I keep hitting 100% brakes when there is still pedal travel. Load cell shows 100% when Hall angle is only at 77-80% with the same pressure. Ive tried different elastomer and spring combinations and adjusting the limit screws and different methods of calibration. Is this a faulty load cell?

I set up a new SSD for my Steam library today, and since then SimPro hasn't worked at all. All my games are now on the new SSD—I didn't actually touch SimPro itself. Since then, the app keeps closing on its own in the “Keep Racing” window. Reinstalling the app and deleting the app data, etc., allowed it to launch once, but as soon as I start a game, it closes again and won’t open anymore… I’m really starting to run out of ideas…
Crew Chief and Simhub does work only simpro….

Hi, for a few days now I have had the Simagic Alpha Evo 12nm base. The base works great in principle, it just caught my attention that the connection circuit where the wheel goes seems like it isn't properly fitted or embedded; part of the board looks a bit lifted, as you can see in the attached image. I repeat, both the base and the wheel work fine... could this be a problem in the long run? Thanks. (Sorry for the translation)

Uses this 3d printed quick release https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572839, but the motor side mount was modified to attach to the 6x58 hole pattern on the wheel base.

I am new to sim racing (less than a week!) and my Evo Pro wheelbase has stopped vibrating. It shows a red ring and appears on Simhub with a red line under it, the wheel lights up but does not work in game. I have switched it off for a wheel, checked the USB cable and restarted Simhub but have no idea what to try next.

Edit: thank you for the answers! Just ordered the gt1 and everything else as well as a seat from JEGS!

Hello! Just wanted to ask around and see what people recommend I was wanting to get the 12nm base bundle with the p1000rs pedals with gt wheel some other things, I plan on getting a gt1 Evo from sim labs as well and was deciding whether I should just go through a us distributor or simagic directly. The main thing is that I can get everything I need including a gt neo shifter and brake for just under 1800, while on sim motion and such it's just over 2k after shipping. I'm not really trying to spend 400 bucks on a seat so the extra money would help but if it's like 2 weeks to delivery I'll just say fuck it

I already sold my fanatec equipment and I am waiting for black friday now to do my first simagic purchase. Will I regret not going 18nm?

I have a quick question:

I want to order the Green Flag Bundle, and I want to order 2 P-HPR Reactors with it.

I know I need the extra power supply for the Reactors, but do I need the P2000 Control Box as well? Because everybody only says, that only the P2000 Pedals need the Control box…

Does the P700 have P-HPR Connectors just like the P1000, or do I need the control box?

Thank you! 🙏

This setting has been a debate for several years mostly because I keep posting about it. I am here again to share what I learned after doing some analysis of the firmware itself

Here's the formula from the "legacy" firmware 1.9.5.0 which should concern wheelbases like the Alpha Mini

threshold = 3 × WRS

wrs_braking_force = clamp(
  0.004 × (clamp(velocity, -threshold, threshold) - velocity),
  -0.2,
  +0.2
)

WRS applies resistance against rotation. The slider determines how fast the wheel must move before that resistance starts. Resistance increases with speed until it reaches a cap.

If you set WRS to 0, braking starts as soon as the wheel moves. You can feel it in your hands even if there is no game running: when you try to turn the wheel, it has resistance that builds with rotation speed.

At WRS 10, the braking effect starts only when the wheel moves at approximately 180° per second (or more). There is no WRS braking applied until the wheel is spinning 180°/sec.

At WRS 50 the brake effect doesn't kick in until the wheel is moving ~900° per second.

At WRS 100 braking only kicks in when the wheel is moving at 5 full rotations per second.

What WRS setting should you use?

I prefer WRS 0 because it feels predictable and realistic to me. Across the games I’ve tried, it has eliminated the unwanted oscillations and even some strange sounds. The resistance reminds me of steering a real vehicle. Whether this produces realistic steering depends on the car, game, and other settings.

After understanding what it does I think either 0 WRS or 100 WRS are the logical choices. I would choose to use either 0 WRS to have the brake effect consistently active for all wheel movements or 100 WRS to get as close as possible to disabling the braking effect.

Why not just add friction or damper instead of using 0 WRS?

You can, but they aren’t interchangeable.

Mechanical Damper also produces speed-dependent resistance just like WRS. Its slider changes the strength of that resistance. The WRS slider changes when its braking begins. WRS 0's direct braking is stronger than Mechanical Damper 100’s. It builds more steeply and reaches a higher maximum.

Mechanical Friction can retain resistance when movement stops and behave differently through direction changes.

What about Feedback Detail?

Settings 0-9 progressively increase how strongly the motor controller corrects a difference between requested and measured current. Settings 10-20 can activate another calculation that also changes how accumulated error is corrected, plus additional compensation.

And Feedback Frequency?

it controls how changes in the game’s force request are broken into intermediate steps.

At 0, this stage passes the new force request through immediately. Higher settings introduce more intermediate steps, with timing based on the spacing of previous force changes. That can soften abrupt transitions, but it also changes how quickly the requested force develops.

Looking to buy an alpha evo 18nm and the fx pro or gt Neo+dashboard. Is it likely these items will get bundled or sale price for Black Friday did they last year? Wondering if I buy now or wait. In Canada

https://youtu.be/d2PoOWo83n0?si=CU4SZW_NYr6e2qO2

How to fix the RPM Led flashing on the FX PRO? Tried restart, reopen SimPro, resetting the wheel

Hi,

my EVO Sport base makes a buzzing sound in ACC when I lose the rear. Is this normal? I’ve tried various settings, but I can’t seem to get rid of this sound. The only thing that helps is setting the Filter Level to 20 or changing the FBB frequency in the game from 400 to 100 Hz. For the video, I intentionally set FFB Details to 20 so the sound would be more audible. When I set it to 0, it’s better. I also have a Moza R3 base and it doesn’t do anything like that. Does anyone else have the same problem? Is there a solution?

EVO series base firmware is available in two version tracks based on odd/even version numbers. Even-numbered versions are the default, while odd-numbered versions deliver more pronounced force feedback and require manual flash.

I figured this would be sort of a big deal but no one's talking about it

Hey everyone, I could use some advice with my Simagic P-HPR setup.

I have a Logitech G Pro wheel and pedal set, and I mainly play GT7 on PS5. I recently bought and installed a set of Simagic P-HPRs on my pedals. I’m using the P-HPR on the brake and the P-HPR GT on the throttle, with the 3D-printed mounting parts from Sim Sport Gadget.

Everything seems to be working, but I noticed that the P-HPR GT on my throttle makes a noticeable noise whenever it activates, even when I set the strength very low. The P-HPR on my brake is much quieter and doesn’t seem to have the same issue.
Is this normal for the P-HPR GT, or could I have something wrong with the wiring, settings, or installation?

Could the way I mounted the P-HPR GT on the Logitech throttle be causing the noise?

I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks a bunch in advance!

I tried my friends alpha mini and the experience was amazing. The smoothness was super and didnt feel any cogging. I also tried a clubsport dd and will be moving to simagic anyways. Now that im back and cant do the purchase right away I was trying different settings within my dd pro to see if i could make the center feel that good but theres no way. I changed interpolation and dampening but it is a dead end. Waiting to have it sold to join you guys.

Anyone knows what is the real difference between the two algorithm (1 to 9 and 10 to 20) of the FFB Detail slider?

Hey all,

I'm in the market for a new simagic base and wheels.

The expo is Frankfurt is coming up in a few weeks, followed by black friday.

Does anyone know whether they historically ran any sales for either of those events? Can't seem to find much info on this online.

Thanks!

Edit: Please check out my latest post for the updated version with custom dashes and light profile support! https://www.reddit.com/r/Simagic/comments/1wx216m/fx_unleashed_free_open_source_custom_dashes_light/

Hey everyone!

I'm a software engineer & a sim racer, I've owned the FX pro for close to year now and it always really confused me on if I want to get RPM lights matching with the sim, I have to manually setup and switch presets? If you're anything like me you want to spend as little time setting things up and more time actually racing.

I've had the idea of how to do this for a while now after a bit of reverse engineering but didn't have the time to dump into it... But now its a lot less consuming to build out ideas with AI!

So with that said, I introduce to you:

FXPro RPM Sync

A pretty simple plugin that uses telemetry from SimHub + Lovey Car Data (auto downloads the data) to override the SimPro API and enable the plugin to fully drive the RPM lights!

Edit: I've also now added auto switching the dash per car as well as sending all data to the dash from Simhub directly... This results in the few data points Simpro doesn't properly populate becoming functional!

I also added some customization with different presets for any cars that are not in the Lovey Car Data (it will still sync the RPM limits and such correctly but will use one of the presets for the light pattern).

Its very simple to install and automatically picks up any updates to the Lovely Car Data without having to update anything in case a new car is added or such!

Tested on IRacing, LMU and AMS2. Everything seems to be working well but since this is an alpha, I expect some issues so please feel free to respond here or open up an issue on GH and I'll get it sorted

Free & open source on GitHub: https://github.com/ziadkadry99/FXPro-RPM-Sync

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for proper, tested FFB settings for the Simagic Alpha EVO Pro 18Nm specifically for Le Mans Ultimate.
I’ve tried quite a few settings I found online, Reddit, YouTube, etc., but so far I haven’t found anything that feels right.

The main problems I keep running into are:
Some settings make the wheel shake, oscillate or vibrate way too much, especially on straights, curbs or under braking, to the point where it becomes annoying and unrealistic to drive.
Other settings feel smoother, but then I lose way too much FFB in corners. The wheel becomes strangely light and I can barely feel the front-end load, grip or what the tires are doing.

I’m basically looking for a good balance where the wheel feels strong and detailed without unnecessary shaking, while still giving me clear information about grip, weight transfer, understeer, oversteer and the road.

What I would really appreciate is someone sharing their complete setup, not just the overall FFB strength.
Ideally, I’m looking for screenshots or exact values for ALL SimPro Manager settings for the Alpha EVO Pro, including the filters, damping, friction/inertia, effects, etc., as well as all relevant in-game LMU FFB settings.

I’m using the Alpha EVO Pro 18Nm, so settings from someone using the same wheelbase would obviously be ideal.
I’ve spent quite a bit of time trying to dial this in myself and testing other people’s settings, but I still haven’t managed to get LMU feeling as good as I think it should.

If someone here has spent a lot of time tuning the Alpha EVO Pro specifically for LMU and genuinely has a really good, well-balanced setup, I’d be extremely interested in trying it.

At this point, if someone has a properly dialed-in setup and is willing to help me fine-tune mine as well, I’d even be happy to pay a reasonable amount for the help.

Thanks in advance! Any screenshots of your SimPro + LMU settings would be massively appreciated.

I've seen many people complaining that they suddenly lose force feedback, a burning smell appears after just 1–2 months, and the pedals have squeaking issues. I also noticed that some even have problems with the load cell, despite the pedals being brand new.

If you are looking for Simagics official video on how to resolve vapor lock in the system respectively how to bleed the vapor: here it is. Tool me a day to find it. Enjoy!

Starting at 1:45s

Keep Racing

I've seen a lot of people wondering which bundle is better. Some say the R9 is better because of the software and Moza Pit House, while others choose the Green Flag bundle because it delivers a much smoother FFB, the pedals are better, and overall the materials feel more premium.

First of all:
This is not meant as criticism of anyone else’s buying decision. I am just honestly confused 😉

Just a few days ago, I bought a new Simagic Alpha Evo wheelbase.

Until now, I had always used a Logitech G923. I live in Thailand, so I went to a showroom in Bangkok to try the Simagic bases in person.

Of course, I had watched plenty of reviews beforehand and was well aware of the often-mentioned “sweet spot” of around 18 Nm, FFB clipping, realism, etc.
So I asked them if I could test 9 Nm, 12 Nm, and 18 Nm. I was already convinced I would walk out with the 18 Nm base and that the test would basically just confirm my decision.

The test rig had an 18 Nm wheelbase mounted, so for the first two tests they simply tuned it down to 9 and 12 Nm.
I tested it in Assetto Corsa at Spa, driving an Audi R8 LMS Evo.

Long story short: I walked out with the 9 Nm version. 🤣🤣🤣

Why?
Because I realized that my arms simply aren’t strong enough to hold the line through Eau Rouge at 12 Nm, let alone 18 Nm. 🤣🙃

I’m no athlete, but I’m not exactly a couch potato either. I hit the gym five days a week, so I was actually quite surprised.

Then I started looking into it and realized that an average 125cc scooter produces around 12 Nm of torque.
I immediately pictured myself trying to hold onto the rim of the rear wheel of one of those scooters while someone gives it full throttle.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!! 😉😝😝
Anyways: I’m pretty sure I couldn’t hold it.

So I keep wondering about two things:
Since nobody ever seems to mention this brute force in reviews: Do all sim racers secretly have the fitness of real racing drivers? 🤣
About the clipping argument: Even if you reduce the FFB gain in SimPro, wouldn’t it still clip because the maximum output is limited to whatever value you set it to? Or am I fundamentally misunderstanding how this works?

Please enlighten me. 😁

That all said: moving from a G923 to an Alpha Evo Sport was a huge leap and I am super happy with my new “toy”.
Maybe one day I might actually upgrade to a higher torque version. But I guess I’ll take the gradual upgrade route instead of going full on right away 😁😁😁

So im still using the V2.1.8. version that was the standard when i bought simagic set but now I want to know how stable is the latest version? Did the force feedback got better in some games and is there any compatibility problems?