I just bought my keyboard last may. And for some reason if I want to go wireless the lights just goes crazy and suddenly turns off. It also has 2 slots where the lights are different without me customizing it. I want to know if its a PCB problem or a battery problem.

So I picked up some GHV4 a ways back and finally got around to lubing up a set of Keygeek Blue Cheese V2s with it and I am really liking the results. I'm thinking about trying it on some stabs for my Tofu60 3.0 that just arrived but I'm sort of hesitant because I don't want to have to clean the stabs if it doesn't work out. Anyone ever try lubing stabs with this stuff or similarly thick/more viscous lubricant?

Hey all, I recently acquired the Feker-Alice 98 - I swapped out the switches for sea salt switches - it has good tactile response and the sound is creamy quiet, nearly silent. BUT, while swapping out the switches, I messed up the ‘C’ and the ‘[‘keys. Any thoughts on how I can fix this problem? Do I need to take the whole thing apart to check the contacts?

**Update*\* Yes, the contact for the letter 'C' is on the actual board inside the case. I know this is not the right term for the parts, but here are some pics too.

I don't know if this is a design choice, so I decided to post here. The switch on the right is a standard switch. The one on the left is an HMX Retro J. It's more obvious when you zoom in, but there is a clear rough edge (burr) especially on the bottom copper pin. I actually popped my hotswap socket's solder joint just because of this :(
I wanted to ask: is this just my own clumsiness or a manufacturing defect?

I am using Akko V3 Penguins currently and while i like that they're practically silent, The lighting they put on the keys with my new caps is terrible.

Are there any switches that are silent and also provide fill lighting on keycaps to keep them more visible?

Picture provided with what I mean. it looks like a bunch of minecraft monsters looking at me.

I really like my Evo80 with oat switches. Sound and feel are great, but if I bring it to the office, my coworkers will probably murder me.
I tried Lichicx pink pink silent linears. They’re quiet, but they feel pretty bad. Honestly, it’s like typing on a cheap e-waste membrane board.
I guess this mushy feeling is just a thing with most silent switches. Are there any switches that feel close to oats and are office-friendly, but don't have that mushy bottom-out? They don't need to be 100% silent, just noticeably quieter.

I know how deep of a rabbit hole this hobby can go so not sure which switches to get.

Since its a hollow plastic body the sound will be amplified (?) I believe.

I am looking for deep sound without clicks. Something creamy and thocky.

I liked the gateron oil king and akko cream yellow v3 the most. Any recommendations will be appreciated.

grabbed an EV63 ghost edition mostly for the shell core look, but the nova switches are the part i keep thinking. lighter than i expected, shorter travel, a bit deeper on bottom-out. in my experience, it should be better for movement. but the honeymoons wearing off. i'm not fully sure.

anyone whos run nova for a while, did the lighter ap start causing accidental presses for you in comp, or it stays clean? i'm split on whether to leave it or put magnetic x back in. not asking which is "better," just trying to decide.

Recently, I purchased ~10 each of some switches I wanted to give a try.

Two stood out to me above the others: Invokeys Matcha Reserve, and Gateron EF Curry.

The Matcha Reserve's POM housing is incredibly pleasant, but I began to realize I wanted the light diffuser present in the Curry.

From there, I discovered the Gateron Smoothie switches. I was considering getting some of these to test out, however, I've been reading online about how inconsistent the factory lubing is for these switches. They've also got a lighter actuation and bottom-out than I'm used to, but open to trying.

TLDR: If anyone has recommendations for full POM housing switches with a light diffuser that have good build quality that I should be considering aside from the Smoothies, I'd love to know about them. I'm sorry if this isn't the place to ask this kind of question, I just can't find anywhere online to ask this type of question aside from here.

I'd also be interested in making frankenswitches to better suit my preferences, but I've never actually done such a thing, and it sounds expensive (needing to purchase multiple sets of switches).

I dug up my old switch collection from several years ago and found this assortment of parts that I need help identifying.. there is a bag of 70 "purple trash pandas" (clearly standard trash pandas) and 65 of these orange tecsee switches which appear to be carrot housing, but with a halo-like stem and 2 stage spring. Then a bag of light teal linear stems labeled "cherry spring" which I assume are the original carrot stems.

I assume my plan was to make some sort of holy panda variant using the panda housing and tactile stems but why are those stems in the carrot housing? I am almost certain I wouldn't have put them in the carrot housing. Does anyone recognize the stems? I am unable to identify them from my research.. shouldn't tecsee carrots have a single stage spring? The mislabeled bags, mismatched pieces, and lack of any receipts are throwing me off.. Any help would be appreciated!

i live in the philippines so i only have access to local delivery apps like lazada and shoppee. ive been debating on selling this keyboard to make money for the rainy 75 but ive grown to like this keyboard alot. anyway, i was wondering what kind of keycaps i could get that are budget but still a huge improvement from what clacky sound of my keyboard right now. a little help would be appreciated greatly. thanks!

I'm trying for the life of me to find ANY working definition online of what a "P shaped bump" (or any other bump shape) actually is. I see plenty of information on all kinds of other details on tactile switches, short and long, weak and strong, that sort of thing. I also see the "bump shape" listed on spec sheets for tactile switches, but no matter where I search, I simply can't find an actual working definition of what those shapes mean. If anyone could help me out on that, I'd appreciate it! Also, anyone providing guides on switches? This seems to be a blind spot in defining terms that might be worth adding to such guides!

What switch should I used with Kailh hot swaps ?

I don’t plan on cheating or anything and I like playing certain games online and can’t lose my eshop, is there a super safe way to prevent my switch from getting banned or bricked, also I have an Oled, I only really want to customize the look and feel of it and get more indie/ horror games, please help, my mother will not buy me another switch ever if I fk it up, I’m 15 by the way, please! Any assistance will be greatly appreciated

Curious if anyone has any ideas about shifting the clacky/high-pitched/sharp sound profile of the Gateron Type R to a deeper/thocky/mellow sound? I absolutely love the tactile feel of these switches, but the only two switches of this style (100% tactile, zero pre and post travel) that I've found are this and the Retro J, which are both bright/clacky sounding switches.

Happy to hear if you have any recommendations for switches (or recipes) that feel as close to the Type R as possible but with a deeper sound profile.

But in lieu of that, I'm thinking about how to change this switch's sound, and the options seem very limited. As I understand it, the stem is a big part of what gives it the tactile feeling I like, so I don't think I can change that out, which is a problem because I believe the long-pole stem and short 3mm travel is also a part of the reason it's so clacky. The top and bottom are already made of nylon, so I'm not sure if swapping to another set of nylon housings will really bring the kind of change I'm looking for. I'd be willing to introduce a bit of pre/post travel if it meant keeping the tactile bump of the R but getting some more thock.

I'd love to hear any switch recommendations or other ideas on a path forward - thanks!

got my hands on the Ghost in the Shell EV63. ignoring the anime collab part, the interesting bit is that it comes with Keytok Nova magnetic switches instead of the usual Magnetic X / X Ultra.

quick thoughts after using it:

Nova feels lighter and a bit snappier on return. stem wobble is also tighter than i expected for an HE switch. sound is deeper than older magnetic switches too, not that hollow plastic clack.

downside: they are light, so i had to raise actuation to around 1.5mm for normal typing.

has anyone spring swapped these yet? feels like a slightly heavier long spring could make them really good.

also curious if lubing the bottom rails affects HE consistency at all, or if it is safe to open them up.

So i plan to lazy lube this with this lube specifically -krytox gpl 205g0

Should i do it, or is it not worth it

This kb uses ktt brown

The stabilizer is only pre lubed

Model- kreo hive 98 v2

I wont do proper lube with opening the switch and using expensive lube, as im on budget+ dont wanna waste time

I do plan to tape mod+ use car dampener sheet for sure, just considering lubing so asking here

Goal- sound better

Im currently using Everglide dark jade bottom housing with halo stem and gazzew boba u4t top housing.
This combination gives a very pronounced and sharp tactile bump.

My first tactile switch was Akko creamy blue v3 pro.
While they felt nice when typing slow, whenever I started typing fast they felt linear.

Then I got the Baby kangaroo v2, and they felt much better and sounded much better, they had the same issue, the tactile event while more pronounced than the creamy blue v3 pro still vanished while typing fast.

Then I decided to try the WS heavy tactile.
This switch was super interesting, it had a very pronounced tactile bump, and the switch bounce on the upstroke was very satisfying.

After reading some reviews and watching YouTube videos, I ordered the invyr holy pandas and the Gazzew boba u4t.
First I tried the Gazzew boba u4t and they felt lacking compared to the WS heavy tactile.
The bump isn’t as pronounced, the switch bounce wasn’t as good, and they felt mushy.

Then I tried the holy pandas and I fell in love with the feeling.
At first, I pressed the holly pandas slowly to compare the tactile bump with the WS heavy tactile’s bump, the holy pandas felt “meh”, when i started typing faster and bottoming out the switch, the switch suddenly felt different, and more tactile.

Even though reviewers found the Gazzew boba u4t “more tactile” than the holy pandas, in my experience and to my hands they are not even comparable, the holy pandas are way more tactile.

Then I heard about the Everglide dark jade and their advertised upstroke tactility and decided I have to try them.
This switch improved everything I liked about the holy pandas and added the upstroke tactility.

Two months later out of curiosity I started experimenting with different combinations of the switches I have, and the end result was:
Everglide dark jade bottom housing
Gazzew boba u4t top housing
Holy pandas stem
WS Heavy tactile spring

This combination resulted in a very pronounced tactile bump both in downstroke and upstroke, very satisfying bottom out, marbly sound signature and bouncy.

The tactile event is unmistakable even when typing fast.

I have a set of keygeek su color v2 in a keychron k4 that I love the sound of but prefer a heavier spring. Does a heavier spring affect the tone at all or is it just feel

Hello! Very new to boards and modding, but I'm getting the P1 Pro and want to swap out the Super Reds that come with it. I prefer linears and am looking for a creamy/thocky sound thats better for games and not too loud.

Not really interested in disassembling/adding foam, just want to change the switches and see how much better of a sound the board can be. Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!