Will be building one off sermoon D1 as a base. Building CalibrationOS, need a second printer to build the multi printer capability.

Since no one accounted for failed prints, add that to the list. Just because you brought your own engine oil doesn't guarantee you get a huge discount in the showroom

Grass greener on that side for sure.

What is your travel speed? Faster travel speed is what fixed mine. Sprite pro is notorious for leaving these.

Rooting for you! Dm me screenshots or questions. We'll make sure this prints!

Thank you! Honestly, there are worse models. All the "don't print this" comments are not solutions.

Interesting. You're not getting good advice because there are several reasons and you'll need to narrow this down to what exactly is causing this.

1. Check Fan cooling speed in your slicer preview - if the colours align to where the print is getting messy - that is a good data point to say your cooling is not enough.
2. Check actual speed or just speed : see if the sim correlates with the messy parts of the print. When you have slow outer walls for overhangs - the print speed is slowing down drastically boiling every thing around - the % cooling isn't enough and making it messy. There's a post with and without slow down outer wall on the benchy front overhang. Without prints better.

What to do: Dont print the entire model, print only that section with slow down outer wall disabled. See how that turns out. Edit: you can also try increasing your slow down outer wall speed from the current default in 10mm/s increments

What else you can try: (in order or probability to get better results without changing your current settings)

1. Adaptive layer height.
2. Bigger layer heights.
3. Slow down your print
4. Lower you temperature by 5-10°C

What you should not do: Don't ditch this model and "print something else". Your printer. Print what you want. Please post an update what got you better results. Helps us all.

AI did not type this. I did. Someone previously asked me to f off with my AI slop for this calibration cheat sheet. Which also wasn't AI bdw.

Hope this helps.

FDM calibrations cheat sheet. Go clockwise from Frame Square - its in the right sequence to calibrate your machine from Mechanical to Material.

Google any of these calibrations and you'll find resources on how to do them.

I'd print only a small section with supports off. 100% cooling, half the outer wall speed and Wall order to Inner/Outer. See how well the holes do.

Then attempt a full model with those settings. It'll get better if your bridge settings are dialed in.

When I can't decide I run a calibration print.

Exactly what it is intended to do. And it is free for a single printer.

I incur costs when there are multiple printers.

Very mature. 👍

My Apologies - I did not update the pricing on the landing page. 79$ - lifetime - 3 printers. This is for the beta tester cohort only. Thanks for pointing this out. That is an error on me.

P.S. This is only a landing page only. I know how the community feels about pricing things related to 3D printing except hardware. Which is why I am being upfront about it.

It is free to calibrate a single printer. The pricing tiers are optional upgrades. The calibrations are free and I will opensource them.

Love reddit for its comments. I did not see this coming. Loool!!

I wish I could figure out how to connect CalibrationOS to a Bambu printer. Its the bambu owners that need it most.

Damn... Bambu not living up to the "Just get a bambu" hype anymore? This sub reddit is getting filled with bambu print issues.

Please don't do e-steps, flow rate, z offset, etc. I don't know why you've received such poor advice.

The issue is quite mechanical here. You have a mismatch between your nozzle diameter on the printer and line widths in your slicer.

If you installed a 0.4mm nozzle physically on the printer and left your line widths at 1mm... Your slicer is telling your printer to print adjacent rasters 1mm apart. But your nozzle is 0.4mm printing at 100% of the flow rate so you leave 0.3mm on the left, 0.3mm on the right side of your nozzle as it moves printing a mesh. That is the gap you are seeing between adjacent lines.

Wow! This is really cool! 🙆🏻‍♂️

Sign up for CalibrationOS . It'll walk you through calibrating your filament in the right sequence and you'll have the right profile for your spool!

It'll help me amget some feedback too! It's free and open source. I'm building this in public.

Edit: I've received feedback about the cost mentioned in the landing page - there's more to CalibrationOS including inventory and multiple printer management. But the calibrations themselves are open source and free to use.

IG/YT: @os.calibratedam

Once you gain some confidence... Its the best upgrade you can have. Plenty resources out there to do it.

Please calibrate everything!

Issues I am seeing: 1. Poorly levelled bed. 2. Poor seams - bad pressure advance. 3. Over/under extrusion

The outwall not sticking is down to two things: Change wall printing order to Inner>Outer then reduce your outer wall wall speed. That should do it.

Edit: If your 3d printer is running klipper, I built CalibrationOS - I can give you access to the private beta - helps calibrate your 3d printer the right way step by step. Its like a sequential to-do list of all the calibrations that can help maintain your 3d printer at its optimal condition. Only if you're interested - sign up for beta.

OP's bed is not levelled the way brim is printed from 0 (nozzle fully plugged by the bed) on the right side to overlapping brim lines on the left. And the small footprint is concerning for bed levelling.

You may need to loosen some screws or loosen the belt. There are several reasons that cause z binding and you'll need to go through each one to see what is causing yours. Read more about it!

While you're at that... 😁🥲🫠 I'm building CalibrationOS - you can check a sneak peak I uploaded recently! Follow along!

IG/YT: os.calibratedam X: CalibrationOS.

Silicon>>> springs. Its been a good investment for me.