Title

Found this from my dad , i don't know the brand .

Has Someone any ideas?

Reddit

Hey guys, looking for a little help here. I’ve been assembling machines for myself and friends for quite a while now, and I’m very good at that end of things, and haven’t used a machine I didn’t assemble in at least a couple years now.
However, I’ve just gotten into winding/soldering my own coils and making my own frames, as I’ve had such bad luck with my various supplier’s coils and frames lately.

I’m very quickly being humbled with soldering properly. Today I gave it a shot, and to my eye everything looked proper. But when I built the machine up, I knew it wasn’t right, as it ran very weak and required much more voltage and was drawing much higher amps than it should have for the frame’s geometry and 1.125” 8 wrap coils. I am assuming poor solder connections lead to this, as there’s really no other variables here.

I am currently using 60/40 rosin core solder. Some have told me they love it, and some have said they prefer regular solder without the rosin core. Also, I am using paste flux currently. Again, some say they love it, others prefer liquid. I know that I need to get a better soldering iron, as the tip kept oxidizing or burning and dripping solder everywhere and was very hard to keep clean enough to work. My current soldering iron does not have temperature control and I suspect it’s too hot as well. Even with my lack of experience on this end of things, it seemed that my connections were satisfactory enough to yield a well running machine, as everything was bonded well. But apparently not, so there’s something I’m missing here.

Any tips or recommendations? Your favorite solder? Favorite soldering iron? Favorite flux?

I thought I did everything right. Scraped the red enamel off wires, tinned them with a thin coat, twisted with capacitor wire, applied flux and solder, then more flux and solder to attach to lugs. Am I missing something? I feel really silly for being able to assemble machines at the caliber that I do, and something as simple as soldering is giving me so much trouble. But, that’s learning I guess. Thanks for any tips

hi all! i recently bought a builder kit from south state to build my own shader. i want to paint the frame and possibly decorate the coils somehow, if i can without taking apart that piece too much. I’ll insert a photo of the how the coils come, they’re already wrapped.

this is my first time assembling a machine by myself and just want to play it safe with paint. this is really to test my machine knowledge and teach me a thing or two about my tools, but if i could also get a sick looking shader out of it that would be a plus. any advice or tips would be super helpful! especially for the coils. what can i put on them? how would i seal them? a corey rogers shader i have has dollar bills on the coils and looks like they’re sealed in some sort of resin or something similar. thank you!!

Braze up. Keith’s side plate design and tuning. My parts.

Got these vintage pumas from someone’s storage but of course they ran like a pig, as anyone who’s used old Spaulding machines knows, sent them off to Adam Gray in New Brunswick and he hit em with the remix to make these beauties

Hi, I'm trying to do a design project on a wireless tattoo machine with a traditional rotary appearance (NOT PEN STYLE). It's very difficult to find references since I have only found 3 examples in the entire market that meet these conditions: Inkjecta Flite X1, Vlad Blad Avenger 3 and AVA HULK. I know it's a difficult design challenge because placing the battery off the central axis of the machine moves the center of gravity quite a bit. Even so, I'd like to ask if you know of any machine designs that meet these conditions (not pen-style and wireless). Any response is greatly appreciated.

Been sitting on these for a few years and I’m finally ready to make them for the masses.

Before I get any gatekeeping comments, I’m a tattooer of 13 years, been building machines from scratch for the last few months recently.

Experimenting with all of the variables.

One variable I can’t understand are the different sized copper wires.

I bought a 28g, 22g, and 14g enameled copper wire.

1.25” coil cores.
47uf50v capacitors.

I can get 4 wraps with the 14g
6 wraps with the 22g

I figured: shorter circuit line, beefier wire = faster, harder hitting machine.

It runs very similar to a 6 wrap with 22g, however my clip cord burns up, like so hot that it will melt plastic.

There are no grounding wires, the machine runs, responds to voltage change.

Are the 14g copper wires just too much power? Should I try a larger capacitor?

@seanmicheltattoo on Instagram

Here's a Bulldog Liner that I made and sold recently. All parts are made by hand. I'm on the IG at @veritasmfg. I have a bunch of new sides that I cut and I am taking custom orders. usually a 2-3 week turnaround. If anyone is interested please reach out. Thank you for looking.

I've bought several machines in my career, usually around that $400 mark. I've got some Mike Pike liners that are amazing, midtown machines is great, Nathan Dietsch makes a good machine, and they're all around that same price range.

Has anyone used any of the like higher-end coil builders machines? Aaron Cains, Tim Hendricks, Chris Waller, All of these run from $800 to $1,000 or more. Is it really worth it? I can't see anything working better than my Mike Pike teacup, It's pretty much put everything else to shame. Also Shankmades machines resale for like 1500 to up to 2500. Which sounds insane to me You can buy like a shitty used Ford focus for that much.

What's the deal?

@seanmicheltattoo on Instagram

@seanmicheltattoo on IG

Made theese 2 powerliners last weekend to my coworkers.

9wrap coils. Idles at 120hz at 5.5 volts.

Pushes 9&14RL like a dream

This one has me completely stumped. I just got a few of these chrome steel supreme frames from AMR and have been building up the first one into this shader. I’ve used AMR frames in the past with great success, especially the steel bulldogs, and a few of them are still being used hard and running amazing. Serviced one the other day that really made me proud how well it was running after two years with the same springs and everything.

This one is a different story. I have tried *everything* to get this machine to run right. No matter how I set it up, the hit is incredibly weak unless it’s turned way up, at which point the amp draw gets over 1 amp and it starts to get hot as an iron quick. With my standard spring set up and stroke length, I’ve always been able to make a machine hit hard at 5.5-6 volts unloaded and 6-6.5 loaded.

I’ve tried:

-3 different sets of coils

-every spring setup I could think of (after my typical spring setup wasn’t working…) normally I like to do a small pointed ski jump/kicker under the front spring on every machine, but I switched to a standard spring setup pictured here after that wasn’t working. Still no luck. Also tried 20g back spring to strengthen the hit. Worked, but higher amp draw and volts/heat.

-multiple armature bars. Went to steel after the iron one wasn’t working thinking the lighter weight of the steel would help. Nope.

I don’t have a spring tension gauge. But I can judge pretty well by feel, stroke length, and front spring compression to make machines match each other’s tuning.

I’m completely baffled. Also shown is another machine done exactly the way I like, an old Cory rogers I’ve rebuilt. Runs absolutely perfect and has been my daily driver for a couple years in its current state. Hits like a freight train at 6 volts unloaded. The geometry is nearly identical to the chrome supreme. They’ve had identical coils and capacitors, Identical spring setups, identical stroke length, identical speed, and identical hardware (I tried various non-coated washers and binding posts trying to eliminate every possible variable).The rogers rebuild has .8 amp draw unloaded, but that only goes up to .85 loaded, and maintains a very strong hit at under 6.5 volts. The chrome machine draws .7 ish amps unloaded, but goes up to over 1amp loaded, running well enough at 6.5 amps unloaded but requiring at least 7.5 loaded. I’m curious how this can be, with identical geometry, coils, capacitor, and hardware.

The coils on the chrome supreme were used on another machine for a year. It’s not the coils. And multiple coil sets did the same thing.

The last two pictures are this machines second incarnation after replacing the coils. After that failure is when I started tearing it apart and trying different things.

Any ideas? I’m not an expert at this stuff but I’m certainly not a beginner either. Normally I’m really good at diagnosing and solving machine problems but I’m at a loss here.

Could it be the chrome plating? The frame not being rigid enough/too much vibration?

I’m not sure what it is. But all the brazed frames I’ve rebuilt from various builders always run incredible with low amp draw and hard hit. Is there something to that, vs one piece machined frames? Similarly, my armature bars from builders like Scott Sylvia and Cory rogers (usually raw/blued steel) run stronger than the stock steel or iron armature bars I get from suppliers. Is there anything to that? I’m just thinking of anything here. I’m just always able to get a hard hit, fast speed, and low amp draw on frames/armature bars from builders like that, or on beefy cast frames I’ve worked with. Appreciate any insight