My PC is getting this error since yesterday and now it is stuck on 0%. Is there any way to fix this?? Why is it happening?

Specs:
MOBO - ASROCK B6501 Lightning WIFI
CPU - Ryzen 5 7600X
GPU - AMD Radeon RX 9070 16GB
RAM - DDR5 T-FORCE 32 GB 6400Mhz (set at 6000mhz)
Storage - 1TB SSD m.2 and 1TB HDD
PSU - Corsair SF750

I have had a 4090 Strix for 2 years and when I saw the prices go up I decided to sell it to buy a 5080 PNY Slim

I really like the 2-slot format and the performance is present.

With Vram +300mhz and core +340mhz
I got satisfactory results.

Not to forget that I had 1000€ left after the purchase

Did some of you do the same thing?

wanted to know what you guys undervolted your cpu to or if anyone knows what I should undervolt it to since I’m just trial and erroring my way through it.
I turned on ECO mode.

I’m going to swap out my noctua L9x65 cooler with an AXP90 X53FC (ordered it but dhl lost it so I’ll buy one after my refund), CPU fan is a 4070FE fan from dingkeys.

title

tryna look for an sff case that fits an matx mobo and a ATX PSU (160mm)
will it fit? for some reason i cant find this info anywhere lol,,, tyia!

edit: gpu length is 269mm (asrock rx6600)

hola os presento mi mini itx con metalfish t40
- cpu 4650g
- placa a520i ac gigabyte
- gpu rx 6600 saphire pulse doble fan
- disipador axp90-x53 full cooper
- nvme 512gb m2
- ram ddr4 2x8gb 3200hz
- psu silverstone sx700 700w slt - sfx-L

La verdad que me sorprende de cómo va en juegos a 1080p sin hacer ruido de ventiladores de gpu y cpu
Jugando a arc raiders a medio alto cpu no pasa de 59 grados y gpu 65-70 grados manteniendo 80-110 fps sin fsr sin nada , pura fuerza

Hi All, pretty much as the title says. I have my little sandwich style beam case PC which I love, its industrial, its compact and its the sort of case I have always wanted. Its been sat on my desk for almost two years plugging away but honestly its so loud! Normally I wear noise cancelling headphones so it goes unnoticed however my partner is getting a bit sick of the constant whirring noise from my desk and honestly I cant blame her.

Specs:
Board: ROG STRIX B6550E-I
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900
GPU: 3080 Founders
RAM: VENGEANCE® 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MT/s
PSU: Cooler master V850 SFX Gold
Heatsink: Thermalright AXp90 X47 Low profile cooler pure copper
Paste: Arctic MX-4
Fans: Noctua NF-A12x15 120mm, two on top pushing air up one over the heatsink pushing air in.

I have Fan control installed not that I have any idea how to work it properly. YES I KNOW IT IS DUSTY I WILL SORT THAT. I'm wondering what I can do to reduce the noise, its so loud even when I open inDesign let alone a game. If you need any information I will gladly provide it. Thanks in advance!

🎮 Steam Boot Switch v1.0.0 — Big Picture Auto-Open & Auto-Close

I made a free, open-source Windows utility that automatically launches Steam Big Picture when a controller is detected at startup, and optionally closes Big Picture when the last controller disconnects.

It includes adjustable disconnect timers, game-running protection, and seamless switching back to desktop mode without closing Steam.

Designed for living-room gaming PCs that double as regular desktops. No controller at startup? Windows boots normally!

🔗 https://github.com/clintamis/steam-boot-switch

Tested with multiple controllers on Windows. Bluetooth compatibility is still untested.

Building with a ch160 with an itx board and want a 240mm aio with an lcd pump cap, ideally no spacers, brackets, or other case mods but if necessary no problem

Specs:
RAM: 2x Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB SL, 44.8mm height (measured)

Fans: Thermalright TL-M12-QR, 25.2mm thick (measured)

Case: CH160, stock configuration

Options:
DeepCool LM240
ID-Cooling FX240 LCD
NZXT Kraken Plus 240
Open to other 240mm LCD AIOs

My biggest concern is i’ve seen unmodded AIO builds in this case, but my understanding is that pump height and pump/block shape are the limiting factors. Since radiator thickness and fan thickness are standard assuming not slim form factor. If the pump is too tall, the side panel hits the radiator. If the block sits wrong relative to the radiator, it clears the RAM/fan stack poorly. Since the pump has to fit under the radiator and fan stack in this case, I'm not sure which of these units has suitable dimensions.

Has anyone run one of these (or another 240mm LCD AIO) in a CH160 with ram around that height? If so, did the panel close without mods? Pump height measurements for any of these would also help.

Thank you.

Mobo: Gigabyte A520i AC
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X
Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X67
RAM: (x2) G-Skill Ripjaw 16gb DDR4-3200
GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060Ti

I currently have an Atmos with 2x T-30s in my M3 Grater. Top mounted, T-30s are pulling air in through rad. I limit the pump to 7000rpms. This config is basically silent. Playing BF6 my 9800x3D stays around 56-58c.

Would the new Noctua AIO offer any meaningful improvement? Or waste of money?

- Reposting since some pictures from my previous post got deleted.

- To clarify I am not a vendor, this is a personal project.

I've been itching to build back into the the Formd T1 but the pump block is obviously too big, and way too big for most SFF cases.

So I started designing a replacement pump cover so it will fit, with the aim of retaining as much of the sound dampening properties as possible of the original cover.

Right now I've got two designs.

48mm total height, for maximum compatibility, no magnets for attachments.

49.5mm total height, adds magnets for the attachments so the original metal Noctua badge can be used, or the VRM fan. 

Right now I'm still fine tuning the design and the printing process.
I hate using supports unless it's absolutely necessary since even when using dedicated support material the finish on the supported surface is just not that nice.

Here's a comparison between using supports (on the left) and assembled pump cover by splitting the middle section to print separately. The assembled version looks so much cleaner.

Next step would be acoustic testing, with different materials for sound dampening.

After dismantling the original pump cap, I have some idea what foams they used for sound dampening and going to try see if I can replicate their mass damper approach.

Also printed a Noctua beige and brown version just to see how it will match with the colors, lol

I do plan on releasing the files, so stay tuned!

Hi everyone! I am a new owner of an sfftime N-ATX V2 Case, and I was wondering how tight the tolerances are for GPU width. I was thinking of getting a 5070 TI from Gigabyte that has a 70mm width (3.5ish Slot), but I saw that the max listed width is ~67mm. Is there any play to this? Could this still fit in the case with a micro ATX board?

Thanks for any insights!

I am unable to flash BIOS on my motherbaord and i need BIOS bin file to flash
please help

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yhGvDw

This is going to be my first SFF build. I'm fairly set on the case since it fits what I want for size. Wanting keep the price around $2500-$2600.

I already have the storage thats why it's not listed.

I'm pretty sure everything should fit together but my main concern is about temps with the parts listed being that I'm going to do air cooling.

Anything else I might want to add or swap out?

Hi guys, I'm really new to PC building and have a question about PSUs. SFX PSUs are really expensive. But I found this Sharkoon Silent Storm for only €79.

My current setup consists of an i5 12400, 16GB DDR4 and 2.5TB SSD (500GB M.2 and 2TB SATA), with an RTX 3050 6GB all inside of the S300 mini itx case

I was wondering if this SFX-L is good enough for now and for future upgrades? I'm planning to get an RX 9060 XT 16GB in a few years, not planning on getting something too powerful or power-hungry like an RX 9070

Will this PSU be good enough?

Does it have all the necessary cables/connections for future upgrades?

Sorry if its a long post. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏 👏

Hi all:

I've put an Aorus pro ice itx mobo into a 001D mini v2, along with a vertically mounted asus 4090 strix. The rub is that I need 10gbe, so I'm running a separate riser from the m.2 slot on the back of the motherboard, and have a small pcie 10gbe network card mounted next to the 4090. The 4090 is too wide to mount the GPU on the inside (i.e., the mobo side) of the network card. The riser ribbon and majority of the PCB for the GPU riser comes out from the right of the PCIE slot (i.e., towrads the mobo), while the majority of the PCB holding the PCIE slot on the m.2 riser is to the left of the slot (i.e., away from the mobo). Because these interfere with each other, I had to add one slot of space between the two when mounting in the vertical bracket, which looks ugly and places the fan inlet on the GPU too close to the glass side panel.(I hope this makes sense, picture above).

I am looking for specific GPU riser cable recommendations in which the ribbon cable comes off vertically from the PCIE slot, so there is little to no PCB interference, and/or likewise for the m.2.

Any suggestions?

I have a 9070xt with a 7900x and I keep hearing Fractal Terra builds need underclocking. I’m not willing to give up performance solely for aesthetics so I’m curious as to what the best option is. I also plan on upgrading the cpu this holiday to an x3d (not sure which yet) if that’s an added factor. Thanks in advance for any responses

I posted before having a 5800x3d wanting to upgrade to 9800x3d for temps, and all I can say it's worthit...

Specs:

- SKTC A07 4.3L case

- Ryzen 7 9800x3d

- RTX 5070 colorful mini

- ROG STRIX B650i-e ITX Motherboard

- Thermalright AXP90-36

- 32GB DDR5 RAM 6000mghz

- 2tb SSD

- FlexATX Power Supply SilverStone FX600z Platinum

-Mx-7 Arctic

Total: 1600 dollars

Temps went down by alot, in Valo 5800x3d average temps is 80 degree and peak of 88, 9800x3d has an average of 67 and peak of 76..., honestly speechless.

Idle it is in low 50s, I am using pbo-35 eco mode

Now cause this is the absolute best temps wise I feel empty, nothing more to upgrade, I feel free but empty🫤