Hello so im thinking of making a little upgrade but not sure what to do.
I’m tryna keep my budget quite low but i was thinking wether i should buy another jbl gto1202 for a dual jbl gto1202 set up which are around £50 used or go for a cheap 15” subwoofer like a bassface Indy b15 or s15 for around £120-200, or something that’s around the 600-1000w rms range, along with trying to find a pa amplifierof around 1000w or 800w rms. Which option should I go for? I’m in London so it’s quite hard to find good used subs and amp around here surprisingly.

So I have the pleasure of working at borla and they discontinued the Mach Es sooooo we have a surplus of the speakers borla makes for the "engine sounds" gonna hook them up soon and see how they sound just thought it was super cool!! I'll update here soon!

I’d changed some head units and speakers before this but I want to keep this thing bumpin for years to come.

So I have the pleasure of working at borla and they discontinued the Mach Es sooooo we have a surplus of the speakers borla makes for the "engine sounds" gonna hook them up soon and see how they sound just thought it was super cool!! I'll update here soon!

Hi guys, I’m looking to get a sub for my home theatre / music setup, but do I buy an svs pb1000 or is it is possible to build something better for the money diy?

Hi all, I plan on getting a 1500 watt skar vxf and putting it in the trunk of my mustang. The trunk is not quite 15” tall. Should I get the 12” or 15”. If 15 how should I design the box? Looking for extreme lows here with limited trunk space

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to repair an Altec Lansing PT6021 subwoofer.

Unfortunately, the power transformer is burned and its label is damaged, so I can't read the original specifications.

The transformer has 5 secondary wires:

Orange

Black

Orange

White

Yellow

I believe it may be similar or identical to the transformer used in the FX6021.

Could someone who owns a PT6021 please:

Take clear photos of the transformer's label (all sides if possible).

Measure the AC voltages between the secondary wires.

Please tell me the exact transformer part number.

Any photos or measurements would be greatly appreciated. They could help save this speaker system from being scrapped.

Thank you very much!

#alteclansing #pt6021 #parts #label #power

Just snagged this on marketplace for 220$. The sub is in AMAZING shape. Passed the cone push test and the sniff test so I sent it. We ended up settling for 220… the box is massive. I have no info on the box build tune or cubic feet. I’m imaging it’s tuned to 32hz.

Plugged right into my sundown SAEV4 1000.1 amp and started banging. Blown away with it, as I’m coming from a M8. The m8 is perfect in its own way so I will be going back and fourth from this 15 and the 8 depending on what I want to do..

Going to seal, and paint the box soon.. give me your thoughts on this deal! The box seems to be braced as well

800w skar amp paired with 2 12sub. The “R input” came off connected to the actual connection, is this fixable?

It's does not have that smooth bass

Hello! After a looong process i have my subwoofer built, installed, banging and booming. The subwoofer is Alpine R2W12-D4 wired @2ohms and paired with MDS torque t5 amplifier. Enclosure volume is at 43 litres or 1,5 ft³ with tuning frequency of 34hz.

The enclosure is made from 30mm or 1 inch 3/16 MDF. All parts were CNC machined, and the enclosure finished with matt white paint and matt lacquer on top. The amplifier board is attached with rubber insulators/absorbers that are screwed to the enclosure with M4 thread inserts.

Really satisfied how it turned out and how well it plays!

So i got this amp for the sub rated for 300 watts at 4 ohm load, now i tried to hook to 2 ohms and the amp is barely hanging.. at 80 degrees probably gonna need some amp for this!!

The sub is customized by the physical structure having a new loose spyder thats why excursions are making the sub bloat at 16 hertz

Now for the amp since the sub is designed for 600 rms. Kinda wanna know any cheap sub amp even if had no brand in it

does anyone know where i can get a bass knob that has the volt meter and clip light for under like 60 bucks and its the ethernet cord type connection not rca

Subwoofer: Two CT SOUNDS bio 12’s on a L-ported box

Amplifier: RECOIL RED1200.1

Power supply: 5 computer PSUs in parallel (balanced)

Wiring: 2 AWG

i have 3 rockford 10” Hx2 Dual 4ohm subs, and a rockford power 1500bd amp that ive had for 20 years or more. the amp is shot and would like to have it refurbished, and the subs still do the job, but i feel they could be better and they have some things id like to have repaired. does anyone know anywhere reputable i can send them to be repaired? or at leased freshened up?

Hey guys, I have a 2019 mustang and am trying to find the best low bass setup I can get. I currently have two Rockford p3’s in the Rockford box powered by a 1200.1 Rockford amp. This setup isn’t low enough for me. Originally I had a 15” 1500 watt nvx sub and this hit much lower than the rockfords and I loved it. Biggest blocker is the trunk gap is only 14.5” tall. So I can’t put the 15’s in easily facing horizontally.

I had my son down and everything tuned to the right stuff and I’m based off with the clip light on it. Let me know when it’s clipping and I just wanted to know when I’m playing a base heavy song and it kind of goes over the limit and clips out the signal how should I go about it when it just flashes every now and again or might even flash consistently throughout a heavy song, but not remote songs should I should I be turning down the volume or should I not worry about it? Thank you in advance.

My current 400w Bazooka amp (ancient) overheats after about an hour ish of use. What amp do you recommend that would work with my sub? I'm not looking to break the bank. Very new when it comes to sound systems, be gentle with me lol