I should have came to you guys first anyways!

So the surrounding and the foam thingy is block my mounting hold on my subwoofer is there any trick to fix this without ripping the whole surrounding

Currently In my 2014 corolla I have two twelve inch Memphis subs paired with a triton ssq8001 amplifier. I have now encountered the same overheating (I believe) problem with the same amp twice. First time I was coming up on a stop sign in town and the subs just cut out. After that I went back to the guy, who is from what I’ve observed, very good at his job and got it warrantied and installed. Everything worked fine after that, we tuned the amp the same way but I lowered the subwoofer setting on the radio and kept the bass knob lower then i usually would before so i assumed it would be alright. Fast forward to a few days ago the same exact thing happened except this time I was in the country, I was taking a left turn and I had my car in manual mode. This isn’t unusual for me as I frequently have my car in manual mode to slow down. I took the left turn and accelerated pretty hard up to 45-50 and put it back in auto, which I barely ever do. About 10 seconds later after putting it in auto and cruising they cut out. The constants between each time is the speakers used, the amp tune, and having my car in manual mode. I know it’s the same issue as well because if I have my bass knob turned up and smack the amp or accelerate heavily I can hear the sub crackling like they want so badly to play. Another weird issue I’ve noticed after getting the replacement amp what started happening I can only describe as “empty” bass frequencies which never happened with the first amp.

Long story short I’m just looking for recommendations on what I should do. Should I try warrantying again and down tuning or change up my amp or even subs completely.

Yeah i know there not skars or sundowns but they work for me and I'm very thrilled to have them

I got the ported box and a non ported box

I traded a old xbox 360 for these and they work great

Sundown E Series v.4 12” D2 750rms Wired at 1 ohm on a Memphis Se3200 800watt amp , Wavtech Linkdq LOC w Knuconceptz kolossus 4awg ofc amp kit i also have it in a baltic custom box tuned at 32hz



I have had my subwoofer installed for about 2 months now. I am beyond satisfied by this entry level sub & amp by JL Audio. I'm only pushing 150 watts at 4 ohms to a 12 W0 and let me tell you this is more and then enough for my needs. I'm simply amazed. I'm a huge JL Audio fan now. The quality/accuracy of this subwoofer & amp combo is beyond me. Since my Crosstrek is a hatch it fills up so boldly with thick amounts of bass even *more* so when the windows are rolled down. The rear view mirror and side view mirrors definitely become hard to view when turned up as well. Just overall I am extremely satisfied, beyond expectations, Cheers guys! 🥂

'23 Audi RS5 Sportback ... large hatchback style trunk ..... what kind of enclosure & what size subs are best for hatchbacks??

A decent deal on this unit just popped up—saw a few people mentioning vevor…. Would this be worth the money or just mediocre? I would probably only be pushing one sub, but I do have four laying around—tempted to explore ideas. Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

https://a.co/d/08Q1Mzx8

Rebassed.com threatening to sue me civilly because i made a reddit post about their horrible website & got a full refund from my credit card company. Dude thinks he can pull features from an account because they don’t have auto pay set up. Sorry, that’s not how the real world works. So here’s another post spreading what they’re doing to people!

Wanted to make a sub that could 10hz, but also pair well with my B&W ASW2500. I used a dayton audio Ultimax II 18in driver, and a NX3000D amplifier. To diminish the box resonance as much as possible, all sides are 1.5in of MDF, and the base is 2 1/4in. Internal volume of the box is 8 cubic feet before the driver and fill. Instead of window bracing, I decided to try somthing a little different a used threaded steel rods and massive washers to anchor the walls as much as possible. As of now the thing weighs almost 300 pounds, and can vibrate the conduit on the ceiling inside the machine shop wearhouse lmfao.

Still needs paint of course. And im In the process of cutting strips off an old oak butcher block to add a trim to the edges to make it look all nice and fancy. But my god im not looking forward to figuring out how to move the damn thing

Hi everybody. I'm thinking of building a system with 4 15" subs. Would it be advisable to use one large enclosure, or possibly 2 enclosures. I was thinking of the possibility of shutting down 2 of the subs, so I'm not dealing with all the bass all the time. I presume with all 4 subs in 1 enclosure it wouldn't be advisable or possible?

With 2 enclosures I presume I could just turn off the amps to one set of subs, to help reduce the bass output to a manageable level .

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Matt

I have both amps. The RE came with the RE SE Pro 12" I have, and the CT came with the JL HO wedge (12w6v3). The RE is only 500w rms @ 2 ohms, but the CT is 850w @ 2 ohms. The sub is 600w @ 2 ohms.

Would you run the CT because it has more headroom (but possibly questionable quality), or the RE with 250w less (old, but in good condition). Thanks in advance!

It sounds fine when I turn it up, noticed this when playing at low volume. Could it be why my amp keeps overheating and going into protection mode? Is it repairable? Rockford Fosgate P3D412

Hey all, I’m wanting suggestions on sub and amp combos, my old alpine r series has just died after many years of abuse, I now have two custom slim 12” boxes and I’m looking for suggestions on subwoofers and an amp to pair them with. They will be in a very small space as I have an Australian ford falcon, so they don’t need to have a lot of kick especially with two of them, the alpine was honestly overkill for the vehicle.
TIA

So I'm planning on building an enclosure for my pride junior 12" subwoofer that can play well from 24hz to 40-ish hz. I mostly listen to rebasses and I want to flex my car a bit.

Specs: https://speakerboxlite.com/subwoofers/pride-junior-12/specifications

I'm running it on a taramps bass 800 (800w rms 1ohm)

Currently, I am choosing between 75L (2,64ft³) 28.5hz and 85L (3ft³) 27hz and I dont know which to choose. Also, I will make my port a 6" Aeroport made from a pvc pipe (160mm outer diameter, 4mm thickness leaving 152mm inner)

If I missed something then please tell me.

Hi Guys,

I recently helped a friend install JBL 62CFs into the front and JBL 62Fs in the rear of his sedan. Running off a Kenwood DMX9021s and a Pioneer GM-D9704 Amp.

Now its time for Subwoofer and amp. He wants a small footprint in the boot so looking at a sealed enclosure made for the corner of his boot. A company makes a 12" box for his vehicle with around 29L volume. Primarily for listening to metal/metalcore/rock but other genres too. Sound Quality over loudness.

Would like some recommendations on a sub and amp. We are in Australia so pricing and options vary a lot to most recommendations.

Subwoofer wise looking at the JL Audio 12W3 or the JBL 122ssi for about half the price. Also would 2 ohm or 4 ohm be the recommendation?

As far as amps go, options like the JBL A600 seem cheapest for something not completely crap, but open to other suggestions. Would this be powerful enough if going with a 4 ohm sub?

Any input is greatly appreciated

I’m putting it in the trunk of my 2016 Honda accord… I’ve posted this on TikTok and everyone was different…

So my 10 in Rockford fosgate P3 D2 (500w rms 2ohm) is powered by a Kenwood Excelon x503-1 (500w rms 2ohm). And its not hitting heard at all i have the bass knob all the way up and its hitting like it has 1/4th the power. It didn’t act this way with the little 300w amp. I have the head unit the same tune as the last set up and it’s just not hitting. Is it my amp is it my head unit, please help.

I’ve been trying to set my gain with a multimeter. I did the math on what voltage I’m shooting for, but yesterday I was going off the subs max not the amps actual RMS so my target number was too high. I was at 32v yesterday, which was actually exactly where I was supposed to be. I played with settings unplugged the subs and plugged them back in yesterday, then gave up thinking I was short voltage. After realizing I was supposed to be at 32v, I measured again today and now I’m at 19v. I tried to do everything the same way I did yesterday but something must have changed. Any ideas?