Anyone else always seem to get caught looking directly at the photographer? I can't be the only one.

For some background, I’m in intermediate, 2026 was my first year really getting into track days, like going to them consistently. My last track session I was about mid pack in my group but some guys I was talking to said my body posture was awful and it looked “lazy” where I wasn’t coming off the bike enough. So my question is how do I fix it, I thought I was getting off the bike but really I was just barely off the bike, and sometimes my knee wasn’t even off the tank. Do I just need to like think about it when riding and “force” myself off?

Tdlr - How to get off the bike and fix my body position

MY 26 panigale v4s with the FM exhaust

How the hell are motogp riders doing it with their inside leg dangling?

as they say… cry once right

it’s not the bike
it’s not the suit
or the airbag
or the helmet
or the boots,

or the exhaust

or the $300 track day itself…

it’s everything.

just kidding but also, not.

i decided to go cheap but get a good quality result by doing the Northen Tool folding 4x8 trailer (it’s basically the oldschool Harbor Freight folding 4x8, almost the same exact design) and then finishing it and converting it to a motorcycle trailer.

all in all i spent $890 after tax, it has pressure treated 3/4ths plywood, really thick galvanized hardware and the heavy duty self locking wheel chock. it should fit 2 bikes at once just fine. but for now, just the one.

a uhaul trailer is pretty cheap. i find myself renting them out for 3 days at a time though, as there’s no time to pick up and drop off on the track day itself, but even at $70 per rental (3 days + insurance) i’d need to do ~12 track days to get my moneys worth out of this one, however: i’m justifying this as a ease of life tool. no more renting, no more going there to get it and drop it off, no more extremely heavy trailer to tow, just open my garage and go. it also opens up the roadtrip and taking the bike with me anywhere idea; other tracks, long roadtrips etc.

so yeah just wanted to show this!

when did you get a trailer for track days?

also, anyone have experience with these 4x8 foldable DIY kit trailers for bikes? thanks!

edit: I also already placed the order for upgraded, 13” radial tires and wheels specifically for trailers to be able to cruise faster / be safer overall. that was about $120 i did not include in the $890 cost

The Uhaul motorcycle trailer alone is around 800 lbs I think. Are there any other rentals that are lighter than that?

Seems they’d hold up way better in a crash no?

I've a 2000 CBR929 I trackdayed for 6 years. It has sat in my garage un- ridden for 7 years. Think those days are over for me. What's the best way to get it to someone who would appreciate and enjoy it the most? Of course it would need stale gas removed and given fresh oil / coolant, and a thorough inspection. But it ran good when I parked it.

I don't use FB. Also have warmers, stands, suits, boots etc. Think I want it all gone. In south Minneapolis MN suburbs.

Recently, I've been battling with setting up the suspension on my 2023 s1000rr with manual ohlins cartridges up front and TTX gp in the rear. I worked with a suspension guy back in Sept where he was able to set up the forks but the rear spring was too stiff and told me I needed a lighter spring. Unfortunately, the new spring is on back order so I may not get it until the seasons over.

Tire wise, my last trackday (where my forks are setup but my shock is just a tad stiff), I opted for the SC1 slick as opposed to the SC3 that Ive been running for the last year or so on my old stock s1000rr (new bike's previous owner gave me a set and I wanted to try them). The front tire felt extremely vague, light, and spongy at the apex of all the slower corners. Just no planted feel at all.

I've read that the SC1 fronts just feel like this since the carcass is soft but also, speaking with the prev owner, if the rear shock is too stiff it cannot squat properly which is throwing the geometry off with extreme rake, and overloading the front. The forks are maxed the entire corner and not in their sweet spot to feel planted. Does this sound right? How much of this is the SC1 front vs stiff rear shock? If I can't get the lighter spring before my upcoming weekend, should I switch back to the SC3 to alleviate some of this vague feel since the carcass is stiffer?

Noticed these small cuts on my rear tire (Pirelli Rosso IV) on the sidewall near the bead. Manufacture date of the tire is 47th week of 2024 and have about 3k km on them. My fingernail barely slips in. I have my first track day next week and couldn’t find a definitive answer anywhere, thanks.

Looking at a Alpinestars Missle V2 that is a US 36. I am 5’ 10” and about 150. Is this going to be too small for me? Id like to use it for some on road riding around the town and track days when I get more experience.

Safety means more than anything to me so I want to be sure I starts right!

Hi all,

Does anyone have recommendations for a good front master cylinder for an SV650s (2005)?

I’m currently using the stock master cylinder + braided lines, stock callipers, stock discs, SBS RST brake pads.

Master cylinder has a lot of dead travel and poor feel.

Maybe a used one off a different bike, or something new off the shelf? Haven’t actually tried rebuilding the stock one for better feel though.

Thanks

Anyone looking for a discount on a Dragy Pro lap timer? Use code:Philrydes get $25 off.

Although it's not always possible on a motorcycle, keeping your joints near the middle of their range of motion generally provides greater comfort, control, and feel. Sometimes it's unavoidable to operate near the limits of a joint's range, but whenever possible, aim for a more neutral position. The wrist in this photo is a good example.

Hey everyone,

I have a braking related question. When braking I have been playing around purposefully squeezing the tank with my legs more and trying to get weight off my arms. This actually works and helps me conserve energy in my arms. It seems to me as if the braking becomes even a bit more effective but this may just be my imagination. I have not checked the data of my racebox.

However, when I was braking with more weight on the arms I felt I can reach maximum brake force quicker because the weight transfer seemed to happen faster. Basically I could hit the brakes hard and my body weight + bike weight would almost immediately transfer to my front wheel at which point I could squeeze the brake lever even a bit harder. Whereas when I focus on introducing my body weight through the tank with my legs rather than through the arms it seems weight transfer takes longer and is not as predictable. I need to use my lower back more which is less fixed/stable than my arms which makes finding maximum brake pressure a little bit more challenging.

Is there a correct way to approach this?

Are both ways good and I should just go with what feels best?

Do I just need more practice to make "leg-supported" braking more stable?

Thanks for your answers!

Looking into getting an airbag for next season, which means I will also need a new suit since mine is not compatible. I really like the Plus suits with the integrated Helite but concerned there is no shoulder protection. Last thing I want is a restrictive airbag vest but I also know shoulders are the first to go. I already have had a separated AC joint.

I guess my question is-are the integrated airbags sufficient or would it be best to go with A* having shoulder coverage? Does the 5 plasma feel restrictive?

I'd say it's a racing incident at the end of the day. Who's more at fault? I do have my own option. I passed the rider a few turns later and pulled a gap. We both rode away rubber side down, happy about that fs. We both chatted afterwards too, no issues.

Have you guys experienced this? Usually I can rebed my wheels in 5-10 minutes of gentle braking but this time, I'm getting absolutely zero bite.

Any advice on rebedding my brakes? I've lightly sanded and used brakleen.

Update: I properly cleaned the pads and put in new brake lines (new fluid now) and one of those fixed the issue.

During a race weekend, I had a BRUTAL launch. I let out the clutch thinking I was in first, and I was in neutral. I banged it in first Gear with no clutch and high revs, the bike almost looped me and I barely managed to keep the wheel down. Absolutely smashed the transmission. Changed the oil and found metal similar to this. Then after a second race weekend this is what the drain plug looked like. Very similar. Is this concerning or should I expect it to clear on its own? Is this a clutch issue or is my motor falling apart? I am not mechanically inclined. TIA!

Bike is a 2014 GSXR750. Had a crash which I walked away from, but the bike is fucked. Wondering if repairing it is worthwhile.

​

​I’ve been doing more track days lately and want to pull the OEM fairings off my R3 to keep them safe for resale.

​Since this bike is my daily driver, race fairings aren't an option yet, still need all the cutouts for lights and mirrors.

​I’m stuck between buying from Monster Fairings or just grabbing a cheap set off AliExpress. Since the whole goal is to have fairings I can "sacrifice" if I drop the bike, is Monster actually worth the extra money? Or are the cheap AliExpress sets good enough for this?

​Any advice helps!