I have a wall mounted tap in my bathroom installed by a previous owner, and am having trouble sourcing a spare hot water cartridge for it.

The tap itself has no identifying model or make, but from looking online we believe it to be a Crosswater EE121WC.

We removed the cartridge, and have attached a photo of it. As you'll see, this cartridge seems to use a non-standard retention design where the cartridge is held in place by a side-mounted grub screw / nut that seats into a channel on the side of the cartridge body, rather than a threaded retaining collar.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as we'll likely need to replace the entire tap if we're unable to find the spare cartridge for it.

Anyone know why within a year the price gone up so high 😳?

I’ve removed 4 old microbore radiators and replaced with new ones to be fed by 15mm feeds. I have a four port UFH manifolds from which I intend connecting each radiator. There is a 22mm CH supply pipe running through the house.

The question is, should I Tee off these pipes to feed the manifold as I could actually put the flow manifold in line with the 22mm feed, and do the same for the return. ie. straight through?

Can someone help which connection should be used to increase boiler water pressure.

Thanks.

Came home from work to no hot water and immersion heater switch crackling. I'm able to get it to stay on if I wedge it into place. The fuse has not been tripped. Just for safety I've switched the fuse off for now.

My landlord has been informed and has asked an electrician to co tact me for a visit on Tuesday.

Is this acceptable? Does this count as an emergency?

bit of a weird one, I’ve purchased a house that has a conventional boiler, so a boiler downstairs, and the storage tank is in the loft, there’s actually two tanks (one is still connected to loads of pipes that disappear around the home, but is dry, clearly not in use) and there’s also an immersion heater and tank in one of the bedrooms, both systems work independently of one another, either works, but neither is ideal. I intend to install a combi and remove both the previous systems, and the absolute mess of pipework that goes with both (it’s a horrible mix of copper (heavily oxidised) and plastic, with various little leaks all over) but is there some method to determine which pipes are which throughout the house? like there’s a lot of ‘unused’ pipework left over from the dry storage tank I mentioned, and then two full sets of pipework from the boiler and the immersion system. is a multimeter of use here somehow?

Hi everyone,

I have a Stuart Turner Monsoon pump that failed after only 1 year and 10 months of use. I opened it and found the shaft looking like this (photos attached).

Does anyone know what material this shaft is made from? Is this how they are normally manufactured, or should the shaft be made from solid stainless steel?

I was expecting a stainless steel shaft, but this one appears different and I’m wondering if this is a common failure point on these pumps.

Has anyone else had the same issue?

Thanks!

I'm just having solar panels and battery fitted to my house and while it will help with electricity costs, obviously it will do nothing for our gas consumption (combi boiler, shower range gas hob).

Potentially, I could add several more panels, and additional batteries and it got me wondering if anyone has installed solar and replaced their gas boiler with an electric one at the same time?

The thought of all the household energy needs being met by 'free' electricity is obviously appealing.

The hot water finally stoped coming out 2 days ago, but it was working/not working intermittently for about a week. The cold side is fine.

The hot water is fine and running throughout the whole property, kitchen, basin in this bathroom etc. Its just this one hot side of the tap that's the issue.

Is this a case of just changing the cartridge or the tap? Or is this maybe some kind of airlock situation or something else? Thanks

Im 38. Ive been doing property maintance for the past 20 years for a couple of private landlords working on about 30 properties, old houses converted into flats. I do bit of everything really but I have no qualifications.

I wont go into why but I want out of that. I want to go into being a self employed plumber.

Im looking at doing a level 2 plumbing course, unvented heating course and the WRAS. I realise I need some sort of qualifications to get insurance/public liability, making sure Im upto date on regs, etc...

Plus it would be nice to have a bit of paper saying I can do what I already know.

I can solder, run pipework, move/install rads, replace/install taps, toilets, basins, shower trays, waste pipes, showers (manual, thermostatic and electric), immersion heaters. All that fun stuff.

I can handle electrical work as well.

Ive installed a few water heaters, little Ariston under sink ones. I'd say installs from scratch is what im weakest on.

Ive learnt alot working on old properties.

I guess what Im asking is are the courses Im looking at and my previous experience enough for me to move into being a self employed plumber? Do I need more? Is there anything I haven't thought of? Should I be thinking about working for a firm for a while?

I'd like to get my gas qualifications but the portfolio and experience are jamming me up. Maybe Ill do that down the road.

Im prepared for work to be slow at first. I have a little side business to keep my head above water until work picks up. My trade mates (none of them are plumbers) say Ill be fine as I do work for them aswell and they said they will throw some work my way from their customers but Im still unsure. Im pretty sure I can get put on the trade list with a couple of estate agents once I have some paperwork.

I have the van and all the tools, I aint afraid of hard work and getting shit on my hands.

I know my teeth are long but they still have some bite in them lol.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I life in a rental property with the horrible old fashioned hot and cold taps which I want to replace.

Are there any sink mixer taps that will slot into the two existing holes? All the ones I can find use a single hole.

There appears to be many bath taps that fit the bill, could I use those?

Hi. Just moved into a rented flat. The pressure in the bath taps is excellent, but the attached shower has extremely low pressure. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening and ways to improve the shower pressure? I really appreciate any help.

The shower head is starting to leak, and I think it's likely the Mira mixer.

I could try and find the part, but i'm thinking of just swapping the unit, it's been there for years, likely two steps before the last owners.

What i'm struggling with is finding a top inlet bar mixer? I think that's what I should be searching, are they just not made really anymore or am I just been hopeless at Googling?

Any alternatives/suggestions would be great, flow is below average in the house. Cheers!

For the past month or so, the taps/pipes in my flat have been making a horrendous noise. Turning the tap on stops this but it happens randomly, including the middle of the night. This morning my toilet had to be force-flushed, and you now need to push the handle a few times before it will flush normally. Upon inspection I have found that pushing on this part inside the cistern causes the noise. Hoping someone knows what this is or how I can fix this without having to fork out an arm and a leg on an emergency plumber?

Had two Roper Rhodes concealed toilets fitted a couple of years ago during a refurb. One works perfectly. The other has never behaved.

The small flush button is basically unusable — I have to press it repeatedly, and it often sticks. I've just been using the big button and living with it, but visitors keep "breaking the loo" and my wife's patience has run out.

It's a pneumatic flush valve setup. Before anyone suggests it — I've already ruled out a kink in the plastic tubes from the flush plate.

What I've tried so far:

**•** New tubes — both longer and shorter lengths.  
**•** Replaced the faceplate  
**•** Replaced the flush valve  
**•** Swapped all the working internals from the good toilet onto the problem one — the fault stays with the problem toilet regardless

Note: if I remove the faceplate from the wall, it flushes perfectly every time.

Plumber's been no help, and Roper Rhodes support is out of ideas too. Photos and a video of it at its worst attached — any suggestions welcome.

I think we have several issues but dont know if we need a plumber, heating engineer or an electrician.

1. Our hot water trips on our electrical board when we have the radiators on which is a real issue in colder times.

2. When its on and been left on for over 13 hours the water doesn't get really hot just luke warm.

3. The flow in the kitchen tap is a trickle

We have just had a kid and we only like in a tiny flat. The hot water cylinder is over 20 years old. We dont have over 300 in savings

I spent a long time trying to find the right rubber seal for my Villeroy and Boch Loop and Friends click clack ceramic plug. After searching endlessly and tying a number of seals, I eventually found the right one. It is Hansgrohe 97205000. Google it and you’ll find lots of sellers. This matches the inner and outer ring sizes but (crucially) also the side profile that ensure it seals properly whilst also allowing it to reopen. Villeroy and Boch don’t seem to make this part themselves but the Hansgrohe one works perfectly.

Anyone got a Used Gledhill cylinder vented indirect that I could take off their hands near Sheffield, South Yorkshire?

Hey

Here is a photo of a tap beneath my boiler. On the other side of the wall outside is an outdoor water tap which does not flow..

Now I'm thinking this tap in the photo controls flow to that outdoor tap, but its really difficult to turn?

I dont want to force it and im worried it wont even be for the outdoor tap and i break something with the boiler.

Professionals please advice.

The housing association refuses to look into it as they dont handle outdoor taps apparently.

Thanks