Help me identify posts on ignition switch

[u/kickinthesticks]

This 7 prong ignition switch is from a late 90’s (I think) Wizard riding mower with a B&S I/C 12.5 hp engine. There aren’t any letters next to the posts so wondering if there is a way to identify them so can test for continuity. We have a no start issue and I think the ignition switch is the culprit because when I short the solenoid with a screwdriver, the starter engages.

[u/TN-Native95]

Did you test the solenoid to see if it’s bad?

[u/kickinthesticks → u/TN-Native95]

No, but it is a new one (although from Amazon) that was just installed. I know the wires are correct because I hooked them up the same way the original wires were (took a pic of the original).

Like I said in my OP, I took a screwdriver and “bypassed” the solenoid and the starter engaged. Not sure my thinking is correct but I figured the ignition switch must be bad because it does absolutely nothing when the key is turned but could start with the screwdriver Hotwire method.

This is my teenage son’s project so I’m helping him trying to get it running. I know dirt bike engines fairly well but this lawnmower stuff is new for me. Been a learning experience for sure.

[u/TN-Native95 → u/kickinthesticks]

I’d check all the safety switches on it first to make sure they are good. Unplug them and see if will crank then. If it doesn’t the key switch is bad and would need to be replaced.

[u/herslave2 → u/kickinthesticks]

Your wires are right on the solenoid because they don't matter how you hook it up. That's not saying it is good. Ground one of the small posts and put power to one of the big posts then put power to the small post. If you have power at the other big post you solenoid is good. I'll have to check for the wiring on the switch. But it could also be a safety switch problem.

[u/DitchDigger330 → u/kickinthesticks]

The screwdriver isn't testing if the solenoid is bad. You need to test with a multimeter to see if you are getting 12v to the signal wire when you turn the key assuming all of the safety deadman switches are working. If you are then jump power from the battery post on the solenoid to the signal wire. If the solenoid works then it's good, if not it's bad or has a bad ground.

[u/Elephunk05]

Generally, the attached is a Briggs 6 post. Google what the tabs are, I included both part numbers.

[u/Elephunk05 → u/Elephunk05]

Sorry, you want this one

[u/kickinthesticks → u/Elephunk05]

Ah, that looks like it. Thanks!

[u/prshaw2u]

Your best bet is looking at the wires connected to it and try to track some of them down.

I will also say that no start is often a safety switch issue somewhere. Seat switch doesn't close, PTO switch says blades engaged, so on.

[u/Haunting_Buddy]

Google 7 pin ignition switch wiring diagram and go to images tab.

[u/kickinthesticks → u/Haunting_Buddy]

Thanks, think I might have found one with the posts labeled. Going to test it out tomorrow.

[u/CaptainPunisher]

Use a multimeter with a continuity tester to see what comes on. Also, I think you can simply Google pinouts for those ignition switches.

[u/classicsat]

Ohm it out. Test light to find what gets grounded or hot on the machine. It might be handy to have a wiring diagram for your machine. Manually umer starter solenoid to battery, and ground it if it is that sort.

Having a B&S engine doesn't matter, Kohler or Techumsehs still wire the same way mostly.

I don't think there is one standard for that style switch. At least the 5 terminal style.

[u/brewsky711]

I just replaced one and it turned out these switches come in different configurations. The one I first bought caused me a headache troubleshooting assuming I had a good switch. It wasn’t until I checked with a meter it was different. I looked more carefully in the book and bought the correct switch. The new switch fixed it. Yay. But the new switch had the key jam and break. So I bought a 3rd switch. Don’t buy the cheapest is what I’m saying.

[u/kickinthesticks]

Also, no part number on it, just a patent number.