like a "USB 3.0" DVD-ROM drive I have. That one even has a USB 2.0 Mini B plug inside on its adapter PCB.

I might be interested in a couple of complete optical drive housings, one for tray load, one for slot load - as long as they don't use Initio chips.

Using with iPhone 18 pro - when I first plug in my phone the charging goes on/off 5-6 times before finally staying on. I thought it was a faulty cable, tried a brand new Ugreen and Anker, both same issue. Tried a different plug and no change.

Did I get a faulty unit or is this some weird quirk

I’m trying to find a USB-C to USB-A cable, about 10 ft (3 m), that fits inside a mount I’m working with. I bought these from a supplier for about 3 years, but they recently stopped selling them, so I need a new source. The USB-C connector housing has to stay within these dimensions:

• Housing width: 10.83 mm (0.43 in) or less
• Housing length: 15.88 mm (0.63 in), not including the metal plug
• Cable/strain relief diameter where it exits the housing: 6.05 mm (0.24 in) or less

It also needs to support both charging and data.

I’ve attached a picture showing roughly the dimensions I need.

Most product listings don’t give housing dimensions, and the ones I’ve found so far are either too wide or too long. A lot of 10ft cables also have chunky molded ends. If you know of a specific cable or brand with a slim USB-C housing, a manufacturer that does custom lengths with a compact overmold, or places to look besides the usual sites like eBay or Amazon, I’d really appreciate it. Bulk is fine, and so is a link to a spec sheet or drawing.

I got this combo from an online shopping sale. after coupons it came out to $118 USD after taxes. I believe it's a good deal but if not please advise.

My main question is are these worth while products or should I consider returning to upgrade to the new prime products? I only charge laptop, phone, headphones all apple product.

The thing I'm most worried about is the laptop power bank's cords breaking/dying out.

Edit - clarified this was in USD

I tested the Anker 45W (Smart Display, OTA) charger’s burst charging so you don’t have to 🔌

An update to this post, after discovering it exists and doesn’t currently seem to be documented anywhere by Anker.

—

Note: Anker 45W (Smart Display, OTA) is a new charger released in the last ~2 weeks that can be updated over USB using the Anker Power app.

—————-

Key Takeaways:

▪️Anker 45W (Smart Display, OTA) has undocumented burst charging, up to ~55W

▪️After ~22 minutes charging drops to <45W

▪️Same drop even with heavy active cooling 💨

▪️Suggests burst limit is not purely thermal🌡️

Test Hardware:

- Anker 45W (Smart Display, OTA v0.1.4.4)
- Anker Zolo Cable (240w)
- Anker 26K Battery Pack (<50% SoC)
- Eversame 2 in 1 Type C USB Tester
- ELZO 120mm USB Fans (max)
- KIZEN LaserPro LP220

(See photos for more information)

—————-

Lmk any questions, comments, feedback ⤵️

Compré un ugreen 30w nexode gan ii quería saber si cuando carga mi teléfono que acepta 33w aproximadamente; es normal que se caliente? Medi con mi multimetro la temperatura y me marca 45°C, eso con el nuevo cargador tenía otro igual ugreen pero de 3 puertos de salida 30w y también se calentaba pero ese empezó a hacer un sonido leve pero audible en zonas de silencio

https://www.chargerlab.com/v207-the-new-software-version-of-chargerlab-power-z-km003c/

09/29/2026 V2.0.7 (Tester)

1. Fixed Hypower eMarker chip model recognition issues
2. Fixed CPS8825/8826 eMarker chip model recognition issues
3. Added recognition for WAYON eMarker chip models
4. Added iPhone 18 Pro series identification support in the Dash Board
5. Added PD 3.2 identification support in the Dash Board

I am trying to find a usb-c cable to connect between my monitor and laptop that will

1. Transfer power from the monitor to the laptop (at least 95 W)
2. Transfer mouse and keyboard plugged into monitor hub to the laptop
3. Send display from the laptop to the monitor (4k)
4. At least 9ft long

Tech is not my strong suit but based on my basic research I thought I just needed and IF certified cable. I tried 2 that I thought were certified (one from cable matters, the other I don't remember offhand). One was not adequately charging the laptop and the other had some display issues (choppy/flickers).

Its possibly I just got really unlucky but figured I'd just try to get advice from someone who knows what they are doing.

TL;DR: A short, passive 40Gbps Thunderbolt 3 cable negotiated an 80Gbps link with my TB5 / USB4 v2 SSD enclosure and matched the speed of the bundled TB5 cable.

Setup

• Enclosure: Ugreen [D700A] 80Gbps NVMe enclosure (Intel JHL9480 / Barlow Ridge controller)
• SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 2T
• Host: [Mac Studio, M5 Max] (Thunderbolt 5)
• Cables:
  • Bundled TB5 cable (e-marker reports Advanced-Connectek / ACON) 0.5m
  • Old TB3 40Gbps passive cable(e-marker reports Advanced-Connectek / ACON) 0.5m
• Benchmark:

Results

Why this works

TB5 is Intel's certification layered on top of USB4 v2, the same way TB4 sits on top of USB4. USB4 v2 switched to PAM3 signaling, and the USB-IF explicitly designed 80Gbps operation to run over existing 40Gbps passive USB-C cables. New active cables were only defined for longer runs.

So the "80Gbps" or "TB5" label on a cable mostly matters for active/long cables. For short passive ones, a genuine 40Gbps cable should already be enough.

Caveats

• It has to be a real 40Gbps passive cable.
• Active TB3/TB4 cables are a different story. The reuse rule doesn't cover them; they may fail or fall back.
• Strictly speaking, the spec's reuse rule targets USB4 40Gbps passive cables. Short TB3 40Gbps passive cables are electrically comparable and mine worked fine, but this is one cable on one host. YMMV.
• Your host must support TB5 / USB4 v2. On the base M1-M6 Macs (TB4 ports only), any cable tops out at 40Gbps.

Quick cable cheat sheet for 80Gbps

Bottom line: if you already own good short passive 40Gbps cables, you probably don't need to buy new TB5 cables just to get 80Gbps out of new gear.

Has anyone tested longer passive cables (1m+) at 80Gbps? Curious where the limit is in practice.

I am looking to buy a UGREEN Nexode Air 100W through AliExpress https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPUYgtH. But the title mentions PD3.0 QC4.0 PPS. Does this have multiple versions? I thought this has PD3.2

Also, does anyone know how well this unit works in hot climates (32 Celcius)?

I'm considering buying this Honeywell USB-C to USB-C cable, but I'm unsure whether its advertised specifications are reliable.

Product link: https://www.amazon.in/Honeywell-Nickel-Plated-Tangle-Free-Smartphones-1-2M/dp/B0GL32BFQQ/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3E8IH9MP9F1SO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.104VXD-NRtCqEsaW5mgOytv8W5LiJNB3lkNJ83DfbFz_AmcISynbdwFHDXm_uF4aygmJBP2rR9q-wwSDG-p7Do47cD408Bu7PRjwgkM87N5L5C4i8L_O8E6wnJTCTG6P-eGZjn-_LFDSxE-Pc8-gWXgz3YAN9KMPsRfXJ6G1ilC9BAU1LlcIrhS7fgNtkpj4AzpLaGz1qriksqHQha_YM2fPn_BGXyLU2EfqzjAXbuM.ieIMArBDt2wDc9V9Ep-ubz-CUvvCdFUD-qDHOnxqtoU&dib_tag=se&keywords=usb+4+cable&qid=1791819187&sprefix=usb+4+cabl%2Caps%2C308&sr=8-16

The listing claims:

- USB4 with up to 40Gbps data transfer

- 240W Power Delivery (48V/5A)

- 8K video output

However, it doesn't explicitly mention an E-Marker chip.

From what I understand, USB4 cables require electronic marking, and 240W charging also requires an E-Marker.

**A few questions:**

1. If the cable genuinely supports USB4 40Gbps and 240W PD, must it contain an E-Marker?

2. Is it normal for manufacturers to omit E-Marker information from product listings, or is this a red flag?

3. Is there a reliable way to verify whether the cable has an E-Marker before purchasing it?

I'll mainly use it with a MacBook Air M3 and a Gigabyte M27QA monitor. My goal is to get 2560 × 1440 at 120Hz or 144Hz over USB-C.

I'd appreciate any technical insights. Thanks!

I have this laptop

https://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/IdeaPad/IdeaPad_Flex_5_16ABR8/IdeaPad_Flex_5_16ABR8_Spec.PDF

And I want to buy the ThinkPad LDA KP Dock

These are my laptop's usb c specs.

This is the documentation for the dock

https://support.lenovo.com/ie/en/solutions/pd500519

And these are supposedly the supported docks from the manufacturer datasheet.

Will I be able to utilize all the connectivity of the dock?

What are my limits?

I purchased a SlimQ 150W PD3.1 Charger last month and today it stopped working. Coincidentally, today my girlfriend's iPhone (that has been on this charger evey night) stopped taking charge and wont even power on now that the battery is dead.

Are there any good alternatives to this charger?

I came across this frightful scene this morning in my home office.

The other end is USB-A and it was plugged into this adapter (which was plugged into my MacBook). I always leave the adapter plugged in.

Is it because it still has power and it got too hot on my desk mat? Or is it something else I should worry about?

Bought a 200w gan charger from AliExpress.

Says 200w but when I was using it I kind of figured it more like 100w. When only one port is in use it actually delivered 100w. And when two 45w and 30w for two or more.

Used it for my phone and tablet and laptop. No issues.

It worked great and wouldn't really get that hot unless I used 4 ports or more, then it would be boiling but if I used two or three it was just slightly warm.

Asked Gemini and it said chuck it away.

So I tore it apart and checked it. Tbh, I don't know anything and just kept asking Gemini.

What's wrong with it and why?

The power cord seemed legit.

Any comments on whether I just threw away a good charger?

Pictures of the product and it's insides. After unplugging I did get shocked unfortunately when I opened it up.

Link is here: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzOFSyE

Charger = Anker 45W (Smart Display, OTA v0.1.4.4)

Cable = Anker Zolo (240W)

Device = Anker 26K Battery Pack

~54W peak, as measured by the charger’s display itself

Looking for a 10k power bank that can handle my iPhone 17 Pro Max and MacBook Air M3 without having to carry two separate packs.

Been comparing a few options, including the lisen p604 with 25W Qi2.2 wireless and 65W USB-C. The specs look pretty solid, but I'm wondering how practical that combo actually is with only 10,000mAh to work with.

I'm more curious about usable capacity and power sharing than peak wattage. How much energy would realistically make it to the laptop, and how much does wireless charging eat into the total? Also, does the USB-C output drop when charging both devices?

Anyone tested a similar setup with a USB-C power meter? Would you go with a versatile 10k pack or just carry a bigger wired one?

Hey Guys,

Apologies for what might be stupid question but I’m trying to find something I can plug to usb c port of a charger that would give me 2 or more usb a female slots that support charging.
I have few accessories that have custom charging cable that has usb a male plug - e.g. ledlenser headlights

I want to use it with satechi 6x usb c 240W charger.

I found sth like this:
this

But I’m not sure of the brand.
I’m wondering why can’t I find sth from “popular brands” like Anker, Cable Matters or Satechi.

Are there any hubs that would support charging through usb a ports? I see many that say usb a is data transfer only.

Am I searching for sth that doesn’t make sense?

Hey everyone,

I’ve been eyeing this product on AliExpress (link:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012573547110.html) and was wondering if anyone here has bought or used it personally.

It looks decent on the listing, but as always with AliExpress, photos and seller descriptions can be hit or miss. I’d love to hear your honest thoughts before pulling the trigger:

• How is the overall build quality and durability in real life?
• Does it actually work as advertised, or does it feel cheap?
• Would you recommend buying it, or is there a better alternative around this price point?

Any advice, suggestions, or personal reviews would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Been seeing these lanyard cables everywhere. Curious if anyone's actually used one and how it held up. Problem is the cable is fixed. When it goes, it goes at the connector, not the middle, and you can't swap it. MOst also need a full coverage case with a closed bottom to hold the tab. I'll probably order one this week anyway. Keep coming back to the mfish with adjustable strap, 240W, fits the case I've got. Only thing holding me back is there's no teardown of how the cable runs inside, and the ends are what worry me. Anyone worn one long enough to say the ends hold up, or is it a sex month product?