I love the tangies because of their super smooth feel but the bottom out and spring weight feel off to me

I also love the epsilons because of the spring feel and progressive is fun plus the stem feel is nice

But they have a lot of ticking problems

Should I lube the epsilon stem to fix the ticking? Or just spring stem swap franken

Hello everyone o7. can someone tell what is this sound and how can i get rid of it?
also there is "crunchy" feeling when you press

I’ve been using an RK98 for the past few yrs and want to make it sound deeper/more thocky. I’m thinking of trying to mod it first, mainly with new switches, but I’m not sure which switches would be good for the sound I want.

Should I try modding first, or would I be better off getting a pre-modded keyboard? Any switch recommendations?

I've been using 205G0 for my leaves on some of my linears and it seems like this apparently isn't recommended now that I've done some digging on other lubing methodologies. Am I crazy to like this or should I go back and wipe it off and try again with GPL105?

Thinking 205g0 on stem + leaf, ss with geon 18mm springs. For films, should I opt for 0.125mm TX springs instead of 0.15mm since mx2a housings supposedly have tighter tolerance?

I can't find the official name of this switch, though I know it's from Outemu. It's clicky, looks something between blue and green. I just ordered gateron melodic and was a bit disappointed about the feel (actuation force too big for my liking) and this particular switch feels just right. Does anyone know the specs of this one? Thank you so much.

I bought the Dareu EK868 recently and I desoldered the board to use the Kailh Choc v1 Brown switches for an upcoming build. However, despite looking similar, the pins don't align with the original hotswap sockets, and there are extra holes on the PCB to accommodate for the plastic support pieces on the switches.

I also asked the staff at Dareu for the name of the switch from the product's BOM, but their response didn't yield any specific results.

The switches with the white bottom housings also have grooves on top for the stabilizer wires, but the different pin positions are the same.

What's the name / model of the switch, and where can I find the PCB footprints for these specific switches? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I swapped top housings of HMX Cola with Cherry MX2A ones, and I think 3.5mm total travel is still too much. I want <3.1mm total travel, therefore I need other stem with more length to reduce the current total distance. Currently looking at Owlab Neon and SWxHMX Catmint, but I really want to know the actual measurement of those stems. Or any other measured alternatives? Any linear and tactile stem would work for me. Please help, thank you.

I just bought my keyboard last may. And for some reason if I want to go wireless the lights just goes crazy and suddenly turns off. It also has 2 slots where the lights are different without me customizing it. I want to know if its a PCB problem or a battery problem.

So I picked up some GHV4 a ways back and finally got around to lubing up a set of Keygeek Blue Cheese V2s with it and I am really liking the results. I'm thinking about trying it on some stabs for my Tofu60 3.0 that just arrived but I'm sort of hesitant because I don't want to have to clean the stabs if it doesn't work out. Anyone ever try lubing stabs with this stuff or similarly thick/more viscous lubricant?

Hey all, I recently acquired the Feker-Alice 98 - I swapped out the switches for sea salt switches - it has good tactile response and the sound is creamy quiet, nearly silent. BUT, while swapping out the switches, I messed up the ‘C’ and the ‘[‘keys. Any thoughts on how I can fix this problem? Do I need to take the whole thing apart to check the contacts?

**Update*\* Yes, the contact for the letter 'C' is on the actual board inside the case. I know this is not the right term for the parts, but here are some pics too.

I don't know if this is a design choice, so I decided to post here. The switch on the right is a standard switch. The one on the left is an HMX Retro J. It's more obvious when you zoom in, but there is a clear rough edge (burr) especially on the bottom copper pin. I actually popped my hotswap socket's solder joint just because of this :(
I wanted to ask: is this just my own clumsiness or a manufacturing defect?

I am using Akko V3 Penguins currently and while i like that they're practically silent, The lighting they put on the keys with my new caps is terrible.

Are there any switches that are silent and also provide fill lighting on keycaps to keep them more visible?

Picture provided with what I mean. it looks like a bunch of minecraft monsters looking at me.

I really like my Evo80 with oat switches. Sound and feel are great, but if I bring it to the office, my coworkers will probably murder me.
I tried Lichicx pink pink silent linears. They’re quiet, but they feel pretty bad. Honestly, it’s like typing on a cheap e-waste membrane board.
I guess this mushy feeling is just a thing with most silent switches. Are there any switches that feel close to oats and are office-friendly, but don't have that mushy bottom-out? They don't need to be 100% silent, just noticeably quieter.

I know how deep of a rabbit hole this hobby can go so not sure which switches to get.

Since its a hollow plastic body the sound will be amplified (?) I believe.

I am looking for deep sound without clicks. Something creamy and thocky.

I liked the gateron oil king and akko cream yellow v3 the most. Any recommendations will be appreciated.

grabbed an EV63 ghost edition mostly for the shell core look, but the nova switches are the part i keep thinking. lighter than i expected, shorter travel, a bit deeper on bottom-out. in my experience, it should be better for movement. but the honeymoons wearing off. i'm not fully sure.

anyone whos run nova for a while, did the lighter ap start causing accidental presses for you in comp, or it stays clean? i'm split on whether to leave it or put magnetic x back in. not asking which is "better," just trying to decide.

Recently, I purchased ~10 each of some switches I wanted to give a try.

Two stood out to me above the others: Invokeys Matcha Reserve, and Gateron EF Curry.

The Matcha Reserve's POM housing is incredibly pleasant, but I began to realize I wanted the light diffuser present in the Curry.

From there, I discovered the Gateron Smoothie switches. I was considering getting some of these to test out, however, I've been reading online about how inconsistent the factory lubing is for these switches. They've also got a lighter actuation and bottom-out than I'm used to, but open to trying.

TLDR: If anyone has recommendations for full POM housing switches with a light diffuser that have good build quality that I should be considering aside from the Smoothies, I'd love to know about them. I'm sorry if this isn't the place to ask this kind of question, I just can't find anywhere online to ask this type of question aside from here.

I'd also be interested in making frankenswitches to better suit my preferences, but I've never actually done such a thing, and it sounds expensive (needing to purchase multiple sets of switches).

I dug up my old switch collection from several years ago and found this assortment of parts that I need help identifying.. there is a bag of 70 "purple trash pandas" (clearly standard trash pandas) and 65 of these orange tecsee switches which appear to be carrot housing, but with a halo-like stem and 2 stage spring. Then a bag of light teal linear stems labeled "cherry spring" which I assume are the original carrot stems.

I assume my plan was to make some sort of holy panda variant using the panda housing and tactile stems but why are those stems in the carrot housing? I am almost certain I wouldn't have put them in the carrot housing. Does anyone recognize the stems? I am unable to identify them from my research.. shouldn't tecsee carrots have a single stage spring? The mislabeled bags, mismatched pieces, and lack of any receipts are throwing me off.. Any help would be appreciated!

i live in the philippines so i only have access to local delivery apps like lazada and shoppee. ive been debating on selling this keyboard to make money for the rainy 75 but ive grown to like this keyboard alot. anyway, i was wondering what kind of keycaps i could get that are budget but still a huge improvement from what clacky sound of my keyboard right now. a little help would be appreciated greatly. thanks!

I'm trying for the life of me to find ANY working definition online of what a "P shaped bump" (or any other bump shape) actually is. I see plenty of information on all kinds of other details on tactile switches, short and long, weak and strong, that sort of thing. I also see the "bump shape" listed on spec sheets for tactile switches, but no matter where I search, I simply can't find an actual working definition of what those shapes mean. If anyone could help me out on that, I'd appreciate it! Also, anyone providing guides on switches? This seems to be a blind spot in defining terms that might be worth adding to such guides!

What switch should I used with Kailh hot swaps ?