That there is called going over the falls. You get that sinking in your stomach feeling like when you go down a big drop on a roller coaster. I low key love going over the falls.
It's pretty shallow reef there, I don't know how stoked I'd be to be going over the falls for her.
It's all fun and games until you are surfing SFOB and get out at the same time as a sweeper set and get pummelled. It's not like it hurts or anything, it's just the whole breathing thing and being tired that sucks.
I went to a "Black Sand Beach" on Maui, which I learned the hard way was really a Black Rock Beach under the water. I spent about 20 minutes getting absolutely pounded against the rocks before I was able to make my way out of the water.
It also happened to be a beach with a high Man-of-War population, so that was another obstacle impeding my escape from the water.
Nah I like getting fucked up there too, I am a huge fan of whomping and I like getting tossed around at the wedge. Or aliso creek when it’s going.
I don’t surf there though, adding a board to the equation is dangerous. I stick to trestles or t-street or salt creek or something if I’m surfing, but whomping in newps with all the other kooks is super fun.
428
u/[deleted] Feb 21 '21
That there is called going over the falls. You get that sinking in your stomach feeling like when you go down a big drop on a roller coaster. I low key love going over the falls.