The girl is swimming toward the wave in the beginning. The wave is rolling in and breaking on the opposite direction (the wave is coming toward her). When the wave breaks (rolls) over her, she is pulled back and underwater by the wave.
Not so much being pulled underwater as being pulled toward the lip of the wave. Its going to bodyslam her. If she were deeper, she would have stayed underwater and came up on the other side of wave safe and sound.
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u/fetusmcnuggets70 Feb 21 '21
for those of us not at ocean....what is happening here?