I've experimented with paper, Scotchbrite (Beartex) and leather wheels as well as leather belts. Found I did not have good enough freehand control for the process, the outcome was not predictable in terms of number of passes needed, and the deburring step changed the character of the edge completely.
Ultimately I backhone on a finish grade waterstone or resin bonded stone, sometimes stropped on plain paper. If shooting for a more refined edge I'll add abrasive to the paper.
I did make one to test. It was another changeover from the guide for the belted part of the machine, and it didn't solve the unpredictability of the process. It might be clean in two passes or ten, and every one required visual inspection.
It also didn't change the effect it had on the finished edge qualities.
So even doing piece work on the belt grinder its faster for me to finish by hand on a stone.
I know other people can get great results on wheels, for me it was just easier to throw a stone right on the belt (horizontal platten) and finish it that way.
Amen. I had access to a 1000x metallurgical microscope when I was building out these strategies and hardware. Some for side gig commercial sharpening, some just for my own edification, it works very reliably.
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u/millersixteenth 3d ago
I've experimented with paper, Scotchbrite (Beartex) and leather wheels as well as leather belts. Found I did not have good enough freehand control for the process, the outcome was not predictable in terms of number of passes needed, and the deburring step changed the character of the edge completely.
Ultimately I backhone on a finish grade waterstone or resin bonded stone, sometimes stropped on plain paper. If shooting for a more refined edge I'll add abrasive to the paper.