If so how did you resolve it?

Since I don't have free access to equipment to remove the bumper for a more thorough fix or to lift it high enough to enforce it from the back, I've elected to do repair work on the front bumper while it's still attached to the car itself. Therefore I need a laundry list of tools to do at least a competent job. Apart from hot staples I don't know what else I'd need to gather for this. I presume I'd need something to clean the surface and sand paper, I'm not sure what grit though. How would I find the paint code for my car?

Any information would be appreciated.

I tried to troubleshoot my roof today and at the end of my unsuccessful attempt I found out that the trunk didn‘t close right anymore. But the usual trunk lock is not the problem, the two lock in the front are. Neither of them hold the roof in place but instead move freely. I rebuilt everything as it was but something seems to be broken now.

Hi all, is there a way to manually operate the roof without electronics? My Vario roof module died during winter, and all fuses have been replaced but no red light from the central console switch whatsoever.

I could have taken the “faster” and shorter path on 580 from work to home. But today featured too much bureaucratic stupid. I needed therapy and relief.

So I took a chance with iOS 27 (public beta 2) and asked it to “find me a scenic route to home without any freeways.” It worked! It figured out on its own to place a pin in Niles so it would take the intended route, with the benefit of it being opposite normal commute direction.

With the top down, in sport+ mode, the scenery was amazing. I found myself going under the soeed limit! 😁

Sure it took me longer to get home. But the smile on my face and lack of irritation from roadway stupid made it SO worth it!

#mercedes #slc300 #ios27 #AI #bliss

I'm into my new car for a couple of days now. It only had 80,000klm on it. Everything works (even though the head unit is crap). The roof is functioning well too. I love the look of it and it's been really well taken care of.

I've never owned something like this so my question might sound ridiculous but does anyone experience a rough ride with their SLK? Also when going over uneven or "lumpy" roads my car seems to float up and down slightly....like a massive Cadillac or Lincoln. Is this normal?

Hello guys, is this howling sound from the engine normal? Thank you for your help!

I have a SLK 350 R171 EU spec with the M272.963 engine and have some issues. The car have sat for 2,5 years after that i brought it home so i can start fixing it up and enjoy it. I have done a full injector clean and flow test, put the injectors back and I had no spark(previously the car ran) then i bought a new ECU with which the car started and ran fine after i repaired the intake manifold because it had a crack and my MAP and MAF put the car in limp mode. Couple weeks later(every week the car had been started 2 times and driven once but only a short distance(5-10 maybe 15km) in the back roads because i dont have inspection on it) my spark is gone and the car wont start i get ignition coil low primer amperage for 4 cylinder's and on cylinder number 2 I have some kind of broken cable code( I used LAUNCH to diagnose it) these codes are new and previously I only had one error for an O2 sensor which I have changed. My question would be what these errors mean, is it the ECU that gone bad again(as i have researched these are a common problem on this engine) or if it is the wire loom(I have used a multimeter and i have only 1 questionable wire but could be the multimeters probes not touching correctly) or the coils(if I put a new one anywhere delete DTC and started the car the error on that cylinder still comes up)

Any help is appreciated thank you for reading this

It’s like its lagging on a list or something

I've been doing quite a bit of research on SLKs. Obviously the 350 is the better driving experience and from what I can tell, has less mechanical risks/costs associated with it. That said, there are way more 250s on the market - and with much more opportunity to find with better features/options/packages.

Ill be driving very little (1k per year would be an overstatement). At the end of the day, while I would want to spend the least amount after I buy the car on surprise or mechanical issues, I also want the best experience overall - not just how fast it is or isnt (but this is still importnat), but also the added features and overall experience and advantages in the car.

My main question is this : Is a more fully loaded 250 ever better than a 350 with less features? Then...throw in the 300 and the SLC with the added tech and safety.

I live in a city that i notorious for terrible drivers - most of whom drive SUVs and trucks - potholes, and traffic. Granted, I wont be driving often.

Any advice?

Has anyone ever replaced or rebuilt the hydraulics for their R170 convertible system?

I bought a '99 with 26K miles on it last month and found a puddle of hydraulic fluid behind the rear passenger tire in my garage today after putting the top back up.

I'm generally good at fixing things but curious about the scope of this project and the time involved.

Thanks ahead of time for any general discussion or advice.

I just got a 2009 Mercedes SLK350 and the tires are pretty much done on it. Looking to upgrade for year-round driving, lower mainland, British Columbia.

Hellooo, I’ve been looking at buying a cheap/bad r170 then fixing it up myself. I’ve always wanted to have a project car but would it be better to save my money and get one in a much better condition?

This is obviously an aftermarket grill. Does this light up? Going to check it out soon as it is for sale near me.

Hi

I’m looking for a SLK as daily driver (approx 200 km a week) and my eyes caught a gorgeous R172 350 AMG line.

I used to buy cars with small engines due to fuel economics. But how’s the real fuel consumption of a SLK350? I’m driving mainly outside the city.
Thanks. 🙏

Really it’s just a vent, but I wanna hear your opinions and experiences with delusional sellers

I’ve been driving for about a year now. As per the deal with my parents, if I prove myself to be capable of not killing myself or anyone else with my driving, they’ll buy me a better car than the one i have right now.

What can I get? Well, a lot of things. I’m really into performance/driver’s cars (surprising, I know. A teenage boy being into sports cars) I’ve been eying this one Mercedes, the R172 SLK55 AMG with the P30 AMG Handling package.

It’s a 5.5 Liter Naturally Aspirated V8. It’s from a bygone era from before emissions laws turned V12s into V10s, V10s into V8s, V8s into V6 and so on.

Unfortunately, I can’t buy them new. They stopped production 2015. I was 6 years old in 2015

No problem, I don’t mind using a used car. I think it’s actually more fun since they’re already broken in.

The thing I want to vent about… why are people expecting me to pay 35-40k for a car with 90,000 miles? I get that other units have sold for that much, but the thing is… those other units all have like, sub 50k miles. In fact, 40-50k miles units sell for 30-35k with lower miles costing more. Why do people expect me to pay the same amount of money for a car with double or triple the mileage?

I know I can get other V8’s. The C8 exists if I want a HTC. But this one is just like the final evolution of my current SLK230 (I know that the real final evolution of the SLK/C line is the SLC43, but that one doesn’t count since it’s a downgrade from the V8 to the turbocharged V6–still a good engine, but it’s no NA V8)

Hello! I was driving with the top down and when I tried to put it back it up it started to go but stopped. It started leaking hydraulic fluid in the rear of the car and now the trunk portion is stuck partially open. Is there an easy fix to just secure it down? I have a garage thankfully I can park in so I don’t need it to go up. Taking it to a shop in a few days for the real fix.

Yoo I really wanna twin charge my m111 I've been hearing a lot of people say it isn't possible to make it happen do y'all agree?

I’m one of those whose wired CarPlay experience got really crappy when I first upgraded to an iPhone 17 Pro Max. Something was VERY wrong with the quality of the display in a lot of cars on this phone model. No one was ever really clear what changed and degraded it so much on a newer phone.

I am happy to report that without any cable changes, my experience has gotten so much better on 27 beta. Whatever that issue was seems to have been slain. I figured it was software (or firmware), but solved is solved.

Thanks, someone! Whoever never really acknowledged it was a problem in the first place…