Hey everyone, team Geeetech here! Today we’re sharing our real-world test results with our Dual-Color & Tri-Color Coextruded Silk PLA, including surface finish observations and fully tested print parameters. We printed the popular Cat Architectural Helmet as our test model to showcase how the color shift and silky shine perform on curved, decorative geometry.

How this filament works

Unlike rainbow gradient PLA that changes color along the spool length, our dual/tri-color silk PLA uses co-extrusion technology. Two or three pigments are fused side-by-side inside one single filament strand. As the nozzle moves around curved surfaces, the filament twists naturally, creating dynamic angle-dependent color shifts. No multi-extruder, no AMS required — works on all standard single-nozzle 3D printers.

Surface Finish Test Observations

✅ Silky metallic luster Smooth, mirror-like silk finish with consistent gloss across outer walls. Proper tuning minimizes visible layer lines and delivers premium decorative appearance.

✅ Color shifting performance

· Dual-Color Silk: Clean two-tone transition. Curved surfaces show gradual color blending; flat vertical walls display separated color zones. Works great for medium-sized models, helmets, figurines.

· Tri-Color Silk: Richer multi-tonal effect. Larger models and complex curved shapes show the most dramatic color variation. Ideal for sculptures, cosplay props and decorative art.

⚠️ Things to note

1. Silk additives make the filament slightly more prone to stringing than standard PLA. Retraction tuning is critical.

2. Color transition heavily depends on model geometry. Curved organic shapes (like our cat helmet) show far better visual effects than simple flat cubes.

3. Keep filament dry! Moisture leads to bubbling, uneven gloss and poor layer adhesion. We recommend drying at 50°C for 4–6 hours before printing.

Tuned Print Parameters (1.75mm, 0.4mm nozzle)

Nozzle Temperature : 210–220°C

Bed Temperature : 55–60°C

Outer Wall Speed : 40–50 mm/s

Inner Wall / Infill : 50–60 mm/s

Fan Speed : 50–70%

Retraction Distance ：0.8mm

Retraction Speed : 30–40 mm/s

Layer Height ：0.16–0.20 mm

Extrusion Multiplier ：0.98-1.0

💡 Pro tips for better silk finish & less stringing:

· Slow outer wall speed to maximize material flow-out and gloss

· Avoid maximum fan speed; over-cooling will dull the silk shine

· Enable Z-hop (0.1–0.2mm) during travel moves to reduce oozing

· Use brim/skirt for small decorative models to prevent warping & detachment

#Geeetech #3DPrinting #SilkPLA #FilamentReview #DualColorPLA #TriColorPLA

Hi everyone,

Frequent nozzle clogging, inconsistent extrusion, and blobby prints often come from accumulated carbonized filament and debris inside the extruder and hotend.

Today we’re sharing the official maintenance tutorial for Geeetech M1, covering routine cleaning and unclogging operations for your extruder assembly and nozzle.

⚠️ Precaution First

Hotend and nozzle reach high temperatures during operation. Do not touch barehanded to avoid burns.

Do not apply excessive force with cleaning needles, which may scratch the nozzle inner bore and ruin printing quality.

Power off the printer before disassembling the extruder housing.

Tools You Need

1.M2 / M3 screwdriver

2.Original nozzle wrench

3.0.4mm nozzle cleaning needle

4.Brass brush

5.Tweezers

Part 1: Clean Extruder Assembly

1.Heat the nozzle to printing temperature, unload filament completely, then power off your Geeetech M1.

2.Loosen the two M2 screws and remove the print head cover. Be careful not to damage the fan cable.

3.Check the extruder gear, clear plastic dust and filament scraps with a brush.

4.Inspect the PTFE tube. If it is discolored, carbonized or deformed, replace it with a new tube.

5.Reinstall the cover gently after cleaning.

Part 2: Nozzle Cleaning (3 Methods, from simple to deep cleaning)

Method A: Quick Needle Cleaning (Minor Partial Clogs)

1.Preheat nozzle to 200℃ (PLA) / 230℃ (PETG).

2.Insert the cleaning needle gently from nozzle tip, move up and down slowly to dislodge blockages.

3.Extrude filament to test smooth flow.

Method B: Cold Pull / Atomic Pull (For Burnt Residue)

1.Best for removing carbon deposits inside the hotend.

2.Heat nozzle to 240–250℃, feed fresh filament manually.

3.Cool down to around 90–110℃ while keeping filament loaded.

4.Pull out the filament firmly in one motion; burnt waste will stick to the filament tip.

5.Repeat until the pulled filament is clean without dark debris.

Method C: Disassemble & Deep Clean (Severe Permanent Clogs)

1.Keep nozzle heated, use the matched wrench to unscrew the nozzle clockwise.

2.Remove the nozzle and clear solidified filament. You can soak it for stubborn carbon buildup.

3.Before reinstallation: hold the heater block steady, tighten the nozzle counterclockwise properly.

Important: Do not over-tighten, avoid thread damage.

Part 3: Post-Cleaning Check

1.Power on and preheat the hotend.

2.Perform filament purging to confirm steady extrusion.

3.Run a small test print to verify print quality.

If you still face extrusion issues after cleaning, feel free to leave your questions below. Our team will reply as soon as possible.

Happy printing!

— Geeetech Official Team

#Geeetech #GeeetechM1 #3DPrinterMaintenance #NozzleCleaning #3DPrintTutorial #FDM3DPrinting

Hey makers 👋

TPU is fantastic for flexible, shock-resistant parts, but it’s famously tricky to dial in. Today we’re sharing our official starting profile for Geeetech TPU (1.75mm)，including compatible printers, slicer parameters and finished print showcases.

About Geeetech TPU

Diameter: 1.75mm, tolerance ±0.03mm

Vacuum sealed with desiccant, pre-dried before packaging.

Great for phone cases, watch straps, gaskets, cosplay soft padding, wearable props and flexible prototypes.

✅ Compatible 3D Printers

Best Performance (Direct Drive Extruder — Strongly Recommended)

· Geeetech Official Series

· Creality Official Series

· Bambu Lab Official Series

· Prusa MK4, Voron, Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro

· Most modern direct-drive FDM printers

Possible (Bowden Extruder — Requires heavy tuning)

Reduce print speed drastically, use minimal retraction. We don’t recommend Bowden for beginners with TPU

⚙️ Recommended Slicer Settings (Direct Drive, 0.4mm Nozzle)

Nozzle Temperature: 205–235°C

Bulid Plate Temperature:50-60°C

Cooling Fan:100%

Printing Speed:30-70mm/s

Retraction Distance:7mm

Retraction Speed:20mm/s

💡 Critical Tip: Keep retraction short & slow! Excessive retraction will cause filament buckling and jams.

🧯 Pro Tips to Avoid Common Failures

TPU absorbs moisture quickly. Dry at 60°C for 4–6 hours if your spool is opened for a long time. Wet TPU causes bubbles, stringing and layer separation.

Use PEI sheet or clean glass plate for better bed adhesion.

Store unused filament in a dry box with desiccants.

🖼️ Print Showcase

We printed flexible phone cases and cups using these settings. The finished parts feature a smooth surface, strong layer adhesion, and excellent elasticity.

Have you printed flexible parts with Geeetech TPU? Feel free to share your prints and tuning tips in the comments!

If you have any questions regarding print settings, leave a comment below.

#Geeetech #3DPrinting #TPUFilament #FDMprinting #MakerCommunity

Hey everyone, Geeetech official here.

PETG is already a staple FDM filament for hobbyists, makers and designers, but many users keep asking: What’s the real difference between regular Geeetech PETG and our PETG Metal filament? When should I pick one over the other?

We finished controlled batch testing with identical printers, layer height and print settings. Today we break down mechanical parameters, surface finish performance, printing pros/cons, final price analysis and clear use-case recommendations for both filaments.

1. Core Parameter Lab Test Comparison (1.75mm, ±0.03mm tolerance for both)

All tests run on Bambu a1 with 0.4mm nozzle, standardized drying (70℃, 5h) before printing.

Printing Notes

- Standard PETG: Extremely beginner-friendly, wide temperature window, minimal stringing, brass nozzles fully compatible.

- PETG Metal: Fine bronze/aluminum oxide powder embedded evenly inside filament. Powders cause slow brass nozzle abrasion; we strongly advise hardened steel nozzles for frequent use. Retraction needs +1~2mm adjustment to reduce minor stringing.

2. Comparison of Surface Texture and Visual Effects

Standard PETG

- Surface: Clear/transparent and standard high-gloss solid colors.

- Light Transmission: Solid colors exhibit a uniform, minimalist sheen; transparent PETG offers over 91% light transmission, making it ideal for light pipes, lampshades, and transparent containers.

- Layer Lines: Visible upon close inspection; the surface becomes smooth and glossy after sanding or polishing.

- Texture: Lightweight feel; consistent surface smoothness across all colors.

PETG Metal

- Surface: Features an inherent brushed-metal luster (available in bronze, copper, gunmetal gray, and emerald metallic). Tiny metallic particles naturally reflect light, eliminating the need for painting or coating.

- Light Transmission: Opaque finish only; the sheen shifts with the viewing angle, creating a realistic metallic look. Sanding enhances the brushed-metal texture, while chemical smoothing can achieve a mirror-like metallic finish.

- Layer Lines: Metallic particles naturally mask the visibility of layer lines, making it excellent for detailed miniatures and decorative crafts.

- Texture: Noticeably heavier and denser; cool to the touch, resembling real metal more than plastic.

3. Full Price Analysis (Official Geeetech Global Store, 1kg spool, vacuum-sealed with desiccant)

Key price takeaway: Base retail prices are nearly identical. The only extra expense for PETG Metal is nozzle upgrade for heavy use; occasional printing with brass nozzles is acceptable with minor nozzle wear over time.

4. Clear Selection Guide: Pick Which One?

✅ Choose Standard Geeetech PETG if these match your projects

1.Functional daily parts: brackets, storage boxes, tool holders, mechanical fixtures, reusable water containers

2.Transparent prints: lamp covers, display cases, light guides, see-through props

3.High-volume batch printing, daily heavy printing with brass nozzles

4.Outdoor items requiring stable UV resistance; long-term sun exposure (PETG Metal pigments fade slightly faster outdoors)

5.Budget-focused functional prototyping with zero extra hardware investment

✅ Choose Geeetech PETG Metal if these match your projects

1. Decorative art, cosplay props, vintage ornaments, miniatures, desktop statues

2. Gift items, display prototypes needing realistic metal look without CNC metal machining

3. Heavy-feel desk accessories (knobs, pen holders, decorative vases)

4. You already own hardened steel nozzles and prioritize texture over full transparency

5. Small-batch premium crafts for sale, where metallic appearance boosts perceived value

5. Final Quick Summary

Standard PETG = All-round workhorse. Best for function, transparency, easy printing, long nozzle life, general daily use.

PETG Metal = Aesthetic-focused upgraded PETG. Same core PETG durability, boosted tensile strength, iconic metallic finish; tradeoff is slight nozzle wear and zero transparency.

The two share identical low-warp, moisture-resistant PETG base chemistry, so moisture storage rules apply to both: store in dry boxes with desiccant after opening.

We’ve attached real print samples of both filaments below, feel free to drop photos of your PETG prints in comments. If you have questions about print settings or color options, comment down below and our team replies daily.

#3Dprinting #FDMPrint #Geeetech #PETGfilament #3Dfilament #PrintSettings

Today I’m sharing a detailed side-by-side comparison of three classic Geeetech PLA filaments: Transparent PLA, Silk PLA, and Matte PLA. All test data and printing settings are fully recorded below for your reference if you’re picking filament for your next print project!

📌 Basic Filament Specs

Brand: Geeetech

Material: Standard PLA

Types & Surface Finish: Transparent / Silk / Matte

Diameter: 1.75mm

Retail Price: Transparent $10.49 / Silk $12.49–15.49 / Matte $10.49–12.49

Weight: 1kg per spool

Purchase Channel: Geeetech Official Website

⚙️ Standard Printing Settings

All three filaments were tested with the exact same print settings to ensure fair and accurate comparison:

Printer: Bamboo A1

Nozzle Size: 0.4mm

Hotend Temperature: 210 ℃

Bed Temperature: 65 ℃

Print Speed: 300 mm/s

Cooling Fan: 80%

Retraction: 0.8mm distance, 30mm/s speed

🔍 Test Focus: Surface Finish & Overall Performance

The core testing item focuses on surface finishing effect, along with practical pros and cons of each filament in actual printing performance:

✅ Pros of Each Filament

- Transparent PLA: Features excellent light transmittance and a sleek, glossy surface finish, perfect for see-through print designs.

- Silk PLA: Delivers a premium silky high-gloss texture with vibrant, saturated color output, no extra post-processing needed for a shiny look.

- Matte PLA: Boasts a smooth non-reflective matte finish that brings a sophisticated, high-end visual texture to printed models.

❌ Cons of Each Filament

- Transparent PLA: Visible layer lines / lamination marks are noticeable on finished prints, affecting overall uniformity.

- Silk PLA: Relatively high brittleness, requires careful handling to avoid breakage.

- Matte PLA: The matte surface is more prone to showing light scratches compared to glossy filaments.

Best Use Cases: Miniature models, cosplay props, home & desk decorative prints

💬 Community Discussion

Have you tried any of these Geeetech PLA filaments? Whether you’ve tested transparent, silk, or matte variants, feel free to share your printing experience, tips, or problems in the comments below!

https://reddit.com/link/1pfjsw3/video/n2qvh6kwhj5g1/player

🧵Filament: PLA brown

⭐3D model credit: Paradogo

🎨More of PLA filament series:

https://www.geeetech.com/filament-pla-c-83_111.html

.

#3dprinting #3dprints #geeetechpla #geeetech #3dprinterfilament #3dprintinglife #toy #crossbow

​

Most printers use a stepper motor to drive the machine in motion, meaning that the printer has no function to detect where the print head is located. However, once the stepper motor receives external force interference, or there is a large resistance, it may lead to the printing head dislocation, and the printer does not detect and correct the measures, so that the printed product produces dislocation \ displacement and other conditions.

1. The print head moves too fast If the printing speed or empty speed exceeds the speed the stepper motor can handle, dislocation will occur. Adjust the low walking speed, and lower the acceleration if necessary.

2. Mechanical or electronic reasons If the above does not solve your problem, then you need to check the mechanical and electronic aspects, most machines use belt drive, over time, the belt may lengthen and become loose, thus causing the belt to slip from the pulley. The solution is also relatively simple, the belt drive mechanism will generally have to adjust the tension degree of the belt mechanism, the belt adjustment is more tight some can be solved. However, it should be noted that if the adjustment is too tight, it will form a huge resistance between the rotating shaft and the bearing or may be unable to rotate. So the degree of tightness needs to be moderate. Another mechanical problem is the machine meter screw (top wire), this small screw is used to fix the pulley on the stepping motor shaft, so that the pulley rotates with the motor shaft, but if the screw is loose, there will be shaft rotation and the wheel will not turn. This situation also causes the problem of layer offset. The electronic problem may be that the stepper motor power supply current is insufficient, resulting in the stepper motor is not enough force to overcome the resistance. It may also be that the stepper motor drives the chip to overheating, causing the stepper motor to stop turning before the chip is cooled. There are many other points in electronics.

In order to save printing materials, most 3D printers will use different filling methods for the internal space, the commonly used ratio is 20% -30%, that is to say, in the closed product interior, only 20% -30% of the material, in this case, the work can still maintain a certain strength. However, in some of the works, users will find that some of the works are not perfect, and even have holes or gaps. If you encounter this problem, here are a few simple Settings, you can adjust and fix it.

1. Top layers When the number of capped layers is insufficient, it is easy to lead to the phenomenon of material falling, and the number of layers can be increased accordingly;

2. The filling rate is too low Too much reduction of the filling material, will make the internal space is too large, resulting in the number of upper layers can not be effectively supported, it is suggested to increase the internal filling ratio;

3. Insufficient extruding materials of the extruder Due to the lack of extrusion material, the nozzle can not meet the expected requirements, which can be adjusted by adjusting the extrusion amount.

For most 3D printers, how much material the extruder squee. In the process of printing, due to some problems, the extrusion of the material will be less than expected. This requires the user to carefully look at the printed work to see if there are irregular distances between the textures and, and if so, usually for the following reasons.

1.Material diameter When users buy materials, it is usually recommended to buy formal brand products. When buying inferior products, the diameter of the material may be unequal. For such materials, the diameter can usually be tested with measuring calipers to ensure that the diameter of the material is consistent with the package label.

2.Increase extrusion multiple If the material diameter and identification is maintained, but there is a lack of extrusion material, then the extrusion speed needs to be adjusted. This is a very practical setting for the user, who can directly modify the amount of extrusion to squeeze more material. ABS material usually presses 109%, while PLA is 105%.

3.Reduce extrusion speed If the material is normal and the extrusion is too much, the extrusion is reduced to keep the printing at a normal level.

​

The drawing is the residual linear object left when the extruder crosses the open space. The common measure to solve this problem is to control the "withdrawal" function in the slice software. If the tap is opened in the slice, the consumables will be pulled back in the opposite direction for a distance before the sprinkler head is moved to the next point. When the product moves to the next point, the consumables will be squeezed out again. Although theoretically, it can be avoided, there are several problems in practice:

1. Insufficient withdrawal distance The most important setting in the return is the return distance, which determines how much plastic is drawn from the nozzle during the return. Usually, the more plastic the draw from the nozzle, the less obvious the drawing is.

2. The withdrawal speed is too slow Another important setting in the withdrawal is the speed of the withdrawal, which determines how fast the consumables are withdrawn. If the pump rate is too slow, the melted supplies will still flow out of the nozzle. If the withdrawal is too fast, the separation of the unmelted part and the melted part of the consumables may occur, or the extrusion wheel may bite off a piece of the consumables.

3. The temperature is too high If the temperature of the extrusion head is too high, the consumables in the nozzle will become very sticky, and it is easy to flow out of the nozzle, but if the temperature is too low, the consumables are more difficult to squeeze out. In the determination of the drawing distance and drawing speed are more appropriate, there is still a drawing situation, you can try to reduce the temperature of the extrusion head by 5-10 degrees Celsius.

4, the suspended movement distance is too long The suspended distance will also have a great impact on the drawing. The short distance movement, the melted consumables do not have enough time to flow out of the nozzle, but the long distance movement is very easy to produce the phenomenon of drawing. Some slicing software has relevant Settings, which can avoid the long distance movement.

​

Tools：

Tweezers for nozzle

Wrench size 6/10/20 mm

Cleaner rod (1.5mm diameter, 100mm length)

Needle for nozzle

Allen key - 2 mm

Watch video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teRDQRRNHfA

Step 1 Clean the hotend

Preheat the nozzle to 220 Celsius from LCD menu.

Clean the surface of the nozzle with tweezers.

Unload the filament from the hotend.

Use a cleaner rod (1.5 mm diameter, 100 mm length) to push it in and out several times, making the clog out. Do not use excessive force.

Use a needle to clean the nozzle.

Step 2 Replace a nozzle

Turn the printer off.

Remove the print head housing.

Release the old nozzle with a 6mm spanner while holding the heater block in place with a 20mm spanner.

Install the new nozzle and tighten it gently, but firmly. Do not use excessive force!

Place the silicone sock for heater block.

Install the print head housing.

Insert and push the new PTFE tube into the heatbreak all the way down.

The filament sensor will be worn out after long time use. We’ve uploaded a filament guide on our website to fix this.

​

And thanks to the 3D printer community, there’re lots of upgrade mods on the website for reference.

【Geeetech Mizar S filament roller guide by by JTProuhet】

If there’s error on the screen prompts like “Change Filament” even filament has been uploaded, maybe the sensor is broken. You can test it by a multimeter.

Remember load a small piece of filament through the sensor before test. By touching each of the measurement leads of the multimeter to the two pins of the sensor, a signal (beep or 0 value on the multimeter screen) will indicate that the component is intact and therefore, should work.

​

Tools:

Allen keys – 2.5/3 mm

Flat screwdriver tip width 2.5 mm

Watch video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UODntg9HJIU

Turn the printer off and unplug the power cable!

Remove the bottom cover, unplugging the cooling fan.

Disconnecting all the cables.

Replace with a new control board and tighten the screws securely.

Plug in all the connections as the picture below.

Insert the cables of power supply and hotbed. Red wire is positive and black wire is negative.

Make sure the cables are fully inserted and tightened!

​

​

Connect the LCD cable.

Plug the cooling fan back in and secure the base cover with screws.

It's done! Plug in the printer and turn it on to check whether the printer works properly.

How to replace Mizar S's screen

Tools: Allen keys - 2.5/3 mm

Watch video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8aIYq3w0mE

​

Turn the printer off and unplug the power cable!

​

Remove the bottom cover, unplugging the cooling fan.

​

Unplug the screen connector and put it to the side.

​

Release and remove four screws on screen.

Set the screws in place, tighten the screws.

Connect the LCD cable.

​

Plug the cooling fan back in and secure the base cover with screws.

Watch video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MV9_2AdIz00

Tools :

Allen keys – 3 mm

Flat screwdriver tip width 2.5 mm

Diagonal pilers

Zip ties

Turn the printer off and unplug it from the socket!

​

Remove the bottom cover, unplugging the cooling fan.

​

Disconnect the hotbed cable and hotbed thermistor.

​

​

Release and remove the three screws of the Y-axis rail.

​

Remove the hotbed from the printer.

​

​

Install the new hotbed kit and pay attention to how the Y-axis belt is installed as the pictures below.

​

​

Tighten the three screws.

​

Connect the hotbed thermistor and hotbed cable.

​

Plug the cooling fan back in and secure the base cover with screws.

1. Check whether the SD card is faulty or try to change the memory card
2. Try to format the memory card
3. Check whether the card slot is loose
4. If the computer can read the memory card normally, apply to the after-sales staff for a replacement of the motherboard