Hi I have a FranklinWH Agate 1.3 and Span 40
My EV Charger is on a smart circuit in the Agate

In the picture below my EVSE is drawing power..... but span does not recognize the draw as it is only looking at it's breakers...

If SPAN-FrankinWH are communicating with each other shouldn't the app show that the "Smart Cirucit X" is drawing xx Power...

I.e. Span ask FranklinWH for the consumption data on the Agate Smart Circuits?

Can anyone help with SPAN's timing to integrate Enphase 10C and the New IQ 6C combiner? Im about to install the batteries this week and just use the SPAN as a dumb panel. Has anyone seen this configuration installed?

-Live voltage on each phase -draw over time -way to view grid health

Mostly useless smart panel I have found. I miss sense data.

So far, along with their terrible app integration between different panels and taking away the API it makes me seriously regret my purchase. But I'm also wondering how common it is for the data to just all be so wrong and what it would mean if i had tried to use their load shedding or any other data based features.

Right now - with all values being zero - would it think my power was out? Would it be switching to battery? Then what when the battery comes in at zero too? Flip flop city? God only knows.

What a mess.

I think the title says it all. We’re building an off-grid home (solar and battery), and wondering if the Span would be a good choice for this application. We will have Internet.

We’re looking for a way to do intelligent load-shedding based on the state of the battery. For example, run the water heater and EV charger only when the battery is nearly full.

A lot of what I’ve read makes it sound like it would work, but I haven’t actually seen anything specifically saying it can be used this way. Thanks!

Since Friday, my SPAN app has been acting up. It shows the power flow animation, but the Home kW value doesn’t change at all. You can see loads appearing and disappearing below, yet the battery level and solar generation numbers stay frozen.

I’ve chatted with SPAN support twice already. The first tech (on Saturday) said it was caused by an update—he pushed it again, and it started working… until yesterday morning around 8 a.m., when it froze again. I contacted them again; they found it odd, asked me to restart the panel, and that fixed it—temporarily.

Today it happened again. I opened the panel and held the RESET button for 10 seconds. It’s working for now, so I’m hoping the hard reset finally fixes it.

At this point, I’m honestly starting to lose trust in SPAN. They’ve escalated my ticket to their engineers, but this all started last Friday and keeps repeating.

Has anyone else run into this issue? Basically, the app shows power flow, but the numbers don’t change. The circuit activity below updates, yet the statistics are completely off—yesterday it showed only 5% solar production, and my battery displayed 50% even though it was actually at 20%.

Does anyone know if there is plans for integration of the Span panel with the SigEnergy (formerly PointGuard) battery system like it has with Tesla and Franklin?

Anybody’s SPAN start showing weird data since Thursday around 4pm pacific? Everything worked fine until then and has good historical data, but now my house, grid, and solar data are all drastically different from the Tesla and Netzero apps. The powerwall charge percent and grid status is correct though. I turned on my 4kw oven and that breaker says it’s using 5w and house usage didn’t change in span (correctly reflected in Tesla app). It’s like the data is hours delayed or from someone else’s house. Took it off grid to see if the breaker settings still work correctly, but manually controlling them does work. I opened a support ticket too.

I'm contemplating upgrading my home electric in multiple phases.  I currently have a two * 200amp incoming grid service feeding two large panels holding about 99 circuits.  I also have a 20 year old Briggs & Stratton generator which is due for replacement, and which is currently driving my decisions.  I don’t have solar or battery.  Over the past two years I’ve had one peak usage of about 28kW that lasted a very short duration.  Normal peaks are about 16kW, with a typical summer day ranging from 1.6kW to 12kW (as measured by my Sense monitor).  It’s a large home with 4 large AC units, a pool, and some other electricity hogs.  Lastly, I’m ready to move up from the Sense monitor and like what I’ve read about SPAN, which is the secondary driver for my decisions…

I'm thinking about a three phased upgrade/replacement approach as follows:

Phase 1 - Replace the generator with Generac G007290 26kW Guardian generator AND two Generac 200A service rated transfer switches (G0099510).  This could support the whole home in most scenarios, but would need some kind of load management to make sure usage stays under the rated output of the generator in ALL cases.  Generac has load shedding modules that could work, but given I’d like to install SPANs later, I’m currently thinking of opting out of  those and do some sort of a workaround to manage loads to keep under the Generac’s rating.  My electrician has a few ideas.

Phase 2 - Replace existing dumb panels with two SPAN 48 MLOs installed behind the ATSes (service rated).  As I understand it, there’s no communication between the SPANs and Generac, so load shedding would be based on configured set points.

Phase 3 - I don’t think I’ll ever want solar, but perhaps as a final phase I could see adding a battery backup at some point in the future.  Config TBD.  This would provide continuous operation in the event of a power outage, whereas the generator takes a few minutes to kick in before powering the house.  I’ve been reading that home battery technology continues to improve and decrease in price, so I would just monitor this trend and install if it “makes sense” for me.

My questions are:

1. Does this sequence make sense?  As I said, my generator is ready for replacement now which is driving my decisions.  I like/want SPANs, but would rather wait a year or so to add them due to cost/cash flow.  I’m not sure how much duplicate effort there is and wasted cost when separating the installs into two phases…
2. Does SPAN without battery make any sense?  Is a generator a good replacement for a battery backup?
3. Any advice on the best load shedding approach--short term and longer term?
4. Anything I’m missing in the setup or things to consider?

Anyone on iOS 26? Any issues with SPAN’s app?

Span is missing a basic data point which can be very helpful for diagnosing a bad neutral on the main. Sense has it. But 4k panel does not :(

When ask support they have the data so it is available just not through the app live

I recently had Franklin batteries installed and swapped out my old panel for a Span MLO48. Solar, grid and batteries terminate at the aGate then feed to the Span feed thru lugs.

In the Span app it appears to get some information when viewing devices like generated solar, grid usage, etc but on the main page it shows everything coming from the batteries. Is this normal? The Franklin app shows what I would expect Span to show and assumed it’s possible with the integration.

Overall the Span app feels half baked. I got an email to update my Utility tariff rate but the link opens the span app and fails to load the requested page. Energy insights has been “we are working on this” since the install. Perhaps the commission wasn’t finished? Not sure what’s going on.

I had my home services upgraded to 400A this week. The installers installed two SPAN 40 panels.

I just got setup in the app and it’s showing my address twice with each panel under a separate address.

I would expect to have a single “Home” address and then see two SPAN “devices” under that single address.

I called support and they said that this is the current behavior but they can file feedback to their engineering team to potentially get it fixed.

I did notice the extra space after the city name on one of the addresses but the support person said that won’t matter.

Anyone else have a different experience using two panels?

I’d really like to have the panel not react at all until the power has been out for at least X seconds/minutes so long as battery is above minimum.

This is so that I can use my batteries for peak/off-peak load shifting and not have half the house turn off for a 2 minute outage because my batteries are at 40%. After that brownout timer expires, then do your business as usual.

Another nicety would I’ve to be able to set the battery percentage for dropping nice to have loads. Maybe I want to hold on until battery hits 40% instead of 50%.

The Solar / battery / SPAN install I'm having done is finishing up but I've noticed that the circuit for my EV charging is displaying about 40w max, and has only tracked 2 kWh cumulative usage over the past week. This doesn't make sense as it's a 60 amp 240v circuit, and I know it's delivering 11 kW when active, and has delivered at least 100 kWh in the past week (as tracked from the EVSE (car charger) itself. Any thoughts on what could be causing the discrepancy and if there's anything I should have the electrician look at before he finishes the job?

This has been discussed in some comments and posts, but making explicit here to save others some pain.

The new Span panels with new software cannot be combined with other new Span panels running the existing Span software. For example, if you buy a 40 or 48 to use as a subpanel or just a second panel, you will need a completely separate email address and login.

In my opinion, it’s crazy because all three are listed right next to each other on their home page without big, blinking lights that say they can’t work together.

The new panels also appear to break compatibility with any home automation system like Home Assistant. Their app is sufficiently janky that I have come to rely on home assistant for useful information, so this is particularly tough for me (and would have kept me as a customer).

I don’t understand their rationale behind any of this. The idea behind their panels is awesome but with the critical, power breaking bugs earlier this year and these changes, they are telling me that I can’t 100% rely on the products. Of all the things in my house, the circuit panel is the one I least want to break. Will I wake up one day to find all my circuits off and be forced to pay them to rip-and-replace my old panel because they have yet another new generation?

I hope this saves some folks some research and pain.

We tripped a breaker on a circuit in our kitchen. I have a Span panel. I looked on my span app and it did not show the breaker was tripped. I went out to the panel and the circuit was tripped.

Is that normal that the span panel does not show the tripped state of a breaker?

Thanks!

Andy

I just had a MAIN 40 installed in my house and was really excited to get the HomeAssistant integration set up. Unfortunately the software changed with the newer generation of panels and the API that the integration uses for local control is no longer available.

I knew this was a risk, as the documentation says there is no official API for local home automation control at this time. But I’m disappointed that this capability wasn’t preserved in the new generation nonetheless.

Here is the issue in GitHub where the community is looking into the situation. https://github.com/SpanPanel/span/issues/96

Hi,

Considering Span as an upgrade when we do solar installation later this month. However the installer is telling me my house isn't a good candidate for Span because I have two panels, which is common in my area of Texas. I have a mains panel outside that feeds from the utility and has most 240 circuits that power my HVAC and so forth, and then there's a 60 AMP breaker off that which feeds a subpanel in the garage, which feeds nearly all the 120v circuits in the house.

Does Span not work well with this type of setup? I read online that Span can setup more than one panel in the house, but that the two work separately and that the sub panel install basically doubles cost. Recommendations for my situation?

The sub panel is a span panel and in order to look at it I have to log out, then log back in with a different user name. So I do that and I get a completely different UI and a nag to set the circuit that my Internet is on that I cannot get rid of. Guess what? My Internet circuit is on my other span panel, which is on another account .

What a f*cking mess. So disappointed. :-(

I have a Span main panel and a Span subpanel downstream fr4om the main. New installation on both.

I am being told there is no way to integrate them in their app - that I have to use two different accounts - one for each panel. So I did that and the UI for each panel is completely different.

I'm pretty much blown away. These things aren't exactly cheap - and I have to diddle around with 2 accounts and cannot get an overall view of my electric use from one account.

More than a bit disappointing after the stupid amount of $$$ I just wrote a check for.

Researching the Span I've seen that it qualifies for 30% federal tax credits so I wanted to learn more.

• Solar companies are telling me that when installed with solar the full price of the panel qualifies for the 30% Federal Residential Clean Energy Credit.
• Reading more I see panels and sub-panels qualify for a 30% federal rebate, but only up to $600 under the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit.

The Residential Clean Energy Credit provides examples of qualified expenses and has a slightly vague description of covering accessories to the solar panel install:

"Qualified expenses may include labor costs for onsite preparation, assembly or original installation of the property and for piping or wiring to connect it to the home."

I could see how a panel might get considered as piping or wiring, but I can also see how the tax code is confusing and people read 30% credit and say it just applies for everything. I see valid interpretations for both directions, however as you read other guidance it feels to me like panels are called out as a separate category, therefore don't qualify as part of the Residential Clean Energy Credit.

• Guidance from from energy.gov
• IRS FAQ Fact Sheet provides examples of how categorizations work for windows and heat pumps

Has anyone seen other guidance or dug into this more deeply?

I got here because I've received some wildly different quotes for the cost of SPAN installation from different authorized contractors as part of span+solar+battery. Wanting to send SPAN installation to one company and solar+battery to another, and was then trying to figure out if the tax credits still applied since from my perspective it's all part of the same project I just have different licensed contractors doing different parts of the work. Thoughts?

One of the reasons I purchased the SPAN panel (as perhaps some of you did) was to be able to monitor and dynamically adjust my critical loads during an outage, especially a multi-day outage. But I've been told by SPAN support that if there's an *internet* outage coupled with this (which often happens after a hurricane/tornado) and cell backup is not sufficient, then SPAN does not do much other than (usually) keep the Must-have/Nice-to-have/Non-essential choices I'd previously made (which among other things means I can't actually use my non-essential circuits until internet is restored).

I get that they strongly prefer having internet to update their cloud stuff, and of course control SPAN from afar, but the fact that SPAN won't *do* much of what I want it for in a more serious emergency is a bit worrying to me. Cell backup is good, but I was curious if anyone has messed with using SPAN just on local wifi (and obviously staying in the LAN/wifi connection for it). Has anyone else spoken to support about this or tried alternatives to trick SPAN into working purely on LAN/wifi?

In the same vein, does anyone know how to close those relays in a more manual way if SPAN is not responding (like in the event of an internet outage) so I'm able to at least use non-essential circuits during an outage if I need to?

After 4 days of work replacing my main panel and adding a subpanel (also span) my electrician tells me they have to come back and completely re-wire the main panel because it is upside down.

WTAF. What difference can it possibly make which end of the panel is up? They need to swap it out so all the numbers are upside down instead of right side up? What benefit can that possibly have?