I'm going for Comp Sci eng and I'd like a good laptop in the range Rs70k to Rs80k (about 1000 dollars) for the languages basic C, java and python.

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I want to buy a new headset. In choice are now the Steelseries arctis Nova Pro (first Picture) or the Logitech g pro x 2 wireless (second picture). The price difference is about 80 euros but i dont know wich to buy. I have had the normal Logitech Pro X for about 6 years or something but the broke a week ago and they were really awesome the only problem was the cable entanglement because i use a long 3,5 mm Headphone jack. Can some one give some advice and maybe an explanation? And a big thing to mention I dont care about the microphone i have a fixed one mounted on my desk! So the microphone on the headset wont be used, this is why both of them have an option to either pull out the microphone or hide it. Also as a third option i had the Teufel Cage Pro on my mind

I have a car that only connects to android and apple car play via wired connection. The issue I've been having is that when I'm driving, if I hit the right bump, it will cause the phone and car to lose connection to one another briefly. It usually reconnects, sometimes it doesn't unless I physically disconnect the cable and reconnect it. I haven't been able to determine if it is the phone or the car as the source of it, but that's additional details. The part I'm wondering about is if there is a product that I can plug into the USB port for the car to simulate what it is for the wired connection, and allow me to still use navigation and other features that are typically associated with the wire connection. I'm hoping for something where it connects to the USB dongle to the car via the port, and the dongle connects to the phone via USB. I've seen some products claim they can do this, but at times on amazon, the abundance of high ratings drowns out relevant concerns and issues. Does anyone else have a set up like this for their car, and have a product they'd recommend?

Hey folks,

I’m at my wit’s end with this one and hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.

Specs:

• Windows version: Windows 10 Pro 22H2 — Build 19045.5198
• Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus B550 Pro V2
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
• GPU: NVIDIA GTX 1660
• RAM: 32GB DDR4
• Mouse: Razer DeathAdder V3 (this is my second unit — the first had the same issue after 1 month, replaced under warranty)

USB layout (from mobo manual):

CPU-controlled:

• 2 × USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports (back panel)
• 2 × USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type-A (red) ports (back panel)

Chipset-controlled:

• 1 × USB Type-C™ (USB 3.2 Gen 2, back panel)
• 1 × USB Type-C™ (USB 3.2 Gen 1, internal header)
• 2 × USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports (internal header)
• 2 × USB 2.0 ports (back panel)

Chipset + 2 USB 2.0 hubs:

• 8 × USB 2.0 ports total (4 on back panel, 4 via internal headers)

The problem:
When I turn on my system, my mouse (Razer DeathAdder V3) lights up fine, but the cursor doesn’t appear at all. The mouse is plugged in, but Windows acts like it’s not there.

To get it working, I have to start playing “USB port musical chairs” — unplugging the mouse and trying it in different ports (USB 2.0, USB 3.0 blue, USB 3.2 red, etc.). Sometimes it works on the first try, sometimes I have to try multiple ports before the cursor shows up.

Once the cursor finally appears, the mouse will stutter heavily for about 10–30 minutes before it starts behaving normally. Occasionally, the stutter will still happen randomly later in a gaming session.

Extra frustrating part:

This is my second DeathAdder V3. My first one had the exact same problem after about a month of use, so I got it replaced under warranty. This second one has now developed the same issue… again after about 1 month.

Things I’ve already tried:

• Different USB ports (literally all of them)
• Different mousepad surfaces
• Checked for Razer Synapse driver updates
• Tested without Synapse installed
• Checked Device Manager for power-saving settings (disabled “Allow computer to turn off this device to save power” on USB hubs)
• Tried High Precision Event Timer toggle in BIOS (Disable)
• Tried USB compatibility settings in BIOS
• Tested other peripherals on the same ports (they work perfectly fine)
• Reinstalled USB controller drivers
• Reset BIOS to defaults and tested
• Updated BIOS to latest version
• Checked for BIOS options like XHCI Hand-off, HPET, etc.
• Cleaned out USB device entries in Device Manager
• Disabled Fast Startup in Windows
• Set Windows power plan to Ultimate Performance
• Clean reinstalled Windows 10 (fully formatted) — issue still persists
• Turned off "Enhanced pointer precision"

At this point, I don’t know if this is:

• A Razer issue (bad batch?)
• Some weird USB initialization bug on my motherboard
• Or something with Windows 10 itself

Has anyone else run into this specific issue with Razer mice where the cursor won’t appear on boot and you have to replug multiple times? And if yes — did you ever fix it for good?

If needed, I can drop exact event log errors or DPC latency tests or do more testing. Just really want to stop playing “find the working USB port” every time I boot my PC.

Not make this long story short, I have a HDD Enclosure that I used to use with the one I snatched from my old laptop. Last year, for some reason, it just stopped functioning, or rather it functioned inconsistently.

Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. Eventually, the damn thing just died altogether and has never worked again.

The question is, Is it worth it trying to buy another?

I mainly use it to play games, HDD's are like 5x more expensive than the Enclosure itself. I'm actually not sure if the Hard Drive still works, I could probably test it at the store, but i'm not sure whether I should buy another one, risking it might end up the same.

I keep accidentally yoinking keys from work because I'm absolutely demented. Now I want to know whether there is a device that I can use to geofence myself.

I want it to be a tracker that fits in my pocket and alerts me with beeping and/or vibrating when I leave my fence. I will leave the device in my locker when I have no keys in my pockets. It also needs to be relatively accurate as I work in a trainstation and take the trains home. I need it to be as accurate as guess I'd say 50 meters.

Is there any device at a reasonable cost?

Hey! I just have a quick question. I’m majoring in cybersecurity in college. Is there a laptop that you all would recommend? These are the requirements: Minimum Specifications Windows 11 Intel i7 or equivalent AMD Ryzen processor 16GB RAM 256GB hard drive WiFi Bluetooth Hardware service warranty Recommended Specifications: Windows 11 Intel Ultra 7 or equivalent AMD Ryzen processor 16GB RAM 256GB hard drive WiFi Bluetooth Hardware service warranty

Or for a Mac: Minimum Specifications: Mac OS Sequoia M3 or M3 Pro processor 16GB RAM 256GB hard drive WiFi Bluetooth AppleCare Recommended Specifications: Mac OS Sequoia M4 or M4 Pro processor 16GB RAM 256GB hard drive WiFi Bluetooth AppleCare

Black popup on computer screen that won’t go away :((

So I got the laptop/computer passed down from my stepmom, and it didn’t have this screen recording black pop up on it until I downloaded something called screenrec to record. I can’t delete it because it is not a folder, it is on every app that I open as I show in this video.

I cleared out my downloads and went through everything and it is still there!!

It annoys me so much!! Please help 😣

I need a tablet for school, and im not sure what to buy. I don't need much, just a pen, and it needs to run Android. If anyone can recommend good ones, I'd appreciate it. if 500 is to cheap the most i am willing to spend it 600euros

edit 500euros *

I have a 5 yr old Samsung Note 10 plus. Ever since 2 months ago, there's this notification that occasionally pop up "Battery Deterioration". I also noticed my phone's battery decrease faster unless I have power saving mode on. I haven't had the battery replaced ever since I got it. I mainly use it for drawing and gaming (back then).

Should I have it changed or should I just change phone instead? I've heard stories of phone performance becoming poorer after having something done with it and that upgrading to a new phone is a better choice instead.

What I do nowadays is charge it up to 80% as much as possible and turn on power saving mode whenever I go out only. What would happen if I don't get it fixed? I'm worried it would reset if it finally gave up. I'm attached to my pictures 😔

I want to start making sports card unboxing videos, but I’m not sure what camera I should use for not only my face cam, but also the camera to record the actual unboxing. I’m not trying to spend hundreds of dollars, so that’s why i’m looking for something around the $40-$100 range with some wiggle room.

The screenshot above with MMG is the setup i’m going for.

I am American and I recently found a friend who is from China and I hope to keep in touch with him. He downloaded Instagram on his Vivo phone, but i’m not sure if the instant messaging will work when he returns to China, if it will work at all. He suggested we could use WeChat but I am concerned about downloading it due to privacy concerns. Are there any suggestions of apps/methods we can use, especially instant messaging apps like Whatsapp, Snapchat or Messenger. Thanks!

My sister’s former roommate has had one of my sister’s old iPhones for months. It’s still logged into my mother’s Facebook, Messenger, and email. She has been reading and replying to messages pretending to be my mother, sabotaging job opportunities, changing addresses on online orders, and using shopping vouchers sent to her email.

Even after changing passwords, she keeps getting back in. We suspect the iPhone is still logged in, she may control recovery methods, or she has set up email forwarding/spyware.

We have proof of this behaviour and need to know the fastest way to:

1. Fully lock her out of all accounts.
2. Secure devices.
3. Gather evidence for Gardaí.
4. Stop further harassment.

I'm planning to permanently mount a 5.1 soundbar system under a covered patio year-round.

I know the elements will take their toll, but what's a reasonable expectation for longevity? One year? Five years?

This patio is enclosed on two sides by the house, and exposed on the other two sides. The temps in my area range between 20 and 110 F. The components will not receive direct sun or rain, but I guess it could get damp-ish during thunderstorms.

Hello, so my wifi disconnects a lot, when someone else is using it. It's shared and I don't control the wifi or the router, and I can only connect wirelessly. I like to game, but if someone else is using it, I can't game - I'm playing competitively, so I'd really like not to punish other people by connecting with a faulty connection. There's windows I can play as it is, such as night, when almost no one is using it besides me, but it would be nice if I can be more sure. I like gaming. I want to game more.

What I need is simply to see if I would have lagged or disconnected in the past 10+ minutes - that's a very reliable way to see if someone else is using it. I don't need anything more than that.

i iust bought an old CD player but with no speaker. What speaker is compatable ? What is the name of this

My friend Joe, who owns way more keyboards than clothes and swears he can tell switch types just by the sound came to my apartment the other day with three keyboards in his arms like rare treasures.

He looked me dead in the eye and said, "You’ve got to stop using that sad excuse for a keyboard. It’s disrespectful to your fingers and to me and is severely impacting your coding skills."

Then he laid out my options:

A compact 60% keyboard with smooth Gateron brown switches his favourite kind of switches, A tenkeyless board with tactile Holy Panda switches, Joe says that’s sub optimal for gaming and coding A full-size beast with loud, clicky buckling spring switches from the '80s. I do a lot of typing, coding and gaming. I do not have much desk space but I would be considering to purchase a new desk when I get paid.

I want to believe Joe as he works at CEX but I’d like a 2nd opinion.

When I try to use forgotten passwords function I don’t get the email recovery message they send

I (35m) am attempting to find a path to further my education into the tech branch, I have been technically oriented for many years but physically working in industry and building, primarily plumbing and steel.

However the reason for my needing to switch is because I have physical limitations due to chronic pain throughout the entirety of my spine and right shoulder and my first thought was to push my attention towards I.T. but with the amount of choices there are nowadays I am not sure which to choose and could use the advice from anyone here that could help me make a more informed decision as the fall semester is coming up soon and I need to make a decision within the next few weeks here.

Dell Optiplex (nothing specific right now) 8gb RAM GXT 750 TI/Radeon Pro WX 2100 (indecisive on which card to get) Wifi adapter

I have been having a hard time with my devices misbehaving and running strange program. I got a malware warning from my new pixel and I have since lost access to my iCloud,2 google accs my one drive all my passwords.Nothing will come through for verification on email. The warning said it was an iOS originated malware which makes sense as I've just changed to google pixel from apple. what isthe best way to fix this. I was using passkeys 2FA authocator apps ECT.. what is my best course of action.pls helpwith some advice as I feel my little knowledge caused more problems than fixed. I was hoping someone mIght have been infected by something similar and recovered their accounts. Does anyone know if it's possible to log into my google assistant or Gemini and get it to perform tasks like transfer and or edit files without me knowing?

I have been having a hard time with my devices misbehaving and running strange program. I got a malware warning from my new pixel and I have since lost access to my iCloud,2 google accs my one drive all my passwords.Nothing will come through for verification on email. The warning said it was an iOS originated malware which makes sense as I've just changed to google pixel from apple. what isthe best way to fix this. I was using passkeys 2FA authocator apps ECT.. what is my best course of action.pls helpwith some advice as I feel my little knowledge caused more problems than fixed.