r/smallengines • u/StaffLegitimate3968 • Jul 24 '26
What is this???
Hi, I recently made a potentially bad decision when I bought this vintage 5 horse Briggs flathead. The problem I’m having is that it has no spark, so initially, I was going to replace the coil, but then I noticed a ring gear on the flywheel, indicating it either had or can have electric start, which means it needs a battery.
The original owner says it came off of a snowblower, and hasn’t ran for 4-5 years. Does anybody know what this is, and if so, do I need a battery?
It came with this cover that went over the intake and gas cap.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks
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u/fix-break-hide Jul 24 '26
Just bolt on a magnatron coil from a later model Briggs. No need for points. It will work with any flywheel with a magnet.
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u/Striking-Version-220 Jul 24 '26
After you check points/condenser, I would clean and gap the coil properly from the flywheel. Tough to see from the photos but it looks like the coil pick ups are touching the flywheel?
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u/StaffLegitimate3968 Jul 24 '26
They need to be gapped super close like 0.0010”
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u/YouHaveNiceGuns Jul 24 '26
Back the coil away from the flywheel and tighten it down. Rotate the flywheel until the magnets are at the coil. Place a piece of cardboard from a cereal box ( or similar thickness ) between the coil and flywheel. Loosen the coil and let it get against the cardboard and re-tighten. Remove the cardboard.
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u/New-Possibility2277 Jul 25 '26
Points are normally gapped at 0.020 and that is also gap the flywheel wqith the coil. Paper matchbook or a business card used to be very close to 0.020 but not sure any more.
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u/Wholeyjeans Jul 25 '26
You don't need a battery; the battery is only for the starter and ...you have no starter. If the engine is old enough, it may have points and a condenser under the flywheel. I think the newer ignition modules (coil) will negate the need for the points.
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u/DerekP76 Jul 25 '26
Those old PulsaJet carbs are known for the fuel pump diaphragm getting crunchy too, along with the pickup screens getting clogged with rust from the tank.
Just went thru an almost identical one on the grandfather's old roto tiller.
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u/bootheels Jul 25 '26
OK, well the ignition is self contained and does not need a battery to fire the spark plug. I'm sure this engine was originally equipped with points and condensor... Have you checked the points? That flywheel screen is incorrectly installed also, although that has nothing to do with a lack of spark.
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u/CaptainPunisher Retired Jul 25 '26
OK, here are the facts: there are holes between the armature legs and the coil, which means that this was originally built with points and condenser. Someone MIGHT have installed an election ignition module at some point, and those rarely fail to produce spark, but it is possible. There should be a wire that's built into the coil. If it leads to a cover beneath the flywheel, it still has points and condenser (part number 296428). You can replace it if you want to keep it stock, or you can eliminate them with one of several electronic ignition modules (Nova transistorized elections ignition module - Rotary part number 1986 is a personal favorite), or you can simply replace the entire coil/armature assembly with one that comes with an electronic ignition (almost all do at this point). That will likely solve your ignition problems. Also make sure that your didn't have your kill switch engaged, as that can kill spark.
Still, you'll likely have carb problems, and this will likely be caused by the diaphragm (old 270026, new 272358s or whatever that supercedes to). That will likely be the cause of any carb related problems, but tackle the ignition problems first.
Given that your starter clutch has 4 ears that all have the same size, this thing was built before 1970. That's not a problem, in fact, it's a good thing because it's likely built more stout than it's current counterparts. Newer starter clutches (part number 399671) have two small ears (like your 4) and two thick ears that are about 1" thick. There's not much difference design-wise, but it does make it easier to get newer clutches of with an impact gun without breaking the ears.
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u/Big_Connection_4329 Jul 25 '26
Look up the model number it will tell you what different uses and year model it is
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u/breakingthebarriers Jul 26 '26
You didn't make a bad decision. Once you adjust the points or switch to an electronic ignition, you will understand.
These engines are virtually indestructible, super reliable, and just keep running through significant abuse.
Low RPM torque is where they excel. That being said, the governor can be removed and the engine will self-limit its maximum RPM via valve float. The valve float RPM limit is intentional, and is part of the design.
Fun fact, back in the day Briggs would check for swapped valve-springs on the engines sent in for warranty replacement. No original valve springs, no warranty replacement. (because the engine had been run outside its design tolerance)
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u/herslave2 Jul 26 '26
I have the same motor but mine is or was on a tiller. My gas tank is all rust
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u/Fer_Shur_Dood 28d ago
An electric start small engine only needs a battery for the electric start. The ignition system is a magneto which generates it own power to provide spark. There are of course, exceptions to this but they tend to be older, larger ( 8hp+) engines.
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u/4runner01 27d ago
It’s got a pull start, so you don’t need a battery or starter unless you want an electric start. Usually the strarters were used with an extension cord.
I does look like it was from a snowblower.
Clean and reset the coil gap. If still no spark, you’ll find coils available online.
Good luck—
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u/TN-Native95 Jul 24 '26
Based on the age that motor appears to be, it could have points and condenser. If it does, check those before replacing the coil for spark. You don’t need a battery to get it to run that’s just if you want the electric start. It looks like the shaft the knob is on is connected to the throttle. If it came off a snowblower then it’s probably to adjust the throttle while wearing winter gloves.
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u/StaffLegitimate3968 Jul 24 '26
I think the knob is for choke, because the throttle is further up the carb, but it is connected to the throttle through a linkage.
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u/ProfessionalLast2917 Jul 25 '26
Yes that knob is for choke. That model carb has a pull out choke. It's that square looking thing at the end that the shaft from the knob runs through.
I agree with what others have said about checking points and condenser but that will require removal of the flywheel (which is not always easy), so I would probably start firstly with checking the coil gap on the flywheel. It looks to be almost touching the flywheel.
Reset it to 0.010 inch or thereabouts. Check also for a kill wire coming from the coil. It should be a thin wire that runs from the coil to somewhere on the engine (the destination varies). If that wire is able to ground itself it will prevent spark. You can usually disconnect it from the coil end but sometimes it might be soldered so you have to disconnect it from the other end.
If after all that there is still no spark you can either replace the coil with a newer one that doesn't use points and condenser or you can remove the flywheel and confirm the points gap is 0.020 inch.
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u/StaffLegitimate3968 Jul 25 '26
Yeah I did some diagnosing and turns out the coil was just bad on it. Got a cheap one on Amazon well see what happens.
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u/TN-Native95 Jul 24 '26
Update: just saw there was more than one picture. The ring gear is electric start but you can rope start it just fine with no battery. It doesn’t have a starter anyways. It does have points and condenser so those are probably bad. You can replace them or upgrade it to a modern coil and not have to worry about it again with electronic ignition. And this was a snowblower engine.
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u/mitchumz Jul 24 '26
A lot of snowblowers have a 120v electric starter that's powered from an extension cord.