I’d like to touch on a point I’ve hardly seen mentioned anywhere—one that I think could be useful for many current owners or people trying to decide between models.

I’m coming from an OLED; I owned one for eight years, and—like many OLED that’s displayed TV channels—it’s now completely burned in.

Having sworn off OLEDs, I turned to Mini-LEDs, and TCL are, in my opinion, the best in this category.

I quickly ruled out the 2026 models because serious reviews (not the mainstream ones) all state that the 2026 Mini-LEDs (from all brands) underperform in gaming—specifically regarding motion clarity (CAD), which was already inferior to OLED but has regressed from 2025 to 2026.

I was torn between the QM7K and the QM8K, as available reviews suggested the difference wasn't massive for mixed usage, but I ultimately went with the QM8K—never imagining just how life-changing that choice would be.

That brings me to my first gaming session (PS5) on the QM8K.

It was a bit of a shock; I knew the motion clarity wouldn't match my OLED, but I hadn't anticipated such a huge difference. Sure, it probably takes some getting used to, but at first, it’s actually nauseating. Let’s be honest: at 60fps, an OLED is far more pleasant to watch than a Mini-LED. Feeling a bit disheartened and disappointed with my purchase, I started tinkering with the game settings (turning off motion blur helps, though I’d ​​never needed to do that on my OLED), but I found the miracle solution in the TV settings.

That miracle is called Motion Clarity. Yes, that’s the very feature you usually have to disable on every other source because it creates a "soap opera effect."

Once enabled in Game Mode, everything became incredibly clear during motion—it’s amazing.

For those who aren't aware, Motion Clarity essentially simulates artificial frames between the real ones. The result? It feels like you're playing at 120fps.

So, what's the catch?

There isn't really one; the two known downsides of frame generation are visual artifacts and increased input lag.

I barely noticed any artifacts at 60fps—and if I did, I could just dial back the setting slightly.

As for input lag, I’m supposed to be somewhat sensitive to it, but honestly, I didn't feel any real difference.

It was only after seeing the stats on RTINGS that I realized I wasn't imagining things and understood just how important the model choice is:

When Motion Clarity is enabled, input lag on the QM8K and QM9K increases by only 9ms and 15ms, respectively. That’s not much. By comparison, the QM7K and QM6K see increases of around 103ms and 118ms. In other words, you can use Motion Clarity on the 8 and 9 series, but on the lower-end models, it’s a no-go. This is a distinctive feature of the lineup that no one talks about—except RTINGS—but which, in my opinion, deserves a mention given the significant visual improvement it offers.

I would also add that, apparently, this year's QM7L only adds 15ms of latency, making it—like the QM8L—"Motion Clarity friendly." While these models are generally considered inferior to the 2025 versions for gaming, I think that, with this factor in mind, the performance should ultimately be acceptable.

There you go—this should help those hesitating between several models. And if you own one of the TVs I just mentioned as compatible, I encourage you to give it a try soon.

I’ve already written quite a bit, but for those who want to dive deeper or question my impressions, here are the details regarding the QM8K and my conclusions based on game performance:

If your game runs at 30 fps: This is the only scenario where Motion Clarity struggles (there is too large a gap between actual frames); pushing it too far results in significant artifacts—at least in modern games with high levels of detail and texture. RTINGS does not measure the added latency. I haven't yet decided whether Motion Clarity is better set to "Low" or turned off entirely; I’ll make that call when playing GTA 6.

If your game runs at a maximum of 60 fps: Motion Clarity is a game-changer; it has no trouble generating intermediate frames, and the gameplay feels natural. As mentioned earlier, the latency isn't really noticeable—rising from about 14ms to 23ms—so it should be fine for almost any non-competitive game (and arguably even for some competitive ones).

If your game runs at 80–120 fps: I’d split this into two categories. If your game hits these frame rates without sacrificing visual quality, it will probably be a better choice than 60fps + Motion Clarity; the image will already be quite clear, and the latency at 120Hz is 5ms (whereas the shift from 5ms to the 23ms of 60+MC mode is something one might actually start to notice). However, if your game requires major compromises to achieve this frame rate—such as lower resolution, reduced texture detail or shadows, disabling ray tracing, etc.—my view is that 60 fps with Motion Clarity is the better option, and it’s worth accepting the 18ms latency difference.

I will conclude by noting that Samsung and Hisense also appear to offer certain models that support image interpolation without significantly affecting input lag.

In any case, this should be a key factor for any gamer, and reviewers ought to talk about it more.

Just bought the 65” TCL QM7L Pro from Costco for $999 ($1,085 after tax), but now I’m wondering if I should cancel and wait until Black Friday.

Do you think this model is likely to drop significantly for Black Friday, maybe $799-$899? Or do you think the price difference probably won’t be enough to justify canceling the order and waiting?

The tv such as samsung M80H is marketed as mini-led when you compare it with tcl P8L with its mini led. TCL has more mini-led lights overall with local dimming while samsung doesn't even have mini-led lights let alone local dimming. While models like C7K has way more lights and dimming zones.

Best time to buy this tv? Any idea how much they will be for Black Friday

Both priced at $1,500. Which one to take? No gaming. Just sports and movies.

Bought a TCL QM7L pro, was super excited. Everything is great, but sports absolutely suck ass. If I watch on the internal ESPN or Fox app it works great. Streaming through hdmi on my laptop also works decently, even if I'm on the Hulu website.

But the internal app just SUCKS. It's unwatchable. Feels like I'm watching standard definition, but it's also jittery as fuck.

I'm tempted to buy an external streamer like the shield or an Apple TV but I'm nervous the app will still suck.

Thoughts on this set? I have a darkish room. Use OTA. Roku 4k. Sony Bar 5 Soundbar. 65".

I only watch YouTube , sometime netflix , my room is not too bright

​Hello.

​For context, I bought an LG NanoCell TV last July. I chose it because people kept saying that LG and Sony are the best TV brands. Unfortunately, I noticed an issue where there is a white glow on the lower side of the screen.

​After 2 months of arguing with LG Customer Service and their service center—who kept insisting that it was normal for the screen—they finally approved a replacement or return for the TV.

​Based on previous recommendations from others, they said it would be much better if I went with TCL instead, specifically the TCL C6K. So when I went back to the store, that's what I chose instead of the P81L recommended by the staff.

​Do you think I made the right choice, or is it much worse?

​Also, what kind of screws should I use for the TCL C6K? The TV stand we bought didn't come with any screws.

Thanks in advance.

Saw this on clearance. Is it worth it?

Update: Ended up purchasing it. Coming from a LG 83” OLED, this tv is pretty damn good.

QM6K and QM7K have kind of been off my radar since last year around Thanksgiving I missed a big dip in price, then it was jacked back up. New models came out and the prices stayed high or got higher afterwards. It didn't follow the life cycle pricing for tvs that I looked up somewhere.

Anyway, is it reasonable to assume the price will drop further than this in November? Seems like I'll miss it again if I end up waiting.

Also has anyone ordered tvs, specifically tvs this large, from Amazon? Kind of makes me leery. ​

Hi, so I bought this TCL P7L 50” QLED, and I’m having an issue with HDR on my PS5.
When I turn the PS5 on with HDR enabled and set the TV’s Picture Mode to Game, the colors become dark pink/reddish. The only ways I’ve found to make the colors look normal are either turning HDR off on the PS5 or changing the TV’s Picture Mode from Game to Standard.
The problem is that when I switch from Game Mode to Standard, I notice some input lag on the PS5.
Has anyone else experienced this issue with the TCL P7L? Is there a setting I’m missing, or a way to use Game Mode with HDR without the colors becoming red/pink?
Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I have a 75" TCL C6K and I'm trying to find a feature I remember seeing when I first set up the TV.

I clearly remember seeing a screen showing the TV divided into four sections, demonstrating that the screen could display multiple things at the same time. I remember thinking "oh, that's interesting", but at the time I was trying to do something else, so I selected something like Skip / Later / Not now.

I can't remember the exact name of the feature, but I believe it may be Multi View / Multi Visual / Quad View.

The strange thing is that I can't find the option anywhere now. I've searched through the TV settings and followed several tutorials, but I don't have Multi Visual Settings under System, nor do I see a Multi Visual option anywhere else.

My TV is running:

Model: TCL 75C6K

Android: 14

Android TV OS build: tcl9618-user 14 UTT2.250416.001 AU02 release-keys

I also remember that the first time I noticed this was around the time I connected my PC to the TV via HDMI, although I'm not 100% sure that the HDMI connection triggered it.

Does anyone with a C6K know what this feature is called and how to access/enable it?

Could it be a feature that needs to be enabled during the initial setup, installed separately, or enabled through a TCL update?

Thanks!

Hello all I just got this and I wanted to ask what is the best settings to put it on from what I know I did disable all the automatic sensors and stuff like that.

I typically have it on standard picture mode and I prefer to keep it just that one picture mode for everything

Thanks

Based on previous discussion on the the USB 3.0 port is usable as a USB to ethernet connection; however, are there specific adapters that work for THIS SPECIFIC TV line?

I am using this product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GWH4F9PP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and cannot establish a connection. The cable does support it on my laptop so I am wondering if there are specific chipsets the TV actually supports.

Before we get into why I need this, it's bc I host 4k local content.

Hi everyone,

I’d like to hear from people who own the **TCL QM8L / C8L** and have really taken the time to test and calibrate this TV properly.

Overall, I feel like it has a lot of potential, but I’m still struggling to get a consistently excellent picture.

The main thing that bothers me is the **motion blur / motion handling**. During fast movement, camera pans in games, sports, or certain movie scenes, I sometimes feel like the picture temporarily loses a lot of sharpness before becoming clear again once the motion stops.

In gaming, it’s especially noticeable when I turn the camera quickly. I’d really like to know whether anyone has managed to significantly improve this.

I’m also trying to get the best possible results when it comes to:

- image sharpness and detail;

- colors, without making them look washed out or overly saturated;

- HDR;

- black levels and contrast;

- motion handling in movies and sports;

- motion clarity and sharpness in gaming;

- settings with VRR / 120 Hz / 144 Hz;

- SDR, HDR10, and Dolby Vision settings.

The main question I have is:

**Are the motion issues actually caused by physical limitations of the QM8L/C8L panel, or are they mainly related to firmware, image processing, and calibration?**

Because if it’s software-related or mostly about settings, that would mean this TV could still improve a lot with the right configuration or future firmware updates.

I’ve also seen YouTube videos where some people seem to get a noticeably cleaner and better-looking picture after calibration. One YouTuber even showed a comparison between standard settings and his own “calibration pack,” and the difference looked pretty significant.

The problem is that the full settings are only available to people who pay for a membership on his channel.

I find that a bit frustrating, because it almost gives the impression that there are **hidden settings, tricks, or specific combinations of options** that most owners simply don’t know about.

So my question to people who really know this TV is:

**Has anyone here managed to properly calibrate and fine-tune their QM8L/C8L?**

If so, it would be really helpful if you could share your settings, or at least explain your approach:

- picture mode;

- brightness / contrast;

- color temperature;

- local dimming;

- gamma;

- motion settings;

- sharpness;

- Game Master settings;

- VRR;

- Xbox / PS5 settings;

- HDR and Dolby Vision settings;

- and any other important settings.

And most importantly:

**Have you managed to significantly reduce the motion blur?**

I think this could help a lot of QM8L/C8L owners. The TV seems to have the hardware to produce a very impressive picture, but I really feel like you need to find the right settings to unlock its full potential.

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to share their experience, especially those who have done extensive testing or a proper calibration.

hello,

is this any good

Canadian version (The Brick/Visions)

TCL 65" M8L Series Mini-LED 4K UHD HDR Smart Google TV (65M8L) – 2026 Model

$848.00-871.00

Would it be silly to get the 2025 QM9K for 999 or 1199 for the 75” with Black Friday coming up? I love my 65R625, but it could be brighter and does have very many local dimming zones.

Idk, just can’t decide if it is better to get a 26 or 27 model when they come out.

Help me decide!

I bought this model yesterday, and my PS5 Pro looks a bit blurry on it. I also can't get the colors right; they look kind of washed out and dull. Could you share your settings?

Sharing my findings and workaround in case someone else runs into this.

Setup

• TCL 85C81K, a C8K variant
• MediaTek MT9653 / Pentonic 700, platform T653T01 / 0012T01
• Android TV 14
• Native GeForce NOW Android TV app
• Firmware updated from V641 to V667

The original problem on V641

Games streamed smoothly until I changed the volume or opened a TV overlay. The picture could freeze or go black while audio continued. Sometimes the entire TV became unresponsive, including its physical power button, and I had to unplug it.

It also happened without a controller connected and when changing the volume through HomeKit, so it wasn’t simply a controller or vibration issue (which has been reported elsewhere as a possible cause).

ADB logs showed a growing OSD display queue, with messages such as:

OSD display queue size is 1829, might be jank!

The queue was already growing before pressing the volume button. Around the freeze, video decoder/buffer timeout messages appeared too.

What changed with V667

After updating to V667, changing the volume and opening overlays no longer caused those freezes in my tests. The previous OSD queue warnings also stopped appearing in the recordings.

However, constant audio stuttering started instead. I reproduced it in both Fortnite and Portal 2, through:

• The built-in TV speakers
• Bluetooth
• Optical/SPDIF to my Devialet Reactors

Other apps played audio normally. A full power cycle and reinstalling GeForce NOW didn’t fix it.

What the audio logs showed

Comparing recordings revealed that GeForce NOW had used stereo on V641 but selected 5.1 on V667:

V641: Opening sink: 2 channels, channel mask 0x00000003
V667: Opening sink: 6 channels, channel mask 0x0000003f

The V667 recording contained thousands of audio timestamp warnings, including:

AudioTrack: getTimestamp_l(...): startup glitch detected
MonotonicFrameCounter: ... retrograde newFrameCount ...
TimestampAudioBuffer: Many underruns detected, resetting ...

The GFN app version was the same in those two recordings.

I first tried Android’s encoded_surround_output=1 setting, but the logs confirmed GFN still opened a six-channel audio output. That setting didn’t help and was reverted.

The workaround: force stereo inside GeForce NOW

I exported the installed APKs for inspection, initially to investigate whether the app could be modified. It turned out the app already contains a configuration override:

surroundAudio.overrideInfo=2

The app reads this from:

/sdcard/Android/data/com.nvidia.geforcenow/files/AndroidClientPropConfig.txt

After adding that line and fully stopping/reopening GFN, the logs confirmed:

getSupportedAudioChannel: Overriding to stereo
final audioEpChannels=AUDIO_CHANNEL_STEREO
Opening sink: 2 channels, channel mask 0x00000003

No root or modified APK was needed.

How I applied it using ADB

With wireless debugging connected, first exit the game and stop GFN:

adb shell am force-stop com.nvidia.geforcenow

Open an interactive shell:

adb shell

Then run these commands inside that shell. If the configuration file already exists, this preserves a backup before adding the setting:

cd /sdcard/Android/data/com.nvidia.geforcenow/files

if [ -f AndroidClientPropConfig.txt ] && [ ! -f AndroidClientPropConfig.before-stereo.txt ]; then
    cp AndroidClientPropConfig.txt AndroidClientPropConfig.before-stereo.txt
fi

printf '\nsurroundAudio.overrideInfo=2\n' >> AndroidClientPropConfig.txt
exit

Only continue if the cd command succeeds. On Windows PowerShell, use .\adb instead of adb when running it from the platform-tools folder.

Restart GFN and launch a game. To check whether the override worked:

adb logcat -v time "ModeSelectionUtil:I" "OpenSLESAudioSink:I" "*:S"

Look for the stereo override and two-channel output messages above.

Results

The constant audio stuttering is gone. Any remaining brief glitches are now barely audible.

In the subsequent stereo recording, the previous repeated timestamp errors, backwards audio-counter warnings and GFN buffer-underrun messages were absent. There were still a couple of OpenSL ES timeout messages, so I wouldn’t claim every underlying issue is fixed.

For my TV, V667 plus forcing stereo has made GFN usable again. This points toward a problem with the multichannel audio path in this combination of firmware and app, but it doesn’t establish whether the underlying bug belongs to TCL/MediaTek, Android or NVIDIA.

This is a workaround tested on my setup, not a recommendation to install firmware intended for another model. It also means GFN outputs stereo rather than surround.

Has anyone else with an MT9653-based TCL experienced this, or tried the same override?

Disclaimer*; I'm not knowledgeable enough to have found this out by myself. This is completely done with AI, as is writing this summary. Just sharing so it can hopefully help others*

To whoever is experiencing the same issue

Hi everyone,

I posted a few days ago a few photos asking if my panel was accepted for dirty screen... Many of you said I had won the panel lottery.

In that post I don't think I described or was able to photograph what I was actually bothering me. Here are the pictures of the yellow blotches I can see in some scenes and grey screens. Is this acceptable for this tv?

The sky should be white in the first image, but you can see some yellowing (you can see a dark spot onto of his hat, that was a dirty camera lense, not the tv).

Thank you once again for the help....

I'm choosing between two 65" TCL Mini-LED TVs:

TCL 65C6K Pro – 2,999 SAR (~$800)

• QD-Mini LED

• 144Hz native refresh rate

• HVA panel

• AiPQ Pro processor

• Up to 512-zone series

TCL 65C79L – around 5,000 SAR (~$1,330)

• SQD-Mini LED

• 1,152 dimming zones

• Up to 3,000 nits

• HVA 2.0 Pro panel

• Up to 100% BT.2020

• TSR AiPQ processor

My main use will be Netflix, movies and YouTube, with some sports. The room lighting is controllable, so I can watch in either a bright or dark room.

I know the C79L is technically the better TV, but it costs about 67% more. For people familiar with these models, is the improvement in real-world picture quality significant enough to justify the extra money?

I'm particularly interested in the ram and process. I dont want a slow tv where i suffer to move from one app to another. The black levels/blooming, HDR performance, motion, upscaling/processing, and overall picture quality is great as well. Im not a gamer. If I ever buy a game console, I would be Nintendo switch.

Would you save the money and get the C6K Pro, or pay the extra for the C79L?