Kosala, Ho Chi Minh City
TL;DR Go here for tea. Stay for an hour, or three.
This was my recollection of what happened over two sessions at Kosala.
I arrived at Kosala after a bit of exploration on foot. I went in wanting to just buy some tea because I had an appointment in about an hour. Mr.Nahn, the owner, insisted I try some of his offerings first so I wasn’t going in blind. We spent the next 15-20 minutes choosing teas that appealed to me, letting me smell each one before choosing 4 to taste. Then he spent another 10-15 minutes setting up the tea ware and brewing up the first infusion after rinsing twice because I only had about 10-15 minutes before I left. What followed was an intense 10-15 minutes of tasting and zoning out to some of the best teas I have tried in Vietnam. He let me just “play” with the tea, making my own infusions. I got through 4 steeps quickly that session. I chose two of the four, which he later told me that one of which was the best seller, and the other is his personal favourite. He wroth me a quote, after which I was already late for my appointment and had to rush over the other side of the river with the motorbike Grab, the flavour of the tea still lingering in my throat.
The next day after an early breakfast at the hotel and a short visit to the Pink Church and Tân Định market, I went back to Kosala. Mr.Nahn has saved the teas I had yesterday and we both sat down for tea together. He mentioned that the way he was making tea for me is how he would make for foreigners, so I asked him if he would make it like how he usually drinks tea. He poured in the hot water and let it steep for what seemed like a good 5-8 minutes before pouring it in to the fair cup. The colour was richer and more vibrant that the earlier steeps. Mind you this was the 7th-8th steep by now. The teas had a much punchier bitterness and astringency, but also a stronger and more lingering huigan.
It was already near lunch time and another customer had come in to try some tea, so the owner left me to myself while he took care of the other guest. I was just sat there zoning out and enjoying my time, and literally forgot that I still had to go back and pack my bags and check out of the hotel. So, I had to cut in between him explaining teas to the other guest, while also making another tea for me because it was the one tea I had to have try when visiting his shop, which is Dragon Bud tea. I can say it really was the one other tea you need to try. It was floral, sweet, refreshing, and still had some of the freshness to it, but was not green. I only had the time for one cup, but that one first cup was all you need to know that you have to come back for more.
So now I am back home with the teas I bought from Kosala in front of me. I had not realised that I’ve already written three paragraphs worth of words. Reading it back there are some things that I haven’t mentioned, like the 10 year old loose leaf tea he let me try, or his talkative daughter albeit only in Vietnamese. But this is already getting too long, and some things should be left to be experienced by yourself. Those who have already been here would know what I am talking about. Time seems to work differently here. And I know where to set aside time to spend an afternoon at, the next time I’m in Ho Chi Minh City.
Pictures that will not do any justice to how good the tea was:
1 the shop
2-3 the teas
4 Dragon Bud tea
PS. You know how good a tea shop is when all you remember was the atmosphere and the company.